I used one of the Strathpeffer kits for my old SilverSeal Ringfield Class 47 and it was absolutely brilliant. I was also really impressed with the Blackcat board in my HST 125 . Worked much better than first expected. They are two highly recommended upgrades to these older models.
I just did this upgrade about 2 weeks before this video. I also installed the 6volt damper thingy. Works amazing and super easy install, great kit from Strathpeffer
I've got the diode voltage droppers to try in another loco. Using a Hornby TTS sound decoder that doesn't have speed reduction CVs. Currently it's breaking speed records on 20% throttle. Did they work for you?
Great video Robin. I fitted my HST with a Strathpepper 12v CD motor and it pulls 6 coaches and the dummy with no problems at all on my 12v DC analogue layout (my layout can't accommodate a full size 8 coach HST in either the station nor the storage yard). Not bought the LED lighting upgrade kit yet but its on the "to do" list at about 164.......😃
@@LittleWicketRailway No. I'm a member of the flat earth society. The branch line has a 1 in 40 but since my house move the branch line now terminates after about 6 feet so it's being set up with an auto shuttle unit for a push pull / railcar.
Nice one, man. I wish I had your skill but I don't know a thing about electronics. Even with a thorough step-by-step guide, I still wouldn't trust myself with this stuff. I think the last time I used a soldering iron was when I was in art college, lol.
Nice video thanks. I have these to fit into same Class43 cars you have there, just need to get the motor upgrade kit. I also have a set of Lima cars in that livery so all in all makes for a nice train, I might even fit illumination kits into them. I managed to get several of the newer Class 43 packs before prices went mental so running them alongside, few ppl would notice.
I had one set as a kid in the late 70's early 80's, that one!. I'm just getting into trains again, thinking of buying the new set, plus, as a fan, I think I'll get the Hogwarts express set. And then another set, and another, and another, I know how it works being a collector of other things lol.
Welcome back to the hobby. It's very addictive! The newly tooled 125s are nice, but expensive/hard to find. Obviously shop around, but Amazon are doing the Hogwarts set for a pretty good price at the moment.
Well, this video inspired me to purchase a "spares & repairs" one of these HST's and upgrade it, but sadly, Strathpeffer Junction's service has been terrible. Still haven't got my order over a week later and doesn't respond to messages 😞.
Hi I am from Sri Lanka. Thanks for the video. it was just what i was hoping for. I have learnt how to remove the body from the chassis and the motor from the bogey chassis. Presently imports are banned by our authorities. My problem is traction tyres for the drive wheels. The rear bogey has wheels without a groove for traction tyres. If I switch the motor using the rear bogey, I will eliminate the need for traction tyres, but will there be any problems. i hope to try this tomorow hope for some good results. Faizal Hathy, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Hi. I think this is a great video. Many thanks for posting it. The only thing I have to question is: You provide a link to the Diode Voltage Dropper, but you make no mention of this nor actually fit one to your Power Car's CD motor in your video. Do you have to fit one of these if you are converting to DCC? What would be the problem in not wiring one into the motor circuit? Thanks, Rob.
Hi Rob, made this a while ago and tech has moved on a bit. I'd use HM7000 decoders these days and that have far better built in motor control which eliminates the need for diodes. I don't recall using the diodes with the TTS decoders, I just kept the speed steps low to avoid stressing the motors.
@@LittleWicketRailway sadly mine is the train set class 225 so sooner or later I'll switch the plastic pantograph for one that can take power from overhead wires
Hi Wayne, I used the Hornby TTS decoders R7140 (amzn.to/3CjJapt) it's a twin pack, so you get a decoder for each power car. This is the Valenta version for older HSTs. Hornby also do an version for newer HSTs with the MTU engine (R8120).
This video has really inspired me to give this a try. This looks like a great project to test and improve my skills. Do you know what the Hornby product R number is for this loco?
Hi Nicholas, sorry, should have explained that I had a spare bo-bo ringfield motor. These come up quite often on Ebay. The dummy power car frame is identical to the motor power car, so it's ready to accept a motor.
Hi, this is a great video. May I ask, how do you do this with two power cars in terms of control, since both have DCC decoders and each will have a different address and also what about differences in performance between the two power cars, can it cause issues if, say, the trailing power car is putting out more power to the wheels than the front one? One other thing is how to do this including sound?
Hi Andrew, there are two ways you can do this: 1) put both decoders on the same address, but make sure they run in opposite directions (either via wiring or CV settings). If you've used the same motors and the same decoders then in theory they should have very similar performance. Both power cars would respond to the same commands for lighting, sounds, etc. 2) give them separate addresses and create on consist using your control system (not all controllers can do this). This would allow separate control of sounds and lights in each power car. If the motors give out significantly different performance then you can adjust the CV settings to try and speed match. The cheapest Class 43 sound decoders are the Hornby TTS sound decoders which are £60-£70 for a pair, but they don't offer great functionality in terms of speed control, active braking, ABC braking, etc. A pair of LokSound 5 decoders with way better sound files and functionality would set you back about £230 though!
Thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial. I have a number of, what I call my heritage models, twenty in total from the eighties, all with Ringfield motors. They are all in a display cabinet, so may attempt the motor conversion, you have just carried out. Have you done a tutorial on hard wiring the lights on HSTs, instead of contact?
Hi Sam! I'd need to double check the CV numbers, but you almost certainly can change CVs on most decoders to achieve the same as swapping the wires. You can definitely change the motor direction and on these decoders you can re-map functions so I assume you can do something similar for the front/rear lights.
Hi Glenn, same plastic. I think some people do make alterations so that it's closer to how it looks on the full size version, but I'm happy with the position, just wanted the colour change.
At some point I'll probably put in sound decoders, but I don't have any at the moment, so wanted to be able to easily swap them. Nothing wrong with wiring directly to a decoder though, especially if you're short on space.
If you're handy with a soldering iron then you could definitely wire up your own lighting using red/white bi-colour LEDs and resistors. I got half way there, but I'm lazy so gave up when I found the ready made boards.
Loved your tutorial. I am a serious collector of model trains and in the case of HST liveries, I am trying to obtain the full list of liveries. To try and achieve this, it was necessary to purchase some models still with Ringfield motors. I run my collection on test tracks, analogue and DCC and to this end want the models to be DCC fitted and where possible with sound. I have fitted one power car with Horns and Whistles motor, which worked out fine. I was unsuccessful with Strathpeffer unit. As I am not confident enough to move on to the next level, do you take commissions?
Hi Kenneth, afraid not, I don't mind tinkering with my models, but wouldn't want to risk damaging someone else's pride and joy. You can still DCC fit ringfield motors with a bit of soldering. As long as they're serviced regularly they should run well. Best of luck with your livery quest!
This is a great video the only thing is, because I'm a bit of a dummy, is how did you wire the lights? You talked about wiring the motor but not the Black Cat lights. I have the same as you have so this is a great video cheers
Hi Guy! Assuming you're using DCC, on your decoder you should have a white wire (front lights), yellow wire (rear lights) and blue wire (common positive wire). These lights are directional, so will automatically turn on/off depending on the direction your going in. On the black cat board you have three solder pads labelled 'A', 'B' and 'C'. 'A' should be connected to the yellow wire, 'B' should be connected to the white wire and 'C' connected to the blue common wire. Then at the other end of your HST you'll need to swap this round and connect 'A' to white and 'B' to yellow. Full instructions here: blackcattechnologyblog.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/hst-lights-instructions-single-page-v5.pdf Hope that helps.
@@LittleWicketRailway hello thank you for your insight, I've just noticed it and sorry I'm late in replying. I watch your videos with interest. Thank you 🎃
Afternoon sir. Did that hst have pickups on all 8 wheels? I have got one and it's only got pickups on one side on the front bogie! Yours looked like it had pickups on both sides!
@@LittleWicketRailway thanks mate. No it's not great isit. I've seen a RUclips video of a guy fitting the front pickups of a slightly newer class 91 from a 5 pole ringfield version which came with pickups on both sides of the bogie onto his old version of a 91, I was hoping they might fit the hst, but I can't find confirmation of it they will or not.
It seems like you Aussies are always getting left out when it comes to model railway stuff. Might be worth droping Black Cat Technology and/or Strathpeffer an email via their websites to see if they would ship to Aus?
These boards will work with analogue. If you go to the Black Cat Technology website then I think the instructions for fitting them to analogue models are on there 👍
The "new" GWR HST from the set does have improved lighting and motors, but not enough to justify the increase in my opinion. They've also added a lot of weight to the new railroad models and I'm having to do the same to get these older models to shift 7 coaches without wheel slip.
@@LittleWicketRailway agreed. This disappointment is the dummy car not have lights.. I find it quiet fun & thrilling while the trains with directional lights are running. The charm is different all together.
Correct. No motor in the dummy car, but I think (can't remember 100%) that the dummy bogie will take a ring field motor. But yeah, a motorised power car would do the trick.
This video should come with a warning that this is not for amateurs. A great example on how not to make an instruction video. Poor camera angles exactly at the critical stages, too fast, some key steps missing for example releasing the motor from the body shell, and lastly, whats with the talking!!! Its just non stop, rapid and irritating. Sadly, all my wiring got mixed up watching this video and I burnt through a decoder. The exact video produced by Chadwick is much more simple, with great video angles, details and guess what- less talking!!! Thankfully, was able to salvage my work watching other users on YT.
I'm going to leave this here for a short time, before I delete it, as an example of an unacceptable comment. My channel is a positive place where comments should be friendly, kind and supportive. If you needed help or didn't understand then you could have asked. Equally if you didn't like the video then you could have chosen not to watch it. I assure you the video was made with the best of intentions, to the best of my abilities at the time and is provided to you for free. I appreciate this isn't a super detailed step by step guide, but it does demonstrate a couple of cool kits, both of which have their own instructions. Nothing in the video is technically incorrect or misleading. I hope this gives you an opportunity to reflect on this comment and consider if you would say this to someone in person. I'm glad you found Charlie's video and were able to complete the project.
I disagree with that comment. I am a complete novice, but I found your video really useful and straightforward to follow. Maybe the original poster had not tumbled to the idea of using pause? I have also watched Charlie’s video from Chadwick. I like both, I think both have their good points. Anyway, thank you for posting, I have successfully carried out this whole process with my old Hornsby HST.
I used one of the Strathpeffer kits for my old SilverSeal Ringfield Class 47 and it was absolutely brilliant.
I was also really impressed with the Blackcat board in my HST 125 . Worked much better than first expected. They are two highly recommended upgrades to these older models.
Agreed, reasonably priced upgrades that make a big difference 👍
I just did this upgrade about 2 weeks before this video. I also installed the 6volt damper thingy. Works amazing and super easy install, great kit from Strathpeffer
I've got the diode voltage droppers to try in another loco. Using a Hornby TTS sound decoder that doesn't have speed reduction CVs. Currently it's breaking speed records on 20% throttle. Did they work for you?
@@LittleWicketRailway yup, they worked great, speed is comparable to original. Mine is still dc only
A very useful tutorial, with clear presentation and good photography. Thanks for posting.
Thanks 😃
Great video Robin. I fitted my HST with a Strathpepper 12v CD motor and it pulls 6 coaches and the dummy with no problems at all on my 12v DC analogue layout (my layout can't accommodate a full size 8 coach HST in either the station nor the storage yard). Not bought the LED lighting upgrade kit yet but its on the "to do" list at about 164.......😃
Haha, sounds like my "to do" list! Do you have any gradients on your layout? And if it does, then how does the HST handle those?
@@LittleWicketRailway No. I'm a member of the flat earth society. The branch line has a 1 in 40 but since my house move the branch line now terminates after about 6 feet so it's being set up with an auto shuttle unit for a push pull / railcar.
Brilliant, I have a few items which require upgrading, thank you
Nice one, man. I wish I had your skill but I don't know a thing about electronics. Even with a thorough step-by-step guide, I still wouldn't trust myself with this stuff. I think the last time I used a soldering iron was when I was in art college, lol.
I'm sure you can do it! 👍 Pick a small project and just give it a go, best way to learn is by doing.
Nicely done. I was considering the motor upgrade myself didn't know about the LED board so might have a look in to that as well.
If you're good with electronics and enjoy it then you could probably do your own LEDs, but I don't think it would be a massive saving.
Nice Job Rob
Nice video thanks. I have these to fit into same Class43 cars you have there, just need to get the motor upgrade kit. I also have a set of Lima cars in that livery so all in all makes for a nice train, I might even fit illumination kits into them. I managed to get several of the newer Class 43 packs before prices went mental so running them alongside, few ppl would notice.
I had one set as a kid in the late 70's early 80's, that one!. I'm just getting into trains again, thinking of buying the new set, plus, as a fan, I think I'll get the Hogwarts express set. And then another set, and another, and another, I know how it works being a collector of other things lol.
Welcome back to the hobby. It's very addictive! The newly tooled 125s are nice, but expensive/hard to find. Obviously shop around, but Amazon are doing the Hogwarts set for a pretty good price at the moment.
Well, this video inspired me to purchase a "spares & repairs" one of these HST's and upgrade it, but sadly, Strathpeffer Junction's service has been terrible. Still haven't got my order over a week later and doesn't respond to messages 😞.
That's a real shame about Strathpeffer. Don't know what happened. They were really good. Let me know how you get on.
Great video Rob!!! Thanks for sharing. Cheers Onno.
I have a inter city like that but black red and white form 1991
Hi I am from Sri Lanka. Thanks for the video. it was just what i was hoping for. I have learnt how to remove the body from the chassis and the motor from the bogey chassis. Presently imports are banned by our authorities. My problem is traction tyres for the drive wheels. The rear bogey has wheels without a groove for traction tyres. If I switch the motor using the rear bogey, I will eliminate the need for traction tyres, but will there be any problems. i hope to try this tomorow hope for some good results. Faizal Hathy, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Hi. I think this is a great video. Many thanks for posting it. The only thing I have to question is: You provide a link to the Diode Voltage Dropper, but you make no mention of this nor actually fit one to your Power Car's CD motor in your video. Do you have to fit one of these if you are converting to DCC? What would be the problem in not wiring one into the motor circuit? Thanks, Rob.
Hi Rob, made this a while ago and tech has moved on a bit. I'd use HM7000 decoders these days and that have far better built in motor control which eliminates the need for diodes. I don't recall using the diodes with the TTS decoders, I just kept the speed steps low to avoid stressing the motors.
Ok, thanks
great just subbed.. very informative... cheers Neil
Thanks Neil! 👍
Reminds me of my InterCity 225
Another good model. I've got a 225 that might recieve the same upgrades at some point.
@@LittleWicketRailway sadly mine is the train set class 225 so sooner or later I'll switch the plastic pantograph for one that can take power from overhead wires
@@111greatbear3 are you going to have working overhead wires? That'd be really impressive!
Great video, which decoder did you use ? Do you have a link to it please ?
Hi Wayne, I used the Hornby TTS decoders R7140 (amzn.to/3CjJapt) it's a twin pack, so you get a decoder for each power car. This is the Valenta version for older HSTs. Hornby also do an version for newer HSTs with the MTU engine (R8120).
Great video very informative 👍🏻
Thanks Darren! 👍
The introduction sounds like Enrique Iglesias - Escape
"Here's how it goes..."
This video has really inspired me to give this a try. This looks like a great project to test and improve my skills. Do you know what the Hornby product R number is for this loco?
Hi Scott! I think these are R332 (www.hornbyguide.com/item_year_details.asp?itemyearid=154). It looks like R069 might be similar.
You mentioned that the second engine was originally not powered. How did you add a ring field motor if there was nothing there.
Hi Nicholas, sorry, should have explained that I had a spare bo-bo ringfield motor. These come up quite often on Ebay. The dummy power car frame is identical to the motor power car, so it's ready to accept a motor.
Hi, this is a great video. May I ask, how do you do this with two power cars in terms of control, since both have DCC decoders and each will have a different address and also what about differences in performance between the two power cars, can it cause issues if, say, the trailing power car is putting out more power to the wheels than the front one? One other thing is how to do this including sound?
Hi Andrew, there are two ways you can do this:
1) put both decoders on the same address, but make sure they run in opposite directions (either via wiring or CV settings). If you've used the same motors and the same decoders then in theory they should have very similar performance. Both power cars would respond to the same commands for lighting, sounds, etc.
2) give them separate addresses and create on consist using your control system (not all controllers can do this). This would allow separate control of sounds and lights in each power car.
If the motors give out significantly different performance then you can adjust the CV settings to try and speed match.
The cheapest Class 43 sound decoders are the Hornby TTS sound decoders which are £60-£70 for a pair, but they don't offer great functionality in terms of speed control, active braking, ABC braking, etc. A pair of LokSound 5 decoders with way better sound files and functionality would set you back about £230 though!
Thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial. I have a number of, what I call my heritage models, twenty in total from the eighties, all with Ringfield motors. They are all in a display cabinet, so may attempt the motor conversion, you have just carried out. Have you done a tutorial on hard wiring the lights on HSTs, instead of contact?
Re : the different wiring fort each end, could you just wire them the same and set bit 0 of CV 29 to 1 and get the same result?
Hi Sam! I'd need to double check the CV numbers, but you almost certainly can change CVs on most decoders to achieve the same as swapping the wires. You can definitely change the motor direction and on these decoders you can re-map functions so I assume you can do something similar for the front/rear lights.
Robin in the front of the hst the headlight plastic is it the same or did you have to alter it
Hi Glenn, same plastic. I think some people do make alterations so that it's closer to how it looks on the full size version, but I'm happy with the position, just wanted the colour change.
Great video, but I was just wondering why you used a decoder harness instead of just getting a wired decoder?
At some point I'll probably put in sound decoders, but I don't have any at the moment, so wanted to be able to easily swap them. Nothing wrong with wiring directly to a decoder though, especially if you're short on space.
Sadly I can’t get the led set. Doesn’t ship to the US now to figure out lighting. But got the motors ordered
If you're handy with a soldering iron then you could definitely wire up your own lighting using red/white bi-colour LEDs and resistors. I got half way there, but I'm lazy so gave up when I found the ready made boards.
Loved your tutorial. I am a serious collector of model trains and in the case of HST liveries, I am trying to obtain the full list of liveries. To try and achieve this, it was necessary to purchase some models still with Ringfield motors. I run my collection on test tracks, analogue and DCC and to this end want the models to be DCC fitted and where possible with sound. I have fitted one power car with Horns and Whistles motor, which worked out fine. I was unsuccessful with Strathpeffer unit. As I am not confident enough to move on to the next level, do you take commissions?
Hi Kenneth, afraid not, I don't mind tinkering with my models, but wouldn't want to risk damaging someone else's pride and joy. You can still DCC fit ringfield motors with a bit of soldering. As long as they're serviced regularly they should run well. Best of luck with your livery quest!
@@LittleWicketRailway thanks for your response
I had one of these HST sets when new. They always ran like ####!
If I ever dig them out again, I'll know how to fix them. Thanks.
They'll never be as good as the new releases, but this is slightly better and a lot cheaper 👍
This is a great video the only thing is, because I'm a bit of a dummy, is how did you wire the lights? You talked about wiring the motor but not the Black Cat lights. I have the same as you have so this is a great video cheers
Hi Guy!
Assuming you're using DCC, on your decoder you should have a white wire (front lights), yellow wire (rear lights) and blue wire (common positive wire). These lights are directional, so will automatically turn on/off depending on the direction your going in.
On the black cat board you have three solder pads labelled 'A', 'B' and 'C'. 'A' should be connected to the yellow wire, 'B' should be connected to the white wire and 'C' connected to the blue common wire. Then at the other end of your HST you'll need to swap this round and connect 'A' to white and 'B' to yellow.
Full instructions here: blackcattechnologyblog.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/hst-lights-instructions-single-page-v5.pdf
Hope that helps.
@@LittleWicketRailway hello thank you for your insight, I've just noticed it and sorry I'm late in replying. I watch your videos with interest. Thank you 🎃
Very clever :)
Thanks Michael, it's the guys at Strathpeffer and Black Cat Tech that are the clever ones.
Afternoon sir. Did that hst have pickups on all 8 wheels? I have got one and it's only got pickups on one side on the front bogie! Yours looked like it had pickups on both sides!
Hi Matt 👋 no, this is the same as yours, 2 wheels pickup on one bogie and two on the other. It's not a great arrangement.
@@LittleWicketRailway thanks mate. No it's not great isit. I've seen a RUclips video of a guy fitting the front pickups of a slightly newer class 91 from a 5 pole ringfield version which came with pickups on both sides of the bogie onto his old version of a 91, I was hoping they might fit the hst, but I can't find confirmation of it they will or not.
@@MrHipwell1989 I think I'd opt for a stay alive over fitting extra pick ups, sounds like hassle.
@@LittleWicketRailway good shout! I hadn't even thought of that!
unfortunatly that ebay seller doesnt exist to australians so i guess we miss out on upgrading our locos
It seems like you Aussies are always getting left out when it comes to model railway stuff. Might be worth droping Black Cat Technology and/or Strathpeffer an email via their websites to see if they would ship to Aus?
@@LittleWicketRailway good idea, worth a try,
Luckily the motors ship to the states. But the lights don’t
How would you add lights for analogue?
These boards will work with analogue. If you go to the Black Cat Technology website then I think the instructions for fitting them to analogue models are on there 👍
My dummy power car doesn't have a motor housing just a flat bogie
You'll need to get another motor housing for the dummy car. These come up pretty often on Ebay.
@@LittleWicketRailway couldn't find a spare power car housing so I just serviced my original ringfield motor and it's now running great again 👍
I don't understand why the new HSTs even the exLima tooling Railroads are unreasonably very expensive!
I wish I had this skill....
The "new" GWR HST from the set does have improved lighting and motors, but not enough to justify the increase in my opinion. They've also added a lot of weight to the new railroad models and I'm having to do the same to get these older models to shift 7 coaches without wheel slip.
@@LittleWicketRailway agreed. This disappointment is the dummy car not have lights.. I find it quiet fun & thrilling while the trains with directional lights are running. The charm is different all together.
A dummy car doesn’t have a motorised bogie so I would need to find a motor and correct bogie. So better to use an old motorised unit eh?
Correct. No motor in the dummy car, but I think (can't remember 100%) that the dummy bogie will take a ring field motor. But yeah, a motorised power car would do the trick.
This video should come with a warning that this is not for amateurs. A great example on how not to make an instruction video. Poor camera angles exactly at the critical stages, too fast, some key steps missing for example releasing the motor from the body shell, and lastly, whats with the talking!!! Its just non stop, rapid and irritating. Sadly, all my wiring got mixed up watching this video and I burnt through a decoder. The exact video produced by Chadwick is much more simple, with great video angles, details and guess what- less talking!!! Thankfully, was able to salvage my work watching other users on YT.
I'm going to leave this here for a short time, before I delete it, as an example of an unacceptable comment.
My channel is a positive place where comments should be friendly, kind and supportive. If you needed help or didn't understand then you could have asked. Equally if you didn't like the video then you could have chosen not to watch it. I assure you the video was made with the best of intentions, to the best of my abilities at the time and is provided to you for free.
I appreciate this isn't a super detailed step by step guide, but it does demonstrate a couple of cool kits, both of which have their own instructions. Nothing in the video is technically incorrect or misleading.
I hope this gives you an opportunity to reflect on this comment and consider if you would say this to someone in person.
I'm glad you found Charlie's video and were able to complete the project.
I disagree with that comment. I am a complete novice, but I found your video really useful and straightforward to follow. Maybe the original poster had not tumbled to the idea of using pause? I have also watched Charlie’s video from Chadwick. I like both, I think both have their good points.
Anyway, thank you for posting, I have successfully carried out this whole process with my old Hornsby HST.