Being very slow and meticulous is always going to be more pumpy compared to using momentum to keep the time on the holds as low as possible. The question shouldnt be static vs dynamic, but to encourage reading the route as efficiently as possible. Sometimes it is better to be safe and lock off on a move, and sometimes it is better to be flowy and dynamic.
Agreed, best of both worlds is best, and knowing when to use which in each climbing situation is a skill, as well as having planned what method might be best before you start climbing. I think a general hesitantly in committing to moves and a single method has made me quite a slow climber, which means I'm often fairly inefficient!
Which brings out the good classic of repeating the same boulder both statically, then as "fast" as possible (could be dynamic, but could also just be fast) and then ultimately, putting together what worked best across the two attempts
It's definitely just two tools in the toolbox and sometimes you need the screwdriver, sometimes you need the hammer and other times you need that weird other thing at the bottom of the toolbox that's called a handjam. 😂
Something a good friend (and really knowledgeable climber overall) said that I found to be quite a nuanced and well-balanced opinion is that: while you'll always have your preferred style, learning to read/analyze what would be most benefical for a climb, adapting your style as needed, is a key element to learn and practice. Marrying that with how you like to climb being the hardest part.
I'm a beginner climber and just find such a grace in static climbing. Like it feels so meditative to climb in that way. That being said, Jonathan of course moves so beautifully in this.
Hope you enjoy this episode with Jonathan. It was a really fun one to film and I feel like Jonathan taught me a few things about being more flowy. Are you more of a Jon or more of a Hannah when you climb? 😊
I'm a Jon at heart, but climb more like Hannah in general 😄 Climbing more dynamically requires a little bit more confidence for me. I did my first two successful dynos couple of weeks ago so that was exciting!
Definitely a Hannah style climber. I always try moves statically first. I'm worried about injuries trying dynamic moves. Due to my age and the fact I can't afford to be off work
Definitively tending towards static, but I have worked really hard on being more dynamic and really starting to see some improvements in efficiency. Seemed like a good session. Jon's a lot of fun! 😊
I think it’d be really interesting to find out if the strength you have when you start climbing impacts your style later on. Like if you already have super strong fingers you might be more likely to trust those big moves and climb dynamically?
I'd guess the opposite. The power from most of dynamic climbing comes from the lower body. The actual power requirements for dynos done well, especially when we look at the the upper body, are lower than what's required for purely static climbing. I see that physically stronger beginners employ more dynamic movement yes, but that's usually less because of their physical strength and more because of a higher level of comfort with movement. I see prior athletes especially be more dynamic with their movements because they intuitively understand both that it will make the move easier and that they have the coordination required to stick it
Being a climber aiming towards outdoor climbing and thinking of the purest form of climbing as being free soloing (although I don't want to free solo myself) I tend to move towards static more but dynamic moves are quite interesting and efficient for gym climbing or to learn more about flow and body positioning
I like climbing with momentum and in the beginning I was forced to do so, because I'm short and wasn't very strong. Now I also like to climb statically and it feels great when I can do it, because it shows me how much stronger I've gotten. But man do I hate run ins and dynos with a passion 😅 I am just so bad at them, so for now I'm just letting them be for the most part. I'll start focusing on that at some point maybe. I'll try one a few times every once in a while, but I just cant motivate myself to keep trying, so I'll just do some crimpy slab instead or work on a different weakness. There's enough other things to learn. they also just scare the shit out of me.
hahaha I actually thought I wrote this. 😅😅 The stronger I get, I'm realizing that climbing purely statically requires a lot more strength sometimes! A lot more comfortable climbing dynamically when i'm roped up. I wished there were more boulder-type problems on the high walls at my gym.
Great video as usual, Hannah! I thought the green boulder was the most interesting contrast in the styles. In your more dynamic version, you reverted back to more static towards the top, and things got harder. Even just a little bit of extra momentum on those last moves would have helped you a lot.
Jonathan gives wicked Bruce Lee vibes like goddamn! The way he moves, the way he talks, his general approach, even how he holds himself. Dude really took the 'be like water' to heart.
different strengths are defiantly a factor like if you have more explosive power then using that power for more dynamic movement will benefit you more vs getting a heel up on something might help a less dynamic climber to do the same move the hardest part is knowing when to change to make the climb easier I tend to climb more static but I try to climb quick and decisive and sometimes doing a bigger move helps shorten the climb but then I go back to static cause it feels easier to me
I made use of momentum since my first time bouldering, but really staying flowy is a different ballgame. I can't read the climb ahead well enough so often I find myself pausing for a second or two to figure things out. That obviously kills the flow! Also, I don't mind taking a risk if I'd fall on the mat, but I don't fancy scraping my body against the wall as I fall down 😅 Otherwise, momentum saves energy, so dynamic is good!
Agreed, I think there's a misconception that dynamic climbing is all points off and flying around, and people think it's not their style, whereas moving with momentum, and blending speed and efficiency can look pretty different :)
I'm with team Hannah. I prefer being in my "safe zone" which is typically static. I do try to use momentum, but the security I agree is harder and momentum is more of a risk vs reward. Mixing the two is a great compromise and I'm working on it like Hannah.
I’m naturally quite dynamic because of a stronger upper body but always thought it was better to go slow and controlled so force myself to do that. Plus longer times on the wall / holds should make your grip stronger ?
Both are valid for different reasons! It's best to be able to do both but agreed, imo, longer time on the wall means greater endurance and lock-off strength :)
You know, I started to comment that I think a static style suits top rope or lead climbing a lot more, and have you tried it out? Then I looked through your videos a bit and found the one from 5 months ago with Lucy Keyworth. I guess if you got more into it you'd have to make a new channel called Hannah Morris Leading or something though, lol.
I love lead climbing. I don't go lead climbing that often, but I did recently do my first lead multi-pitch in Switzerland and made a video about that :)
@@timseytiger9280 I don't mind falling, especially in a gym there's not much danger even if you do... I still get scared sometimes but my sister and I have been climbing together for years now and we've built up a lot of trust. I try to just take a fall in a place that is a bit less scary and then work my way up to falling in the spot where I'm feeling too scared to take a fall. So the real issue with dynamic moves is actually that I feel a lot of the time that they are not as good for my endurance over a longer climb. Sometimes a more dynamic approach becomes necessary, but I usually find that as long as I get my positioning right and flow through the moves well, with static moves I can climb for much longer.
That flow at 4:19😝😝😝 It was so fun to climb together!! Welcome to the dark side that’s climbing climbing😈
🦘 thanks for joining me. Catch you when you’re next back in the U.K.
Being very slow and meticulous is always going to be more pumpy compared to using momentum to keep the time on the holds as low as possible. The question shouldnt be static vs dynamic, but to encourage reading the route as efficiently as possible. Sometimes it is better to be safe and lock off on a move, and sometimes it is better to be flowy and dynamic.
Agreed, best of both worlds is best, and knowing when to use which in each climbing situation is a skill, as well as having planned what method might be best before you start climbing. I think a general hesitantly in committing to moves and a single method has made me quite a slow climber, which means I'm often fairly inefficient!
Which brings out the good classic of repeating the same boulder both statically, then as "fast" as possible (could be dynamic, but could also just be fast) and then ultimately, putting together what worked best across the two attempts
It's definitely just two tools in the toolbox and sometimes you need the screwdriver, sometimes you need the hammer and other times you need that weird other thing at the bottom of the toolbox that's called a handjam. 😂
Something a good friend (and really knowledgeable climber overall) said that I found to be quite a nuanced and well-balanced opinion is that: while you'll always have your preferred style, learning to read/analyze what would be most benefical for a climb, adapting your style as needed, is a key element to learn and practice. Marrying that with how you like to climb being the hardest part.
I'm a beginner climber and just find such a grace in static climbing. Like it feels so meditative to climb in that way. That being said, Jonathan of course moves so beautifully in this.
Jonathan is such a movement wizard, but I do like my slow, steady, static moves
The flooow Jonathan had during the first boulder, with a limb always flying to get momentum 🤯
Hope you enjoy this episode with Jonathan. It was a really fun one to film and I feel like Jonathan taught me a few things about being more flowy.
Are you more of a Jon or more of a Hannah when you climb? 😊
Definitely a Hannah. 💪 Even if I know something is meant to be dynamic I try it statically and see if it works.😅
Hannah for sure! 😂
I'm a Jon at heart, but climb more like Hannah in general 😄 Climbing more dynamically requires a little bit more confidence for me. I did my first two successful dynos couple of weeks ago so that was exciting!
Whoooooooop, that's mega! I absolutely struggle with the commitment needed for faster, more complex dynamic movement :) @@SMS-ek9xd
Definitely a Hannah style climber. I always try moves statically first. I'm worried about injuries trying dynamic moves. Due to my age and the fact I can't afford to be off work
Definitively tending towards static, but I have worked really hard on being more dynamic and really starting to see some improvements in efficiency.
Seemed like a good session. Jon's a lot of fun! 😊
Good stuff! Similar experience myself & agreed, Jon is great vibes ☺️
the way jonathan falls is my favourite thing in the world, it is so cool!
I wholeheartedly agree
I think it’d be really interesting to find out if the strength you have when you start climbing impacts your style later on. Like if you already have super strong fingers you might be more likely to trust those big moves and climb dynamically?
Definitely! And also the style of setting most prevalent in the gym and how that influences style development! ☺️
I'd guess the opposite. The power from most of dynamic climbing comes from the lower body. The actual power requirements for dynos done well, especially when we look at the the upper body, are lower than what's required for purely static climbing. I see that physically stronger beginners employ more dynamic movement yes, but that's usually less because of their physical strength and more because of a higher level of comfort with movement. I see prior athletes especially be more dynamic with their movements because they intuitively understand both that it will make the move easier and that they have the coordination required to stick it
Being a climber aiming towards outdoor climbing and thinking of the purest form of climbing as being free soloing (although I don't want to free solo myself) I tend to move towards static more but dynamic moves are quite interesting and efficient for gym climbing or to learn more about flow and body positioning
I like climbing with momentum and in the beginning I was forced to do so, because I'm short and wasn't very strong. Now I also like to climb statically and it feels great when I can do it, because it shows me how much stronger I've gotten. But man do I hate run ins and dynos with a passion 😅 I am just so bad at them, so for now I'm just letting them be for the most part. I'll start focusing on that at some point maybe. I'll try one a few times every once in a while, but I just cant motivate myself to keep trying, so I'll just do some crimpy slab instead or work on a different weakness. There's enough other things to learn. they also just scare the shit out of me.
hahaha I actually thought I wrote this. 😅😅 The stronger I get, I'm realizing that climbing purely statically requires a lot more strength sometimes! A lot more comfortable climbing dynamically when i'm roped up. I wished there were more boulder-type problems on the high walls at my gym.
Great video as usual, Hannah! I thought the green boulder was the most interesting contrast in the styles. In your more dynamic version, you reverted back to more static towards the top, and things got harder. Even just a little bit of extra momentum on those last moves would have helped you a lot.
I totally agree! It was absolutely easier with a little bit more momentum. :)
Fuck yeah, Hannah! Good on ya for challenging your fears and going dynamic! Cheers!
I love Jonathan's T-shirt. Fingers crossed it will be restocked.
Super cool :)
where can I find it?
@@cleo__cleo9227 it’s out of stock at the moment but it’s a brand called Giri Giri ☺️
very educational, thank you :)
Makes me want to get more dynamic!
Me too! So much fun to watch and try to recreate Jonathan’s dynamic methods ☺️
same!
@Hannah, just want tell you, hands down, you were the best part of the latest BoulderingBob video 🤣👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻😘💨💋
Jonathan gives wicked Bruce Lee vibes like goddamn! The way he moves, the way he talks, his general approach, even how he holds himself. Dude really took the 'be like water' to heart.
Movement master! 🚀
the editing here 👌
Glad you liked it :)
different strengths are defiantly a factor like if you have more explosive power then using that power for more dynamic movement will benefit you more vs getting a heel up on something might help a less dynamic climber to do the same move the hardest part is knowing when to change to make the climb easier I tend to climb more static but I try to climb quick and decisive and sometimes doing a bigger move helps shorten the climb but then I go back to static cause it feels easier to me
A new Hannah video! 😃😃👌
Heeeeeyyy! Enjoy 🤞
@@hannahmorrisboulderingI will,💓
I made use of momentum since my first time bouldering, but really staying flowy is a different ballgame. I can't read the climb ahead well enough so often I find myself pausing for a second or two to figure things out. That obviously kills the flow!
Also, I don't mind taking a risk if I'd fall on the mat, but I don't fancy scraping my body against the wall as I fall down 😅
Otherwise, momentum saves energy, so dynamic is good!
Agreed, I think there's a misconception that dynamic climbing is all points off and flying around, and people think it's not their style, whereas moving with momentum, and blending speed and efficiency can look pretty different :)
Yeeees a new HMB vid 😁
I'm with team Hannah. I prefer being in my "safe zone" which is typically static. I do try to use momentum, but the security I agree is harder and momentum is more of a risk vs reward. Mixing the two is a great compromise and I'm working on it like Hannah.
cute Bolesławiec plates 😉
what a collab
Yeeeeeeee it was great to climb with Jonathan :)
yea, talked while doing some spray wall with him, i was in awe@@hannahmorrisbouldering
Seeing as I'm only 5ft I need to keep working on my dynos
I think lots of shorter climbers have an ace dynamic style 🚀☺️
I’m naturally quite dynamic because of a stronger upper body but always thought it was better to go slow and controlled so force myself to do that. Plus longer times on the wall / holds should make your grip stronger ?
Both are valid for different reasons! It's best to be able to do both but agreed, imo, longer time on the wall means greater endurance and lock-off strength :)
You know, I started to comment that I think a static style suits top rope or lead climbing a lot more, and have you tried it out? Then I looked through your videos a bit and found the one from 5 months ago with Lucy Keyworth. I guess if you got more into it you'd have to make a new channel called Hannah Morris Leading or something though, lol.
For me def. lead rope makes me way more static, but on top rope dynamic is fine as falls are not a worry.
I love lead climbing. I don't go lead climbing that often, but I did recently do my first lead multi-pitch in Switzerland and made a video about that :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Oh wow, where can I view this video? I'm looking through your videos and not finding it, am I blind?
@@joshuawhere it’s being released in the next couple of weeks! Our Red Bull Dual Ascent video ☺️
@@timseytiger9280 I don't mind falling, especially in a gym there's not much danger even if you do... I still get scared sometimes but my sister and I have been climbing together for years now and we've built up a lot of trust. I try to just take a fall in a place that is a bit less scary and then work my way up to falling in the spot where I'm feeling too scared to take a fall.
So the real issue with dynamic moves is actually that I feel a lot of the time that they are not as good for my endurance over a longer climb. Sometimes a more dynamic approach becomes necessary, but I usually find that as long as I get my positioning right and flow through the moves well, with static moves I can climb for much longer.
i think being more flowy is more fun, i dont want to look like a stickbug on the wall :)
I agree, it’s fun to try that way, even though it felt quite alien to me. I do like being a stick big through 🥲
😃😃
💥💥
Not Hannah wearing a rugne shirt
I’m working with them.
Talent on its peak outstanding Pakistanis are indeed extra ordinary