Tested Carver board to downhill skateboarding conversion | Caliber trucks 2 & 3 | blood orange drift
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2024
- Hi. Tinkering never stops with my quiver and really stoked on this set up.
Carver Surfskate (original board & CX trucks removed)
Caliber 2 base with Caliber 3 Hanger
Blood orange drift series
Looking forward for some more fun sessions.
Semper Fi & Ductus Exemplo-
Jon
I love this content so much because it reminds me of when I started skating down hills when I was a teenager. Such a vibe!
Keep in mind beefcake pucks when you're thorugh the pucks you got, trust.
Yes, I definitely will. May just order some any way.
Yes, awesome and thank you.
Very calm evasive maneuver indeed! Kudos for those nerves of steel!
Thank you. Gaining more confidence little by little.
c'est un plaisir de te voir bien progresser ! 🙂🙃🙂😉
Thank you. 😊 Appreciate the positivity and result of simple and consistent practice.
et sutout take care 🙂🙃🙂🙃😉@@cantskate5535
Also for bringing those colemans back I would recommend focusing on your shoulder position, once sliding if you bring your right shoulder back and down the board should just follow. Might need a bit more speed for them which can be scary
Thank you for pointing out right shoulder back and it makes more mental sense for me.
Your form was looking real good in that video of you just practicing keeping low and carving. All you would need to do for perfect colemans and toeside drifts would be to put your hand down around 12-18inches from your board and a slight kick out instead of falling so far back onto your hand. I'm sure you'll get them dialled in soon at this rate. I assume your hips are quite tight so that could definitely be a point to focus on off of the board, 90 90 hip stretches would probably be your best friend for progression
Thank you for clarifying good distance of back arm/hand; definitely feel more outstretched a good part of the time, but with the planned hip training/stretching - it should help.
This legit looks like a fun setup. However, the taller ride height is making the setup brake too hard (judging from the amount of thane you're getting out the Drifts). If you can lower the ride height somewhat (but make sure to not risk wheelbite), it should be easier to slide - and also easier to reach down with the glovedown hand.
Do you have narrower hangers? If you have some narrower hangers, it could help prevent wheelbite (when lowering the ride height), since the wheels would be more tucked-in under the deck at full lean. Hangers don't even have to be Caliber hangers because Caliber baseplates can fit almost all "Randal-geometry" hangers (such as Randal, Paris, Boardnamics, PNL, etc.).
Thank you. Agree on the height and do need to lower it. Currently 1/2” hard riser. Liking the hanger idea, but don’t have any more narrower ones. Good to know Caliber base plates are accepting of other hangers, so may order from Sk8kings where I got the 35 degree bases plate.
One question though, what bushings are you running boardside? I can see 93A HPF barrels roadside, but what about boardside? If those are 90A, then it may feel a bit unnatural to carve, since it will feel easy to carve near center and harder to carve further away from center (feeling of anti-dive). A harder roadside bushing may make the center feel vague and unstable, while making it feel deceptively difficult to lean towards the end of lean - like it wants to fight you - you don't want a setup that fights your inputs but rather a setup that follows your inputs - in my opinion.
90A is what is board side. What do you think it should be? Truthfully barely understanding the nuances of bushings.
@@cantskate5535 If you're running double cups and are happy with the current performance, I'd keep the boardside (since the boardside does most of the work). However, for roadside, since you're running double cups, maybe you want to goto a lower duro, so that the truck helps you carve, and for Venom HPF, one step lower than 90A is 87A, which you already have.
However, if you're running boardside cupped washer and roadside flat or flipped cup washer, then you can run them all at the same durometer (all 90A boardside and roadside), and they will still help you carve because the washer makes the boardside feel harder.
Rule of thumb is you want the boardside to have a little more resistance (whether by durometer or by washer settings), so that the truck doesn't fight your lean.
Additionally, shapes also play a role. If you run a bigger bushing shape boardside, then you can run a slightly harder durometer roadside, and it will still feel like the boardside has more resistance. For example, in this situation, if you were running 87A Venom freerides (aka. barricles), then you can run 90A barrels roadside, and it will likely feel like the roadside is softer. Similar thing happens with plug barrels boardside, but they're probably not gonna allow for going up a whole step in durometer roadside, but will allow you to run cupped barrels of the same durometer. For example, if you're running 90A plug barrels boardside (cupped washers), then you can run 90A barrels boardside (cupped washers).
You should test out different configurations to find one that you're happy with the feel of carving. But in general, more resistance boardside and less resistance roadside (relative to each other) is the way to go.
Good luck! And have fun!
@@nickamarit wow-so much amazing detail and thank you is not enough. 🙇🏻♂️ Will definitely test various items you mentioned-truthfully don’t understand it all, but will be posting those changes and sure your keen eye elaborate & refine. Thank you-seriously: you’re amazing - Coach.
@@cantskate5535 You're welcome! I love your videos!
You got your bushings set up upside down.. swap them.
Are you using venom bushings? In the 25 plate
Yes. I use only venoms. This one was 90a plug base/93a street(back). Just changed front today to 90a plug base/90a barrel street.
Venom is the best