@@gyeag4343 Gorilla tape is the best rim tape on the market. It sticks really well, it has enough stretch to allow it to be pressed smoothly into the rim without wrinkling, and it's airtight.
@@gyeag4343 Don't see why not, it's made for the same purpose -- airtight strong adhesive. Except gorilla tape is made for even more extreme situations.
Yes, i would like to see how different sealants react and compare to each other. by the way guys your show is amazing. I've been repairing all my bikes. Thank you so much!
Awesome guy, I still read Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair, even though I haven't rode one for a long time, just started riding again this year, biking can get addicting and fun, if you want to learn what a bicycle is, learn and maintain it yourself, you start picking up essential tools, it's amazing Mr. Jones even explains the part in particular and numbers, he's pretty thorough very impressive..
Hey. Thanks for the video. It really gave me a good idea in which direction to go starting out tubeless. But there is no question. Tubeless is the way to go. So many struggles avoided after taking out the tubes. I found a good method for keeping pressure after your done inflating and the tyre is seated is to rotate and bounce the wheel off the ground several times. Maybe for about 5 minutes. Personally I have had some excellent results doing this. Love the channel. Good motivation for myself.
Hi. I'm not too sure if the rim will be compatible. I think that is what you're asking. But waht you can do is look for a picture on google that explains or shows what the rim looks like there where the tyre bead would seat. And then compare it to your rims.
@@WestCoastMountainBiker West Coast Mountain Biker thx, that I was asking, also can you answer me the second question which is over this comment? And I have one more question, can you answer me this questions with my bike(If you can, that would help me a lot) I have the cube aim race '19, but I have installed the Shimano Mt 200 hydraulic brakes, will I be able to change my rotor disks from 160mm and 160mm to (around) 224mm and in the rear (around) 204mm?
Sorry man. I didn't understand the second question at first. The valve that they use here is called the Presta valve. The other valve is called Schrader. You get Schrader tubeless valves but obviously they differ in size from the Presta. So if you have existing Schrader size hole in the rim try and source the tubeless version of this type valve.
Great video. Very helpful. I failed once with joe's no flat tubeless kit. The yellow rim tape didn't stick at all to rim the. After watching this video I went to the shop and bought some gorilla tape and then job done. The rim was properly sealed. Thanks
A word of caution there, i also used the Gorilla tape since i could not get a good seal with "No Stans tape" and ended up with way more seal than i could have wished for. Unfortunately found out the hard way when I had to remove the tubeless tire, it was nearly impossible without the use of 2 flat screwdrivers and some elbow grease. The tape glued so strong around the tire bead and so tight that there was no space or way to remove the tire with regular levers, additionally the residue that that the back of the tape leaves is not a good thing. Might work for some but be aware...
I really appreciated the insights of this video it's interesting that a lot of the base of the tubeless setup based off of how well you set up your tire
I would highly discourage denatured alcohol and go isopropyl. Way cleaner surfaces after evaporation. Denatured is one of the worst with leaving a slick film. Just trying to help. (over a decade in the glass industry). Clean surfaces are required for any water tight seal and 100% isopropyl is the only way to go. Love the videos 🤙🏼
Good video; however it is worth noting that you might need to wrap several layers of tape slightly narrower than the inside of the rim. Non-tubeless wheels aren't designed to push the tubeless tyre out into the bead channel, so some internal tension created by a strip of tape between the beads is helpful. To actually get certain tyre-rim combos to seat, I've had good luck with entirely removing my valve core and shooting compressed air into the stem with a blowing nozzle - less resistance than a presta valve.
my tubeless wheels were not tubeless ready or probably not meant to be tubeless at all but i got it to seal with 3 wraps of inch wide gorilla tape, sealant, and the tube strip i put back on after the tape
Same here, non tubeless ready wheel, one strip of gorilla tape, plenty of Stan's, leaked at first thru spokes but sealant stopped leaks, been riding for a few weeks now no flats no leaks
@@Big_Slick It's not a good idea for sealant to get on your spoke nipples. It can freeze them up and make wheel truing difficult or impossible. A bike came into our shop with this problem. We had to cut and replace about a third of the spokes and re-tape the rims.
Great video . But , what if i dont have 4 different width rim tapes to choose ? How can i calculate the right rim tape ? For example in a 22 inner width rim , shall i use a 23mm rim tape , a 21mm , or other ? Thanks
Good question. Typically the drop channel of the rim will take up about 2mm or rim tape so taking the internal width of the rim and adding 2mm is a good way to calculate tape width.
I wonder how often a not explicitly tubeless ready tire fails even with sealant. The tire I have in mind is a Duro Wildlife Leopard 24" x 3.0". It's sturdy (and expensive). The bead is very very tight on the wheel (of a QU-AX unicycle). If it's unlikely to work tubeless, I'd like to avoid the wasted effort.
Couldn't stuff pop through the tire to cause a flat the same as when you have a tube inside, but now you don't have a tube to fix the flat tire. Do you carry the sealing goo, nozels, nozel tool, solvents, rags, plus levers and pump around instead of a change of tube in this case to fix flats? Seems more annoying to deal with, especially if you're in bad weather.
In theory the sealant inside the tire will repair most punctures. So, you may never know that there was a puncture. Same spares needed as a tubed tire. Tire lever, inflation device and a tube. Each system has its pros and cons.
That tape you're using (that you're actually applying) looks vaguely like duct tape, where you've just ripped it to the correct width while the tape is still on the roll..... Or is this just appearances ?
Do i need to buy the ready tubeless rims or not because my roadbike is non tubeless rim and tyre. I already buy the tubeless valve,rim tape and tyre but ididnt work ( using non tubeless rim)?
With road tubeless i would not try to convert a non tubeless rim. The high pressures and high speeds of road riding demand a precise interaction between the tire and rim.
I have yet to find a tubeless tire conversion video that mentions that sealants are temporary. The best sealant has to be replaced every 2 years. Some will only last a few days. You also have to check the temperature rating. Some wont work in hot weather and some will freeze in the cold. and this isn't even taking in consideration how well it seals. This is probably why bikes are sold with inner tubes.
I couldn't tell from the video but is it possible to use a presta valve if you have a schrader valve by default when transitioning from tubes to tubeless?
Some companies make a blue tubeless tape that will work great. Some wheels come with a plastic or fabric rim strip. The rim strip which is not stuck to the rim will not work for tubeless. I hope this helps!
Stans no tubes has a good chart on there website that shows more info. And to be vague on this because there are so many rims and tires out there. the answer is.... Maybe. We have shown success setting up a non tubeless rim and non tubeless tire in our fatbike tubeless video. But this is not always the case. Do a bit of digging for your specific setup and you should find your answer. www.notubes.com/standard-tubeless-system
The lowest part of the inner side of my rim is deep. The rim tape doesn't stretch enough to actually mate with the lowest part. Is that a big deal?? It is holding sealent and pressure, but will the tape stretch and rupture?
Stans no tubes has a great writeup about what non tubeless tires and rims work for running tubeless. There are so many options out there that this is not a yes or no answer unfortunately.
Pro tip: Use Gorilla Tape for your rim tape. It works better than anything else you can buy. I tried Stan's rim tape, but it sucks. It has almost no stretch, so when you try to press it down inside the rim, the edges will wrinkle leaving multiple air gaps. After wasting nearly an hour trying to get a good fit with Stan's, I finally threw it in the garbage and bought a couple rolls of Gorilla Tape To-Go which is one inch wide, sticks extremely well, and it's stretchy, so it presses smoothly into the rim without leaving the edge puckered.
Could I just tape the holes for the spokes instead o taping the hole rim? Maybe with silicon or small pieces of tape. (Tu sum up, make little patches instead of the tape)
We tried this a long time ago, and it was not so successful. But you can certainly try it yourself. Having continuous tape apply inward pressure around the entire perimeter of the rim well.
Is there a specific reason to do the tape overlap around the stem? It seams that you could get a better balance by overlapping the tape on the opposite side of the stem.
Sure that is possible. You need to puncture a hole at the valve, hence the reason for doubling up at the valve. Balance is not generally a concern. The tire will have far more balance issues than the overlapped tape.
Calvin - Question just got a set of WTB : Ranger tires Steel Bead . can i Convert to tubeless ??? i also have another Set WTB tubeless TCS tires the Bead is SOFT !! and Can run Tubeless i check the BOTH BEADS LOOK IDENTICAL EVEN the INTERNAL CASING LOOKS IDENTICAL maybe internally the TCS seas Better !!! Mind YOU another wheelset i have EASTON EA70 XCT had MAXXIS tires and i did a RESEAL with STANS and the 2nd day the sealant was leaking out of the SIDEWALL !!! LIKE SWEATING TIRES !!!!! it eventually stopped SWEATING
My initial response is, give it a try. I have run many non tubeless tire as tubeless. If I were you though, I would reach out to WTB and see what they have to say about it. They may say "no" and these are the reasons why. Or they might give you a vague yes. Either way a good learning experience.
Park Tool : thanks for Reply . I think these were OEM SPEC WTB Ranger on a bike take off with inner tube .the WTB site only list TCS tubeless 4 sale yes leaning experience , going to try Gorilla tape Black or the CLEAR Gorilla tape
There are many possible upsides to tubeless. If you get a small puncture the sealant will seal the hole for you, you can run lower tire pressure with less possibility of pinch flatting, better traction, and a more supple ride (as you don't have to overcome the tube). These are potential positives. There are also some possible negatives that come along with Tubeless.
This is on a mountain bike. It can be done on many current and older mountain bike rims but not all. Stans no tubes has a great chart on their website. The tape be based on the rim. What I find to be the best width of tape is 1mm wider than your rim. This ensures that the tape goes all the way to the wall and the tire does not have a chance to peel the tape at all. Happy wrenching!
Great video... I saw there Giant´s P-XC2 rim (which I have). I would like to ask what tape and valves you used for this rim... ??? According to my discussion with Stans No Tubes company I need to use their custom rim strip RS0048. Do you know this rim strip? Please advice. Thank you
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it? Also in 3:30 instead of using this for the air to do in the wheel can I use the normal?
A UST tubeless tire is considered a clincher. But yes a standard clincher can be run on a UST rim. The UST tires and rims are held to a tighter tolerance allowing them to seal up very well together. The tolerances are within the tolerances of a standard clincher tire though. Hope this helps!
I had success using a bulb syringe instead of clear plastic tube to fill tires with valve stems removed. Just pour sealant into cup and draw it out, about an ounce at a time. make sure tip will fit in stem
For this to work reliably and consistently, both tire and rim should be "tubeless ready". It has been with without this begin the case, and sometimes the only way to know is to try. It may make a huge mess, it may not work, but then clean it all up and go back to tubes.
Hi, I got an Soft tyre hutchinson cobra (ready for tubeless as well the rim), and I have the problem that compressed air is not enough to fill the tyre so the air escape because the soft of the tyre, any tricks to solve this?
Get to a compressor if you can. Also remove your valve core, which open the "throat" of the inflation pathway. This lets air flow in quickly. It can help to have a pal assist. Watch for where it escape, while they hold the tire and your move the bead around there, pushing it over. If the tire bead is no where near rim edge, use a thin plastic lever and "shoe horn" it over to the edge. Assuming the bead hooks, inflate to 50 psi at least to get the bead fully locked. Pull of pump head but be ready to plug air with your finger. Get ready with valve core, open valve and quickly install core. You can actually keep a lot of air in the tire this way. Good luck, these can be tricky.
Hard question to answer because some can and some cannot. What makes a tubeless rim a tubeless rim is that they are held to a tighter tolerance range that allows a tighter fit between the rim and the tire. They will also typically have a bead seat that holds the bead in place.
Yes, A tubeless ready tire is almost identical to a standard tire and can be ran with a tube on a conventional rim. Tubeless tires have generally less or smaller pores in their material to help stop air and sealant loss.
Some manufacturers make a winter formula. Others have a very wide temperature range. Most if not all sealant manufacturers should advertise an operating temperature range.
I tried this using a 26 x 2.3 Maxxis Aggressor tire on a 26" rim from a 2017 Trek 820. CLeaned with alcohol, 1" gorilla tape seal, 100ML of Stan's and I could not get past 0 psi... Air leaks from the sides and I cannot get the tire to seat. Any advice?
use an air compressor to get more air into the tire quickly. I've found this to be the easiest way to achieve a seal. Sometimes a floor pump works, other times i've nearly passed out from trying to pump so fast for so long and achieved nothing. A floor pump can be used to finish once a seal is achieved. I currently remove the valve stem, use the air blaster attachment, and blast air in through the hollow valve. Then screw the valve stem back in after i've seated the tire bead. works like a charm, and effortless.
1Maklak they’re generally lighter than tubes; provide a more comfortable ride and better grip as they require less pressure, but most importantly seal small punctures automatically, which is why tubeless is almost standard for MTB. Not as common for road as thinner tyres are harder to set up and therefore not used in races, except for a few experiments here and there.
@@justinseau Thanks for the fast reply. I also found a video answering my question. Anyway, I use city bicycles (with mudguards, lights and the steering bar high enough to have almost straight back), so tubes are a non-issue for me, I just pump in more air every now and then.
1Maklak sounds like you commute, which I do myself, but on a dropbar with race tyres. It’s not a matter of losing air (which is normal over time), but getting a flat tyre while riding. If you commute in a city with lots of debris and glass on the side of the road then going tubeless is worth considering (saves you from repairing or replacing your tube on the side of the road). But you’re right, the hassle of setting it up makes one wonder if it’s really worth it.
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it? Also in 3:30 instead of using this for the air to do in the wheel can I use the normal?
I have a fat ebike with 26 x 4.0 fat tires that I ride on pavement and want to go tubeless. I am considering getting new Maxxis Mamoth tires, as I like the tread, price and reviews I've read, even though it's not as efficient as smooth pavement meats. My 26" wheels do not have the typical cutouts to lighten them- they're totally solid. My question is about tire construction. Many of the tubeless ready tires of the same model are sold in either 60tpi or 120tpi and some are tubless ready while others are not. Some are foldable and some are not. Some have a wire bead, yada yada yada. Can you fill me in as I have no idea what to buy? Any help would be appreciated. PS, I'm asking this same question on a few other tire/wheel vids, so please don't be offended if you see my question elsewhere. I'm taking as much info as I can get. Thanks in advance.
The folding options that have a kevlar bead are typically lighter weight and will usually have a higher TPI. The higher TPI allows the tire to be more supple and offer lower rolling resistance. The higher thread count also makes the tire lighter. The reason a higher thread count tire is more supple and lighter is that there is less rubber in the tire. These can be tubeless or non tubeless. Personally I ride my fatbike on many different terrains and very much prefer higher thread count tubeless tires. In the snow it makes a massive difference in keeping traction and conforming to the snow pack. Hope this helps.
Tubeless is a clincher system so the answer is yes and no. The components need to be compatible otherwise you will run into tires blowing off the rim, air loss, burping and other issues.
Sometimes there is only one way to find out. Ideally you would want a wider tape for that rim. If the tape can seal all spoke holes, however, it should work.
I had a puncture from a bad colonoscopy in Juarez back in '63. I drank tire sealant and it has held up well since!
K Reed i
wot. How and why would you drink tyre sealant
What width rim tape did you use? Bet the application was difficult
kEn jOnes not at all, I had a friend who used a condom instead of tape!
Ruben Ferguson *IT’S SPELLED TIRE*
Park tool using Gorilla Duct tape as rim tape... All of a sudden I don't feel so alone.
I noticed the same thing, Gorilla tape. Does that really work?
Must
@@gyeag4343 Gorilla tape is the best rim tape on the market. It sticks really well, it has enough stretch to allow it to be pressed smoothly into the rim without wrinkling, and it's airtight.
@@gyeag4343 Don't see why not, it's made for the same purpose -- airtight strong adhesive. Except gorilla tape is made for even more extreme situations.
Paused the video and came to the comments as soon as I saw gorilla tape.
Yes, i would like to see how different sealants react and compare to each other. by the way guys your show is amazing. I've been repairing all my bikes. Thank you so much!
Awesome guy, I still read Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair, even though I haven't rode one for a long time, just started riding again this year, biking can get addicting and fun, if you want to learn what a bicycle is, learn and maintain it yourself, you start picking up essential tools, it's amazing Mr. Jones even explains the part in particular and numbers, he's pretty thorough very impressive..
He always makes things look so easy!
Hey. Thanks for the video.
It really gave me a good idea in which direction to go starting out tubeless. But there is no question. Tubeless is the way to go. So many struggles avoided after taking out the tubes. I found a good method for keeping pressure after your done inflating and the tyre is seated is to rotate and bounce the wheel off the ground several times. Maybe for about 5 minutes. Personally I have had some excellent results doing this.
Love the channel. Good motivation for myself.
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it?
Also in 3:30 instead of using this type thing to fill air in the wheel can I use the normal?like in non tubeless
Hi.
I'm not too sure if the rim will be compatible. I think that is what you're asking. But waht you can do is look for a picture on google that explains or shows what the rim looks like there where the tyre bead would seat. And then compare it to your rims.
@@WestCoastMountainBiker West Coast Mountain Biker thx, that I was asking, also can you answer me the second question which is over this comment? And I have one more question, can you answer me this questions with my bike(If you can, that would help me a lot) I have the cube aim race '19, but I have installed the Shimano Mt 200 hydraulic brakes, will I be able to change my rotor disks from 160mm and 160mm to (around) 224mm and in the rear (around) 204mm?
Sorry man. I didn't understand the second question at first. The valve that they use here is called the Presta valve. The other valve is called Schrader. You get Schrader tubeless valves but obviously they differ in size from the Presta. So if you have existing Schrader size hole in the rim try and source the tubeless version of this type valve.
Just upgraded my bike to Tubless following your video, works a treat! no issues, loving it!
I'm running a fairly ôld sun rims double wall rim front and rear. DW 6000. Think I'm safe to do this conversion with them?
Hi Calvin. A very useful demonstration as usual. You always make clear and concise videos. Greetings from England
this is the best instruction video i have seen, highly recommended.
Great video. Very helpful. I failed once with joe's no flat tubeless kit. The yellow rim tape didn't stick at all to rim the. After watching this video I went to the shop and bought some gorilla tape and then job done. The rim was properly sealed. Thanks
How much pressure in the tires? (I'm thinking of doing a road tubeless conversion with about 60psi)
A word of caution there, i also used the Gorilla tape since i could not get a good seal with "No Stans tape" and ended up with way more seal than i could have wished for. Unfortunately found out the hard way when I had to remove the tubeless tire, it was nearly impossible without the use of 2 flat screwdrivers and some elbow grease. The tape glued so strong around the tire bead and so tight that there was no space or way to remove the tire with regular levers, additionally the residue that that the back of the tape leaves is not a good thing. Might work for some but be aware...
Great information. Once again, Park Tool has the most compressive and informative video on a given topic.
Sorry for the typo. I meant "comprehensive".
@@pemmicanstash7923 i'm glad you squeezed that typo out :]
Love the Video, What a Great Resource for Home Mechanics!!!
Another excellent video, thanks! The Park Tool series is a goldmine.
i used orange seal and the conversion was easy
An O-ring! That was the missing piece of the puzzle!
an o-ring for your go-ring
@@zero.g13 that’s pretty good
I really appreciated the insights of this video it's interesting that a lot of the base of the tubeless setup based off of how well you set up your tire
I would highly discourage denatured alcohol and go isopropyl. Way cleaner surfaces after evaporation. Denatured is one of the worst with leaving a slick film. Just trying to help. (over a decade in the glass industry). Clean surfaces are required for any water tight seal and 100% isopropyl is the only way to go. Love the videos 🤙🏼
the best bike repair videos!!! thank you very much!!!
Good video; however it is worth noting that you might need to wrap several layers of tape slightly narrower than the inside of the rim. Non-tubeless wheels aren't designed to push the tubeless tyre out into the bead channel, so some internal tension created by a strip of tape between the beads is helpful.
To actually get certain tyre-rim combos to seat, I've had good luck with entirely removing my valve core and shooting compressed air into the stem with a blowing nozzle - less resistance than a presta valve.
my tubeless wheels were not tubeless ready or probably not meant to be tubeless at all but i got it to seal with 3 wraps of inch wide gorilla tape, sealant, and the tube strip i put back on after the tape
so how was it bro? was it any good??
Same here, non tubeless ready wheel, one strip of gorilla tape, plenty of Stan's, leaked at first thru spokes but sealant stopped leaks, been riding for a few weeks now no flats no leaks
@@Big_Slick It's not a good idea for sealant to get on your spoke nipples. It can freeze them up and make wheel truing difficult or impossible. A bike came into our shop with this problem. We had to cut and replace about a third of the spokes and re-tape the rims.
Thanks Seth. This was new to me. And I dont understand why someone would dislike your videos. Especially this one.
Are those Park Tool scissors?! How many millions of dollars are those? lol jokes. Great video. Thanks for the refresher! :)
it should be clear that you cant go tubeless if you dont buy Park Tool scissors O_o
Haha
I hate to admit, but I buy Park Tools just to have them all look nice and match. It's for our children afterall. :)
No it’s special tools 🛠
Fuck Park tool for that
Great video .
But , what if i dont have 4 different width rim tapes to choose ?
How can i calculate the right rim tape ?
For example in a 22 inner width rim , shall i use a 23mm rim tape , a 21mm , or other ?
Thanks
Good question. Typically the drop channel of the rim will take up about 2mm or rim tape so taking the internal width of the rim and adding 2mm is a good way to calculate tape width.
Does this work for converting a tubular wheelset to tubeless as well or only clincher to tubeless?
I wonder how often a not explicitly tubeless ready tire fails even with sealant. The tire I have in mind is a Duro Wildlife Leopard 24" x 3.0". It's sturdy (and expensive). The bead is very very tight on the wheel (of a QU-AX unicycle). If it's unlikely to work tubeless, I'd like to avoid the wasted effort.
This is a great video but what about the add fluid step?
Couldn't stuff pop through the tire to cause a flat the same as when you have a tube inside, but now you don't have a tube to fix the flat tire. Do you carry the sealing goo, nozels, nozel tool, solvents, rags, plus levers and pump around instead of a change of tube in this case to fix flats? Seems more annoying to deal with, especially if you're in bad weather.
In theory the sealant inside the tire will repair most punctures. So, you may never know that there was a puncture. Same spares needed as a tubed tire. Tire lever, inflation device and a tube. Each system has its pros and cons.
Hello use specelized tape or any tape? Thanks
Most any tubeless tape will work for you. Brand is not critical.
hi guys. question from brazil here... Did you used a regular black tape on the rim, or is a special tubeless adesive tape?
It looks like gorilla tape which is a very strong duct tape
This is gorilla tape being used in this video. There are many tapes that will work for this purpose. It needs to be strong and resilient to chemicals.
Glass Reinforced Strapping tape also Good
What kind of tape will be the best?
Very informative. Thank you so much.
That tape you're using (that you're actually applying) looks vaguely like duct tape, where you've just ripped it to the correct width while the tape is still on the roll..... Or is this just appearances ?
I noticed that too
Will this work for motorcycle tyre too ..if some one wants to use spoke rim as alloys.
Thinking about converting to tubeless. Was that just Gorilla Tape you used in the video?
Honestly gorilla tape is the best. I had a stans conversion kit and the tape included was crap.
I have a question! I did not catch it but what was the white stuff called pored into the tire. I know it's sealant but what kind? lol
Do i need to buy the ready tubeless rims or not because my roadbike is non tubeless rim and tyre. I already buy the tubeless valve,rim tape and tyre but ididnt work ( using non tubeless rim)?
With road tubeless i would not try to convert a non tubeless rim. The high pressures and high speeds of road riding demand a precise interaction between the tire and rim.
Best part in this video is he is using gorilla tape! The best tubeless rim tape! 😂😂🤣
until it fails. Stans dissolves the glue. everyone avoid claims like this.
@@gregknipe8772 then you just clean and retape the rim... I've never had an issue... running the same tubeless setup for years...
When did you add the fluid? How and how much fluid?
This video may be more help for your question. Sealant is added about 3 minutes in. ruclips.net/video/6lKRYuaxLls/видео.html
very thank you for the information !!!!!!!!!
a great job sir
I have yet to find a tubeless tire conversion video that mentions that sealants are temporary. The best sealant has to be replaced every 2 years. Some will only last a few days.
You also have to check the temperature rating. Some wont work in hot weather and some will freeze in the cold.
and this isn't even taking in consideration how well it seals.
This is probably why bikes are sold with inner tubes.
Great comment, maybe the silicone tube would be good choice?
I couldn't tell from the video but is it possible to use a presta valve if you have a schrader valve by default when transitioning from tubes to tubeless?
I really cannot think of a good way to do that. You would be better off using a schrader tubeless valve.
Thank you for the great video!!! :)
My existing rim does not have any marking, it has like a lip all around the edge of the rim on both side, can I convert it to tubeless tire?
Seems like alot just to have no tube. Are they really any better than a tire with a tube ? Is the performance different ?
hello there.. do you know how sky biking or skycycle tires work?
So if my wheels aren’t “tubeless ready” can I just do this and be fine?
There is only one way to find out, but it is not guaranteed to work.
Hello, sir, is it possible to use a rim that doesnt state anyhwere that it is tubless conversion ready?
Very well done video!
That blue inner tube strip, isn't that already a tape in place for ready rims? I have that, should I remove it?
Some companies make a blue tubeless tape that will work great. Some wheels come with a plastic or fabric rim strip. The rim strip which is not stuck to the rim will not work for tubeless. I hope this helps!
Helps very much, thank you a lot!
Always great videos, thanks!!!
So just to be sure, a tubeless system would work with a non-TR rim and tire? Or would you need one of them TR?
Stans no tubes has a good chart on there website that shows more info. And to be vague on this because there are so many rims and tires out there. the answer is.... Maybe. We have shown success setting up a non tubeless rim and non tubeless tire in our fatbike tubeless video. But this is not always the case. Do a bit of digging for your specific setup and you should find your answer. www.notubes.com/standard-tubeless-system
I tubeless every single tire I want and it's AMAZING
(yes, even so called "tube type" tires)
Will it still hold air?
The lowest part of the inner side of my rim is deep. The rim tape doesn't stretch enough to actually mate with the lowest part. Is that a big deal?? It is holding sealent and pressure, but will the tape stretch and rupture?
Are Schrader valves also available?
Yes they are. Stans no tubes has Schrader tubeless valves.
how much sealant did you put?
it is allow to convert a non tubelss ready to tubless?
Stans no tubes has a great writeup about what non tubeless tires and rims work for running tubeless. There are so many options out there that this is not a yes or no answer unfortunately.
what do you mean?
Pro tip: Use Gorilla Tape for your rim tape. It works better than anything else you can buy. I tried Stan's rim tape, but it sucks. It has almost no stretch, so when you try to press it down inside the rim, the edges will wrinkle leaving multiple air gaps. After wasting nearly an hour trying to get a good fit with Stan's, I finally threw it in the garbage and bought a couple rolls of Gorilla Tape To-Go which is one inch wide, sticks extremely well, and it's stretchy, so it presses smoothly into the rim without leaving the edge puckered.
It is necessary to remove old rim tape? And how many loop of gorilla tape did you put on the rim?
@@danl5632 Yes, remove old rim tape. I did one loop of Gorilla Tape, and it's holding. Some people recommend two loops.
Could I just tape the holes for the spokes instead o taping the hole rim? Maybe with silicon or small pieces of tape. (Tu sum up, make little patches instead of the tape)
We tried this a long time ago, and it was not so successful. But you can certainly try it yourself. Having continuous tape apply inward pressure around the entire perimeter of the rim well.
Is that black duct tape used to seal the rim?
Will this work in any rims?? I have a clincher. I wanna switch to tubeless can i just tape the rims to be tubeless ready,
No, it does not work in all cases. The rim and tire need a proper fit as well. You can try it, sometimes that is the only way to know.
Is there a specific reason to do the tape overlap around the stem? It seams that you could get a better balance by overlapping the tape on the opposite side of the stem.
Sure that is possible. You need to puncture a hole at the valve, hence the reason for doubling up at the valve. Balance is not generally a concern. The tire will have far more balance issues than the overlapped tape.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
Calvin - Question
just got a set of WTB : Ranger tires Steel Bead .
can i Convert to tubeless ???
i also have another Set WTB tubeless TCS tires the Bead is SOFT !! and Can run Tubeless
i check the BOTH BEADS LOOK IDENTICAL EVEN the INTERNAL CASING LOOKS IDENTICAL
maybe internally the TCS seas Better !!!
Mind YOU another wheelset i have EASTON EA70 XCT had MAXXIS tires and i did a RESEAL with STANS and the 2nd day the sealant was leaking out of the SIDEWALL !!! LIKE SWEATING TIRES !!!!!
it eventually stopped SWEATING
My initial response is, give it a try. I have run many non tubeless tire as tubeless. If I were you though, I would reach out to WTB and see what they have to say about it. They may say "no" and these are the reasons why. Or they might give you a vague yes. Either way a good learning experience.
Park Tool : thanks for Reply .
I think these were OEM SPEC WTB Ranger on a bike take off with inner tube .the WTB site only list TCS tubeless 4 sale
yes leaning experience , going to try Gorilla tape Black or the CLEAR Gorilla tape
I have a question. Can I make Tubeless a single wall wheel?
There are tubeless compatible single wall rims out there and there are some that are not compatible so the answer is yes and no.
Other than a weight consideration, what are or is the benefit of going tubleess?
There are many possible upsides to tubeless. If you get a small puncture the sealant will seal the hole for you, you can run lower tire pressure with less possibility of pinch flatting, better traction, and a more supple ride (as you don't have to overcome the tube). These are potential positives. There are also some possible negatives that come along with Tubeless.
@@parktool Can you use any type of taip
Thanks for this video!
Can this be done with Mountain bikes? Also does the width of the tape match the width on the tire like 2.25"?
This is on a mountain bike. It can be done on many current and older mountain bike rims but not all. Stans no tubes has a great chart on their website. The tape be based on the rim. What I find to be the best width of tape is 1mm wider than your rim. This ensures that the tape goes all the way to the wall and the tire does not have a chance to peel the tape at all. Happy wrenching!
Very informative, thank you!
Can Isypropol be used as an alternative to cleaning? (99%)
Isopropyl will work great!
awesome thank you for the reply much appreciated.
Great video...
I saw there Giant´s P-XC2 rim (which I have). I would like to ask what tape and valves you used for this rim... ???
According to my discussion with Stans No Tubes company I need to use their custom rim strip RS0048. Do you know this rim strip?
Please advice.
Thank you
I heat up and melt the tape with hot poker so it's perfectly round hole
December 1st...
Nut secured boys
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it?
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it? Also in 3:30 instead of using this for the air to do in the wheel can I use the normal?
My rims are tubeless ready but the tires are tubed type. Can I still convert to tubeless?
The tires also need to be a tubeless design for it to work well.
were is your bicycle shop repair? you can aling the bent wheel.
Right on, Thanks for that.
Really helpful 😊
Can a clincher tire be run safely on a tubeless ready (TLR) or TCS rim? Can a clincher tire be run on a UST tubeless rim?
A UST tubeless tire is considered a clincher. But yes a standard clincher can be run on a UST rim. The UST tires and rims are held to a tighter tolerance allowing them to seal up very well together. The tolerances are within the tolerances of a standard clincher tire though. Hope this helps!
are there schrader valve stems.
I had success using a bulb syringe instead of clear plastic tube to fill tires with valve stems removed. Just pour sealant into cup and draw it out, about an ounce at a time. make sure tip will fit in stem
Do the tires have to be "tubeless ready" for this conversion to work?
For this to work reliably and consistently, both tire and rim should be "tubeless ready". It has been with without this begin the case, and sometimes the only way to know is to try. It may make a huge mess, it may not work, but then clean it all up and go back to tubes.
So I can convert my regular non tubeless tire to a tubeless?
Hi, I got an Soft tyre hutchinson cobra (ready for tubeless as well the rim), and I have the problem that compressed air is not enough to fill the tyre so the air escape because the soft of the tyre, any tricks to solve this?
Get to a compressor if you can. Also remove your valve core, which open the "throat" of the inflation pathway. This lets air flow in quickly. It can help to have a pal assist. Watch for where it escape, while they hold the tire and your move the bead around there, pushing it over. If the tire bead is no where near rim edge, use a thin plastic lever and "shoe horn" it over to the edge. Assuming the bead hooks, inflate to 50 psi at least to get the bead fully locked. Pull of pump head but be ready to plug air with your finger. Get ready with valve core, open valve and quickly install core. You can actually keep a lot of air in the tire this way. Good luck, these can be tricky.
I used a tie down strap around the tire the long way to squish it into the rim to get it to set the bead.
can you convert a standard rim to tubless, what makes a rim tubeless ready?
Hard question to answer because some can and some cannot. What makes a tubeless rim a tubeless rim is that they are held to a tighter tolerance range that allows a tighter fit between the rim and the tire. They will also typically have a bead seat that holds the bead in place.
Can you use a tubeless tire on a regular tubed rim?
I would like to know to hopefully
Yes, A tubeless ready tire is almost identical to a standard tire and can be ran with a tube on a conventional rim. Tubeless tires have generally less or smaller pores in their material to help stop air and sealant loss.
Wow good job lods
Does this slime freeze? It is a latex mix correct?
Some manufacturers make a winter formula. Others have a very wide temperature range. Most if not all sealant manufacturers should advertise an operating temperature range.
Can you make tubeless tyres with wheels not made for it?
People have attempted this with very mixed results. It has been done but there is no guarantee it will work well, or at all.
Is this possible with a tubular rim?
I tried this using a 26 x 2.3 Maxxis Aggressor tire on a 26" rim from a 2017 Trek 820. CLeaned with alcohol, 1" gorilla tape seal, 100ML of Stan's and I could not get past 0 psi... Air leaks from the sides and I cannot get the tire to seat. Any advice?
use an air compressor to get more air into the tire quickly. I've found this to be the easiest way to achieve a seal. Sometimes a floor pump works, other times i've nearly passed out from trying to pump so fast for so long and achieved nothing. A floor pump can be used to finish once a seal is achieved. I currently remove the valve stem, use the air blaster attachment, and blast air in through the hollow valve. Then screw the valve stem back in after i've seated the tire bead. works like a charm, and effortless.
Why go through all the trouble to do this when a tire with a tube works just fine? Are there any advantages to a tubeless tire?
1Maklak they’re generally lighter than tubes; provide a more comfortable ride and better grip as they require less pressure, but most importantly seal small punctures automatically, which is why tubeless is almost standard for MTB. Not as common for road as thinner tyres are harder to set up and therefore not used in races, except for a few experiments here and there.
@@justinseau Thanks for the fast reply. I also found a video answering my question. Anyway, I use city bicycles (with mudguards, lights and the steering bar high enough to have almost straight back), so tubes are a non-issue for me, I just pump in more air every now and then.
1Maklak sounds like you commute, which I do myself, but on a dropbar with race tyres. It’s not a matter of losing air (which is normal over time), but getting a flat tyre while riding. If you commute in a city with lots of debris and glass on the side of the road then going tubeless is worth considering (saves you from repairing or replacing your tube on the side of the road). But you’re right, the hassle of setting it up makes one wonder if it’s really worth it.
Can you tell me if I can install on my wheel the tubeless but my hasn't a logo with tubeless? Or it can't handle it? Also in 3:30 instead of using this for the air to do in the wheel can I use the normal?
Park tool scissors are the biggest flex other than gucci banans
I have a fat ebike with 26 x 4.0 fat tires that I ride on pavement and want to go tubeless. I am considering getting new Maxxis Mamoth tires, as I like the tread, price and reviews I've read, even though it's not as efficient as smooth pavement meats. My 26" wheels do not have the typical cutouts to lighten them- they're totally solid. My question is about tire construction. Many of the tubeless ready tires of the same model are sold in either 60tpi or 120tpi and some are tubless ready while others are not. Some are foldable and some are not. Some have a wire bead, yada yada yada. Can you fill me in as I have no idea what to buy? Any help would be appreciated. PS, I'm asking this same question on a few other tire/wheel vids, so please don't be offended if you see my question elsewhere. I'm taking as much info as I can get. Thanks in advance.
The folding options that have a kevlar bead are typically lighter weight and will usually have a higher TPI. The higher TPI allows the tire to be more supple and offer lower rolling resistance. The higher thread count also makes the tire lighter. The reason a higher thread count tire is more supple and lighter is that there is less rubber in the tire. These can be tubeless or non tubeless. Personally I ride my fatbike on many different terrains and very much prefer higher thread count tubeless tires. In the snow it makes a massive difference in keeping traction and conforming to the snow pack. Hope this helps.
What kind of tape sir?
How hard does it take a MAG bicycle wheel and go to with v rubber tires tubeless
Did I miss something or did the entire part about inflating / sealant get skipped her?
And thanks for the video!
Can I convert clincher to tubeless?
Tubeless is a clincher system so the answer is yes and no. The components need to be compatible otherwise you will run into tires blowing off the rim, air loss, burping and other issues.
Hi, can i use 32mm tubeless rim tape on a 35mm internal width rim?
Sometimes there is only one way to find out. Ideally you would want a wider tape for that rim. If the tape can seal all spoke holes, however, it should work.
.wow, the wheels are so aligned..
thanks for your technic!!!!