Hey Stu, Just touching base to see if everything is okay? Noticed it's been some time since you've uploaded. No doubt you're just up to your elbows in it! Love the content mate.
Happy New Year to you and Yours Stu. Hope everything is OK in your neck of the woods. Missing you and your stellar content. Best Wishes from the Old Country.
I listened about 10 times and even put captions on and I still see/hear “time certain” when describing what looks like a threaded sleeve in one of the holes where a bolt sheared. Please put me out of my misery 🙏
Without a thermostat bypass coolant close to combustion will first boil before heat conducts to the thermostat. Due to steam expanding in the circuit, coolant is lost past the safety relief valve causing heat to increase before the thermostat opens. The bypass circuit is designed to pass just under the thermostat thermal bulb to rejoin the circuit down stream. The bypass allows all of the coolant to uniformly increase in temperature until the thermostat opens. Cheers
This project is brilliant. If the goal is to keep the characteristics of an outboard at the core of your solution, then my money says, it’s doomed to fail. Why? Because there are some major challenges that lie ahead. (Especially with a retrofit) The existing outboard cooling method is too efficient to improve upon. An enclosed system, by design, Introduces inefficiencies that will transform its tiny footprint into a donkey and cart. A current outboard is self contained, compact, almost portable (4 bolts); reliable, lightweight, efficient, and very cheap to manufacture, maintain, and operate. Flushing and impeller maintenance is all that is required to keep it functional. Fresh water use is best of course. May I be so bold as to say, there is no real problem to solve. ( or at least none to solve when operated correctly) The following features afforded by a raw water system, give us the outboard motor as we know it. An enclosed system cannot utilise them. 1- tiny coolant capillaries and low surface area requirements of coolant/.material tho be cooked. (This is only possible because of a low pressure, fast coolant flow, and a low coolant temperature environment) This environment is the plat opposite of an enclosed system. 2. Raw water cooling in an outboard has a coolant lifecycle that is way more efficient than enclosed. It uses the unlimited raw water efficiently. If fact, it is too efficient and needs to continually uses thermostats, and poppet valves throughout the engines run cycle to raise the temperature of the cylinders to maintain optimal combustion conditions. (Cars do this type of temp management on startup only). The raw water coolant lifecycle is as follows… Cold water in, water gets warmer through the power head, water becomes hot over the exhaust manifold then is expelled. The last stage of the coolant lifecycle (exhaust manifold )is where the outboard temperature is predominately managed. The coolant needs to be hot enough to not damage the manifold, therefore when it has passed through the manifold cooling stage, the coolant is too hot and the flow is now slow, free and lush. Then bye bye into the sea or lake it goes. Good luck managing the coolant from here to cool it efficiently enough to pass back through to the first stage of an enclosed recirculated system. Here comes the next stage of complexity and cost.
I like how not only have you painted your impact sockets to look like normal sockets, your safety glasses (necessary for the freak occurance of one of your impact sockets shattering) look just like normal glasses 😄
Just woke up and had not had my first sip of coffee. at 1:10 I did a double take. Thinking what did Stu just say? Then I cracked up. 1st good laugh of the day. Thank you for your subtle humor.
I was admiring the 2 band spear gun in the background. I put together 6 slingshots and made a slingshot crossbow with an old crossbow I had that the old bow limbs warped on. It actually shoots an arrow quite well and accurate, but may go to another level of band and try spear gun bands. If the kids don't share, blame the parents... Daffy.
My dad had the idea of closed circuit cooling on big outboards using a heat exchanger built in to the cavitation plate so it would look a bit like the bolt on hydrofoil wings.
Hey, it could also be cool to maybe start woth just having a variable controlled electronic pump thats external from the engine and see if performance can be improved
Hey Stu, are you and Adrian both doing ok? I haven’t seen anything new from either of you for a very long time. I hope all is well with you and Happy New Year.
Looks like you've got you work cut out. But you're on the right track. My old idea for heat was to run the leftover cooling water through a heater without modifying the outboard. But the closed system would definitely supply better heat.
Without a thermostat bypass coolant close to combustion will first boil before heat conducts to the thermostat. Due to steam expanding in the circuit, coolant is lost past the safety relief valve causing heat to increase before the thermostat opens. The bypass circuit is designed to pass just under the thermostat thermal bulb to rejoin the circuit down stream. The bypass allows all of the coolant to uniformly increase in temperature until the thermostat opens. Cheers
Hi there dangar Stu Great idea for a vid!! Fuel float in tank failure not sending accurate info to Yamaha command link and perhaps what ohm reading is required by Yamaha gauges . Also if you do this vid quite soon that would really help me cause that’s the problem I have at the moment - hahahah like your going to do a vid just for me - I’m dreaming!! But hey if I work it out in the interim I can share info for others. Love those silver painted impact sockets - look just like myn
Having a green coopers I noticed that the stool that is under/behind your elbow at 10:00 is exactly the same as a set I have (which I inherited from my grandparents, so probably dating from the 1960s) - have yours also had rats nibble away at the legs??
Ah, that was and onboard engine batch falling on it. The stools have survived so far but just about everything else gets eaten by the rats, particularly with chook food everywhere.
Another awesome video. Was thinking that if you are using temp control for the coolant pump, why don't you just get rid of the thermostat. The temp controlled pump is essentially doing the thermostats job.
On the rust removal, have you tried electrolysis? Just need a battery charger and a baking soda solution. Plenty of stull on YT on the details and it works very well.
For the multi-tube parallel flow grid cooler, if the end manifolds are not very flow symmetrical with respect to the cooler inlet and outlet lines you won't get equal flow through the individual cooler tubes. I have actually seen this cause overheating with two grid coolers piped in parallel flow. It's basically a low pressure flow system so small differences in resistance between the individual cooler lines make big differences in the flow through each individual cooler line. An oversized pump would develop enough pressure to make this a non-issue long as the manifolds were reasonably flow symmetrical.
Hi Stu, Could you use Transmission coolers possibly fixed under the water level on the back of the boat , to cool the outboard water via a pump and a few connections?? just a thought! hurt a bit! K)
Hi... Been watching and been a fan of your sow for years... Love it... I have a problem and hope you could help... I have a Yamaha 2 stroke 3 cylinder 40 hp... My motor bogs down on low rpm and runs fine full throttle... Sometimes the motor loose power... If I throttle back to neutral and push throttle forward motor powers up with speed and then looses RPM after a few minutes... I have replaced the fuel line... Cleaned carbs . cleaned all filters... cleaned fuel pump... Still have the same problem... Please help!
Will you put a link to the TIG machine in the next video? I recently inherited a few welding machines, including a TIG that claims to have an AC function so it should do aluminium, but they're all the way down in Tasmania. I'm in Adelaide.
Hey :) I’d really appreciate some help - my outboard water pump works perfectly in a bucket when span wjth a drill - it sprays out the tell tail, yet as soon as I run it with the engine going I don’t get any water through the tell tail. It must be something to do with exhaust gasses because I get a small amount of exhaust gas from the tell tail even! Very strange! It’s a 1977 Evinrude 35. 2 cylinder 2 stroke. Regardless of rpm, in gear or out it won’t pump water. With the drill spinning the crank and the plugs out to reduce compression it works flawlessly! Thanks so much in advance - Tom Western Australia.
Hey so if the coolant pump is variable speed based on temperature why not just remove the thermostat entirely and let coolant flow through the engine, no air pockets no restrictions. Would allow for more control on temperature I’d presume.
🤔Keel-coolers are a great idea. Soak a dunked motor until you are ready to work on it. Water can be pumped through/around heat exchangers in different ways, including electric pumps and forward motion. Manifolds can be built for precise control and actual use of the 'generated' heat as hydronic heat or hot water. Multiple outboards could generate - motion, electricity, and heat -which normally dissipates after cooling. A dry exhaust with headers would be awesome 🙂 Hot-Tub anyone ?
FWIW - electric pumps with pressure reduction and diversion valves - can deliver different pressures, send air back to the fuel tank and pre-prime the system before ignition. Very cool concept Dangar - so many possibilities - like heated seats 🙂
I have a 1988 evinrude 150 hp. The motor runs good at idle up to about halfway way to wot. Then it starts surging . I have shotgun blast parts at it, and the problem continues. I have replaced the stator, timeing switch, cdi, both power packs, new plugs, wires, and coils, replaced fuel lines, new fuel pump, rebuilt the carbs, and replaced the exhaust gasket between the mid section and powerhead. I have not replaced the limiter switch or the vacuum switch. At wide open, it feels like either a loss of spark or loss of fuel. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Stu, looking to move to a 4 stroke fwd control from my 90hp evinrude, in good order. Best way to price it and also recommendation on size of 4 star for 5.1 meters side console, not needing to drive at warp speed lol
Great video Stu. I had a probably dumb question ( I don't know anything about engines) : But what is the need for the coolant thermostat? I.e. why couldn't the water just be always flowing regardless of temperature, surely there's no such thing as an cylinder\engine being "too cold"?
IDK, Stu, I can't quite wrap my head around the idea of a circuit without a bypass. I would say, "check your work", but you're a clever lad, if it had been there, you'd have seen it. Is it possible that the little two-stroke builds heat so quickly that the thermostat opens before there's a chance for air to be separated from the cooling flow? Keeping in mind that, with the stock setup, raw water was circulating through the leg and exhaust, so pressure couldn't build up too much, prior to the thermostat opening?
The thermostat could have a leaky face on the bit that moves.. If you drill a hole .. a air bubble can block it.. even on car engines.. this is why there is a little bit of metal loose in it.. easiest option is do a slot so a bubble can't get lodged... A car heater radiator is a possibility.. The multiple pipes of an exchanger.. reduce the flow speed as water (or air) moving too quick doesn't allow heat transfer...
Hi Yamaha owners... Just a question on a motor problem. 2 stroke 40 hp 3 cylinder Auto lube.. with electric choke Motor starts on the key with no problems... When I put the motor in gear the RPM rises very high ( out of water) Throttle not even halfway down... Driving under load ( in water) motor picks up speed quickly with no problems untill about 5 to 10 minutes driving and then looses power . Only way to get back on speed is to throttle down to neutral and push throttle back to original position when driving. Things I already did.. 1. Cleaned carbz 2. Replaced fuel line with new . 3. Cleaned out all fuel filters 4. Replaced fuel pump with a new one. 5. Did pressure test.. 120 psi 6. Replaced spark plugs with new ones Any ideas or solutions to this problem
I'm getting concerned about Stu. Did he get locked up or is he deceased? I can come up with bail money, does anyone know? Stu, quit messing around and get back to work for crying out loud..........
Hey Stu, I hope you're doing ok. I miss your uploads but understand everyone needs a break once in a while.
Take care of yourself mate.
Yes I was wondering where Stu is I hope he is well and OK
Hey Stu,
Just touching base to see if everything is okay? Noticed it's been some time since you've uploaded. No doubt you're just up to your elbows in it! Love the content mate.
Great job painting those impact sockets. They look just like mine!
knowing him they probably are
I got all my impact sockets chrome plated.
Where do you get the silver paint?
I think the paint would have been a cheaper.
My wobbly head laughing, you make me very concern your completely idiot, very bad you use Chinese sockets on your rattle girl, ha ha joke joke
I would love to see you and Adrian build a Detroit powered, Thai long tail speedboat.
good idea
haven't seen your hands this clean in a long time
Happy New Year to you and Yours Stu. Hope everything is OK in your neck of the woods. Missing you and your stellar content. Best Wishes from the Old Country.
A video with Adrian is a good video!
I listened about 10 times and even put captions on and I still see/hear “time certain” when describing what looks like a threaded sleeve in one of the holes where a bolt sheared. Please put me out of my misery 🙏
Without a thermostat bypass coolant close to combustion will first boil before heat conducts to the thermostat. Due to steam expanding in the circuit, coolant is lost past the safety relief valve causing heat to increase before the thermostat opens. The bypass circuit is designed to pass just under the thermostat thermal bulb to rejoin the circuit down stream. The bypass allows all of the coolant to uniformly increase in temperature until the thermostat opens. Cheers
The last seconds of Adrian, is he questioning your “what tha ? CUT, nice editing dude
Hey Stu, Just checking on you making sure you're alright!
This project is brilliant. If the goal is to keep the characteristics of an outboard at the core of your solution, then my money says, it’s doomed to fail. Why? Because there are some major challenges that lie ahead. (Especially with a retrofit)
The existing outboard cooling method is too efficient to improve upon. An enclosed system, by design, Introduces inefficiencies that will transform its tiny footprint into a donkey and cart.
A current outboard is self contained, compact, almost portable (4 bolts); reliable, lightweight, efficient, and very cheap to manufacture, maintain, and operate. Flushing and impeller maintenance is all that is required to keep it functional. Fresh water use is best of course. May I be so bold as to say, there is no real problem to solve. ( or at least none to solve when operated correctly)
The following features afforded by a raw water system, give us the outboard motor as we know it. An enclosed system cannot utilise them.
1- tiny coolant capillaries and low surface area requirements of coolant/.material tho be cooked. (This is only possible because of a low pressure, fast coolant flow, and a low coolant temperature environment) This environment is the plat opposite of an enclosed system.
2. Raw water cooling in an outboard has a coolant lifecycle that is way more efficient than enclosed. It uses the unlimited raw water efficiently. If fact, it is too efficient and needs to continually uses thermostats, and poppet valves throughout the engines run cycle to raise the temperature of the cylinders to maintain optimal combustion conditions. (Cars do this type of temp management on startup only).
The raw water coolant lifecycle is as follows… Cold water in, water gets warmer through the power head, water becomes hot over the exhaust manifold then is expelled. The last stage of the coolant lifecycle (exhaust manifold )is where the outboard temperature is predominately managed. The coolant needs to be hot enough to not damage the manifold, therefore when it has passed through the manifold cooling stage, the coolant is too hot and the flow is now slow, free and lush. Then bye bye into the sea or lake it goes.
Good luck managing the coolant from here to cool it efficiently enough to pass back through to the first stage of an enclosed recirculated system. Here comes the next stage of complexity and cost.
All sockets are impact if you put them on your impact.
Exactly!
I like how not only have you painted your impact sockets to look like normal sockets, your safety glasses (necessary for the freak occurance of one of your impact sockets shattering) look just like normal glasses 😄
Adrian should start his own project, a Detroit powered outboard. 😂
doesn't he already have a boat called 'my mutt'? And you trust him with a second project?
I got a mammoot
With megaphone exhaust like the old school tower of power I6 mercs from the 60's!
How loud can you make a DD? VERY!
Happy new year Stu & Adrian and families.
So glad you got more dancing cats into your videos, greatly improved an otherwise pretty dull episode.
Sooo.. bugger that youtube thing, again? Anyways, wish you and Adrian a happy new year...
1:09 - I got a set of impact sockets just like those, they're great!
Nice to see the outboard content flowing :)
Great video! Looking forward to seeing the next episode as you progress with the conversion. Thanks
Just woke up and had not had my first sip of coffee. at 1:10 I did a double take. Thinking what did Stu just say? Then I cracked up. 1st good laugh of the day. Thank you for your subtle humor.
Hey mate, noticed you haven't posted any new videos for a while, hope everything is ok with you and looking forward to seeing some new vids soon👍
I was admiring the 2 band spear gun in the background. I put together 6 slingshots and made a slingshot crossbow with an old crossbow I had that the old bow limbs warped on. It actually shoots an arrow quite well and accurate, but may go to another level of band and try spear gun bands. If the kids don't share, blame the parents... Daffy.
Thanks mate, I quite like that one too. Needs a bit of a sand and oil though!
Love the bold experimentation
Hope all is well with you Stu. Been a bit which is unusual.
I can’t get anything else done once the cricket starts either Stu 👍
My dad had the idea of closed circuit cooling on big outboards using a heat exchanger built in to the cavitation plate so it would look a bit like the bolt on hydrofoil wings.
얼굴에 세월이 흐름을 느끼네요.
Very nice video
Hey Stu, no more Vids? Hope you are OK
Hey, it could also be cool to maybe start woth just having a variable controlled electronic pump thats external from the engine and see if performance can be improved
How are your Stuart haven’t seen any videos lately I hope you’re okay
Hey Stu, are you and Adrian both doing ok? I haven’t seen anything new from either of you for a very long time. I hope all is well with you and Happy New Year.
i think he is in sydney, he posted a photo of the opra house a couple of days ago
Hi Stuart are you still doing videos can’t seem to see what you are doing now , Hope you are okay Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia
At the end Daffy didn't give 2 bobs worth when Stu initiated a 'food redistribution program' lol
She didn't seem that interested in the equity system. ;)
Looks like you've got you work cut out. But you're on the right track. My old idea for heat was to run the leftover cooling water through a heater without modifying the outboard. But the closed system would definitely supply better heat.
Hi stu .
Hope all is well over there .worried that you haven't posted in awhile?
I like silver impact sockets - they look far better than the usual boring black ones....
All thermostats systems have a bypass to circulate the coolant.
Without a thermostat bypass coolant close to combustion will first boil before heat conducts to the thermostat. Due to steam expanding in the circuit, coolant is lost past the safety relief valve causing heat to increase before the thermostat opens. The bypass circuit is designed to pass just under the thermostat thermal bulb to rejoin the circuit down stream. The bypass allows all of the coolant to uniformly increase in temperature until the thermostat opens. Cheers
I also painted my impact sockets in chrome.
When Adrian stands next to Stu,Stu looks like a little outboard and Adrian looks like a big diesel!!!😂🤣🤣🤣
LOOKIN' GOOD, NICE WORK, KEEP SAFE
Thanks, you too!
Adrian: Well, hang on a minute...
Stu: We're going to say goodbye now.
R you on holiday stu? Missing ya vids.hope your ok.
Hi where have u been miss seeing your videos
Hi there dangar Stu
Great idea for a vid!!
Fuel float in tank failure not sending accurate info to Yamaha command link and perhaps what ohm reading is required by Yamaha gauges .
Also if you do this vid quite soon that would really help me cause that’s the problem I have at the moment - hahahah like your going to do a vid just for me - I’m dreaming!!
But hey if I work it out in the interim I can share info for others.
Love those silver painted impact sockets - look just like myn
Having a green coopers I noticed that the stool that is under/behind your elbow at 10:00 is exactly the same as a set I have (which I inherited from my grandparents, so probably dating from the 1960s) - have yours also had rats nibble away at the legs??
Nice thumbnail btw - how many coopers to get that to stop throbbing?
Ah, that was and onboard engine batch falling on it. The stools have survived so far but just about everything else gets eaten by the rats, particularly with chook food everywhere.
Hey kewl beans...I paint my impact sockets silver too!
Any more videos coming?
Another awesome video. Was thinking that if you are using temp control for the coolant pump, why don't you just get rid of the thermostat. The temp controlled pump is essentially doing the thermostats job.
Great point, well worth thinking about.
Where you at Stu!!! Long time no see!!
HI stu, Think you ended uploading vids when you were just on the hill top, missing the vids , hope your well and can re start .
On the rust removal, have you tried electrolysis?
Just need a battery charger and a baking soda solution.
Plenty of stull on YT on the details and it works very well.
Wow been wating for this for a while.
Daffy can be a mean old bird!
What a coincidence Stu , I have also painted my impact sockets silver 😂
For the multi-tube parallel flow grid cooler, if the end manifolds are not very flow symmetrical with respect to the cooler inlet and outlet lines you won't get equal flow through the individual cooler tubes. I have actually seen this cause overheating with two grid coolers piped in parallel flow. It's basically a low pressure flow system so small differences in resistance between the individual cooler lines make big differences in the flow through each individual cooler line. An oversized pump would develop enough pressure to make this a non-issue long as the manifolds were reasonably flow symmetrical.
Great information! The comment section here is definitely going to make the final design better. :)
I have sand in the cowling a lot these days & need a great reset
Nice vid Stu The CR2032 specs were interesting :)
Hi Stu, Could you use Transmission coolers possibly fixed under the water level on the back of the boat , to cool the outboard water via a pump and a few connections?? just a thought! hurt a bit! K)
Thank you Stu ;)
Hi... Been watching and been a fan of your sow for years... Love it...
I have a problem and hope you could help...
I have a Yamaha 2 stroke 3 cylinder 40 hp... My motor bogs down on low rpm and runs fine full throttle... Sometimes the motor loose power... If I throttle back to neutral and push throttle forward motor powers up with speed and then looses RPM after a few minutes...
I have replaced the fuel line... Cleaned carbs . cleaned all filters... cleaned fuel pump... Still have the same problem... Please help!
Try running a longer hose for cooling
Will you put a link to the TIG machine in the next video? I recently inherited a few welding machines, including a TIG that claims to have an AC function so it should do aluminium, but they're all the way down in Tasmania. I'm in Adelaide.
Will do, I'll be interested to see how it goes. Fingers crossed it isn't rubbish!
Is there a way to get ahold of Adrian. have some questions i wish to ask about my twin 8v71s on my boat!
Hey :) I’d really appreciate some help - my outboard water pump works perfectly in a bucket when span wjth a drill - it sprays out the tell tail, yet as soon as I run it with the engine going I don’t get any water through the tell tail. It must be something to do with exhaust gasses because I get a small amount of exhaust gas from the tell tail even! Very strange! It’s a 1977 Evinrude 35. 2 cylinder 2 stroke. Regardless of rpm, in gear or out it won’t pump water. With the drill spinning the crank and the plugs out to reduce compression it works flawlessly! Thanks so much in advance - Tom Western Australia.
Great video
Nice paint job on those sockets...lol
Hey so if the coolant pump is variable speed based on temperature why not just remove the thermostat entirely and let coolant flow through the engine, no air pockets no restrictions. Would allow for more control on temperature I’d presume.
Engines work best with a thermostat. This very true for diesel engines.
Interesting idea.Thanks for sharing.
🤔Keel-coolers are a great idea. Soak a dunked motor until you are ready to work on it.
Water can be pumped through/around heat exchangers in different ways, including electric pumps and forward motion. Manifolds can be built for precise control and actual use of the 'generated' heat as hydronic heat or hot water. Multiple outboards could generate - motion, electricity, and heat -which normally dissipates after cooling. A dry exhaust with headers would be awesome 🙂
Hot-Tub anyone ?
FWIW - electric pumps with pressure reduction and diversion valves - can deliver different pressures, send air back to the fuel tank and pre-prime the system before ignition. Very cool concept Dangar - so many possibilities - like heated seats 🙂
I have a 1988 evinrude 150 hp. The motor runs good at idle up to about halfway way to wot. Then it starts surging . I have shotgun blast parts at it, and the problem continues. I have replaced the stator, timeing switch, cdi, both power packs, new plugs, wires, and coils, replaced fuel lines, new fuel pump, rebuilt the carbs, and replaced the exhaust gasket between the mid section and powerhead. I have not replaced the limiter switch or the vacuum switch. At wide open, it feels like either a loss of spark or loss of fuel. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Stu, looking to move to a 4 stroke fwd control from my 90hp evinrude, in good order. Best way to price it and also recommendation on size of 4 star for 5.1 meters side console, not needing to drive at warp speed lol
I can not believe Adrian has not lifted your detroit deisel sign.
Still laughing about the socket set 😂
HA! I want the problem of having to buy new things... to make them look like old things... to make a youtube video. Lol. Great concept! ;-)
Great video Stu. I had a probably dumb question ( I don't know anything about engines) : But what is the need for the coolant thermostat? I.e. why couldn't the water just be always flowing regardless of temperature, surely there's no such thing as an cylinder\engine being "too cold"?
Just noticed you haven't posted for a while AND your Patreon is gone. Wondering is everything OK?
Fishing with John...
When you lay a small bit down on your workbench how long do you usually take to find it again lol :)
Your assuming I do actually find them! ;)
Interesting vlog Stu, if you're adding extra controls to regulate the cooling temp then can you dispense with the thermostat all together?
If we manage to get a pump with that capability we may well be able to.
Only prob water needs restrictions to keep water hard against block for heat transfer
Hey stu could it be possible to use say a seadoo closed loop cooling plate for cooling the coolant on the engine ?
So then on your connection to the radiator from the outboard you’ll use rubber heater hose for flexibility w/ quick connects as unions ?
Yes, some type of flexible hose.
IDK, Stu, I can't quite wrap my head around the idea of a circuit without a bypass. I would say, "check your work", but you're a clever lad, if it had been there, you'd have seen it. Is it possible that the little two-stroke builds heat so quickly that the thermostat opens before there's a chance for air to be separated from the cooling flow? Keeping in mind that, with the stock setup, raw water was circulating through the leg and exhaust, so pressure couldn't build up too much, prior to the thermostat opening?
Nice, thanks!
Make it like seadoo rotax engine .Open loop in the exhaust and close loop to the engine!!!
What kind of water pump are you going to use ?
The thermostat could have a leaky face on the bit that moves..
If you drill a hole .. a air bubble can block it.. even on car engines.. this is why there is a little bit of metal loose in it.. easiest option is do a slot so a bubble can't get lodged...
A car heater radiator is a possibility..
The multiple pipes of an exchanger.. reduce the flow speed as water (or air) moving too quick doesn't allow heat transfer...
Don't tell me you're selling out to big sponcers.we need a good dose of old Stu Adrian and the chickens!
Any socket becomes impact socket once it's on an impact wrench...
What welder did you get for under 500 bucks mate? Great vid as always
This one, but already gone up a lot www.ebay.com.au/itm/274070604283
Not a good idea perhaps to rub parts in certain ways unless chains with hooks on end shoot out
Stu, everyone concerned about you ! update please !
Did a post on the community page. New video soon!
@@DangarMarine Awesome !
I must have missed something, what’s the engine currently on the green Machine?
I sold the Green Machine about three years ago.
@@DangarMarine how I missed that I have no idea! I regularly watch your videos 😮
@@Logo800
Doh
Hi Yamaha owners... Just a question on a motor problem.
2 stroke 40 hp 3 cylinder
Auto lube.. with electric choke
Motor starts on the key with no problems... When I put the motor in gear the RPM rises very high ( out of water) Throttle not even halfway down... Driving under load ( in water) motor picks up speed quickly with no problems untill about 5 to 10 minutes driving and then looses power . Only way to get back on speed is to throttle down to neutral and push throttle back to original position when driving.
Things I already did..
1. Cleaned carbz
2. Replaced fuel line with new .
3. Cleaned out all fuel filters
4. Replaced fuel pump with a new one.
5. Did pressure test.. 120 psi
6. Replaced spark plugs with new ones
Any ideas or solutions to this problem
Clean out your gas tank or add one of the aditives that helps get rid of water in fuel, just my advice
“I didn’t actually film anything taking it apart. But the rebuild is just the opposite! I’m sure you’ll be fine.”
Thanks Stu.....Cheers mate 🍻🍺🍹🍸🍷🥂🍻🥵🤢🥴
Shoe🇺🇸
I'm getting concerned about Stu. Did he get locked up or is he deceased? I can come up with bail money, does anyone know? Stu, quit messing around and get back to work for crying out loud..........
No scrap aluminum hmm how bout stainless
if you dead short a new 2032 does it blow up
Well Stu is committed now. Red Dwarf will be without power now it the project/test is not completely successful.
No going back now! 😊