Nice old-school amp. Regarding the components, the black transistors on the left are switching mosfets. They take the 12v dc current and switch or create a high frequency alternating current. This high frequency current is fed to the toroidal transformer, the ring with the copper wires, and steps up the voltage to get higher power since 12v can't do no more than 15 to 20 watts. This high voltage is later rectified and filtered and fed to the power amplifier. The green and black transistors are the power output transistors that feed the speakers. This is an extremely simplified and basic explanation....and I'm no expert but have an basic understanding of how amps work.
Sounds right. It looks like it has a large iron core inductor before the transformer. Probably for noise reduction. Heck, if the caps are not bulged or leaking I'd feed it a slow increase of dc voltage so as to charge all the caps slowly. Limit the current to 5A and see if it works.
I do have the Alpine 3527 Class “A” it looks pretty much as the 3550,and do have the Alpine 3002 . Excellent couple of vintage amplifiers………simply I love them!❤🎉
Very few amps had built in crossovers in the 90's. I have some Rockford amps from 1999 that had plug in cards as a crossover. You change the resistor values (by soldering) to change the frequency. In the early 2000's they had adjustable crossovers. And Rockford was ahead of other companies in design. I'm surprised to see through hole components. I believe Rockford started using discreet surface mount designs at least by 93. They called it DSM technology. Lol
I do have the Alpine 3527 Class “A” it looks pretty much as the 3550,and do have the Alpine 3002 . Excellent couple of vintage amplifiers………simply I love them!❤🎉PD Not too much power,but excellent sound quality that’s the most important for me!!!
I use to install a lot of these amps back in the day as I was a fitter for the car electronics (Leicester branch) from 1989 thro to 2004. Very good amps with plenty of quality power 👌🏻
this amp seems to be in original condition, all the power transistors and caps appears to be period correct and untouched. a very low power ones for today's standard since it can only deliver 10W clean output at 4Ohms, THD 1kHz 0.08%. i found this amp uses uPC1270 chip as the driver circuit soooo, sorry to say it's no special. the very least you can do to keep it in prime condition is a full re-cap. i also just started my car audio journey, scored an oldschool Sony XM-450G. they works fine but i still dont feel good using 20y/o+ caps so it's now under the surgery table! a tip for you: if you want a real Alpine engineering goodness, take a look on their MRV series. those "V12" series employs discrete front end driver stage
I had a 25watt x4 amp almost exactly like that. It might have been slightly newer or older because I don't remember those white plugs. Sounded great for how little power it had. Almost no amps in the nineties had crossovers or other features.
My pick of the old school Alpine AB amps are the early v12 series, particularly the '05s, with the 1505 my fav. The little 3550 is a bit of an older design in comparison & a fairly basic little amp with a heap of fly leads like you see in the vid. The early generation (00, 05) v12 amps are decent step up beyond this.
Regarding the Duo-B, here is an excerpt from an old Alpine 35xx amplifier manual: "Duo-B feedback circuitry: Alpine’s proprietary Duo-Beta is a technologically advanced form of feedback circuitry. Duo-Beta supplies low negative feedback throughout the audio frequency bandwidth and very high negative feedback at DC. This stabilizes the amplifier, removed DC offset, and offers excellent total harmonic distortion (T.H.D.) characteristics. It also provides low transient intermodulation distortion (T.I.M.), excellent slew rate, stability, and musicality."
I have CT sounds meso components and kick panels Infinity Kappa speakers a bema 12in midbass driver behind seat. 4 pdx amps but no dsp. Is my setup worthy of a show your tune vid
Well, if there is no DSP, you can't really tune the system🤷 You could send me your raw responses and I can advise what to do when you finally get a DSP😉
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I love your videos, keep going, i like how you do this from passion and not fir views
I installed over 100 of those, they were great amps.
Nice old-school amp. Regarding the components, the black transistors on the left are switching mosfets. They take the 12v dc current and switch or create a high frequency alternating current. This high frequency current is fed to the toroidal transformer, the ring with the copper wires, and steps up the voltage to get higher power since 12v can't do no more than 15 to 20 watts. This high voltage is later rectified and filtered and fed to the power amplifier. The green and black transistors are the power output transistors that feed the speakers. This is an extremely simplified and basic explanation....and I'm no expert but have an basic understanding of how amps work.
Sounds right. It looks like it has a large iron core inductor before the transformer. Probably for noise reduction.
Heck, if the caps are not bulged or leaking I'd feed it a slow increase of dc voltage so as to charge all the caps slowly. Limit the current to 5A and see if it works.
I do have the Alpine 3527 Class “A” it looks pretty much as the 3550,and do have the Alpine 3002 . Excellent couple of vintage amplifiers………simply I love them!❤🎉
Very few amps had built in crossovers in the 90's. I have some Rockford amps from 1999 that had plug in cards as a crossover. You change the resistor values (by soldering) to change the frequency. In the early 2000's they had adjustable crossovers. And Rockford was ahead of other companies in design.
I'm surprised to see through hole components. I believe Rockford started using discreet surface mount designs at least by 93. They called it DSM technology. Lol
I do have the Alpine 3527 Class “A” it looks pretty much as the 3550,and do have the Alpine 3002 . Excellent couple of vintage amplifiers………simply I love them!❤🎉PD Not too much power,but excellent sound quality that’s the most important for me!!!
I use to install a lot of these amps back in the day as I was a fitter for the car electronics (Leicester branch) from 1989 thro to 2004. Very good amps with plenty of quality power 👌🏻
this amp seems to be in original condition, all the power transistors and caps appears to be period correct and untouched. a very low power ones for today's standard since it can only deliver 10W clean output at 4Ohms, THD 1kHz 0.08%. i found this amp uses uPC1270 chip as the driver circuit soooo, sorry to say it's no special. the very least you can do to keep it in prime condition is a full re-cap. i also just started my car audio journey, scored an oldschool Sony XM-450G. they works fine but i still dont feel good using 20y/o+ caps so it's now under the surgery table!
a tip for you: if you want a real Alpine engineering goodness, take a look on their MRV series. those "V12" series employs discrete front end driver stage
the 35 series are some of the best SQ amps i ever used ... all quality Nichicon capacitors filtering out the wazoo
I had a 25watt x4 amp almost exactly like that. It might have been slightly newer or older because I don't remember those white plugs. Sounded great for how little power it had. Almost no amps in the nineties had crossovers or other features.
My pick of the old school Alpine AB amps are the early v12 series, particularly the '05s, with the 1505 my fav. The little 3550 is a bit of an older design in comparison & a fairly basic little amp with a heap of fly leads like you see in the vid. The early generation (00, 05) v12 amps are decent step up beyond this.
Regarding the Duo-B, here is an excerpt from an old Alpine 35xx amplifier manual:
"Duo-B feedback circuitry: Alpine’s proprietary Duo-Beta is a technologically advanced form of feedback circuitry. Duo-Beta supplies low negative feedback throughout the audio frequency bandwidth and very high negative feedback at DC. This stabilizes the amplifier, removed DC offset, and offers excellent total harmonic distortion (T.H.D.) characteristics. It also provides low transient intermodulation distortion (T.I.M.), excellent slew rate, stability, and musicality."
Great info, thanks😊
Recently found ur channel. I love the content. I like every vid b4 watching . Never skip adds. What do you think about 6th order boxes f8r sq
The purpose of a bandpass alignment is to increase SPL. There is no such need in SQ. In SQ linearity is more important than output.
that is pre 1991 they switched from the molex plugs to screw termination
I'm using a pioneer prs-a900 for my tweeters and midrange. I'd love to see some tests done on one of those. They look very pritty on the inside.
That looks like my old amp i put magic marker on the scratch . I’m in Boston USA ! I owned it in the 89-91 ‘
Nice 🙂👍
i have umic 1, and not have sound card so can i take impulse responce without sound card ?
Well, technically you can ,but it won't be correct due to the lack of loopback. You need an audio interface with two inputs.
Well, technically you can ,but it won't be correct due to the lack of loopback. You need an audio interface with two inputs.
Any other way how do identify phase issues
hey i have this amp, anyone know where i could find wires for them (canada)
I have CT sounds meso components and kick panels Infinity Kappa speakers a bema 12in midbass driver behind seat. 4 pdx amps but no dsp. Is my setup worthy of a show your tune vid
Well, if there is no DSP, you can't really tune the system🤷 You could send me your raw responses and I can advise what to do when you finally get a DSP😉
What email can I send pics and measurements too?
Do you have a home theater?
@@midbass.maestro rawcaraudiotuning@gmail.com
@@midbass.maestro no, I don't
Plz suggest me a cheap sound card for impulse response and compatible with umik 1
Focusrite scarlet.
@@MickeyMishra scarlet solo or 2i2
It’s support umik 1 ?
I think I've been looking at that on eBay for a while
You have there 2 bad caps. Before testing you should recap it - big ones for sure. And you have to change thermal paste.
Thanks for noticing🙄
@@RAW-CAt no problem, if you do this, it will work for another 20 years:)