I went tubeless a year ago. The biggest benefit is that if you do get a slow leak the sealant will allow you to finish your ride instead of being stuck at the side of the road replacing a tube. My only complaint is that they tend not to hold pressure as long as tubes.
Must agree with the conclusion. I've been running tubeless for some time now. I've just gone back to tubes. Tubes are just far more reliable on the road. MTB may be different, but tubeless can be a real PIA to fix on the roadside, and don't let anyone tell you that the sealant will seal every hole. It won't, and neither will the plethora of plugs on the market.
Never even tried to bother with tubeless after witnessing a fellow rider totally ruining his expensive jersey and glasses by being spattered with sealant spraying from a hole in the tyre it was supposed to fix. Meanwhile I wore down three sets of regular tyres, approx. 11.000 km, without a single flat. So where's the improvement?
I've had 3 occasions now where the sealant has failed to seal a small hole in the tyre and I've had to deal with the mess of putting a tube in at the side of the road (25mm Hutchinson Tyres on Hunt rims first with Muc-Off sealant then with Stans). I'm also going back to tubes now. Going to give latex tubes a try. I do love the ride feel of tubeless.
Adrian Wells: When it comes to narrow tires (25mm and lower) I suggest using Stan's Race Sealant as that will almost instantly seal the puncture while not losing much air. The trouble with that sealant, though, is that it can not be refreshed via the valve hole where you can inject sealant otherwise so you're left with having to open the tire every few weeks. All other sealants will allow too much air to be lost before (or rather, if) they work, something that is harder to do due to tire distortion from too much air loss. With the current hassles related to sealant use in narrow tires, it may not be worth it unless you're a professional racer where time loss from a flat may result in losing an important race.
I have been riding road tubeless for 4 years and mtb tubeless for 20 years. Punctures can be fixed by the sealant without you ever noticing, bigger cuts may need a stans Dart or plug. Neither of these involved removing the tyre at the roadside in the wet or cold. Tubeless tyres can run at very low pressure so rough roads are smoothed out. Yes it's different to tubes but means you have a comfy ride at speed and the schwalbe pro one is a very grippy tyre as well. In 4 years I have never needed an inner tube but I still carry one for my mates who often run out on a long ride with multiple punctures. Enjoy the ride
tires with low pressure are called flat tires. tubeless doesn't work at proper road pressures. it's hilarious that some people think road tires and mountain bike tires are at all alike. but whatcha gonna do.
Same here. Went tubeless a year ago and never needed a tube even though I’ve been through countless “punctures” and a handful of Stans Dart plugs. The lower pressure and hookless rims really make for a nice ride especially on descents. My tubed roadie friends aren’t any faster at their higher pressures hahaha
@@lvirag8401 pressure is set up according to sram guide to rim width,tyre diameter,rider and bike weight. In my case that's 60 psi on the front and 65 on the back. It does not feel squirmy until the pressure drops below 40. On our local roads the surface is poor so high pressure skinny tyres just puncture on the flints.
Yes - absolutely agree with each of your points raised. I have been riding with tubes since the 60s. In the early 90s i started using MrTuffy tyre liners. I did try tubeless for a short period, but like others, found it messy and didn't always seal. Most of my rides are on bike paths, with lots of glass. Last year I did over 11,000k with only one occasion that glass punctured my Mr Tuffys.
Having to hassle with messy stuff like sealant in exchange for less flats? With regular tires I have a flat about every 5000 km, which at the time is once a year and that flat usually indicates that the tire is done. My last pinch flat occured when I pinched the tube with the tire lever while installing new tires. An actual improvement would be bicycle tires lasting as long as car tires (50,000 km+), in that regard tubeless offers absolutely no advantage over clinchers with tubes.
Though it's a bit unfair to comment on a 2-year old video, it should be noted that the Schwabe Pro One Tubeless tire you mounted has been highlighted many times as suffering from sidewall "fizzy" leaks. They're not alone on this of course... the same thing happened to me using an early version Continental tubeless tire. I'm now using the latest 27mm ENVE SES road tires and haven't witnessed the same problem, though I am careful to add 45mls of sealant and spend the time spinning the tire to make sure that both sidewalls are coated. Another difference is that I run tires at lower pressures that yours at 50 psi, more than enough to handle the terrible roads I ride but so much more comfortable that the old days when real men pumped to 100+ psi!
I may be wrong but velotique appears to have forgotten the taping part prior to the conversion to tubeless. Taping is a VERY important part of it all and often is the difference between tubeless tires working or not.
Thanks for the detailed info on tubeless, and agreed. I have yet to try them but they seem to be more hassle than it's worth when it comes to mounting on road wheels. However, tubeless might be better suited for CX, gravel or MTB. Thoughts?
I've been wrestling with this question on whether to go to tubeless or not. To me, this is similar to disc brakes on road bikes, nice to have, not really life changing, probably not worth the hassle and cost.
stans sealant is only good to 40psi(as is written on their bottle) so useless on a road bike I have good luck with higher pressures and a sealant called milkit. Orange sealant is also rated for a wide range of pressures but I have had no experience with it.
Thank you for your feedback. There is no mention of a pressure limit on the bottle of Stan's that I bought. On the larger bottles it does say "do not exceed 40 psi, for road tubeless use, consult max pressure of tire and rim and do not inflate above the lowest listed pressure."
I see quite a few things done wrong, which brings me to the conclusion that this video needs to be taken with a pinch of salt 1) when a range of 30-60ml is suggested, only someone wanting the experiment to fail would use the bare minimum 30ml. Additionally, someone can argue that with residue here and there, less than 30ml actually ended up in the wheel. Most people would not put the bare minimum quantity of sealant. 2) I've never seen a syringe like that in ANY tubeless/sealant kit EVER. The syringes usually have a much larger opening so I'm confident the syringe used in the video played a role in why the experiment failed. 3) the video shows a very poor attempt at shaking the wheel about so I'm not confident enough effort was put into making sure the sealant is distributed nice and even everywhere in the wheel. Therefore, tubeless setups may have their issues and may not be to everyone's liking; in this case, the main issue was the guy who did a very poor job using the wrong tools.
You raise some good points. 1) Yes I started with 30ml, however I did add did top it up to 60ml when I saw the pin holes not sealing. (not shown in video) 2) The size of the syringe is significantly larger than any particulates in the sealant. 3) The shaking of the sealant was only illustrated and only a portion is shown for clarity in the video. I do agree with you, "All Videos need to be taken with a pinch of salt". Tubeless setups may have their issues and may not be to everyone's liking, that's why I invite discussion on the subject. Thank you for contributing to the discussion.
The many punctures in my tubes sapped all the joy out of biking. Since going tubeless more than 4,000 km ago, I have not had any flats and love it.
I'm in total agreement with your final conclusion. I'll be tubed up until the industry comes up with a much better alternative.
Thanks for confirming.
I went tubeless a year ago. The biggest benefit is that if you do get a slow leak the sealant will allow you to finish your ride instead of being stuck at the side of the road replacing a tube. My only complaint is that they tend not to hold pressure as long as tubes.
Good Points.
Must agree with the conclusion. I've been running tubeless for some time now. I've just gone back to tubes. Tubes are just far more reliable on the road. MTB may be different, but tubeless can be a real PIA to fix on the roadside, and don't let anyone tell you that the sealant will seal every hole. It won't, and neither will the plethora of plugs on the market.
Wow. Great feedback. Much appreciated.
Never even tried to bother with tubeless after witnessing a fellow rider totally ruining his expensive jersey and glasses by being spattered with sealant spraying from a hole in the tyre it was supposed to fix. Meanwhile I wore down three sets of regular tyres, approx. 11.000 km, without a single flat. So where's the improvement?
Great video. I appreciate the honesty and not trying to dazzle me with the latest tech.
I appreciate that!
I've had 3 occasions now where the sealant has failed to seal a small hole in the tyre and I've had to deal with the mess of putting a tube in at the side of the road (25mm Hutchinson Tyres on Hunt rims first with Muc-Off sealant then with Stans). I'm also going back to tubes now. Going to give latex tubes a try. I do love the ride feel of tubeless.
Very interesting. We are not alone.
Adrian Wells: When it comes to narrow tires (25mm and lower) I suggest using Stan's Race Sealant as that will almost instantly seal the puncture while not losing much air. The trouble with that sealant, though, is that it can not be refreshed via the valve hole where you can inject sealant otherwise so you're left with having to open the tire every few weeks. All other sealants will allow too much air to be lost before (or rather, if) they work, something that is harder to do due to tire distortion from too much air loss.
With the current hassles related to sealant use in narrow tires, it may not be worth it unless you're a professional racer where time loss from a flat may result in losing an important race.
I put sealant inside road tyre tubes. Works really well and even seals micro holes.
That's great. Will you go Tubeless?
I have been riding road tubeless for 4 years and mtb tubeless for 20 years. Punctures can be fixed by the sealant without you ever noticing, bigger cuts may need a stans Dart or plug. Neither of these involved removing the tyre at the roadside in the wet or cold. Tubeless tyres can run at very low pressure so rough roads are smoothed out. Yes it's different to tubes but means you have a comfy ride at speed and the schwalbe pro one is a very grippy tyre as well. In 4 years I have never needed an inner tube but I still carry one for my mates who often run out on a long ride with multiple punctures. Enjoy the ride
Thanks. Great to hear that it works for you.
tires with low pressure are called flat tires. tubeless doesn't work at proper road pressures. it's hilarious that some people think road tires and mountain bike tires are at all alike. but whatcha gonna do.
Same here. Went tubeless a year ago and never needed a tube even though I’ve been through countless “punctures” and a handful of Stans Dart plugs. The lower pressure and hookless rims really make for a nice ride especially on descents. My tubed roadie friends aren’t any faster at their higher pressures hahaha
@@lvirag8401 pressure is set up according to sram guide to rim width,tyre diameter,rider and bike weight. In my case that's 60 psi on the front and 65 on the back. It does not feel squirmy until the pressure drops below 40. On our local roads the surface is poor so high pressure skinny tyres just puncture on the flints.
Yes - absolutely agree with each of your points raised.
I have been riding with tubes since the 60s. In the early 90s i started using MrTuffy tyre liners. I did try tubeless for a short period, but like others, found it messy and didn't always seal.
Most of my rides are on bike paths, with lots of glass. Last year I did over 11,000k with only one occasion that glass punctured my Mr Tuffys.
Thank you for sharing your experiences. I'm glad you found it informative.
Having to hassle with messy stuff like sealant in exchange for less flats? With regular tires I have a flat about every 5000 km, which at the time is once a year and that flat usually indicates that the tire is done. My last pinch flat occured when I pinched the tube with the tire lever while installing new tires. An actual improvement would be bicycle tires lasting as long as car tires (50,000 km+), in that regard tubeless offers absolutely no advantage over clinchers with tubes.
Agreed.
Though it's a bit unfair to comment on a 2-year old video, it should be noted that the Schwabe Pro One Tubeless tire you mounted has been highlighted many times as suffering from sidewall "fizzy" leaks. They're not alone on this of course... the same thing happened to me using an early version Continental tubeless tire. I'm now using the latest 27mm ENVE SES road tires and haven't witnessed the same problem, though I am careful to add 45mls of sealant and spend the time spinning the tire to make sure that both sidewalls are coated. Another difference is that I run tires at lower pressures that yours at 50 psi, more than enough to handle the terrible roads I ride but so much more comfortable that the old days when real men pumped to 100+ psi!
I may be wrong but velotique appears to have forgotten the taping part prior to the conversion to tubeless. Taping is a VERY important part of it all and often is the difference between tubeless tires working or not.
Thanks for the detailed info on tubeless, and agreed. I have yet to try them but they seem to be more hassle than it's worth when it comes to mounting on road wheels. However, tubeless might be better suited for CX, gravel or MTB. Thoughts?
The consensus appears to favor fat tire where tubeless works to support very low pressure while avoiding pinch innertubes.
I've been wrestling with this question on whether to go to tubeless or not. To me, this is similar to disc brakes on road bikes, nice to have, not really life changing, probably not worth the hassle and cost.
Yes, exactly. However I do like disk brakes...not life altering except in the mountains.
i could not agree with you more..
It will be interesting to see what the consensus is. Thanks for your feedback.
stans sealant is only good to 40psi(as is written on their bottle) so useless on a road bike I have good luck with higher pressures and a sealant called milkit. Orange sealant is also rated for a wide range of pressures but I have had no experience with it.
Thank you for your feedback. There is no mention of a pressure limit on the bottle of Stan's that I bought. On the larger bottles it does say "do not exceed 40 psi, for road tubeless use, consult max pressure of tire and rim and do not inflate above the lowest listed pressure."
I'll be staying with my tubes, I love the old saying, if it ain't broken , ya know !!!
That's also the green thing to do.
I see quite a few things done wrong, which brings me to the conclusion that this video needs to be taken with a pinch of salt
1) when a range of 30-60ml is suggested, only someone wanting the experiment to fail would use the bare minimum 30ml. Additionally, someone can argue that with residue here and there, less than 30ml actually ended up in the wheel. Most people would not put the bare minimum quantity of sealant.
2) I've never seen a syringe like that in ANY tubeless/sealant kit EVER. The syringes usually have a much larger opening so I'm confident the syringe used in the video played a role in why the experiment failed.
3) the video shows a very poor attempt at shaking the wheel about so I'm not confident enough effort was put into making sure the sealant is distributed nice and even everywhere in the wheel.
Therefore, tubeless setups may have their issues and may not be to everyone's liking; in this case, the main issue was the guy who did a very poor job using the wrong tools.
You raise some good points. 1) Yes I started with 30ml, however I did add did top it up to 60ml when I saw the pin holes not sealing. (not shown in video) 2) The size of the syringe is significantly larger than any particulates in the sealant. 3) The shaking of the sealant was only illustrated and only a portion is shown for clarity in the video.
I do agree with you, "All Videos need to be taken with a pinch of salt". Tubeless setups may have their issues and may not be to everyone's liking, that's why I invite discussion on the subject. Thank you for contributing to the discussion.
now switch to proper rim brakes and pump up your tires to a proper road pressure and go even faster! or ride tubulars like god intended.
Haha.