How to Frame and Trim a Splayed Velux Roof Window ---
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- I figured out how to correctly splay the reveals on my Velux roof windows, so I thought I would share it. Lot's of people think it's all down to the plasterboard but if it's not framed properly then you will never be able to splay the plasterboard. My method looks to be ideal for using in conjunction with the Velux LSG kit but I think I might have other plans.
With the correct splays you get more light. Incorrectly splayed reveals can trap warm air and lead to condensation.
It seems 99% of tradesman don't splay their reveals and I'm surprised there's no information out there on how to do so. I've only ever seen one picture where a tradesman tried to do it but angled the actual trimmers themselves (although they wasn't vertical and horizontal) and it all looked abit wrong.
It's always a good idea to order your windows before you frame your roof. I had already put in my rafters beforehand. So I worked with what was there for my doubled rafters rather than trying to move them. This will mean that I won't be able to use the sides of the insulation collar and will probably use abit of spray foam. We shall see what happens when I actually fit them and insulate everything.
0:00 intro
2:55 how to figure out where to place velux roof window
8:53 know how to place and lay out trimmers for splayed velux roof window
12:52 cutting rafters and framing out for a splayed velux roof window
#roofwindows #velux #howto
About me:
I'm Aiden and I'm documenting what was supposed to be my barn conversion, which has now ended up being a new build. I don't have a trade, I just have a go and I'll be doing lots of work myself. This is the boring bit in grand designs that you don't get to see. Subscribe and follow along to find out how our future home turns out
Oh ffs I just realised there was a typo! So far, 74 of you appear to have not spotted it 😂 unless you're all just being kind and not pulling me up on it
Finally a full description of how to correctly trim out splayed roof windows.
Very informative - thanks! You can never watch too many videos about installing Velux windows before doing it yourself!
No problem, hope it helps 👍
You are right, nowhere have I found information on framing around the skylight. Well explained. I'll be doing this in my lost soon. Subscribed.
Nice to see you more relaxed and having fun😀
Watching this after losing a million brain cells daily from smashing my head on my velux reveal. You're right there, most tradesmen just do the quickest way.
Ah that's gotta be super annoying
Class vid mate. Thanks for doing it.
No probs mate. Are you looking to splay your roof windows?
Nice one, have been looking how to do that, thanks.
You're welcome buddy 👍
As I said before it is all about the planning, you have a vested interest on how it will look and turn out something others are never going to have to the same degree. It is the little details like planning the tiles so you have full tiles up to the underside of the velux that make all the difference. Well done and keep up the good work.
Thanks Michael 👍 how's the editing going for your extension recordings?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Slowly! I'm still trying to decide to either make it into one long video probably over 30 mins or split it into parts!
@@oldtimer43 maybe split it? I think the 15-20min mark seems to be best. I'm having an editing day today instead of building, put my thumb in the table saw last night! I turned it off but reached too quick so it was still spinning, ouch!
Even if you were cutting a window in, you would always work from a full tile underneath the window, leaving adequate gap for your particular manufacturers amount of flashing.
Brilliant!
Thanks 🫡
Got it, thx
Great vid mate, you’re clearly a natural! I feel like one of the reasons Velux and their chums don’t go all in on splay info is because it has a major flaw imho. Where the rafters taper in for the start of the splay, you have diminishing insulation if any and your U value will go bonkers. Very likely that will in itself promote condensation, offsetting any benefit of the improved air flow. I’m not saying it’s no good, i’d just personally take my chances boxing the reveals more and relying on the air movement and better thermal resistance to stave off condensation issues. Granted you get better light with splay but unless you have issues with light, it’s too marginal to be an overriding reason for me personally.
Thanks 👍 I think I've done a playlist for my velux so you could take a look at how I insulated it in one of the videos. I also have a thermal camera and had a look at the velux windows in a video where I tested out the camera, it's perfectly fine 😉 the biggest issue with the velux is actually the glass! They don't use warm edge spacers 🤦 they're aluminium and that's where I get the cold bridging and condensation on the edge of the glass 😑
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks for the reply! I didn’t find the vid but will take your word for it. Funnily enough we are temporarily staying in a room at my mum’s which has a splayed velux (90s build). In the narrower tapered part of the horizontal splay the emulsion is currently wet with condensation. Might just be that the old school mineral wool insulation is so poor but also I suspect your idea of that timber cross member laid on its side has much better thermal resistance in its own right and doesn’t feature here. Anyway we’ve already built ours boxed in and going to see how it goes. Next time we do a build i think I’ll give your way a go. Happy build anyway mate. Am subscribing and am working my way through the vids. Entertaining stuff!
@@bapooHere's the insulation video ruclips.net/video/zs_W8fvBNgE/видео.html
@@bapoohere's the thermal camera video the velux part is further into the video ruclips.net/video/kd4PrbsL6T8/видео.html
The long screws certainly work. Toenails are stronger than straight through the end grain. The Simpson rafter ties etc....ties have a hole(or two) in them for the toenail now days.
I feel better knowing I toenailed them as well then 🙂
Aiden nice strong workmanship. As for the splayed shaft, all the people that I learned under(USA) always flair the light shaft. In fact I did so on all 4 sides with a flat ceiling on the inside this means starting at the curb bottom. Gets pretty tricky on the trimmer sides because the angle changes as you go up or down from the ceiling to trimmer. So it is either wet thin drywall down and bend it or use lath and plaster; but with great results in light diffusion? Protrusion? confusion? Anyhow I have angled the headers before, like the old school Velux video but the trimmers would only work angled if the ceilings if the ceiling is parallel(vaulted) for reasons mentioned before, the change of angle as you go up. Now days I just double header and put a third angled header just to hold the drywall for the flair or splay. Was abit your typo?
Thanks mate. The typo was "come to thik of it" haha It does seem American and Canadian framers are proper craftsman compared to UK framers. I suppose that's because it's mostly about brick and mortar over here? I had considered an angled trimmer but wanted to leave it open for the chance to insulate better
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT like I said if you have a flat ceiling inside it will get weird on flaired trimmers; better to frame straight from the curb on the roof and down to ceiling but every framing member is at a different angle on the flair and you have to bend the drywall. Spray foam is your friend if you were angling a trimmer R-10 foam prevents 93ish % of heat or cold from passing r-20 gets you 94% ish so diminishing returns 1.5 - 2inches of polyiso board over the framing versus fiber insulation between will work miracles at preventing condensation. A cold light chamber = condensation I have seen wall studs frost up inside a house; just the studs. In answer to the USA versus UK. I will guarantee there are more shady builders here. I just don't work with them or hire them. Some of the greatest wood workers come from UK, Japan, Poland, Norway, Canada, Denmark. Europe has higher code standards. Even the Simpson joist hangars and stuff are about twice the thickness over there. Is that needed? Well, no, not until they start to rust in the long term. Cheers!
Great vid. I think it is a first!
@9.48 you drop a plumb from your extra trimmer and not from the corner of window. Hence you double trimmers are too far back and you needed to put that filler piece in. So couldn't you move your double trimmers (top n bottom) closer together by c. 1.5" top and bottom?
It all works mind you and your vids are a top job 👍✌️ thanks
Thanks mate. Yeah I plumbed it from the batten below the window, the trimmers could be moved further up but it all depends on how you plan to insulate round the window. I've got another video showing how I done that. The way I trimmed it out meant I could get enough pir insulation in place so I reduced any cold bridging. It's abit hard to describe though, I think I've done a velux playlist on my channel if your interested in seeing what I mean. If you use a full velux kit they push you in the direction of having a 50mm box section all the way round before it splays out but I wanted to have the splay straight from the frame. Have you got some to fit yourself?
No red line on the side as no brackets fitted to the side on the red fixings.
I've just fitted 3 velux with splays & also had concerns about the distance from the trimmers to the frame.
Did you end up doing something similar to me or just left it with the trimmers further out? I suppose it would matter more the bigger the window is
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I considered adding extra timber under the one batten that was left floating although my first thoughts was just an extra trimmer on it's vertical rather than on its side like your solution. My rafters are 9 inch deep so was thinking maybe something like a 5 inch ish trimmer so it would still fit inside the splay. However during the chaos of the build I completely forgot about it until I was slating the roof yesterday & noticed the extra bounce in the bat while nailing the slates to it. I'm not hugely worried about it but I may still add extra timber to support the bat when I get a spare min either as I initially thought or I may steal your idea if it looks like it will work better 👍
Thanks so much for this! Why is this information not on Velux's website?!?!
I know, it's not anywhere on the Internet! Apart from right here of course 🙌
IF i ever put velux in myself, this vid will be my first port of cal. and i suggest you use 200mm.
IF you ever do then maybe you can use 200mm 😂 you might need a right angle drill though
You should have angled the horizontal timber to allow ait flow
Not sure what you mean? Do you mean put the double trimmer at an angle to effectively get an extra 150mm of air gap?
Pre drill the timber that you are fixing to the structure ,saves a lot of battery and splitting ,
Measure from the bottom row of tiles to 100 mill from the ridge and workout the length by the tile spacing ,round this measurement up and that will, give you how many roof laths you will need ,and that we all your tiles will be equally spaced ,and if your also using a pasload gun then you can't be very confident in your structural fixings
Thanks for the input. Just remember, getting a car with an airbag means you can't be very confident in your seat belt 😜
I mean, if the nail is going in... what does it matter what brand is on the side of it?