Reduced loads for fun, and economy ~ Low recoil, low cost, more shooting!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Your magnum thunderpole can be as mild mannered as a lamb for plinking and small game shooting, with some simple techniques that you will learn about in this video. But, things have changed over the years that you may not be aware of. Don't simply reduce your standard loads, as this can lead to catastrophe. Learn the basic rules, and learn where you can obtain a wealth of published reduced load data, which is often ignored and rarely spoken of!
You Sir are a wealth of information, thank you for sharing and I for one greatly appreciate you taking the time to educates those of us who are much less knowledgeable. John
I too also appreciate the time and effort that you have expenced to share with us. You're a true statesman of the firearm community!
Sometimes I listen to this gentleman just to calm me down! Awesome stuff as always!
Yawn zzz
Absolutely, that's why I'm here.
GunBlue: I discovered your channel just four days ago, and have watched pretty well all of them. I'm in Brisbane, Australia and want to say that you're a Yank for whom I have the very greatest respect and admiration. What Sir David Attenborough is to Nature, you are to Firearms. I love your no-nonsense, down-to-earth narrative style; your knowledge is unsurpassed. Bravo, dear Sir. I'm of your vintage. I was brought up on stories of my European ancestors' hunting tales. I was introduced to shooting with a cheap Daisy air rifle at the age of six. In Australia, we have a schooling system know as the Cadets. It's for high school students aged 13 to 17. Our issued rifle was an SMLE Mk 3*. That was my introduction to centrefire shooting. I honed my skills on a Gecado medium-powered air rifle. This was supplemented by my four years in the Australian Army Reserve in the mid-'70s. In the time that I had decent eyesight, I wa a reasonable shot: I could manage a 1.75" three-shot group with our then FN FAL (military peep sight) in unsupported prone at 100 yards. I laughed with delight when, in one of your videos, you talked about the modern habits of bench shooting and 48" extended Harris bipods. These do not a marksman make. I'm certain I have your aesthetic sensibilities as well, and your respect for the magnificence of game and shooting within your limits. Love your work and would love one day to have a long fireside chat with you about our experiences - I know that's highly unlikely, but I see you as a kindred spirit. Thank you for your magnificent work and presentations. Robert
Robert Page
Robert, thank you for your kind words, that are greatly appreciated. Indeed, one of my greatest pastimes has been to sit and share an evening with someone about shooting. Much of my inspiration in doing these videos is to bring that experience to others who have never had that pleasure. Thank you for sharing time with me.
Robert Page try to set up a Skype!
Thanks a million, or more, for your generous provision of information. Have learned a great deal watching your videos. Despite having been a shooter and reloader for 30+ years pretty much every one of your episodes teaches me something new.
as always wonderful piece. your videos are very pleasurable after a stressful work day.
I am so glad I found this podcast ... one of these days I'm going to call up and visit his shop - I'm in Massachusetts but if I was in Pennsylvania it would still be worth the trip.
I'm in delco
Good information and safety advice, Thank You.
Thank you for sharing. Plinking used to be more popular than today. I shoot a cast 55 wgc in my service rifle. It's reduced to starting load and surprisingly accurate. I just single load and use them for off hand practice. I just loaded a bunch of 125 wgc for my 30-30. I got the load from an old manual. I really like reduced cast loads for fire forming cases for target shooting. I massage the new cases then take them plinking. I have fun. Get used to the rifle. And when I'm done I size and trim a batch of super premium cases.
I've been having trouble with a reduced load for a 121 year old Win 94. I bought a lead bullet that is to hard 18 BHN (my bad because I know better, but didn't check before buying) and it leads up bad in just a few rounds in both 30-30s using a Lyman's Unique load. When I saw this video I knew I would find answers. My state won't allow lead wheel weights anymore, and ordering lead is a pain, so I have just gone to the commercial lead bullets. I came here looking for a soft commercial 30-30 bullet, but learned I can use my jacketed bullets until I find one that will work. I love shooting that old rifle but don't want to beat on it. You gave me a new direction to go.
Thank you sir.
Thanks again on more great resources for hand loading. I appreciate your reliance on published data and liked your gauge for checking charges for single stage presses. I also have a better understanding of the sensitivity of the various types of powders for reduced loads and a better sense of tolerances. I have been a little concerned when seeing recommended Lee Dipper volumes less than the recommended starting grains (e.g. 300 SAV, 165 gr. for WIN 748) but now recognize that there is some variation for minimum loads for different types of powder.
That thing you did with a hinge pin is something I did in .30-06 with .300 inch drill rod to spot uncharged, undercharged or overcharged cases. I've used similar tricks with pistol rounds such as .44 Magnum and .45 ACP. THIS IS ONLY ONE OF THE CHECKS I USE TO DOUBLE-CHECK MY LOADS PRIOR TO SEATING THE BULLETS. I used caps to point out that the other checks are also important. Even with straight walled cases, something that is not quite right is easier to spot this way, especially with light charges of Hercules Unique or Bullseye.
The former cop made a powder cop. 😎 Love your vids, thanks!
Tremendously educational,......as always,.......Thank You Sir !
EVERYONE Needs to watch this , Brilliant content, A lot of people are trying to copy 300 black out . Love you Grand Dad 👍
went to the range today for the first time and I took my 1911 COMPLETELY DRY....NO OIL WHATSOEVER BUT it was well cleaned...spotless.....and I had ZERO hiccups and zero failure to feeds......u sir really do know ur stuff.....i m gonna clean it now but now I know that as long as it's clean u need no oil whatsoever...thanks once again for educating me
O man , he was referring to chamber area and barrel tube . The powder is an oxygen bearing material and the two do not mix well at all , but rapid firing Simi autos need a small amount of lube on load bearing surface's .
GunBlue - Enjoyed your discussion concerning reduced loads. I'm a new reloader (2017) and have only used Trail Boss. I reload 357 Mag, 44 Mag and 45-70 for my Sharps. It has worked get for me. I selected it for the reasons you mentioned in this video. Especially good for a new reloader, learning the process.
Most of the mature shooters at the range are always asking me what I use in that Sharps. It's quieter, no recoil to speak of and I'm shooting 30-40 rounds in a couple of hours. I walk away with a big smile. When I mention Trail Boss, they don't seem to be familiar with it. I will say it is a little finicky to dispense. Keep up your great videos, I enjoyed each and everyone I've seen. Thanks so much! :-)
L Krueger Trail Boss was developed specifically for reduced power loads with lead bullets- and is popular in cowboy action shooting. It is not very dense, and 5 pounds come in the same size jug that 8 pounds usually comes in.
Nice that it fills the case at lower charges, for more uniform ignition, and to make a double charge obvious.
I have found, however, Trail Boss is susceptible to static cling. If you start seeing variation from your powder measure, and flakes clinging to the side of the hopper- you might wipe the measure out with a dryer sheet.
Gotta get a Trail Boss manual and some 110 grain bullets to put together loads in .30-06 that I can use to introduce friends to centerfire rifle shooting with reduced recoil. I was introduced to. 30-06 in the Army with the M1 Garand. What I consider normal recoil would be a bit much for someone new to shooting.
I'm recommending this video, as a reminder of a BIG mistake he made some years ago, to a friend of mine. He jumped into reloading with both feet and a high limit credit card some years ago. My friend, who nowadays approaches his reloading tasks with the care of a bomb disposal specialist or a diamond cutter, read an article in a second or maybe third tier gun magazine of the day where the staff "expert" on reloading stated that EITHER cream of wheat OR FLOUR could be used in the production of reduced loads. I knew from watching the very first video of yours I stumbled across that you had been reloading and shooting for a while so I don't have tell you how well using flour as a "filler" worked out for my friend when he used the lowest charge of powder recommended by the manual AND then filled in the "dead space" with flour before seating the bullet (it ended up being a rather compressed load needless to say). Thankfully my friend was not injured when he triggered off that first, and only, gunpowder + flour compressed load. I've seen the early 1990s era video of that shot.....It was/is impressive....Along the lines what you would expect to see when a WWII battleship fires off a 16in HE round....My friend was very fortunate, in my opinion at lest, that he was not injured and that the lever action rifle he fired it in was capable of handling what I'm sure were impressive, possibly dangerous, pressures. Keep up the excellent videos as I have come to depend on them for not only entertainment but for their educational content.
I like the way you rack that lever. Gotta love them older model 94s. A person can use the centerfires for rabbit hunting with head shots with the reduced loads, so long as they are in an area where richochets are not a problem. The 30 30 m 94 can get a little barky to the shoulder and cheekbone with the lever evoloution loads. Reduced loads make it a lot more fun.
Thanks. Always enjoy your info.
Kenneth G Maiden jii
Trail boss powder is the best I've used. I make suppressed loads with it, and Hodgden claims you can't over charge a case with it I made some loads for a 25-06with it and it's pretty accurate. Hodgden list min and max charges and some of the big arm breakers are like shooting a 22 mag. The powder fills a case well
God bless you. Another useful information
Thank you. As usual I leave one of your episodes less ignorant than I arrived.
very true... take heed of what he said. That primer is going set of a area which is 5x larger than it could have if there was a high capacity load.
Thanks very much for this! It never occurred to me to use cast bullets for reloading. I'm just starting to get into reloading myself, but I'm looking forward to trying this. All the best!
I'd also recommend using caution with minimum loads. I had an issue with minimum charge .38 Special 158 gr. LSWC and Trail Boss powder. From personal experience, the minimum charge of 2.7 gr. ( via Hodgdon's load data ) tends to produce squib loads in 4 inch revolvers ( a S&W Model 67 in my case ). They work fine in a snub nose though.
JSmunitions I run 3.7 and 125 cast swc in 357 mag, which works well.
Trail Boss seems to be particularly susceptible to static cling, especially in low humidity. You might see one throw from a powder measure a grain light, and the next one a grain heavy.
Not saying that would be your squib, but if you see powder clinging to the side of the powder hopper, and an unusual degree of variation from your powder measure, try wiping the inside of the hopper and drum with a dryer sheet.
I'm loving your case charge level gage, thank you very much. I also agree completely on the use for cast bullets and some jacketed pistol bullets with reduced power loads. This has allowed me to enjoy shooting my Winchester single shot .405 Winchester. I use H4198 successfully in the .405 reduced loads.
One of my favorites for reduced loads also. In most cases a double charge will overflow the case, which provides am adde
ded measure of safety. Thanks for commenting! ❤
Very informative video on low cost reduced loads. I've probably shot several thousands of those using various bullets an weights I cast myself using mainly Bullseye and Red Dot in my 30-30.300 Sav. 7.62 x 39 & 54r rifles and there are several other powders that will work just as well. If you want to shoot cast lead reduced loads the Lyman Cast Bullet manuals are a must,you just want find that data for reduced loads in any other manuals.
your videos are very pleasurable Sir
Great video. I’ve used cast bullets to reduce 9mm and today some 30-30 loads. I don’t know that I’ve saved any money, but a pound of powder will last MUCH longer. As hard as powder is to find it’s a great way to stretch it.
JUST watched your episode on the Weatherby Mark V and your take on George Burns gave me a great chuckle. I am NOT a hunter by past history. At 64, not likely to be able to for too many more years but recently acquired a Winchester 70 30-06 and took it to the range to site in in anticipation of a hunting trip. After about 15 shots, let me tell you, it left my shoulder black and blue for about 3 weeks. It has clearly left me wanting for a gentler mule. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, and I would like to say I hope you are able to keep putting out your great material for a long long time.
Another great video. Trailboss is one of my favorite powders because it make a double charge very difficult. Trailboss comes in 8oz containers but it's usually 18 dollars a bottle around here. That makes it about 8 dollars a pound more expensive than other powders I use however I feel it's worth it for the extra safety and convenience. I use it a lot in my 458 win mag with 500 gr cast bullet I get 1070 fps with 90 percent case fill. Very accurate and fun to shoot, recoil is very mild.
Another AWESOME video , thanks . I gotta get myself some reloading books . Would be nice , but never needed them for reloading 1 caliber , just Googled what I needed , even sometimes from the bullet manufacturer . I did buy at the time a couple boxes of 500 cast 45ACP for real cheap on a closeout , and found from Clays how to load cast from them . Worked . Not Good not Bad , but worked , and enjoyed shooting them , still have a few hundred loaded form YEARS ago . Need to burn through them so I can do some more reloading .
Fabulous video...will obtain the book!
thank you again. i believe that any trouble encountered might maybe in component substitution if you follow these guides. bearing surface can, i believe, be a problem--how much, i don't pretend to know. i would say, as with shotshell reloading, never assume the same weight bullet might be as safe as the SPECIFIC projectile and primer being tested, and in the shotshell add the type of hull as well. i may be full of it and over cautious if there is such a thing, but i wish everybody to approach reloading with lots of caution.
Funny. Back during the ammo scare, I stockpiled tons of reloading equipment: bullets, powders, cases, primers, brass, even a shot shell reloading system, etc. I even bought back up presses and dies. During this time, there were shortages of certain bullets. Not to be denied, I also bough tons of casting equipment including dies for various bullets, lubing and sizing equipment, the works. Other than casting some 000 buckshot, which I load for home defense, I haven't even opened most of the boxes that the equipment came in. I haven't cast a single bullet. But there it is, among all my Zombie Apocalypse equipment: The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. I can't wait to load up a few and test them on the chronograph.
Case in point : in my .30 carbine ( 1944 ) I used 7.5 gr of BlueDot. This failed to cycle the action. Hence , I upped it to 12 gr of IMR-4227 and it fires just fine , accuracy was not affected either . Being recoil sensative , in my 45/70 Pedersoli 1873 , I use 24 gr of IMR-4227 or 34 gr of IMR-4198 behind 300 gr projectile , recoil is 1/2 factory. All my reloading is 5-10 % below Minimum book charge .
I shoot Cowboy Action and along with everyone else I shoot reduced loads. I use 38 special with HMR 700X powder and 3.0 grains with a 115 grain bullet. I can shoot 1000's of rounds a year without breaking the bank. ( plus, I load my own ! ) thanks for all the good information 😃🔫
Love all your videos. Would really like to see moee videos on how to shoot. Thanks for all you do. God bless.
Frank Corio
Cutting sod around my yard right now so I can get my bark mulch down, but will be working on that. Thanks.
You can’t use cast bullet data with jacketed bullets and you shouldn’t be telling people to substitute components like that. You can easily stick a jacketed bullet in the barrel using cast bullet data! Sites like Hodgdon usually have reduced load data for jacketed bullets.
Thanks for the great info!
Hey GunBlue! Can't wait to watch this. I'm having good success with cast 223! -- except for one thing. The loads that work well and shoot pretty accurately are leaving some unburned powder. These even cycle a semiauto. I just need to solve the unburned powder problem!
Old A , Missouri bullet is having big success with there powder coated bullets and reasonable cost . Thanks be
Excellent. Thank you.
Thank you for another informative video
Unique,Greendot, ect Fast Pistol Powder works great for plinkers for example my 30-30 squirrel/rabbit load consists of 4gr Greendot, 2gr Polyfil (Pillow Stuffing) and a .309-.310 Buckshot (approx 45gr wt) just pressed into the mouth with a thumb so it doesn't fall out and cycles, if the Shot has a sprue put it on the inside. The polyfil is used to hold the powder to the primer. That is how I got my kids to start shooting larger calipers than .22. The larger the Cartridge the more the powder but I typically stop at 5.5gr and adjust the Polyfil to fill the case typically up to 3.5gr for a .300WM Fun Stuff, and they're screamers. Also I love a 32 35 cal Rifle because I can use light loads and pistol boolits .45 is fun too if you patch.
Hodgdon actually publishes a document regarding reduced loads. They recommend either using H4895 (NOT IMR 4895) or Trail Boss.
H4985 is IMR4895 now same made all by Hodgdon
Wireman134 my manuals still show different loads for the IMR
The old H-4895 is different from the current H-4895 as well. The differences in any powder from lot to lot are often as much or greater than any difference you are likely to see between IMR and H versions of 4895. I have used both interchangeably for many, many years in a variety of cartridges and never had a whisper of a problem. I will concede, however, that I should have stated that one start at minimum and work up with ANY powder, and even with new lots of the same powder. Sierra bullets say go for it, you can interchange data
@@Wireman134 Hodgdon VERY SPECIFICALLY states H4895. They DID NOT apply this to IMR 4895.
Thank you!
Thank you.....great information clearly needed.
You might want to mention at some point, the Lee Reloading Manuals 1 and 2 (before the 2017 update) which have a complete chapter with discussion and tables of reduced loads - claimed to have been worked in cooperation with Hodgdon. I note that Hodgdon in their Reloading Data Center still endorse reduced loads with H-4895, down to 60% of any maximum load for which H-4895 is already listed. The Speer manual version 13 lists reduced loads for many cartridges. Western Powder in their load data also offer some reduced loads. In addition, their Accurate 5744 - which is likened to the no longer available SR-4759, is said to be useful for almost any cartridge. Accurate provided this guidance:
"1) Fill the case to the base of the bullet with AA 5744 and weigh the charge.
2) Multiply the charge weight by .4 to get a 40% load. So 100gr. x .4 = 40gr.
3) Tinker as necessary to find an accurate load."
I have used this to good effect for .338 Win Mag, .308 Win, and Jap 7.7. These loads make shooting fun, and as you have mentioned in other videos about women (you're not being sexist -- you're referring to small statured shooters - which applies to me somewhat) being more comfortable with 7mm and 6.5 mm rounds. Me too.
I neglected you? Truly? Oh, pity sakes. The next time I do a video, I'll be sure to consult you.
@@GunBlue490 You have a large body of highly informative and useful instruction and perspectives. I certainly don't feel "neglected" - just suggesting the video could be more complete, and hence more useful to your wide audience. From my perspective, yours is a glass 99.9% full, and I'm just trying to add a little from my little corner of experience. I am a faithful subscriber, and wish you and yours the greatest success, and health through these trying times.
Nice apron! I love Central Grocery! The best muffuletta's in New Orleans.
Subsonic loads in many .30 cal cases Redot works well. 10gr Unique is universal reduced load. Cycling a autoloader is not the normal in reduced loads.
I notice in Lyman 49th edition 357 mag is listed in the rifle section but 38 special is only in the handgun section. Could I safely use these 38spcl loads in a lever action? thanks
As a fellow firearms enthusiast, I really enjoy watching your videos. They are very informative and I love the way you teach. Very classy and detailed. As a viewer of your channel, I know that you get requests for videos, so I figured I could throw in my two cents. I was wondering if you would like to go over the .220 Swift, 25-35 Winchester, .257 Weatherby Magnum, and the Rolls Royce of revolvers, the Colt Python. Here out West, the .220 Swift and .257 Weatherby Magnum are considered cult classics, generally seen only in the hands of a competent and knowledgeable rifleman. Thanks for the great videos, we all enjoy your style, being a genuine old school New Englander, and you've inspired me to get a Winchester Model 70 in .257 "Bob".
Very well conveyed.
This really cleared things up for me. May Jesus Christ bless you.
If loading on a Turret or Progressive and decap n Prime seperatley , it leaves a Station to put a Powder Check Die in as you reload, if no Charge or Dbl Charge before Bullet Seat Die the Check Die will lock up the Machine to Stop you going Further on the Machine
Two or three Vids on YT about it
Trailboss is great stuff
IMR PB is same burn rate but less bulk.
Terrific. Thanks.
In my previous comment I wasn't insisting you should fill one to the neck just sharing what Hodgden claims on trail boss powder. Gun blue has really good information to follow
Another very insightful video! Thank you! I have a question. Im working on putting together a gallery/ small game load for my .30-30. Im going to resize 71gr, .32cal, plated, pistol bullets to .308" . My question is, can i start with 150gr cast bullet data for the powder charge? Can i substitute a 71gr plated bullet for a 150 gr cast bullet?
I intend to make this a low velocity (1200 fps or so).
Thank you. As always, very informative and helpful. This will allow me to bring my Browning 300 Win Mag back out of the safe ;-) Just one quick question. Using your method for testing the powder loads with the hinge pin, great idea BTW, will enough powder adhere to the pin then be transferred between cases to substantially affect a reduced load?
ChuckRich
Wash it with Dawn dish detergent without rinsing, and dry it, which will eliminate static cling. Do that for funnels and your powder pan too. That's an old trick I learned many years ago. No, there's no transfer.
Thank you for your prompt and helpful response.
Working at both Dow and DuPont where these highly refined compounds are produced I remember it is important and you make a good point remembering it's where in the process static charges could be generated . In other words , electronics - of cores magnetics play a part in anything so highly refined over such a broad area .
Use of Brass /glass /Stainless Steel , any non furious materials should be considered when working with explosives and any sensitive process involving static charges even down to relative humidity can come into play in an accident . I say grounding during the process is vital , thank you for bringing it to our attention . Thanks be
Ha ha! I'm afraid my attention span is only 10 mins. It's youtube's fault. Thx though. I'm progressively shifting over to Trail Boss for almost everything for a fun, economical, accurate and low noise/recoil shooting experience. I've even made up .223/5.56 NATO loads with Trail Boss. Kinda like a .22 mag.
eqlzr2 what would you load into .38 special? My wife bought a Derringer and wants it not to hurt!
Number 1: If she doesn't want it to hurt, my did she buy a .38 spl derringer? Plenty of derringers in .22 or .22 magnum that would work great. Number 2: Hodgdon has reload data for Trail Boss powder on their website. Please check there and follow their instructions to the letter. Thx!
Often the load data for a particular bullet weight varies quite considerably between a bullet manufacturer's handbook and the powder manufacturer's handbook, especially when it comes to minimum and maximum loads. Whose data would you rely on?
Adam Jacob
Well, powder and bullet makers approach the same issue from different directions, which can expectedly yield varied results. Sometimes, greatly varied. The bullet maker deals with two constants; his bullets, and a particular powder. The powder maker deals with one of the two; his powder, that must be assigned to the gross variable of any bullet maker (except when he lists specifics). Also, they can easily be testing powders and primers from different brands and lots, and may easily be using guns with varied bullet jump to the rifling. The answer is simply to understand that either sources are valid for their test conditions, but neither are valid for your gun until you work up loads according to standard practice. Your gun will likely fall into the data given by one of the two, or perhaps not. I unfortunately see on line where many folks take a page of loading data and presume that the top charge is safe for shooting in their gun, when the manuals all clearly state that such is not the correct approach, and they earn that maximum charges must be carefully approached according to practices that every handloader must abide. There is also a presumption that one book's data is superior because it lists faster loads, which is absurd. A gun can only shoot the velocity that is built into it when using safe loads, and there is no such thing as better data. Test guns all employ varied barrel lengths, which are often different from the other lab, and are almost always longer than factory guns. So, to answer your question, find the load that is at least five percent below the lower of the two sources, and work up in increments approaching the maximum listed. You may or may not get to the stronger data, but more importantly, you should be seeking accuracy, not a velocity. 20 feet per second is only worth about five yards of downrange performance, at best.
As a new reloader, thank you for your advice and for sharing your knowledge. Cheers.
hopefully you will reply to my question watched yer video love them all i am a former new englander now living in florida. my question is this do i understand you on this point?you can substitute a copper jacketed bullet weighing the same as lead projectile from a cast bullet load recipe?and load safely?would greatly appreciate an answer as i can appreciate your time
i came up with a fantastic 223 load for my bolts but wont cycle my ar's,,,,, 5.5 grain titegroup with 55 grainers,,,,, taching 1560
Be very cautious with that load. Such small charges are easily doubled, with very bad results. Autoloader guns require specific charges of specific powders in specific burning rates in order to cycle.
@@GunBlue490 been reloading for 25 years so I am some what experienced
338 winchester mag loaded withe red dot or unique or green dot 12 ish grains. Safe? It is in the (old) lyman cast bullet handbook but seems like it would be low power
Since those old publications, much has been learned about safe powder density in rifle cartridges. Red Dot is NOT a safe powder to use in such a massive case, regardless of amount, and can easily result in detonation, and your Unique load is nothing near its current Lyman listing.
Please obtain a current Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook before proceeding.
@@GunBlue490 I actually only have a new manual but the limited data made me go search for a digital copy of the old 1. I have the lee mold listed but also have a lyman mold and needed data for it because lyman no longer list it. That is how I found that data, I have not used it however it was in the works just looking for primers. I did however contact lyman about those loads being no longer listed asking why they were no longer listed. But have yet to get a response.
Dear Sir, I love your videos and would like to ask a question. After reloading your ammunition can one tumble the ammunition to clean it up?It sounds like an idiot question but there are so many wildly differing views on the internet that even asking would turn up totally confusing answers.
Matthys J Uys
I would not. Assembled ammo is made to have very uniform dimensions that could potentially be changed with excessive handing, especially with the added weight and leverage of the bullet and powder. It would not harm the ammo in any way, which is intended to work through rifle actions, but it cannot help it keep straight either. I see no point whatsoever in polishing loaded ammo, except perhaps with a cloth.
GunBlue490 thank you so much your advice is greatly appreciated.
Tumbling loaded ammo is a bad idea for another reason as well, if we tumble it we are also tumbling the powder, breaking it down in various ways. What do you think would happen if you took a slow burning powder and ground it down into smaller and smaller pieces, effecting the total surface area, also think about the coatings or additives that area added to stabilize the powder, what happens if we disturbed that? Boom.ask me what happened to a friend of my Grandpa, that had loaded some standard pressure 357 loads that had fancy self defense bullets and never fired the second box. Just kept it in his truck (old Dodge) for 15 years or so because they were only fancy self defense (expensive) he forgot he even had them there for long time. One day, realizing the foolishness of keeping "precious" never to be used except in case of emergency. He went to shoot them up.........Boom. He asked my grandpa (who was hanging out at The Gift House,what he thought might have happened. Grandpa pulled a bullet off one of them with a pair of pliers, dumped out the powder on a piece of paper, then used a spoon to get a sample from an unopened can, placed it next too it. He explained that having that rattling around in his old dodge for so long had caused it to break down and not be the same. The friend just threw the box away as he walked past the end of the counter. The useless S&W revolver was never repaired.I think Brasso and a rag will give you a better, safer finished product, if your into that sort of thing.
Enjoy watching all your videos Sir. Question: would lowering the powder load correct the issue if the primers stick out slightly after shooting the 30-30 shells? My Marlin 1893 is 103 years old. May be wear on the bolt causing headspace to be widen? Appreciate your experience and advice!
Louis Yong
I recommend that you have your headspace checked by a gunsmith. He should charge you no more than ten bucks, and he can do it in ten seconds, if he has slow reflexes. The 30-30 headspaces on the rim. Excess headspace is a serious issue and can absolutely mean that a rifle is severely weakened or damaged. However, backed out primers can also be caused by excessively weak powder charges that do not rebound the case back against the bolt face and reseat the primer. No matter what, have your gun checked, or you might get a nasty surprise. It's not at all uncommon for old guns to have been subjected to stress and weakening over so many years.
GunBlue490 thank you Sir. It's great to know that it won't be expensive for the gunsmith to diagnose the problem. That's what I'll do.
How do I know max and min for a bullet weight that has no listed data for a given powder type? I am trying to load .243 using 88 gr Berger bullet with H380 powder, but Hodgdon only lists loads for either 85 gr or 90 gr bullets for that particular powder. Should I do a linear interpolation to find the charge or use the data of closest weight which is the 90 gr bullet?
Steve
Always use the next greater weight bullet: 90 gr8.
(Although, just between ye and me, 85 grain is close enuff that I use that data as well, no problems, use starting data and work up).
@@fjb4932 Thanks! I am glad I got the Hornady Bullet Puller! Otherwise I am looking at a lot of pounding with the kinetic puller tonight.
Sir, does the rock island gi 1911 have a free floating pin? It's a 70 series but I was wondering if it had a heavier firing pin spring like the ruger sr1911? I ask because it's a much less expensive gun and wondered about the safety of carrying. Thank you so much for your insight.
J D
I'm sorry, but though I know the specifics of many guns made, I simply do not attempt to keep up with the literally hundreds of guns and subtle variations of every maker and model. I can advise you to simply do as I would do before considering any purchase and investigate the manufacturer's own specifications, which most manufactures post on line. It's important to understand that Ruger's SR1911 firing pin design is not only the spring, but also the titanium pin itself, in combination, which, together, prevents unwanted strikes. I'm sure Rock Island even has a technicians line as part of customer service that you can call.
GunBlue490 thank you for your knowledge!
I have had horrible luck with reduced loads. I don't think I have enough spin to stablize the bullet. .30-30 10 gr Unique 135 gr cast
Jack Powell
Cast bullet loads generally work best with heavier bullets, because the short ones have very little bearing surface in the shallow rifling and quick twist that is designed for higher speed counterparts. Before you give up, try 170 grain cast bullets, which are typically very accurate with reduced 30-30 loads. My 32 Special shoots 175 grain bullets at almost any velocity quite nicely, and it's the same case, necked up. Also, cast bullets with long bearing surfaces and blunter shapes work better. It's a different world with cast, and the game changes.
30-30's usually have a 1:12 twist bore and will stabilize cast lead bullets from personal experience of 90 grs. to 200 grs. without issue. The 1:12 twist also allow you to shoot 170 gr. cast lead of the proper dia. an BHN at jacketed bullet velocity with excellent accuracy because the 1:12 twist keep the bullet within the RPM threshold while the same cartridge with a 1:10 twist bore accuracy will drop off at around 1900 fps. I generally throttle mine back to around 1800 to 1900 fps. All my 30 cal. US rifles do best with bullet sized to .311"
Good point Tim , powder burn rates play into it as much as bullet weight addressing a particular twist .
Just saw your vid, I to have a .32 win. Special, what are your reduced loading for 150 lead?
dbelex
I refer you to a trusted loading manual such as Lyman's or Lee for cast bullet data. I stand by my firm warning to everyone that only loads from published, tested sources be used. I have no control over anyone's use of information, so I make no recommendations. You will find many good loads in those books that are safe and accurate.
GunBlue490 - On the Hornady website under their load data for 357 magnum, I look at 2 different types of bullets that both use the same powder. In example one, its a 158 gr. Hornady XTP bullet using HP-38 and a starting load of 6.2 grains. In example 2, its a 158 grain Cast LSWC using the same powder, but the starting load for it is 3.4 grains. Here's the kicker, however. I want to shoot CamPro bullets which are a copper plated lead bullet with a plating thickness of 0.008" The CamPro website says to substitute their bullets with other recipes that call for FMJ projectiles. They too provide a recipe using HP-38, but their recipe calls for the same charging load as the Hornady XTP bullet of 6.2 grains. I really want to shoot reduced load in the 357, and I really want to use the information that Hornady gives for the Cast LSWC, but I am very nervous doing so. What are your thoughts? Thanks. Jim
Jim Dent
The answer to the matter is because Hornady lead bullets are swaged lead cut from relatively soft wire, and are not cast of a hard alloy. For that reason, velocities are limited to 950 feet per second, while cast bullets made from harder alloys that can be driven at jacketed velocities. Copper bullets are also swaged, but have the protection of the plating that allows higher velocities. I have used many copper plated bullets and have found lead bullet data works fine. With few exceptions being the slowest burning pistol powders such as H110 and Win. 296, pistol powders ignite easily and don't have issues with detonation. However, excessively reduced loads can result in sticking a bullet in the barrel, which is a very dangerous situation if another shot follows. You may follow either lead or jacketed bullet data. Plated bullets should not be roll crimped at all, though you can use a light taper crimp.
Thanks GunBlue you are a plethora of information.
Hey there sir....i know u own a ruger sr1911..do u have a full length guide rod on there with a hex key take down? my Springfield 1911 has that kind and u wanna change it to a Wilson combat full length guide rod or should I go GI or jst leave my gun alone? I want ur input on this matter due to ur abundant knowledge on firearms.
oscar rodriguez
The SR1911 has standard 1911 construction, which never had a full length rod. I demonstrated it in the takedown video. Standard 1911s work just fine and can have great accuracy without a full length rod.
Any experience with ramshot tac & 223 Remington pushing a 55 grain fmjbt?
No, but the burning rate is positioned at the slow end of the powders generally used with good results. It's slightly faster than Varget and H4895 and IMR4895, and slower than Winchester 748. It's the same rate as H335, which generally works very well with that bullet weight. I don't get too hung up on powders. They can all work well. Try CFE223 with that bullet, which has been accurate in three rifles of mine, and it's made for that bullet and cartridge, giving the top velocities for military use.
lee powder dipers are 10percent less
I am worried about leading up my rifle barrels.
Using bullets of the correct alloy together with gas checks on their base and staying within the correct velocity for cast bullets will prevent leading of any kind. Of course, jacketed bullets may be used at reduced velocities, too. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook provides detailed information on reduced loads and bullet alloys for all rifles and handguns.
👍👍👍
Is that an RCBS or Redding powder measure?
Rumrunner 1
It's a 45 year old RCBS Uniflo using the small rifle drum, and measures precisely, with great consistency.
any suggestions for reduced deer loads for a 6.5 lb (wow) Mossberg Patriot 375 Ruger?
any suggestions, referrals would be appreciated thanks much, am glad I found your channel!
ed swede
Yup, wow. The greatest problem is the limited bullet weights made for the caliber, which are all very heavy. Though I occasionally mention a particular load that I use, which are generally widely used, I simply cannot recommend load data. And copyright laws prevail with regard to reprinting stating published loads. However, I do recommend that you consult the Lyman Cast Bullet book, as described in my video. You can also contact any of the bullet and powder makers via phone or email, and they will be glad to lend advice, which may be based on direct experience. Try Hornady and Hodgdon, as I believe they helped create the round.
thank you much, quick ramble; since my first NRA magazine about 47 years ago I have been desiring a 375 HH just because., Finn Aagard and his writing got me so motivated I just had to have one. Sportsmansguide had the synthetic stock 375 ruger for a ridiculous 315(?) so guess who ordered one!. Thanks again for the help.
found a table for recoil on line, should be about 56 lbs if no steel mounts rings and scope, the superformance (cheapest I could get my hands on) should ring my bells a little,LOL
Hodgon has a simple formula for reduced loads with trail boss.
Any recommendations for downloading a 7mm rem magnum??
Trail boss pdf has a load for various rifles 7mm rem mag included.
running low pressure in ur rifle ,eg 50,000 instead of 55,000 in 223 at min loads any comments
Those are not particularly low pressures. The .222 Remington runs at significantly lower standard pressures down in the 40's, and achieves velocities that are not far behind the 223. In fact, a 22 inch .222 can easily chronograph higher velocity than a .223 with a 16 inch barrel. The only concern is when pressures drop below the operating parameters of auto-loading rifles that can cause various issues such as insufficient bolt travel, poor ejection, and failures to eject and feed. If your rifle is operating fine, or if you are using a manually operated rifle, it's a non-issue, and you'll reap the rewards of longer case life, and longer barrel life.
Generally speaking, pressures have nothing in common with velocity. One powder operating at top pressure can have lower velocity than another powder that is cruising at significantly lower pressures. It's easily seen by just looking at the relationships of velocities and pressures in any loading page.
My only suggestion if you are fond of reduced pressure loads and if you are using them with an auto-loading rifle, reliability will vary with different powders due to burning rate timing. For instance, quicker powders such as H322 and IMR-4198 can sometimes cause operation issues even at standard pressures, though their accuracy may be top drawer, because they burn quicker than the pressure timing that the gun was designed for. Hope that helps.
I tried reduced loads below book ... problem was that cases were not sealing properly in the chamber and there were gases creeping back on the outside of the case.
That's correct. You cannot simply charge below the recommended book level with powders listed because pressures will be insufficient to expand the brass. With some powders, it can even cause dangerous detonation or hangfires. Reduced loads that are below the stated loads require special quicker burning powders designed for that purpose, which are listed in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. They can be used with either cast lead alloy or jacketed bullets. Such powders have designations as SR4759, SR7625, IMR4227, IMR4198, N-130, RX7, 5744, 2400, Unique, PB, Trail Boss, and certain shotgun powders like Blue Dot, Green Dot, and Red Dot. With such quick burning powders, adherence to the listed loads is absolutely vital. Most of these powders can be easily overcharged and will dismantle a gun. Another challenge that reduced loads present is that the trajectories are sometimes lower than the factory sight adjustment range, which requires a lower front sight, or a higher rear one.
Hodgon has a PDF (google or duck duck) for reduced loads of many calibers and powder
Thinking of playing with this idea on a .223 REM. Not an AR, but a single shot Handi-Rifle with a 1:12 barrel. Generally speaking, a 55 grain bullet is about all it can stabilize with that twist, even at 3000+ FPS. Normally I use a 45 grain. Tried some 62 grain bullets and while they didn't keyhole or anything, accuracy was off. Found a recipe for Trail Boss in the .223shell with a 55 grain bullet that goes out at only about 1100 but I wonder if that's fast enough with the slow barrel? Costs little to try at my end but I don't have enough experience to make a prediction.
You ever tried the online stability calculators that factor the bullets, the twist and the velocity to predict stability?
Jim Allen
Please watch my rifling twist video, for starters. Let me state first of all that twist technology was invented and perfected when it was first cut into barrels in the 19th Century with black powder muzzle loaders. On line calculators use facts developed long ago by our great great grandfathers; not the other way around. It's impossible for me to assess your shooting conditions, but I can assure you that 55 grain lead core bullets are routinely stabilized with 14 inch twist, even at 222 Remington velocities, and 12 inch twist is more than sufficient, even with long military boat tail profiles, which was the original M16 configuration for lead core jacketed bullets in the Vietnam era. Even the original prototype used 14 inch just fine, as it does with bolt action varmint rifles in that caliber, but was increased in anticipation of using less dense, longer bullets such as tracers. Stories that twist was quickened due to lack of stability in thin arctic air is laughable, because cold air is denser and favors lift, which any pilot knows, and stability is a gyroscopic matter that has nothing to do with air density. The use of non lead bullets is a game changer, whether steel core military penetrators or solid copper. Weight is NOT the issue. Twist is related to LENGTH. Accuracy issues are very often blamed on twist and stability, which is very often incorrectly placed blame. Many factors can affect accuracy, but 12 inch twists will always stabilize standard lead core 55 grain bullets at 223 velocities, and your Handi rifle should easily stabilize 60 grain or better, as long as they are lead core. Unless you are piling on demands with long VLD, steel core, or solid lengths in combination with sluggish, short 16 inch barrels, stability is not your problem. Again, watch my rifling twist video.
Marlin rimfires are microgroove. 22 lr are cast.... Myth - busted
The Yonderosa
Yes, 22 rimfire bullets are cast, and some are swaged from wire.
The point being Microgroove barrels do shoot cast bullets very well. Those who perpetuate that myth lack experience and/or expertise shooting cast in Marlin Microgroove barrels. Correctly size the bullet to the bore and good thing happen. Marlins typically run a little big. 30 caliber rifles generally do best with .311" cast bullets. 44 caliber seem to like .431"... etc. Microgroove barrels are also easier to clean.
@@Hapharzardly- I've shot .312 cast at subsonic velocities through my microgroove 336 with good success.
Are you from Maine?
Nope. My Brittany is a Mainer though.
I think I could be able with all this prodding and poking at what's left of my brain , actually learn some better tactics . Aside from all the bruising of cores ;- ) I'll be fine . Thanks be
I been still trying 2 find LSA to protect my AR 15 it certainly cannot be compared to anything in today's market , it's the best and I think the German Military uses it for their machine guns ! 🤔
HELLO 👋: Do you remember those dumb accelerator sabots? Well, it seems to me a polymer plastic with a .223 will not spin as good as when contacting a real jacketed bullet against the rifling 😤 and if we think of it logically? Plastic tends to deform upon firing it , with friction behind a lot of gunpowder ? 🤔 could it be that a reduced velocity of 1900fps instead of 3000 fps, would make it more efficient, and accurate? Let's also think about the plastic polymer against Nylon , here we have 2 different things , that change with heat and friction, perhaps the plastic sabot could have been made longer like a normal bullet ? 🤔
Hello 👋Gun Blue , I happen 2 have a Speer # 9 reloading book mentioning 19.0 of 4759 powder for my 30-30 with a Speer flat nose 150 grainer giving me a vel.of 1712fps , but upon shooting this load I had some fresh granules in my barrel , thinking it didn't burn completely 😤 do you think I should've used magnum primers?