Are all seams done by hand? FYI, I just watched a video with Jason Mamoa having a Henry Poole Savile Row suit made, and they showed a pocket being sewn by machine.
ever since ive been 14 i love wearing suits/necties ans shinny shoes which is hard living in a drug pushing chav hood and now at 17 ive saved enought money to finaly buy my custom made suit im so happy :D
Not a necessity to feel good, but when I look good I know I definitely feel a little bit better about myself. When I'm in a shirt and tie, or a suite, and its crisply pressed and steamed, I have a bit more confidence in my step.
As a custom tailor, I find this as insulting and belittling to my trade. Making a suit, or any clothing is an art. Everyone is unique and different in some (even if it is the most minute) of ways. Machines are nice, for cutting time. But I will NEVER believe that they will truly stand up against the historic, time-old method of handmade tailoring. It lends perspective as to why a quality, hand-crafted, fully canvassed suit costs more than something like the suit that was displayed here: No canvassing, glue everywhere, made and given an average size. Due to the fact that they're made to fit every body type, it will never fir anyone especially well. Thank you, I'll get off my soap box now.
Can you teach me how to create a suit and what materials I need so i can compare the cost of making my own suit vs how much it would for me to buy one?
Thank you for saying this. I feel exactly the same way. Still, someone's banking off of this and driving the economy, so... whatever, I guess. It's not like we can stop them, ha.
This kind of manufacturing suits by machine contributed to the decline in the interests in bespoke suits in the past few decades workldwide. I hate this way of making money.
Interesting that the tailors are piping in here. You are talking about the difference between a Rolls Royce and a Toyota. Everyone would love to drive the best of the best, but most people can't (or won't) pay the prices. This is the same the suit in the video retails for $500. The pricing for a hand tailored, bespoke suit, start in the $1000 range and can get into the $5000 area. As in any product, it's all about the price/quality ratio.
I watch this video every now and then to remind myself of why not to cheap out on suits. Many corners are being cut from the way the fabric is cut, to the machine sewing largely automated to eliminate skilled labour, and the cheap construction with the fusible interfacing. The cuts (really noticed it at several points in this video) and materials are usually pretty poor on the suits at this level as well. Obviously, off the rack garments aren't going to fit as well as a MTM or bespoke garment will, as they can account for things that off the rack simply can't. For me personally, I have broad shoulders against a slim waist, and a weird shoulder drop so my one arm is about 1/2" longer than the other. For these reasons, I don't fit into some cuts of off the rack suits very well, and almost always have to have the waist taken in a bit in the jacket. Having said that though, there's many better options available for off the rack garments than the kind of suits pictured here. The main issues with these kinds of cheaper suits comes down to the fused interfacing. Simply put, an interfacing is a material placed between two layers of fabric to give it structure and rigidity. Very roughly speaking, interfacing can either be sewn into a garment, or glued into a garment (fusible type). The fusible types of interfacing generally work well when you want a lot of stiffness for something, e.g. some shirt collars use fusible interfacing so they maintain a stiff appearance. The only problem with fusible interfacing is that since it's attached to the fabric by means of glue, the glue can break down when exposed to heat, or just detach itself over time. This is quite a common problem in these suits, especially when they're exposed to heat and steam at the dry cleaners. I refuse to use fusible interfacing in my projects for this very reason. Some high quality fusible interfacing seems to be not too bad at staying attached (especially in some shirts), but in a suit of this level it's a mathematical certainty that the fusing used isn't going to be very good. Unlike a shirt collar, a jacket needs to be soft enough so that you can move around in it with ease, but also stiff enough so that structure is maintained. The other issue that arises with using fusible interfacing in a jacket, is that it tends to stiffen the jacket up a little bit too much. When you have that fusing in the chest area, it creates an insulating layer that isn't very breathable and doesn't move as easily as it could. Not to mention, fused jackets tend to have rather stiff lifeless lapels (poor lapel roll) that look cheap and unnatural when compared to canvassed jackets. A lot of the women's "blazers" they sell these days at the mall, are the prime example of a cheap, lifeless lapel. As for the bit when they put silicone in the pants crease, that's called a "super crease." It basically makes the trousers leg crease a little bit more permanent, so it doesn't need to be ironed as much. Just like with the fusing, it has a finite number of dry cleaning cycles it can withstand. Some tailor shops have the equipment to add "super creases" to pants, but this is the first time I've seen a pair come right from the factory with one already in place. It gives the impression that these suits are being marketed to the person who only has to wear a suit begrudgingly a few times a year, and who doesn't care about quality, aesthetics and lacks the patience to iron anything. If you're dead set on off the rack, I'm convinced that Samuelsohn provides a very good value for the price. You get a fully canvassed garment made out of really nice fabrics, it's made by skilled labour in North America, hand sewing where it really matters like in the sleeves/armholes and horn buttons. Many of their suits are sold with un-hemmed sleeves as well. I think as far as value goes, if you were to go to a higher level of off the rack suit, you'd be better served by a high-calibre MTM service or bespoke. Balfour Clothing has many good offerings of both. Many nice vintage examples can be found of both if cost is an issue. Other brands worth looking into that give a decent quality, or a good value for the price are Paul Betenly, Suitsupply and Spier and MacKay. These give a mix of half and full canvas constructions. Cool video nonetheless!
I have only ever owned 1 of those off the rack cheap suits I had to catch a flight in a hurry got in taxi to airport felt a glued seem under the arm give way thought I could live with that for now got on plane as I sat down the seam on the inside of leg gave way had to get a safety pin from stewardess to make a fix got to london went and splurged on a Versace suit they loaned me a suit until mine was ready (some tailoring) that was 5yrs ago still have suit I feel great wearing it, quality tops
Not all suits are made by machines, those are the more "generic" ones. If someone wants something fancy they have to get it made for themselves. The machines allow mass production and $ flow.
@onio1 well it actually is... i dont think it's talking about looking beautiful, because everyone has a different expectation of beauty.. but if you think you look good in your OWN way, then you obviously feel good :D i hope i could explain myself better but i can't lol soo i hope u undertand what im saying :)
High Street suit for men who only look at the price tag . There are so many options out there nowadays in the land of online / boutique tailor stores that have high hand made quality for a fair price . Not Savile Row but very very good and a world away from glued suits . Try and i bet you will never want to put on a glued & machine sewn suit again ...
Michael Weston its not that some of us just look at the price tag..most of us have to look at the price tag.im sure every guy here myself included would like to afford a custom hand tailored suit.best we can hope for is buying a suit that more or less fits right and taking it somewhere for some adjustments to be made to it..
Ya Boi Trapezius : absolutely . I too look at the price tag and have learned through experience that for a similar price of a “ high street shop “ suit , that you CAN get high quality and tailored fit by checking online / online plus stores suit companies .. I would suggest taking a look at Suit Supply , a Dutch company with a high end reputation .
This its sewing this, this is throwing together fabric on a medal machine laziness, Tailors create art with with fabric, love, patience, hard work and caring for their clients.
So, a drawing is computerized and then cut out? Nope! The construction is an art and a craft that transforms the designers ideas into a pattern that shapes the fabric. There's both skill and a lot of technicality to it. Then there's fitting. And sizing. THEN there's the process of transforming it into a pattern fit for sewing; cut by either machine or human.
The drawing is made by an experienced tailor that has a tried and true pattern. A first drawing is made. A prototype is produced. Adjustments and changes are made to the drawing and pattern. Once approved, the pattern is digitized then cut out.
Because like glasses, it’s a necessity. And also because they still are fussy to make - still many steps and lots of fabric, and time involved. The fabrics used are still fairly good quality most of the time.
This video should be titled "How a mass manufactured suit is made" or "Making suit using minimal skilled labor". To present this as THE way suits are made is poor journalism. If you watch an Oxxford, Greenfield, Savile Row or any other traditional handmade tailoring video you will not see fusing equipment or robotics. If you want to be thorough show both ways, but hand stitching is always more flexible and supple than glue. I've been in the trade for 20 years and know both ways intimately.
@Bugatti4evr I wouldn't say this is even "cheap". This is ridicilous! I'm studying to become a tailor myself and this is shocking. I agree that if one want's a garment that fits like a glove, it must be done by hand. From start to finish.
I'm afraid we're way past clothes being merely a skin covering. They have other functions. Dressing poorly isn't a moral crime or character stain, but if you think people don't react differently to what you wear you're very naive. Like any products there is a difference between cheaply made clothing and quality clothing and not just price.
There’s only one problem with those suits. That problem is they’re made by perfect machines for perfect people. You need imperfect people making suits for imperfect people and that’s why you should go custom custom it’s not much more expensive than a regular off the rack suit you can get it off the rack suit for $900 you get custom for 1200 you’re spending an extra $300 but you look like 1 million bucks.
@EmperorofTechnology LOL. you are pretty funny. I don't want to argue, but this is not a hand tailored suit. How do I know? Because I happen to work for a tailor in my spare time. Jeez, mo need for name calling.
I would say it's the exact opposite .. if you have to wear a suit on a daily basis, I think it's better to invest into a few well tailored suits, as you need it to fit as good as possible when wearing it everyday and the whole day
You're right that dress code is largely cultural propaganda. People should be able to dress as they want and not be judged, but we apprehend each other visually and judgements do get made. There's nothing wrong with dressing as you like, whether it's sweat pants or a very well-made suit. Isn't it just as bad to misjudge people who like well-made clothes?
Automation gone mad. So obsessed with automation that someone can't use a press machine to create trouser creases. Silicone-based perma-crease mixture! Jesus wept!
Yep, that's how a damn cheap suit for cheap people is made. It really can't be compared with a handmade suit. That damn strip silicon glue for the pants... U must be joking right?? This is an INSULT to any real tailor in this goddamn planet... I would always prefer to buy just one, REAL and classic italian handmade suit every 5 year rather than to spend money buying five of those damn industrial shitty suits per year... Come on...
It's by no means pompous to know the difference between something that looks like shit and something that doesn't. The 'suit' at the start of this video is cheap and nasty.
Nothing can beat a manual process,,,every single detail is carefully made by hand
Exactly. I'm learning how to hand-make suits and there are just soooo many things that this factory is cutting corners on.
Are all seams done by hand? FYI, I just watched a video with Jason Mamoa having a Henry Poole Savile Row suit made, and they showed a pocket being sewn by machine.
Nice work.good deal
ever since ive been 14 i love wearing suits/necties ans shinny shoes which is hard living in a drug pushing chav hood and now at 17 ive saved enought money to finaly buy my custom made suit im so happy :D
Not a necessity to feel good, but when I look good I know I definitely feel a little bit better about myself. When I'm in a shirt and tie, or a suite, and its crisply pressed and steamed, I have a bit more confidence in my step.
i love your shows
As a custom tailor, I find this as insulting and belittling to my trade. Making a suit, or any clothing is an art. Everyone is unique and different in some (even if it is the most minute) of ways. Machines are nice, for cutting time. But I will NEVER believe that they will truly stand up against the historic, time-old method of handmade tailoring. It lends perspective as to why a quality, hand-crafted, fully canvassed suit costs more than something like the suit that was displayed here: No canvassing, glue everywhere, made and given an average size. Due to the fact that they're made to fit every body type, it will never fir anyone especially well. Thank you, I'll get off my soap box now.
Can you teach me how to create a suit and what materials I need so i can compare the cost of making my own suit vs how much it would for me to buy one?
Thank you for saying this. I feel exactly the same way. Still, someone's banking off of this and driving the economy, so... whatever, I guess. It's not like we can stop them, ha.
i wish i could afford a hand tailored suit
i have a business inquiry if your services are available.
This kind of manufacturing suits by machine contributed to the decline in the interests in bespoke suits in the past few decades workldwide. I hate this way of making money.
Collar Master? ARE YOU SHITTING ME?????????? LOL
Interesting that the tailors are piping in here. You are talking about the difference between a Rolls Royce and a Toyota. Everyone would love to drive the best of the best, but most people can't (or won't) pay the prices. This is the same the suit in the video retails for $500. The pricing for a hand tailored, bespoke suit, start in the $1000 range and can get into the $5000 area. As in any product, it's all about the price/quality ratio.
more like $150
Genius. Thanks for for clearing that up.
They seem really, really proud of their "no human involvement"...what pieces of shit those suits are.
Can the video itself be downloaded and saved? There are users who are interested in knowing every step of this process.
I prefer the handmade look. I got a tailor to make a bespoke jacket cost a fair bit but worth every penny.
I watch this video every now and then to remind myself of why not to cheap out on suits. Many corners are being cut from the way the fabric is cut, to the machine sewing largely automated to eliminate skilled labour, and the cheap construction with the fusible interfacing. The cuts (really noticed it at several points in this video) and materials are usually pretty poor on the suits at this level as well. Obviously, off the rack garments aren't going to fit as well as a MTM or bespoke garment will, as they can account for things that off the rack simply can't. For me personally, I have broad shoulders against a slim waist, and a weird shoulder drop so my one arm is about 1/2" longer than the other. For these reasons, I don't fit into some cuts of off the rack suits very well, and almost always have to have the waist taken in a bit in the jacket.
Having said that though, there's many better options available for off the rack garments than the kind of suits pictured here. The main issues with these kinds of cheaper suits comes down to the fused interfacing. Simply put, an interfacing is a material placed between two layers of fabric to give it structure and rigidity. Very roughly speaking, interfacing can either be sewn into a garment, or glued into a garment (fusible type). The fusible types of interfacing generally work well when you want a lot of stiffness for something, e.g. some shirt collars use fusible interfacing so they maintain a stiff appearance. The only problem with fusible interfacing is that since it's attached to the fabric by means of glue, the glue can break down when exposed to heat, or just detach itself over time. This is quite a common problem in these suits, especially when they're exposed to heat and steam at the dry cleaners. I refuse to use fusible interfacing in my projects for this very reason. Some high quality fusible interfacing seems to be not too bad at staying attached (especially in some shirts), but in a suit of this level it's a mathematical certainty that the fusing used isn't going to be very good. Unlike a shirt collar, a jacket needs to be soft enough so that you can move around in it with ease, but also stiff enough so that structure is maintained. The other issue that arises with using fusible interfacing in a jacket, is that it tends to stiffen the jacket up a little bit too much. When you have that fusing in the chest area, it creates an insulating layer that isn't very breathable and doesn't move as easily as it could. Not to mention, fused jackets tend to have rather stiff lifeless lapels (poor lapel roll) that look cheap and unnatural when compared to canvassed jackets. A lot of the women's "blazers" they sell these days at the mall, are the prime example of a cheap, lifeless lapel.
As for the bit when they put silicone in the pants crease, that's called a "super crease." It basically makes the trousers leg crease a little bit more permanent, so it doesn't need to be ironed as much. Just like with the fusing, it has a finite number of dry cleaning cycles it can withstand. Some tailor shops have the equipment to add "super creases" to pants, but this is the first time I've seen a pair come right from the factory with one already in place. It gives the impression that these suits are being marketed to the person who only has to wear a suit begrudgingly a few times a year, and who doesn't care about quality, aesthetics and lacks the patience to iron anything.
If you're dead set on off the rack, I'm convinced that Samuelsohn provides a very good value for the price. You get a fully canvassed garment made out of really nice fabrics, it's made by skilled labour in North America, hand sewing where it really matters like in the sleeves/armholes and horn buttons. Many of their suits are sold with un-hemmed sleeves as well. I think as far as value goes, if you were to go to a higher level of off the rack suit, you'd be better served by a high-calibre MTM service or bespoke. Balfour Clothing has many good offerings of both. Many nice vintage examples can be found of both if cost is an issue. Other brands worth looking into that give a decent quality, or a good value for the price are Paul Betenly, Suitsupply and Spier and MacKay. These give a mix of half and full canvas constructions.
Cool video nonetheless!
Gluing a seam? No. Hand or machine STITCH only
you feel good to look good, often!
Barney Stinson favorite video..
I have only ever owned 1 of those off the rack cheap suits I had to catch a flight in a hurry got in taxi to airport felt a glued seem under the arm give way thought I could live with that for now got on plane as I sat down the seam on the inside of leg gave way had to get a safety pin from stewardess to make a fix got to london went and splurged on a Versace suit they loaned me a suit until mine was ready (some tailoring) that was 5yrs ago still have suit I feel great wearing it, quality tops
haha nice!
Not all suits are made by machines, those are the more "generic" ones. If someone wants something fancy they have to get it made for themselves. The machines allow mass production and $ flow.
@onio1 well it actually is... i dont think it's talking about looking beautiful, because everyone has a different expectation of beauty.. but if you think you look good in your OWN way, then you obviously feel good :D i hope i could explain myself better but i can't lol soo i hope u undertand what im saying :)
indeed u are good, one day i am bringing such machine to my country nigeria
Did it work? :)
High Street suit for men who only look at the price tag .
There are so many options out there nowadays in the land of online / boutique tailor stores that have high hand made quality for a fair price . Not Savile Row but very very good and a world away from glued suits . Try and i bet you will never want to put on a glued & machine sewn suit again ...
Michael Weston its not that some of us just look at the price tag..most of us have to look at the price tag.im sure every guy here myself included would like to afford a custom hand tailored suit.best we can hope for is buying a suit that more or less fits right and taking it somewhere for some adjustments to be made to it..
Ya Boi Trapezius : absolutely . I too look at the price tag and have learned through experience that for a similar price of a “ high street shop “ suit , that you CAN get high quality and tailored fit by checking online / online plus stores suit companies .. I would suggest taking a look at Suit Supply , a Dutch company with a high end reputation .
Finding the perfect suit for graduations is so important.
Damn!!!... You have to read the comments. My lungs hurt!.
This its sewing this, this is throwing together fabric on a medal machine laziness, Tailors create art with with fabric, love, patience, hard work and caring for their clients.
@EmperorofTechnology
I don't own a Brioni. But I do own a made to measure one by Jack Victor. Simlair quality. Why must you argue?
a tailor in my hometown
This is why tailors like me will always have work .... nothing better than customizing with human hands
custom suit from where?
tell me how v for vendetta suit is made??
I had a hand made suit done for me in the Philippine for $40. I got to pick everything I wanted right down to how many pockets and buttons.
So, a drawing is computerized and then cut out? Nope! The construction is an art and a craft that transforms the designers ideas into a pattern that shapes the fabric. There's both skill and a lot of technicality to it. Then there's fitting. And sizing. THEN there's the process of transforming it into a pattern fit for sewing; cut by either machine or human.
The drawing is made by an experienced tailor that has a tried and true pattern. A first drawing is made. A prototype is produced. Adjustments and changes are made to the drawing and pattern. Once approved, the pattern is digitized then cut out.
this video could be called The reason why you should give bespoke a serious thought
If they're all made by machine now, WHY ARE SUITS STILL SO EXPENSIVE???
Owldude000 this man right here deserves the noble peace prize...#absolutetruth
Because like glasses, it’s a necessity. And also because they still are fussy to make - still many steps and lots of fabric, and time involved. The fabrics used are still fairly good quality most of the time.
In one word: PROFIT!
This video should be titled "How a mass manufactured suit is made" or "Making suit using minimal skilled labor". To present this as THE way suits are made is poor journalism. If you watch an Oxxford, Greenfield, Savile Row or any other traditional handmade tailoring video you will not see fusing equipment or robotics. If you want to be thorough show both ways, but hand stitching is always more flexible and supple than glue. I've been in the trade for 20 years and know both ways intimately.
whats the fun in having machines do all the sewing :(
the fun is in this way we can buy a suit that is not as expensive like a car.
@Bugatti4evr I wouldn't say this is even "cheap". This is ridicilous! I'm studying to become a tailor myself and this is shocking. I agree that if one want's a garment that fits like a glove, it must be done by hand. From start to finish.
I'm afraid we're way past clothes being merely a skin covering. They have other functions. Dressing poorly isn't a moral crime or character stain, but if you think people don't react differently to what you wear you're very naive.
Like any products there is a difference between cheaply made clothing and quality clothing and not just price.
There’s only one problem with those suits. That problem is they’re made by perfect machines for perfect people. You need imperfect people making suits for imperfect people and that’s why you should go custom custom it’s not much more expensive than a regular off the rack suit you can get it off the rack suit for $900 you get custom for 1200 you’re spending an extra $300 but you look like 1 million bucks.
This is the worst How it's made episode, if you are going to show how suits are made why show the budget suits..
@EmperorofTechnology
LOL. you are pretty funny. I don't want to argue, but this is not a hand tailored suit.
How do I know? Because I happen to work for a tailor in my spare time. Jeez, mo need for name calling.
I would say it's the exact opposite .. if you have to wear a suit on a daily basis, I think it's better to invest into a few well tailored suits, as you need it to fit as good as possible when wearing it everyday and the whole day
This are the weird horrible cyclope brothers of the suit
this looks really old...
Mid-late 00's, trust me I remember
I wouldn't even call this a suit. Maybe a "suit like object"? Seriously... gluing in a crease? Wow.
You're right that dress code is largely cultural propaganda. People should be able to dress as they want and not be judged, but we apprehend each other visually and judgements do get made. There's nothing wrong with dressing as you like, whether it's sweat pants or a very well-made suit. Isn't it just as bad to misjudge people who like well-made clothes?
And the same is true for shoes, maybe even more so
yeah.....
That suit at the beginning looks cartoonishly ill fitted
@excalebuir man in black :D
No cringey pun at the end? Oh well.
Clothes are not made well any more and they fall apart. I need to learn tailoring to get clothes that look good. This is why.
This is not exactly Brioni material...
Look up Brioni...
Total crap!! It'll fall apart after a few dry cleanings
Wrong!!! it will last a few years.
this is a really shit suit, nice job
Aaaaauh, that´s too much glue in one suit!!! A full canvas suit feels much better...
how tô make woman's skirt_
suit
Terrible puns.
Automation gone mad. So obsessed with automation that someone can't use a press machine to create trouser creases. Silicone-based perma-crease mixture! Jesus wept!
Try making A SUIT..... called "Nano-suit".. .xD
check out the game Crysis if you dont know..
well...if i look like shit, it certainly doesnt help me feel good...
Yep, that's how a damn cheap suit for cheap people is made.
It really can't be compared with a handmade suit.
That damn strip silicon glue for the pants... U must be joking right??
This is an INSULT to any real tailor in this goddamn planet...
I would always prefer to buy just one, REAL and classic italian handmade suit every 5 year rather than to spend money buying five of those damn industrial shitty suits per year... Come on...
This is how cheap suits are made.
Cheap suits are made this way...hideous products for a no nothing market. What a shame
I thought suits came from china
G
What sort of horror movie is this? i think I'm going to throw up. Proper suits are hand stitched and not glued together, yuk.
what the hell have they done? these are not suits. why would you wear one of these? you might as well go to an event naked.
I was like no way 5 minutes. Horrible these suits have no life
It's by no means pompous to know the difference between something that looks like shit and something that doesn't. The 'suit' at the start of this video is cheap and nasty.
son of a bitch sewing machines.....you came here and ruined everything
INSULT INDEED
Cheap ass suits
.. i do not like those suits.
those were some cheap ass suits
yuck.
that designer's either bored or hates his life