Awesome video! I’m very happy to see I can leave the entire skid in place. I’m about to check the drive shaft and bearing for any wear on my 2018 winder. I’ve heard that the axle spins inside the bearing and wears out. Turns out there’s a new fix if the axle is worn too much for an axle saver. I think it’s the same fellow who designed the axle saver. This is a one piece bearing with sleeve that goes over the worn part of the axle instead of the axle saver that goes inside. Have you heard of these and if so, what’s your opinion? Thank you
Awesome video! I drive the cat version of your sled and am currently doing all of my pre-season maintenance. Your vids have been extremely helpful! All of the gearcase info and tri-hub removal have been great. Great advise on re-packing bearings before they fail! Starting to get snow here in Deep River Ont, so hoping for a good long season of riding here and in Quebec. If you ever ride this area, look me up and I will show you the local trails on the east side of the park! I subbed to your channel. Keep the good info coming!
Thanks! and glad to help out man! Your lucky to be up in such a great snowmobiling area! I remember a sweet pipeline run up that way on the rap tour! Quebec is an unreal place to ride too! Thanks for the Sub I'll do my best to keep them coming when I can! Maybe see ya out on trails someday that would be cool to see the local stuff!
I just turned 9000 miles on my 2012 1100 turbo on the original bearings and I’ve never greased them. Or did any thing to them. I’m on my 3rd track now and every time I have swapped tracks the bearing felt fine. Why fix if it ain’t broke is my motto. Now those pesky bearing in the idler wheels are another story!!
4500kms on 2014 XF7000 Crosstour and just replaced every skid wheel bearing and trihub bearings were shot. Worst thing with the trihub on the CAT MY14 is the bearings are incased ( no snap ring ) in the wheel so I had to dremmel out the plastic to be able to remove the 6004 2RS bearings. With the collared shaft and trihub wheels being bolted together, No need for snap ring to hold bearings in I guess. Hope it works. Next is to do this procedure on the drive shaft and brake caiper bearing.
Hey Mike. Are these the only 2 bearings to repack or check? Is there nothing in the chain case side? I'm about to do an oil and chain case oil job and thinking about tackling this a little nervous Eeks. (16 viper xtx le).
As far as I remember yes, the chain case side is lubed with chaincase oil. It is a daunting task and you may need the rubber gasket o ring for the cover depending on its condition. Don’t put too much oil back in (engine) read the description for what I ended up using. They say to fill just above sight glass for (chaincase oil. )Good luck with it if you decide to do it.
Any concern about the stress on the bearing on the chain case side when the driveshaft bearing was removed and pulled back by the track. Thanks! Enjoy you videos. Picked up an LTX for my son, putting pilot skis on that one.
I have the Viper 2017 the same problem it was super dry especially the top one took me a couple hours to get the job done but I did it I filled it back up with bearing Synthetic Grease Lucas red Grease makes sense I only had 2100 miles the other Carousel bearing what's okay four maybe five hundred more miles I just got it done all together
I did mine after 2,000 miles and I'm glad I did because it was 20% increase left on the bottom one and the clutch one was dry 100%. So I finished adding Grease I think I'm going to do this every 4,000 miles at 11,000 or $12,000 miles I'm going to change all the bearings left on the right side
Do you still have your 2016 viper, if so how many miles are on it. Do you have the original top bearing in chain case or have you upgraded to the non wobble bearing??? Thanks Rich
@@bikermike the upgrade would be a new jackshaft, the back of the chain case, it's costly, about 350 us. But gets away from the wobble bearing that seams to go.
Everything's good man! Dry bearings won't last though. Worth checking at least. If they've been dry for awhile with lots of miles you may want to replace them if you think they are damaged. Mine were still ok with about 4,000kms on them but needed grease!
@@bikermike so you had the rotor in the caliper between the pad assembled before tightening into the skid. Also thanks for the fast reply! I have watched all your videos and have became Yamaha DIY man thanks to your very informative and detailed work. Really appreciated.
@@CUTPONDCREW Yes thats correct based on what I remember and can see in my video. Glad to help out and its great to hear that you've found my videos helpful!
Thanks for the video, my 2016 viper has 9000, km and I'm just doing them to .Yamaha has on maintenance on these bearings .Polaris had grease fittings on there jack shaft bearings.
do you have video after installation ok brake galiper bearing when you run track i want see if brake galiper moving when you rum track i done job on 3 sled and after testing all 3 caliper moving with frame tunel
Thanks Brian! I’m planning on keeping the viper for a long time. But won’t rule out getting a two stroke sled for some on/off trail riding as well some day! Likely the far distant future though hahaha! A newer truck should be my next priority....
In the case where your bearing look bad and all the grease was still there your best off if you're going to do it is to wash all the old grease out and when you add grease you should grease every slot on one side or every other slot on both sides anymore in the bearing will fail a little history I've been in the bearing industry for 37 years Most bearings on the market fail from too much grease very few die from lack of Grease and the bearing gets hot because all of the grease and it runs out people typically think they under greased it I know and when in reality they over greased it if you're buying an NTN you want one that says LLU the LLB is a non-contact seal and will allow dirt and moisture to get in the bearing you should be using the red seals if they're NTN
Thats very odd.... every single catastrophic bearing failure I've come across in my 30 years of power-sports wrenching had zero trace of grease left in it and even dry to the point of rusting! Everything from bicycles, motorcycles, dirt bikes, ATVs, Snowmobiles, as well as automotive. Never ever have I seen a bearing come apart that had lube left in it!. Washing out the bearing would just make a mess and at that point might as well yank it out clean it properly but then again just put a new one in so long as it was properly lubed. Now all this talk of bearings reminds me I need to make sure the bearing buddies on my trailer axle are filled up with my grease gun through the grease fittings as well as the dreaded job of tearing in to my CR450 to clean and repack all linkage and steering bearings on it! I feel much better knowing there is sufficient lube in the drive bearings on my sled but thanks for the tips!
Just found this vid on YT and reading through the comments. I have an 09 Nytro and as part of my pre maintenance, I always pull the skid, and go through my bearings...every year. Overkill...probably. Usually the bearings are good, as I clean each one out, and LIGHTLY repack. I have heard these comments from people over the years that too much grease can be worse than too little, as heat will fling them out etc. Now...I will sday, that I always buy NTN bearings LLU and have have great luck in all my motor toys (KTM 500, Wolverine SXS and Nytro). Either way...all good comments and vid on the subject. For my Nytro, I replace my drive shaft bearing every 3rd year...but grease it every fall. They are prone for failure as a lot of snow gets up and around it from the track.
Awesome video! I’m very happy to see I can leave the entire skid in place. I’m about to check the drive shaft and bearing for any wear on my 2018 winder. I’ve heard that the axle spins inside the bearing and wears out. Turns out there’s a new fix if the axle is worn too much for an axle saver. I think it’s the same fellow who designed the axle saver. This is a one piece bearing with sleeve that goes over the worn part of the axle instead of the axle saver that goes inside. Have you heard of these and if so, what’s your opinion? Thank you
Awesome video! I drive the cat version of your sled and am currently doing all of my pre-season maintenance. Your vids have been extremely helpful! All of the gearcase info and tri-hub removal have been great. Great advise on re-packing bearings before they fail! Starting to get snow here in Deep River Ont, so hoping for a good long season of riding here and in Quebec. If you ever ride this area, look me up and I will show you the local trails on the east side of the park! I subbed to your channel. Keep the good info coming!
Thanks! and glad to help out man! Your lucky to be up in such a great snowmobiling area! I remember a sweet pipeline run up that way on the rap tour! Quebec is an unreal place to ride too! Thanks for the Sub I'll do my best to keep them coming when I can!
Maybe see ya out on trails someday that would be cool to see the local stuff!
Nice video.
Is there anything i should think about when taking the secondary clutch off
I also do those two bearings every every year. The caliper bearing gets dirty so fast with the belt dust.
I just turned 9000 miles on my 2012 1100 turbo on the original bearings and I’ve never greased them. Or did any thing to them. I’m on my 3rd track now and every time I have swapped tracks the bearing felt fine. Why fix if it ain’t broke is my motto.
Now those pesky bearing in the idler wheels are another story!!
10,000 on my 2012 turbo!!
4500kms on 2014 XF7000 Crosstour and just replaced every skid wheel bearing and trihub bearings were shot. Worst thing with the trihub on the CAT MY14 is the bearings are incased ( no snap ring ) in the wheel so I had to dremmel out the plastic to be able to remove the 6004 2RS bearings. With the collared shaft and trihub wheels being bolted together, No need for snap ring to hold bearings in I guess. Hope it works. Next is to do this procedure on the drive shaft and brake caiper bearing.
Hey Mike. Are these the only 2 bearings to repack or check? Is there nothing in the chain case side? I'm about to do an oil and chain case oil job and thinking about tackling this a little nervous Eeks. (16 viper xtx le).
As far as I remember yes, the chain case side is lubed with chaincase oil. It is a daunting task and you may need the rubber gasket o ring for the cover depending on its condition. Don’t put too much oil back in (engine) read the description for what I ended up using. They say to fill just above sight glass for (chaincase oil. )Good luck with it if you decide to do it.
@@bikermike thanks brother. Will be heading to Royal in a couple days to get everything I need
Any concern about the stress on the bearing on the chain case side when the driveshaft bearing was removed and pulled back by the track. Thanks! Enjoy you videos. Picked up an LTX for my son, putting pilot skis on that one.
If your concentred about that, just loosen off the track tension at the rear of skid.
I have the Viper 2017 the same problem it was super dry especially the top one took me a couple hours to get the job done but I did it I filled it back up with bearing Synthetic Grease Lucas red Grease makes sense I only had 2100 miles the other Carousel bearing what's okay four maybe five hundred more miles I just got it done all together
I did mine after 2,000 miles and I'm glad I did because it was 20% increase left on the bottom one and the clutch one was dry 100%. So I finished adding Grease I think I'm going to do this every 4,000 miles at 11,000 or $12,000 miles I'm going to change all the bearings left on the right side
Sounds like a good plan! I still can't believe how dry of grease they were on mine!
Hi mike have you ever placed a drive shaft bearing saver. Bearing with a sleeve.
I have a video on a product from (Rockz Toys) called the "GREASE IT" check it out. Will be in the Viper playlist on my channel page
Do you still have your 2016 viper, if so how many miles are on it. Do you have the original top bearing in chain case or have you upgraded to the non wobble bearing??? Thanks Rich
Yes, I have 6,100kms on it. Original top bearing just did third chaincase oil change.
Not aware of the upgrade bearing. I’ll have to look into that.
@@bikermike the upgrade would be a new jackshaft, the back of the chain case, it's costly, about 350 us. But gets away from the wobble bearing that seams to go.
@@MrRerhardt
Thanks for sharing this! I read 2016 midway they changed to newer design? Hoping mine is newer design.
Hello, how did your regreasing of the bearings (jack shaft and drive shaft) hold up last year. Have the same sled need to do mine.
Everything's good man! Dry bearings won't last though. Worth checking at least. If they've been dry for awhile with lots of miles you may want to replace them if you think they are damaged. Mine were still ok with about 4,000kms on them but needed grease!
How in the world did you get your rotor back in place without splitting the caliper!? I’m stuck. Any insight would be so helpful.
Its been awhile since I had it apart but from what I can see and remember the rotor and caliper were mated before it was slid onto driveshaft.
Once on shaft I held it in the correct position to line up the bolts with that strap I used.
@@bikermike so you had the rotor in the caliper between the pad assembled before tightening into the skid.
Also thanks for the fast reply! I have watched all your videos and have became Yamaha DIY man thanks to your very informative and detailed work. Really appreciated.
@@CUTPONDCREW Yes thats correct based on what I remember and can see in my video. Glad to help out and its great to hear that you've found my videos helpful!
Thanks for the video, my 2016 viper has 9000, km and I'm just doing them to .Yamaha has on maintenance on these bearings .Polaris had grease fittings on there jack shaft bearings.
thank you for the video very informative ! can you please tell me which one was greaseless :)
was the jack shaft bearing (clutch side).
Do you need a puller to remove the secondary? just got a used viper and would like to check the bearings
Been awhile since I did this but I think I just used an impact gun to loosen the bolt and it should slide right off. Hopefully your bearings are ok!
do you have a video that shows the brake caliper by the time you have turned the track, I want to see this one if it works a bit with the frame
All my viper videos are in the viper play list.. I’m not sure what you meant with your question..
do you have video after installation ok brake galiper bearing when you run track i want see if brake galiper moving when you rum track i done job on 3 sled and after testing all 3 caliper moving with frame tunel
Guillaume Thibault I think I understand what your saying now... I will look into that and get back to you.
Just ran mine in shop brake caliper is rock solid not moving at all. Are those inner three bolts tight that hold the drive shaft to tunnel? 5:57
That bearing in your brake caliper may be shot too?
You didn’t have any issues, correct?
None.
@@bikermike thanks for you quick replies!
What about the other side bearing?
It is in the chain case with oil, so I never did anything to it
Another awsome Vid Mike, where will i look too when you sell that Viper and go to a Polaris 850,hahaha
Thanks Brian! I’m planning on keeping the viper for a long time. But won’t rule out getting a two stroke sled for some on/off trail riding as well some day! Likely the far distant future though hahaha! A newer truck should be my next priority....
In the case where your bearing look bad and all the grease was still there your best off if you're going to do it is to wash all the old grease out and when you add grease you should grease every slot on one side or every other slot on both sides anymore in the bearing will fail a little history I've been in the bearing industry for 37 years
Most bearings on the market fail from too much grease very few die from lack of Grease and the bearing gets hot because all of the grease and it runs out people typically think they under greased it I know and when in reality they over greased it if you're buying an NTN you want one that says LLU the LLB is a non-contact seal and will allow dirt and moisture to get in the bearing you should be using the red seals if they're NTN
Thats very odd.... every single catastrophic bearing failure I've come across in my 30 years of power-sports wrenching had zero trace of grease left in it and even dry to the point of rusting! Everything from bicycles, motorcycles, dirt bikes, ATVs, Snowmobiles, as well as automotive.
Never ever have I seen a bearing come apart that had lube left in it!. Washing out the bearing would just make a mess and at that point might as well yank it out clean it properly but then again just put a new one in so long as it was properly lubed. Now all this talk of bearings reminds me I need to make sure the bearing buddies on my trailer axle are filled up with my grease gun through the grease fittings as well as the dreaded job of tearing in to my CR450 to clean and repack all linkage and steering bearings on it!
I feel much better knowing there is sufficient lube in the drive bearings on my sled but thanks for the tips!
Just found this vid on YT and reading through the comments. I have an 09 Nytro and as part of my pre maintenance, I always pull the skid, and go through my bearings...every year. Overkill...probably. Usually the bearings are good, as I clean each one out, and LIGHTLY repack. I have heard these comments from people over the years that too much grease can be worse than too little, as heat will fling them out etc. Now...I will sday, that I always buy NTN bearings LLU and have have great luck in all my motor toys (KTM 500, Wolverine SXS and Nytro). Either way...all good comments and vid on the subject.
For my Nytro, I replace my drive shaft bearing every 3rd year...but grease it every fall. They are prone for failure as a lot of snow gets up and around it from the track.
Super, big like from me. Come to vizit us my friend.