Thats brilliant. Slit the backing and then apply. However, the downside is that not all corners are actual. And if it is a stucco wall, you won't even bother slitting it. But I am for sure going to use this trick when possible.
I like using a stainless or carbon thin flexible mud blade cutting into corners; the blade has to be rounded over and sharp corners removed.It Works really well.
My answer would vary depending on the size of the vinyl and which part hits the obstruction. If it would only hit the left, top and right I would apply it all the way to the object, cut along that side, swing the vinyl up and around the top, cut, and then keep swinging it around the right side of the object until its all applied. I hope that helps. If not I can try and do a video explanation.
You wouldn’t want to. Air egress films cannot be applied wet or the moisture would stay in the channels, and you also don’t want to wet the drywall. The film doesn’t stick so much that it can’t be removed, I was just showing how to position your hand/the film so it doesn’t stick too early and you can get it down right to the cove base. I hope this helps!
@@stevethegraphicsguy Thats great to know steve, I'm still learning the vinyl world(4 years now). I do a lot of stickers and a small amount of signs. Keep up the work you're doing, I enjoy your videos!
It’s all good just wondering because my wife wants some accent wallpaper in a couple rooms. Running a small sign shop myself, I was going to try printing and tiling the install using un-laminated 40c m. My main concern is using an aggressive adhesive taking a lot of paint etc upon removal.
@@mac100percent Is there a good video or place to learn about tiling in Flexi before printing? Making sure prints and panels are accurate? @stevethegraphicsguy
And if there is a caulking bead, you aren't doing anything about it unless the customer is very clear and then has the caulking removed. Then install it and have the painters come back and recaulk.
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Thats brilliant. Slit the backing and then apply. However, the downside is that not all corners are actual. And if it is a stucco wall, you won't even bother slitting it. But I am for sure going to use this trick when possible.
glad you moved the mic down to chest level, so much better now
Haha. I appreciate the tips!
Awesome video Steve learned so much !!!!
Thanks Paul!
I like using a stainless or carbon thin flexible mud blade cutting into corners; the blade has to be rounded over and sharp corners removed.It Works really well.
Best tutorial out there! You should do one pre-paneling techniques Steve.
Great suggestion! I’m on it
Thank you this was great!:)
Glad you enjoyed it!
How do you attack this with cut vinyl and dealing with overlap for large graphic
My answer would vary depending on the size of the vinyl and which part hits the obstruction. If it would only hit the left, top and right I would apply it all the way to the object, cut along that side, swing the vinyl up and around the top, cut, and then keep swinging it around the right side of the object until its all applied. I hope that helps. If not I can try and do a video explanation.
@@stevethegraphicsguy the more videos the better right
❤❤❤
Thanks!
could you do a wet apply when getting to the bottom base board so it doesn't stick to it?
You wouldn’t want to. Air egress films cannot be applied wet or the moisture would stay in the channels, and you also don’t want to wet the drywall. The film doesn’t stick so much that it can’t be removed, I was just showing how to position your hand/the film so it doesn’t stick too early and you can get it down right to the cove base. I hope this helps!
@@stevethegraphicsguy Thats great to know steve, I'm still learning the vinyl world(4 years now). I do a lot of stickers and a small amount of signs. Keep up the work you're doing, I enjoy your videos!
What kind of controltac film are you using…40c?
3Mij180cv3. It may seem like overkill but it never fails!
It’s all good just wondering because my wife wants some accent wallpaper in a couple rooms. Running a small sign shop myself, I was going to try printing and tiling the install using un-laminated 40c m. My main concern is using an aggressive adhesive taking a lot of paint etc upon removal.
40C would probably be perfect for that!
@@mac100percent Is there a good video or place to learn about tiling in Flexi before printing? Making sure prints and panels are accurate? @stevethegraphicsguy
I just added this to my list!
And if there is a caulking bead, you aren't doing anything about it unless the customer is very clear and then has the caulking removed. Then install it and have the painters come back and recaulk.