How to Build the Log Splitter Stoke Limiter.
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Here is a quick look at how I built my log splitter stroke limiter.
The log splitter can split logs up to 26" long. I don't have a stove nearly that big. Most of my firewood is cut around 16" long. Usually I will just grab the handle and stop the ram from retracting too far, but occasionally I will miss it and the ram will fully retract. Then I have to wait for a couple seconds for the ram to extend back to where the wood is. This device stop the ram where I want every time.
This was made with materials I had laying around. I think the only thing I had to buy were the cotter pin clips. If you decide to build your own don't be limited to how I built mine. Just take the concepts and put your own together.
If you have any questions just leave a comment below.
Hi Jonas. This is a very neat and tidy engineering job. I don't have metal/weld experience. I get around it this way. Main reason is to keep the cylinder extension as short as possible. Extended all the way under load can bend it. QUAD method. "Quick And Dirty". For those without the tools or skill to make this. Let it retract fully, and place firewood against it (the hydraulic cylinder end). Place a block(s) of wood (2x, 4x, 6x) slightly smaller than the gap left between the firewood and the base plate/bottom. Put them cross-grain so they don't split to. Should be tough enough to stop the splitter and auto-flip the handle. Most of the time you're going to be hands on as the wood splits, so you return the handle. On small electric splitters where the splitter knife is at the other end, use the blocks between the ram and the firewood. Guess you could build one of these limiters for stopping the forward stroke. Just attach to the splitter head and use longer rod.
btw: Soak the wood pillow blocks you made for 15 minutes in used motor/trans oil mixed 50/50 with diesel to pull it into the wood. When it dries (2-3 days) the wood is polymerized and the oil is inert. Will last decades outdoors. Brush on every few years to freshen appearance. Fence posts done this way last decades, 50 -100 yrs.
Brilliant idea that I just copied , works perfect. Thanks Jonas
That my friend is a awesome idea!! It saves time and boost overall production I will definitely be upgrading my splitter with one thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for sharing your solution..... I need to build one for my splitter
Show everyone at the end of what it looks like installed. Great Idea.
Thats a good idea. I'll do that next time. You can see it in action in this video.
ruclips.net/video/qwP-U_h9xts/видео.html
Thanks Jonas, this is so helpful....I'm going to put one on my splitter.
Very useful information. Tks.
Great job
Thanks so much for this info! Having one of these on my splitter will definitely save time (and gas) when I’ve got a big pile I’m working through
Slick design! Thank you for sharing your idea.
Great idea Thanks for sharing, another job for the list
A chunk of Delrin would make nice brackets for the slide. If I don't have any around, I think I may try 3D printing them in PETG. I might include a slight indent across the top for the hose clamp to sit in. Not really necessary, but would reduce any potential for the band walking off.
3d printed guide blocks would work great. I've been working on a cnc plasma table build and I'm using a lot of 3d printed brackets. With the right design its plenty strong.
Good idea Jonas.
probably will build one of these
Linseed oil on the wood to keep it from swelling?
You should consider making and selling this. Can I order one?
i use screwed together 4 and 6 10 inch pieces 2x8 lumber with a strap and just hang it across the foot of the splitter .
but feel free to over engineer and ugly up your splitter ....
VERY good idea!
Thanks!
@@championacres No, thank YOU! I may try and rig something like that up on mine. Wished it had a Prince valve though. You can set the kick out pressure on them. Energy makes a good valve but the kick out is up around 800 p.s.i. At least you can rebuild the newer ones. Kick out, that is.
Did you weld the hook to the control lever? Great idea by the way! Thanks
@@chrisshort8345 yes, welded the hook onto the original lever. I think it was part of a j bolt.
Excellent video!!! Please do a vido on the log table....thank you
@Jonas Champion, would you be interested in building another one of these? I would definitely commission you for the job :)
Wish I had the skill set and the welder to build this. Is there any chance you’d be willing to build another for sale? Please respond and if needed you can chat with me by telephone. Just tell me if you want to take this on? Thanks
Why don’t you just drill a hole in the slide base and put a bolt in it?
They sell collars you can put on the ram shaft to limit how far the ram can pull the slide back. This is the same idea as a bolt in the slide. Both will eventually shear off the bolt holding the wedge onto ram. But it does work....just a different mouse trap.
@@championacres and a much better mouse trap.
I'll be making something similar for mine. I'm building a four way wedge for it now.
Your engine guard is also a good idea. After over 30 years of use I had a large chunk of wood hit the cooling shroud on mine and put a dent in it.
Thanks for sharing.
Way too complicated.