Hang on, a novel is coming. You can’t fit 8 years of ownership into one sentence. I have 146,000 on my 2015 F-150 Lariat FX4. NO oil consumption. No oil leaks. Original coils. Costco gas, 87 octane, switching to 93 during brutal Dallas summers-the engine will pull timing when it’s 110 out with 87, 93 makes life easier for it. I just put the third set of plugs in. I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance, changed between 5000-6000 miles. Big thumbs up for that cartridge oil filter up top, no more oiling my frame and driveway at every change. The truck runs just like it did the day I bought it new. I think good oil is a major factor in avoiding carbon buildup for the gen 1 with direct injection only. I’m a 429/460 V8 guy who has also had a string of Mustangs from Fox bodies to a 96 Cobra to my current garage queen 5.0 manual ragtop. A V6 with lawn mower sized pistons in a 5000 pound truck seemed all wrong. Until I drove it. It makes torque in the low and midrange like a big block. She stays in overdrive at 2100 rpm and 75 mph, flattening those I-40 grades near Flagstaff like it’s the middle of Kansas. Do I like it? I like it enough I’m adding a 2023 Bronco 2.7 to the stable. That’s the best thumbs up I can give.
Seems like you have had good luck with your truck. I’m in the market for a used truck and stumbled across a 2016 with the 2.7 at 160k miles. From what I’ve been seeing these 2.7’s are more reliable than the 3.5’s and it’s intrigued me into seriously considering ones. What’s your thoughts on buying a used one at that many miles for around $20k?
@@treethompson Strap in, you’re asking a big question involving a lot of money, and there is not going to be a bumper sticker sized answer. I’m not sure how much experience you have with mechanical things. I cut my teeth rebuilding go kart and motorcycle engines as a kid so most of this is second nature to me. Most people reading this are going to be in one or two categories: they’re either going to roll their eyes and say well of course, Captain obvious. That, or it’s all going to sound like I’m talking in a foreign language. $20,000 is a pile of money, and honestly the best thing you could do for yourself is to have a reputable shop check the vehicle out before any cash changes hands. If the seller isn’t willing to let you do that then maybe it’s time to find a different seller. If you can find a shop like The Car Wizard’s place in Kansas, that’s the kind of place you want to use. Back in the 80s when I first started playing around with fast cars my take on turbochargers was “twice as fast, half as long” I was all about big block V8 engines. And the turbo systems they had on cars back then were pretty awful. They didn’t even start using water cooled housings until the end of the 1980s, so shutting down your engine immediately after a long hard pull might just destroy the bearings in your turbo. That was just one of the issues you might’ve had to put up with back then. It’s a completely different world today. The oil is better. The metallurgy in the engine is better. The fuel delivery systems are far more advanced. But you still have to maintain the engine, and the biggest thing is to ignore the oil change interval that the computer suggests and just change it every 5000 miles or six months. It’s the cheapest insurance you will ever buy. Oil is like religion, so I’m not going to get into brand X Y Z except to say if the oil meets the very latest API service classifications for direct injection turbo charged gasoline engines it’s probably going to be a synthetic and if you keep it clean, you’ll be fine. With any rig at that mileage it’s all about how it was maintained. If you can get service records, that’s a huge plus. Although my truck wouldn’t show any oil changes, I do those myself. Still, at 160K I’d like to see at least one ATF change, and fluid swaps for the transfer case and differentials. Antifreeze, too. Those items are usually done by dealers so there should be records. You can get an idea about historical oil change intervals by pulling the dipstick and looking for varnish up above the oil level. The stick should be clean. If it is shiny/brand new? Someone might have cleaned it, so just use your judgement. You can also shine a flashlight inside the oil filler tube, and have a look at at least a little bit of what the cam and chains look like. If every part you see has a brownish coating on it, the engine has not been serviced regularly. 2016 still had single direct injection so there could be carbon buildup issues. I’ve never had problems with mine, but I’ve always kept clean synthetic oil in it, which helps because the synthetic oil stands up to more heat before it starts breaking down. What happens is blowby and your pcv system send a fine mist of oil past your intake valves. If the oil breaks down, you end up with a nasty coating of carbon on the valve stems, and the the ports of your intake system. Your giveaway here is a rough idle, especially after a cold start. That seems to be when the cylinder imbalance caused by severe carbon buildup is most likely to show. My engine has a little bit of a rough idle from stone cold, certainly not enough to classify as a misfire, and after the first couple of blocks of driving it smoothes out nicely. It’s behaved this way since new, so I’m calling it the nature of the beast. Gen II 2.7 and 3.5 both get direct plus port injection, which eliminates the carbon issues once and for all. For the rest of us, good synthetic oil changed 5000-6000 miles goes a long way. Good luck and if you don’t remember anything else out of this novel I just dictated, remember this: look for signs of regular oil changes and have a reputable shop check her out before you sign anything.
@@F9FCJ429 i appreciate the novel! Everything you said makes sense. The one I was thinking of looking at sold so I’m still on the hunt. We’ll see what happens
The 2.7 is probably one of the most bulletproof modern boosted engines you can buy. I just replaced the plugs and had to replace my coil pack on cylinder #5. But other than normal maintenance, mine has been great so far at 123k!
Is that your first replacement of plugs? I have heard some folks replace at 60k some at 90k, some well over 100k. Just wondering when I should start thinking of replacing mine
@@Foxbody302 well that’s good to know, thanks. What was the condition of them , decent yet or quite used up? I’ve got a ways to go then with my 2.7 having 29xxx mi
@@Optimistprime. I get around 19 mpg city , 22+ combined. 2018 2.7 supercrew 3.55 gear. Took it on a 3000mi trip last spring , got anywhere from 22.5 to 26 mpg, all speeds were 75 to 82 mph. Mpg was hand calculated because the dash mpg isn’t always correct. I’m extremely happy with it, it’s only had the oil changed every 4000 mi, no other service work done
I have a used 2019 with the 2.7. It has 108k miles on it. Regular maintenance both by me and the prior owner. 100kmi full service and it runs and drives like a new one that I test drove. I second the 19-20 mpg city (rural stop and go) and 23+ mpg on the highway depending on how I drive it, which isn’t slow. I plan on continuing the 5000-6000mi oil changes as opposed to the 10k intervals that I think they recommend. This is coming from a V8 die hard. My old 4.6 was reliable but had no where near the power. The low end torque makes me giggle every time.
I had a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 turbo and it was awesome...i drove from louisville KY to Erie Pa with 1 tank of gas and i was driving 85-90 MPH great times
I have a 2020. To date have never put a penny in the truck. Fun to drive, 25 plus mpg. Will buy another on without a doubt. And so far has not burned a drop of oil.
I had some serious concerns about the reliability of these engines but after listening to mechanics they say they’re really reliable and rarely see them.
25k miles on my 2018 2.7 with 33s and a lift. No issues so far and I run it hard going off road on weekends and city commuting every day. My only complaint is with the clunky 10 speed transmission that it’s paired with. the trans slips often when accelerating from a slower speed and just feels wacky sometimes. But the engine in my opinion is the most solid choice for a turbo engine in today’s market. 2024 update: almost 40k miles and not a single issue with the truck. Moved from California to GA loaded down heavy and it performed like a champ.
@@AC313_ FORScan Brings up a menu. Disable transmission adaptive learning. Plug in underneath dashboard. Steering column. First couple hundred miles after reset it learns your driving habits. No more clunking etcetera
I didn't watch the whole video, but I've owned two Fords with this engine: a Fusion Sport, and an F150. From what I remember, this engine was built from the get-go for turbocharging, and it's less problematic than the 3.5 Ecoboost. I had bigger intercoolers and tunes on both those vehicles, and they ran great, and got pretty good mpg, all things considered. I also added oil catch cans, to help keep the intake system cleaner. Neither vehicle accumulated much in the can, certainly nowhere near as much as the 3.6 Pentastar engine in a Jeep Gladiator Rubicon I used to have.
Are you sure you would call it reliable? I am just so confused on which engine to get, too many people say stay away from any of the eco-boost and get the V8. Well, the newer 10 speed trans for the 5.0 is having all kinds of problems with the transmission.
@@bcw686 When I was shopping around for a full-size truck, I initially wanted to get a Ram. But when I found out their "auto start/stop" feature was shutting half the engine off, I looked elsewhere, which led me to the F150. I don't haul or tow anything on a regular basis, so the 2.7 EB was fine for how I drove the truck. From what I can tell, the 2.7 EB is a lot less problematic than the 3.5 EB, but mechanics prefer the 5.0 because of its simplicity.
@@bronzestarvue the 5.0 is not known for simplicity anymore. And the start/stop feature you spoke of has nothing to do with having half of the engine shut off. The start /stop just turns the whole engine off then restarts it after like sitting at a stoplight. The 5.0 has MDS now, multiple displacement system, and that does shut down 1/2 the pistons when driving, another reason to stay away from the 5.0,,, among other problems .
@@bronzestarvue the auto start/stop feature has nothing to do with the cylinder deactivation feature. It just shuts the engine off at a stoplight, then restarts when the foot lifts off the brake. The cylinder deactivation has been problematic for Ram and Chevy and now ford has it on the 5.0. So it’s not a “simple” v8 anymore with with that feature, the wet belt oil pump, and variable valve timing. Time will tell whether it will last a long time
That's great to hear! Installing an oil catch can is a smart preventative measure to help reduce the amount of oil that can build up on the valves over time.
95k on my 2019 2.7 F150 4x4. Bought new December 2019 back when Ford gave great rebates! Oil change every 5k miles, first 10 oil changes had BG products every oil change at dealership and now I do it every other oil change myself using Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30. Tranny flushed at Ford every 30k miles; I change out the spark plugs every 30k miles myself (peace of mind). Coolant flush and front differential fluid every 50k. Rear differential and transfer case fluid change every 30k miles. New engine and cabin air filter every 10k. Still drives as good as it did new with 95k miles on it. Planning to see if I can hit 300k miles on motor 🤙🏻. Did have to replace the throttle body at 47k miles but that was shortly after it was clean and I don’t think the position was reset correctly. New one onto $116 at local ford dealership so I just replaced it. Really is a remarkable engine. Pulled a 7k 36.5ft camper with it and hauled a 5x10 dump trailer up a 8 degree dirt road at local dump pulling 9k lb (weight station clocked truck and trailer at over 14k lb. Extremely impressed.
They aren’t bad at all. Nothing major needs done,. 3/8” drive with swivel on 6” extension takes care of the back plugs. All done including clean up within 1 hour comfortably.
I’m wondering the same thing. On the first gen 2.7 absolutely yes. The newer 2.7 made from 2018 on however has both port injection and direct injection so I’d imagine that would help alleviate the oil on the valves in turn reducing carbon buildup.
I would put a catch can on any forced-induction engine (turbo or supercharged), or one that has any form of direct injection. I did mine on a '23 Toyota 4runner for about $30. The kits made for specific engines are more expensive, but they're usually designed to be plug and play, so very easy to install. One could certainly spend money on worse things for their vehicle...
2015 owner. 144,00o mi. Regular oil changes and trany flush. Original spark plugs. Only 2 issues, the leaky plastic oil pan was replaced. The windshield sprayer freezes at hint of 32 temnps. How is that not a safety recall? Next one will be a 5.0
Maybe buy some better quality windshield washer fluid for starters. If it’s freezing that’s not fords fault. With getting a 5.0 next time, get a fresh credit card also, you will need it, it will get used often
@@paulhunter9613 I use the purple -32 degrees stuff. It was a Ford thing the hose is too small diameter i was told. There was a service bulletin put out for it.
Yes. The 2.7 is essentially the same in all of fords applications. Depending on 1st or 2nd generation. 2018 and up 2.7’s have port injection with fuel injection to help with blow by.
My 2016 has 105k miles with the stock plugs and coils. My last oil change was 8500 miles and I didn’t add any oil. Maybe I’m having great luck because only I change the oil and I only use Motorcraft. My mpg is the same as new and my engine has never stalled.
Another long comment here - bear with me...I own 2017 Ford Fusion Sport with a Gen-1 2.7. There was a brief run of early gen 1's that slipped by QC and had head gasket issues. For the most part, the unlucky owners of those few had that dealt with under warranty, but there may still be some out there in the wild. There is also a TSB out on faulty plastic oil pans and valve covers leaking. It's a very common issue, but if you have any kind of warranty, factory or aftermarket, the cost should be covered. I personally dealt with this recently. Make sure your mechanic does it right. My car was taken to the dealer where they broke the upper intake manifold and some other stuff - needless to say, I'm NEVER trusting them again... The valve cover gasket was also failing internally, I think, causing oil to leak into the spark plug well and interrupt ignition, causing misfires. Aside from that, I've had no major engine issues. I bought it with about 20k miles roughly 4 years ago and now I'm coming up on 140k. One thing to consider, in my case, is that my car is a work vehicle that's been pushed hard quite a few times, and has spent thousands of hours idling. It's *definitely* put in some work. That said, I've stayed on top of all maintenence the entire time I've owned it. Regular air filter changes (engine and cabin), coolant changes, transmission services, spark plugs, throttle body cleaning and decarb service, 5k mile oil change intervals, and ONLY 93 octane during my entire ownership. I've yet to make any exceptions regarding fuel, although if I ever drive it out West, where the highest octane is 91 in a lot of places, I'll have to compromise. I also clean and detail it when i can, but i live in the heart of the Rust Belt, so it's only a matter of time until the rust gets it. But I plan on keeping it on the road until that day comes.
I have a 2016 f-150 with a 2.7 motor 107,000 miles started smelling antifreeze it was leaking into the head and burning the antifreeze it was not a head gasket eventually the motor was shot got a used motor only 40,000 on it 3 year warranty smoked the entire time and was also using antifreeze with in 2 months I had all the same issues as the first time no clue what to do now get another motor and deal with it again
Looking at getting this 2021 F-150 2.7L ecoboost with 73000kms. I’m getting mixed reviews for its reliability and longevity. Does anyone have first hand experience with the second gen 2.7?
Perhaps he used a pic of some other engine to try a prove a point. Just like he said excessive oil consumption, that’s bull💩, I’ve never heard anyone make that claim unless you had a 5.0@@hmdwn
I thought the 2017 ford Fusion sport with the twin turbo 2.7L v6 awd was cool but I like the 3.5L v6 I think it’s super powerful but I don’t know which one I should be looking for
Partly agree. Higher octane fuel is designed to resist detonation or "knocking" in high-performance engines that have higher compression ratios or turbocharging. It is not necessarily cleaner-burning than regular gasoline. Some fuel manufacturers do add detergents to higher octane fuels that can help keep engine components clean and reduce emissions. Additionally, some higher-end gasoline formulations, such as "Top Tier" gasoline, may contain fewer impurities and contaminants, which can lead to cleaner burning and reduced engine deposits.
If you think you need to run premium in this 2.7 daily you are wrong. If that’s the case then a 5.0 with 12.5 factory compression ratio would require premium all the time, and it doesn’t need that at all@@carproblemsmax
@@surroundedbyjaggoffs and top tier gas has more detergents in it, to be called top tier it has a set of standards it must pass unlike any other brand of gasoline
premium gas ............have u checked the price diff thats a deal breaker no wonder I see so many used 2.7L on my local lot this is a $35k truck i'll wait my 04 f150 4.6L. only has 77k miles still hauls my bass boat just fine ....for now
A healthy 4.6 is as good as anything if you're not looking at $$$. Expected issues on the 4.6 2v aren't so bad with proper care. However, if I did go newer I would get a 2.7 and treat it well (like the 4.6 and also 5.4 2v, Not 3valve. I've had a couple of 5.4 2v and they are smooth and quiet, and with proper care 250,000+ miles is achievable. We'll have to wait for 15 more years to find out how these EBs turn out, but for me an older 10th generation (1997-2003) 5.4/4.6 is just fine...IF TAKEN CARE OF.
I would have developed a high compression, dual injection 2.7 litre 4 cylinder, developing around bhp/torque 200/200 with an advanced EGR system for emissions and a similarly engineered 4.0 litre inline 6 cylinder, developing about 320/300 with an emphasis on simplicity, durability and reliability not engine stalling, oil dripping and carbon build up. Turbocharging is not the answer to everything.
Ford lost 5 billion in warranty work in 2021-2022. Couldn't find the 2023 numbers. But thats why your truck cost 60-70k, because they ain't giving up 5 billion. Your paying for it.
2018 2.7 EcoBoost or newer have duel injectors, 1 direct injector and 1 port injector per cylinder, this eliminates the carbon buildup,check your facts before making a video.
You guys lost me when in the 3.5 video you said it was designed to replace the Coyote. The Coyote didn't exist in 07. Also you missed the 2.7's biggest flaw. That's the rubber oil pump belt. The belt is wet and degrades over time clogging the oil pick up.
@JulianoGSF it depends on what you're looking for. In my opinion, the eco-boost motors have been vetted out pretty well. But if you want 200K miles plus, stick with a 3.7 for cars and definitely a Coyote for the trucks.
@@JulianoGSF the five oh has the cold startup death rattle, high oil consumption, has a “tick” when warm, and has Mds which if is like GM and Ram will destroy the engine. And it has no low end torque to tow things like a truck should have
Sounds like a total pos ford does make one good engine but you can’t get it in a F150 . The 7.3 liter Godzilla now I can get behind that! No over head cams 2 valves per cylinder no turbo other than that I wouldn’t waste my money on on a Ford
Please people don't waste your money on American junk because they are nothing but problems. The only thing American cars are #1 on is technology but will give you a lot of problems down the road. Save your money and get you a Toyota that will last you a long time and will it worth more than any other makes.
I compared the 2024 Ranger Lariat 2.7 to the 2024 Tacoma Limited. All things considered, the Ranger is a far better truck. People have different opinions. I put down a $1,000 deposit and ordered the Ranger 4 days ago.
My Ford Taurus with the 3.5 V6 is 14 years old and the only two things replaced under the hood was a 02 sensor and high-pressure power steering hose. Very reliable vehicle, purrs like a kitten still today. Now my E150 at 280k miles had only two problems under the hood, which was an alternator and HVAC fan which I did my self around 100 dollars each to repair and that was after 210k miles. Great vehicle too! People want to rip Ford, but they done good with me.
@Chieftain357 You likely have one out of a million trucks that was built correctly by Ford. Not one person I know is happy with their new EcoBoost trucks. The Ford diesel is nothing but trouble. I think Ford builds them with problems so people will buy new trucks every two years. This is why they build them with the latest technology and fully equip them every two years. But the engine and transmission are trash.
Trash. Drives like a honda with real lag. Sounds like a honda. Dressed up like a truck. Perfect soy boi dress up truck. Biggest regret of my life time buying this 2.7 garbage. Miss my V8 power.
It's throwing money in a hole on this engine what's out more emissions cost more to even drive down the road speed down the road a couple times and then spend more time in the shop piece of junk
Hang on, a novel is coming. You can’t fit 8 years of ownership into one sentence. I have 146,000 on my 2015 F-150 Lariat FX4. NO oil consumption. No oil leaks. Original coils. Costco gas, 87 octane, switching to 93 during brutal Dallas summers-the engine will pull timing when it’s 110 out with 87, 93 makes life easier for it. I just put the third set of plugs in. I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance, changed between 5000-6000 miles. Big thumbs up for that cartridge oil filter up top, no more oiling my frame and driveway at every change. The truck runs just like it did the day I bought it new. I think good oil is a major factor in avoiding carbon buildup for the gen 1 with direct injection only. I’m a 429/460 V8 guy who has also had a string of Mustangs from Fox bodies to a 96 Cobra to my current garage queen 5.0 manual ragtop. A V6 with lawn mower sized pistons in a 5000 pound truck seemed all wrong. Until I drove it. It makes torque in the low and midrange like a big block. She stays in overdrive at 2100 rpm and 75 mph, flattening those I-40 grades near Flagstaff like it’s the middle of Kansas. Do I like it? I like it enough I’m adding a 2023 Bronco 2.7 to the stable. That’s the best thumbs up I can give.
Seems like you have had good luck with your truck. I’m in the market for a used truck and stumbled across a 2016 with the 2.7 at 160k miles. From what I’ve been seeing these 2.7’s are more reliable than the 3.5’s and it’s intrigued me into seriously considering ones. What’s your thoughts on buying a used one at that many miles for around $20k?
@@treethompson Strap in, you’re asking a big question involving a lot of money, and there is not going to be a bumper sticker sized answer. I’m not sure how much experience you have with mechanical things. I cut my teeth rebuilding go kart and motorcycle engines as a kid so most of this is second nature to me. Most people reading this are going to be in one or two categories: they’re either going to roll their eyes and say well of course, Captain obvious. That, or it’s all going to sound like I’m talking in a foreign language. $20,000 is a pile of money, and honestly the best thing you could do for yourself is to have a reputable shop check the vehicle out before any cash changes hands. If the seller isn’t willing to let you do that then maybe it’s time to find a different seller. If you can find a shop like The Car Wizard’s place in Kansas, that’s the kind of place you want to use.
Back in the 80s when I first started playing around with fast cars my take on turbochargers was “twice as fast, half as long” I was all about big block V8 engines. And the turbo systems they had on cars back then were pretty awful. They didn’t even start using water cooled housings until the end of the 1980s, so shutting down your engine immediately after a long hard pull might just destroy the bearings in your turbo. That was just one of the issues you might’ve had to put up with back then. It’s a completely different world today. The oil is better. The metallurgy in the engine is better. The fuel delivery systems are far more advanced. But you still have to maintain the engine, and the biggest thing is to ignore the oil change interval that the computer suggests and just change it every 5000 miles or six months. It’s the cheapest insurance you will ever buy. Oil is like religion, so I’m not going to get into brand X Y Z except to say if the oil meets the very latest API service classifications for direct injection turbo charged gasoline engines it’s probably going to be a synthetic and if you keep it clean, you’ll be fine.
With any rig at that mileage it’s all about how it was maintained. If you can get service records, that’s a huge plus. Although my truck wouldn’t show any oil changes, I do those myself. Still, at 160K I’d like to see at least one ATF change, and fluid swaps for the transfer case and differentials. Antifreeze, too. Those items are usually done by dealers so there should be records.
You can get an idea about historical oil change intervals by pulling the dipstick and looking for varnish up above the oil level. The stick should be clean. If it is shiny/brand new? Someone might have cleaned it, so just use your judgement. You can also shine a flashlight inside the oil filler tube, and have a look at at least a little bit of what the cam and chains look like. If every part you see has a brownish coating on it, the engine has not been serviced regularly. 2016 still had single direct injection so there could be carbon buildup issues. I’ve never had problems with mine, but I’ve always kept clean synthetic oil in it, which helps because the synthetic oil stands up to more heat before it starts breaking down. What happens is blowby and your pcv system send a fine mist of oil past your intake valves. If the oil breaks down, you end up with a nasty coating of carbon on the valve stems, and the the ports of your intake system. Your giveaway here is a rough idle, especially after a cold start. That seems to be when the cylinder imbalance caused by severe carbon buildup is most likely to show. My engine has a little bit of a rough idle from stone cold, certainly not enough to classify as a misfire, and after the first couple of blocks of driving it smoothes out nicely. It’s behaved this way since new, so I’m calling it the nature of the beast. Gen II 2.7 and 3.5 both get direct plus port injection, which eliminates the carbon issues once and for all. For the rest of us, good synthetic oil changed 5000-6000 miles goes a long way. Good luck and if you don’t remember anything else out of this novel I just dictated, remember this: look for signs of regular oil changes and have a reputable shop check her out before you sign anything.
@@F9FCJ429 i appreciate the novel! Everything you said makes sense. The one I was thinking of looking at sold so I’m still on the hunt. We’ll see what happens
God dam That's a hell of a testimony.
My 2.7 has been fantastic.
E
2016 2.7 236k miles. No issues at all. Neighbor works at small ford dealer says he does at least 3.5 teardowns a month and has never done a 2.7.
The 2.7 is probably one of the most bulletproof modern boosted engines you can buy. I just replaced the plugs and had to replace my coil pack on cylinder #5. But other than normal maintenance, mine has been great so far at 123k!
Is that your first replacement of plugs? I have heard some folks replace at 60k some at 90k, some well over 100k. Just wondering when I should start thinking of replacing mine
@@paulhunter9613 Yeah, that was my first time replacing the plugs since I got mine at 65k.
@@Foxbody302 well that’s good to know, thanks. What was the condition of them , decent yet or quite used up? I’ve got a ways to go then with my 2.7 having 29xxx mi
@@paulhunter9613 they didn’t look too bad, but they looked like they had some mileage.
@@Foxbody302 👍
Have a 2015 2.7 in a F150. 140k miles and not a single problem, might be most reliable engine I have had in a truck.
Same as my 2016.
Have a 2019 f 150 with 2.7 love this engine. Truck runs great,fast and fun to drive
How's the fuel mileage?
@@Optimistprime. I get around 19 mpg city , 22+ combined. 2018 2.7 supercrew 3.55 gear. Took it on a 3000mi trip last spring , got anywhere from 22.5 to 26 mpg, all speeds were 75 to 82 mph. Mpg was hand calculated because the dash mpg isn’t always correct. I’m extremely happy with it, it’s only had the oil changed every 4000 mi, no other service work done
I have a used 2019 with the 2.7. It has 108k miles on it. Regular maintenance both by me and the prior owner. 100kmi full service and it runs and drives like a new one that I test drove. I second the 19-20 mpg city (rural stop and go) and 23+ mpg on the highway depending on how I drive it, which isn’t slow. I plan on continuing the 5000-6000mi oil changes as opposed to the 10k intervals that I think they recommend.
This is coming from a V8 die hard. My old 4.6 was reliable but had no where near the power. The low end torque makes me giggle every time.
I had a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 turbo and it was awesome...i drove from louisville KY to Erie Pa with 1 tank of gas and i was driving 85-90 MPH great times
I have a 2020. To date have never put a penny in the truck. Fun to drive, 25 plus mpg. Will buy another on without a doubt. And so far has not burned a drop of oil.
25 mpg in the city or highway? Also, how’s the fuel economy in the snow?
I had some serious concerns about the reliability of these engines but after listening to mechanics they say they’re really reliable and rarely see them.
The intake carbon issue was dealt with by adding a second fuel injector to each cylinder.
Hi Don! What year 2.7 was this added? I have a 2015 F-150 2.7 ecoboost and thinking about adding an oil catch can.
@@robertclymer6948 It was added with the 2018 F-150.
25k miles on my 2018 2.7 with 33s and a lift. No issues so far and I run it hard going off road on weekends and city commuting every day. My only complaint is with the clunky 10 speed transmission that it’s paired with. the trans slips often when accelerating from a slower speed and just feels wacky sometimes. But the engine in my opinion is the most solid choice for a turbo engine in today’s market.
2024 update: almost 40k miles and not a single issue with the truck. Moved from California to GA loaded down heavy and it performed like a champ.
Supposedly, having the dealership disable the learning makes a big improvement in transmission performance.
You can buy a Cheap scan tool. 25 bucks. It solved my 10 speed issues
@@MacGregor. which scan tool? how did it clear up issues?
@@AC313_ FORScan Brings up a menu. Disable transmission adaptive learning.
Plug in underneath dashboard. Steering column. First couple hundred miles after reset it learns your driving habits. No more clunking etcetera
Glad my 2015 come with the 6 speed. So far so good. I think the 10 speed is over kill personally.
I didn't watch the whole video, but I've owned two Fords with this engine: a Fusion Sport, and an F150. From what I remember, this engine was built from the get-go for turbocharging, and it's less problematic than the 3.5 Ecoboost. I had bigger intercoolers and tunes on both those vehicles, and they ran great, and got pretty good mpg, all things considered. I also added oil catch cans, to help keep the intake system cleaner. Neither vehicle accumulated much in the can, certainly nowhere near as much as the 3.6 Pentastar engine in a Jeep Gladiator Rubicon I used to have.
Are you sure you would call it reliable? I am just so confused on which engine to get, too many people say stay away from any of the eco-boost and get the V8. Well, the newer 10 speed trans for the 5.0 is having all kinds of problems with the transmission.
@@bcw686 When I was shopping around for a full-size truck, I initially wanted to get a Ram. But when I found out their "auto start/stop" feature was shutting half the engine off, I looked elsewhere, which led me to the F150. I don't haul or tow anything on a regular basis, so the 2.7 EB was fine for how I drove the truck. From what I can tell, the 2.7 EB is a lot less problematic than the 3.5 EB, but mechanics prefer the 5.0 because of its simplicity.
oh ok, that makes more sense, thanks@@bronzestarvue
@@bronzestarvue the 5.0 is not known for simplicity anymore. And the start/stop feature you spoke of has nothing to do with having half of the engine shut off. The start /stop just turns the whole engine off then restarts it after like sitting at a stoplight.
The 5.0 has MDS now, multiple displacement system, and that does shut down 1/2 the pistons when driving, another reason to stay away from the 5.0,,, among other problems .
@@bronzestarvue the auto start/stop feature has nothing to do with the cylinder deactivation feature. It just shuts the engine off at a stoplight, then restarts when the foot lifts off the brake.
The cylinder deactivation has been problematic for Ram and Chevy and now ford has it on the 5.0. So it’s not a “simple” v8 anymore with with that feature, the wet belt oil pump, and variable valve timing. Time will tell whether it will last a long time
Hold the Buss > > > don't the later 2.7's have direct and port injection stopping the gunk build-up on the intake valves?
The direct and port don't function at the same time. It uses one at a time, based on what's going on. It cuts down the carbon buildup roughly by half.
Yes.
@@bradh6185 or it doesn’t let the carbon build up at all…
I have a 2018 2.7 ecoboost with 94,000+ miles so far no problems. I did do the oil catch can so that should help with the oil on the valves
That's great to hear! Installing an oil catch can is a smart preventative measure to help reduce the amount of oil that can build up on the valves over time.
They do say with the dual injection with 2018 and up you don’t need a catch can.
So have you checked the catch can to see if there is any oil in it?
My 2017 XLT 52K with a catch can has been bullet proof.
Hi Dr. What brand catch can did you go with and would recommend. Thanks!!!
@@robertclymer6948 I got an Amazon catch can, it has been doing it's job for four years.
My 18 has 150k. I will only own the 2.7 from now on. Change oil early. Never any trouble.
Regular oil change is the key and the right oil
95k on my 2019 2.7 F150 4x4. Bought new December 2019 back when Ford gave great rebates! Oil change every 5k miles, first 10 oil changes had BG products every oil change at dealership and now I do it every other oil change myself using Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30. Tranny flushed at Ford every 30k miles; I change out the spark plugs every 30k miles myself (peace of mind). Coolant flush and front differential fluid every 50k. Rear differential and transfer case fluid change every 30k miles. New engine and cabin air filter every 10k. Still drives as good as it did new with 95k miles on it. Planning to see if I can hit 300k miles on motor 🤙🏻. Did have to replace the throttle body at 47k miles but that was shortly after it was clean and I don’t think the position was reset correctly. New one onto $116 at local ford dealership so I just replaced it. Really is a remarkable engine. Pulled a 7k 36.5ft camper with it and hauled a 5x10 dump trailer up a 8 degree dirt road at local dump pulling 9k lb (weight station clocked truck and trailer at over 14k lb. Extremely impressed.
Hi Zach, how tough was it changing those plugs, man those back cylinders look like a bitch to do. Thanks Bro.
They aren’t bad at all. Nothing major needs done,. 3/8” drive with swivel on 6” extension takes care of the back plugs. All done including clean up within 1 hour comfortably.
Is a catch can beneficial to a 2.7 2018 Ford F 150 with a 10 speed trans?
How about on a 2020 2.7 F 150?
I’m wondering the same thing. On the first gen 2.7 absolutely yes. The newer 2.7 made from 2018 on however has both port injection and direct injection so I’d imagine that would help alleviate the oil on the valves in turn reducing carbon buildup.
I would put a catch can on any forced-induction engine (turbo or supercharged), or one that has any form of direct injection. I did mine on a '23 Toyota 4runner for about $30. The kits made for specific engines are more expensive, but they're usually designed to be plug and play, so very easy to install. One could certainly spend money on worse things for their vehicle...
2015 owner. 144,00o mi. Regular oil changes and trany flush. Original spark plugs. Only 2 issues, the leaky plastic oil pan was replaced. The windshield sprayer freezes at hint of 32 temnps. How is that not a safety recall? Next one will be a 5.0
Maybe buy some better quality windshield washer fluid for starters. If it’s freezing that’s not fords fault.
With getting a 5.0 next time, get a fresh credit card also, you will need it, it will get used often
@@paulhunter9613 I use the purple -32 degrees stuff. It was a Ford thing the hose is too small diameter i was told. There was a service bulletin put out for it.
@@ctfan1486 but it works just fine in warm weather, then “freezes up “ in winter,,, hmmn
It’s water in the check valve under the cowl on the passenger side. Drill it out and forget about it.
2.7L has the rubber oil wet belt inside the engine. Any had issues with that?
15-17 have a Chain, after that all have wet belt
@@theodorecarbajal2975 Thanks that is good to know
Are these comments true for the 2.7 in the Edge as well?
Yes. The 2.7 is essentially the same in all of fords applications. Depending on 1st or 2nd generation. 2018 and up 2.7’s have port injection with fuel injection to help with blow by.
@@Boosted304My 2018 2.7 T MKX does not have duel point injection. So it seems to be only the f150's that got the change to 2nd gen
"F-One Hundred Fifty" 🤔😆
My 2016 has 105k miles with the stock plugs and coils. My last oil change was 8500 miles and I didn’t add any oil. Maybe I’m having great luck because only I change the oil and I only use Motorcraft. My mpg is the same as new and my engine has never stalled.
Another long comment here - bear with me...I own 2017 Ford Fusion Sport with a Gen-1 2.7. There was a brief run of early gen 1's that slipped by QC and had head gasket issues. For the most part, the unlucky owners of those few had that dealt with under warranty, but there may still be some out there in the wild. There is also a TSB out on faulty plastic oil pans and valve covers leaking. It's a very common issue, but if you have any kind of warranty, factory or aftermarket, the cost should be covered. I personally dealt with this recently. Make sure your mechanic does it right. My car was taken to the dealer where they broke the upper intake manifold and some other stuff - needless to say, I'm NEVER trusting them again... The valve cover gasket was also failing internally, I think, causing oil to leak into the spark plug well and interrupt ignition, causing misfires. Aside from that, I've had no major engine issues. I bought it with about 20k miles roughly 4 years ago and now I'm coming up on 140k. One thing to consider, in my case, is that my car is a work vehicle that's been pushed hard quite a few times, and has spent thousands of hours idling. It's *definitely* put in some work. That said, I've stayed on top of all maintenence the entire time I've owned it. Regular air filter changes (engine and cabin), coolant changes, transmission services, spark plugs, throttle body cleaning and decarb service, 5k mile oil change intervals, and ONLY 93 octane during my entire ownership. I've yet to make any exceptions regarding fuel, although if I ever drive it out West, where the highest octane is 91 in a lot of places, I'll have to compromise. I also clean and detail it when i can, but i live in the heart of the Rust Belt, so it's only a matter of time until the rust gets it. But I plan on keeping it on the road until that day comes.
Video is outdated.. dual port gen 2 never have carbon issues
For all the talk, I don’t think generation 1 does either. 160,000 miles on my 15. No catch can no issues. No online problems I’ve seen either.
Direct injection or Direct/Port injection?
2018 and up DI
2018 has direct and port injection
2.7 L gan here, mines in a 2022 Edge ST. Runs great , quiet and deffinaty enough power for me
I have a 2016 f-150 with a 2.7 motor 107,000 miles started smelling antifreeze it was leaking into the head and burning the antifreeze it was not a head gasket eventually the motor was shot got a used motor only 40,000 on it 3 year warranty smoked the entire time and was also using antifreeze with in 2 months I had all the same issues as the first time no clue what to do now get another motor and deal with it again
Looking at getting this 2021 F-150 2.7L ecoboost with 73000kms. I’m getting mixed reviews for its reliability and longevity. Does anyone have first hand experience with the second gen 2.7?
F-150, 2017. 165,00 +. Only issue, replace purge valve.
not a direct injection system, it has a dual or port injection system
So why were the intake valves all caked-up?
The 2011 to 2016 2.7 didn't have duel injectors, the 2017 to 2023 had both injectors.
Perhaps he used a pic of some other engine to try a prove a point. Just like he said excessive oil consumption, that’s bull💩, I’ve never heard anyone make that claim unless you had a 5.0@@hmdwn
I thought the 2017 ford Fusion sport with the twin turbo 2.7L v6 awd was cool but I like the 3.5L v6 I think it’s super powerful but I don’t know which one I should be looking for
2.7
I think you are wrong about higher octane fuels burning cleaner, where is your data to support that claim?
Partly agree. Higher octane fuel is designed to resist detonation or "knocking" in high-performance engines that have higher compression ratios or turbocharging. It is not necessarily cleaner-burning than regular gasoline.
Some fuel manufacturers do add detergents to higher octane fuels that can help keep engine components clean and reduce emissions. Additionally, some higher-end gasoline formulations, such as "Top Tier" gasoline, may contain fewer impurities and contaminants, which can lead to cleaner burning and reduced engine deposits.
All gasoline grades have detergents in them!!!
If you think you need to run premium in this 2.7 daily you are wrong. If that’s the case then a 5.0 with 12.5 factory compression ratio would require premium all the time, and it doesn’t need that at all@@carproblemsmax
@@surroundedbyjaggoffs and top tier gas has more detergents in it, to be called top tier it has a set of standards it must pass unlike any other brand of gasoline
Put a Tiger tail in tank🐆
I got the V-8 because murica!
Wait till that rubber oil pump belt breaks on the 18 and newer. Ones lol
A lot of people have been waiting for that belt to break and it hasn’t happened yet
@@paulhunter9613😂😂😂they can wait only
@@jassmaan7603 there are sites out there that folks have over 200,000 mi and no problems, it’s like waiting any other engine to have issues 🥴
Does the newer 2021 models have the wet belt?
I drove new thundra hybrid believe me it’s drive like shit , overbuild truck and you feel like ur driving a garbage truck😂
premium gas ............have u checked the price diff thats a deal breaker no wonder I see so many used 2.7L on my local lot this is a $35k truck i'll wait my 04 f150 4.6L. only has 77k miles still hauls my bass boat just fine ....for now
I've had 2 of them and used nothing but 87 octane with 0 problems, they're really good motors.
You can use either 87 or 93. Also I had a 4.6 2v, great durable engine
I use 87 in my 2.7. I use chevron gas so its probably a solid choice for 87 gasoline. Truck runs great.
Have the 2.7. It needs Lucas fuel stabilizer every couple tanks have the catch can it's great But
Had the 4.6. Was a great runner
A healthy 4.6 is as good as anything if you're not looking at $$$. Expected issues on the 4.6 2v aren't so bad with proper care. However, if I did go newer I would get a 2.7 and treat it well (like the 4.6 and also 5.4 2v, Not 3valve. I've had a couple of 5.4 2v and they are smooth and quiet, and with proper care 250,000+ miles is achievable. We'll have to wait for 15 more years to find out how these EBs turn out, but for me an older 10th generation (1997-2003) 5.4/4.6 is just fine...IF TAKEN CARE OF.
I would have developed a high compression, dual injection 2.7 litre 4 cylinder, developing around bhp/torque 200/200 with an advanced EGR system for emissions and a similarly engineered 4.0 litre inline 6 cylinder, developing about 320/300 with an emphasis on simplicity, durability and reliability not engine stalling, oil dripping and carbon build up. Turbocharging is not the answer to everything.
And don’t believe everything you hear on YT, some of the things said in this vid is bull💩
I will take the 4.0 litre Nissan V6. Plenty of power, reliable, okay fuel economy.
We have both!
I miss my nissian truck. The Frontiers are great. I upgraded to the F150 for a full size. Hopefully it lasts a long time.
Fake news, 2.7 EB is a good engine. Click bait video.
The Ford F one hundred 50!!!!
Ford lost 5 billion in warranty work in 2021-2022. Couldn't find the 2023 numbers. But thats why your truck cost 60-70k, because they ain't giving up 5 billion. Your paying for it.
2018 2.7 EcoBoost or newer have duel injectors, 1 direct injector and 1 port injector per cylinder, this eliminates the carbon buildup,check your facts before making a video.
Every engine has an achilles heel.
Premium gas??? Forget it
You guys lost me when in the 3.5 video you said it was designed to replace the Coyote. The Coyote didn't exist in 07. Also you missed the 2.7's biggest flaw. That's the rubber oil pump belt. The belt is wet and degrades over time clogging the oil pick up.
Very good point, what engine would you recommend?
@JulianoGSF it depends on what you're looking for. In my opinion, the eco-boost motors have been vetted out pretty well. But if you want 200K miles plus, stick with a 3.7 for cars and definitely a Coyote for the trucks.
Interesting opinion @@briantufaro1953
@brianufaro
It isn’t a flaw and the belt does not degrade
@@JulianoGSF the five oh has the cold startup death rattle, high oil consumption, has a “tick” when warm, and has Mds which if is like GM and Ram will destroy the engine. And it has no low end torque to tow things like a truck should have
you're an opinion too ya point is iits not reliable look at the frequent problems thats reliable really
Sounds like a total pos ford does make one good engine but you can’t get it in a F150 . The 7.3 liter Godzilla now I can get behind that! No over head cams 2 valves per cylinder no turbo other than that I wouldn’t waste my money on on a Ford
Please people don't waste your money on American junk because they are nothing but problems. The only thing American cars are #1 on is technology but will give you a lot of problems down the road. Save your money and get you a Toyota that will last you a long time and will it worth more than any other makes.
Perceived reliability 🤣🤣
I compared the 2024 Ranger Lariat 2.7 to the 2024 Tacoma Limited. All things considered, the Ranger is a far better truck. People have different opinions. I put down a $1,000 deposit and ordered the Ranger 4 days ago.
My Ford Taurus with the 3.5 V6 is 14 years old and the only two things replaced under the hood was a 02 sensor and high-pressure power steering hose. Very reliable vehicle, purrs like a kitten still today. Now my E150 at 280k miles had only two problems under the hood, which was an alternator and HVAC fan which I did my self around 100 dollars each to repair and that was after 210k miles. Great vehicle too! People want to rip Ford, but they done good with me.
@Chieftain357 You likely have one out of a million trucks that was built correctly by Ford. Not one person I know is happy with their new EcoBoost trucks. The Ford diesel is nothing but trouble. I think Ford builds them with problems so people will buy new trucks every two years. This is why they build them with the latest technology and fully equip them every two years. But the engine and transmission are trash.
junk fool me once🤢🇨🇦
Trash. Drives like a honda with real lag. Sounds like a honda. Dressed up like a truck. Perfect soy boi dress up truck. Biggest regret of my life time buying this 2.7 garbage. Miss my V8 power.
This fake person doesnt know what its talking about
Anyone do a EGR delete? Along with a tuner.
It's throwing money in a hole on this engine what's out more emissions cost more to even drive down the road speed down the road a couple times and then spend more time in the shop piece of junk
pmsl@dependible clearly this guy is getting paid by ford
Clearly it’s just your opinion