Yes, much better dispersion, no hot spots..and make sure of a good rev count before pouring - at least 75 at mixing speed. And when the truck is waiting for rodding bays out, keep a slow roll on that drum, about 4 rpm or so. Very important when your load is full of accelerators, especially CaCl or HE.
Last few days been watching your channel and i find its worth while 53 years been building and there is not a day I don't learn something Just remembering what I learnt as it could be a few months before the job comes up Fibre in concrete, I understand it does weaken very quickly No DPC I have always said to clients DPC is a must as dampness rises even through concrete Cheers
In my younger days, we’d pour basement floors in the winter. After around 6 beers power trowel rodeo may or may not come into play. Are you familiar with the sport? Incredibly dangerous and stupid, thank God those days are behind me. Love your videos, I pour around 2,000 yards a year between structural and flat work and I learn a lot from watching your videos.
I think is bc it’s very rare to find people that actually take pride in their work. I particularly get such a satisfaction when something comes out perfect. I’ve had costumes LOVE the finish product and I’m actually disappointing bc I know it could of come out even better. Well now I just do small jobs on my spare time BY MYSELF, I actually enjoy working alone, Good music, plenty of water an coffee and I become a well oiled machine. Like they say, “ if you want something done right, you better just do it yourself”
We always use liquid cal. We always drill in 1/2” steel into the wall, even if they didn’t use steel we would have cut 2’ dowels and put them every 2’ . If they said I couldn’t put the dowels in I wouldn’t have poured the floor. We put a 1 1/2” lip across the doorways use a 4” edger on the door lips leave the smooth mark in the lip. We seldom cut garage floors because they’re pretty much square, if it was a 3 car garage we would saw cut. Yes 4000 lb concert would set up faster probably finish easier but it’s more app to crack also. We would have just Fresno the garage. I have a 2’ finish machine made actually just to do the edges but we just Fresno, than I make 1 or 2 passes to get the swirl/machine marks/ pattern in the floor, because that’s what people expect/use to seeing. We always use hot water, we say using hot water will keep you out of hot water, when it gets to setting up and you may have a bad spot we have a saying give it a lick and a promise ,keep going. Which means you can come back Lick it and promise to do better next time. And we always use 4” edgers. Why? Because they look better. We fill two 5 gal buckets of water to the top, the very top and one 5 gal bucket half full, one of the 5 gal buckets is never used two wash off tools, but to wash your hands if you need to I like clean water to wash my hands in. We would have just used 2 guys to pour and finish the floor. I understand if you running mostly a 3 man crew why you would have used 3 men, and I realize on some days 3 men is 1 man short, it usually works it self out where it all comes out even. I think one thing you guys probably do different than us is you spend a lot more time laying down/floating your edges. We take the screed board, one man, hits the edges with the 12’ screed board and than we float the edges with the float.
You probably dont give a shit but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend for the last few months =)
Nice job guys. You dont use your float blades for 2nd hit? I use floats twice then see where it brings me. Sometime hit real quick with power trowel, then hit it right after with a funny trowel. In winter weather anyways. Glad your putting out these videos to show the right way to do it though. Too many hacks in our line of work
@@aarongrabowski5620 you don't have to "go back" it's right here in present time 🤣🤣. I'm sure they have pump. It just not needed to do the work on a flat open site. Pump cost more, you know that, right.
Another great video. You have a great crew to be able to use that much calcium in 12 yards and still lay it down. I'd be a nervous wreck trying that. I always soak my calcium in a bucket of water and let it dissolve before I pour it in mixer. Do you ever use a Georgia buggy?
Do you have any videos on admixtures that slow the drying process? I want to pour a big slab (well big for one person to pour) in Texas. So, the heat + needing as much one-man time to mix and pour. Do you have any suggestions of videos on this? Thanks Mike. Love your instructional videos.
Would you do anything differently if pouring over a plastic vapor barrier? Also is it common to supply the calcium yourself? Is it better or worse getting the calcium mixed in at the plant?
Correct saying !!!! Are we goin to put a machine on it or not !!! Lol which is a finishing machine down south . But I really think they are called power trowels 🤪
Anytime when the temps are in the 40's or above. When the temps get to freezing and below, precautions have to be taken to ensure the concrete doesn't freeze.
4000 psi concrete is a performance mix it actually has less cement in it and either fly ash or slag straight sack mix which would be a 6 sack Limestone would be is what you would be wanting to use in the cold weather it cures faster and comes up to its PSI strength sooner
What's your opinion on those butt loading trucks compared to the front ones ? Here in Ct, I've only had to work with the front loaders and they seem that they would be much easier and precise. Do you ever worry that the GC is dead wrong about no wire, plastic and that it'll come back to bite ya in the arse ? Thanks and thumbs up !!
don't you get a lot of aggregate popping/and chipping up if you saw cut your joints same day pour? We sure do so we do not do it anymore. didn't matter what type of diamond blades we used as I've tried many types of over many years.
Mike. 32f in morning. High of 48 tomorrow and rain forecast after 4pm. Going to start pouring at 7am. 6 bag straight mix, plasticizer, and 1%. Will the concrete set fast enough? Bump up to 2%. I'd be ok with just getting a smooth bull float finish. Tomorrow is the last day I can pour before lots of rain, holiday, and very cold weather coming.
@@MikeDayConcrete Is there a formula or chart that relates setting time to temperature? I remember from chemistry a rule of thumb that said every 10 degree rise in temperature doubles most reaction speeds. Does that sound right? does it sound better for 10 degrees Celsius? or Fahrenheit?
@@MikeDayConcrete I like the owner's idea of using fiber and extra cement instead of rebar. Not only is it probably cheaper and easier than rebar but it also doesn't rust like rebar and so should last longer than rebar, far longer if near road salt or the ocean.
Question for you, when using fiber mesh in your mix do any of those fibers come up through the surface of the concrete? Can you tell fiber mesh was in the mix from a finished slab point of view? Whats your opinion on using a fiber mesh mix inside a house that was going to be left bare as in concrete floor.
Yeah, burn it or get your concrete supplier to to go UltraFiber - wood cellulose based microfiber, works wonders on normal flatwork and fine/short fibers are not noticeable when doing stamped/dyed/facing steps etc. I was leery of the stuff when it first came out, but no more.
Not really, that's mostly from water vapor carrying minerals to the surface through the pores in the concrete. They settle on the surface making it dusty.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thankyou. It was so bad I'd have to scrape an eighth of an inch off the floor every year. It was a storage space. I paid a concrete guy to pour and finish it because of the size. Was a cold rainy day out and I remember the concrete being pretty runny. Probably a 6 or 7 slump. Must have ended up real porous. I appreciate your channel and your effort. Edit, Our local concrete supplier puts fly ash in the mud, at the time I thought it was bad stuff, perhaps causing the dust, until I bought the book "the properties of concrete" and read it. Great read 🤠
Concert company’s don’t use fly ash in the winter it won’t sit up. The slang for fly ash is summer mix ( use it in the summer) because it doesn’t sit up as fast.
Thankyou guys for your comments, 😊 nothing against the man who did the pour or the Company who supplied the concrete. It did the job I wanted and I was just curious about the properties that caused it. It was poured over 12 inches of compacted pit run (8" and minus rock) + 3 inches of 3/4 minus road base and finish height was 8 inches over grade, all on top of 15 feet depth of top soil with a large french (30 yard of 8-12" rock) drain 8 feet from the building.
No concrete reinforcement? And after leaving the concrete plant you ad bags of....something...........here in Holland it is not even allowed to add a drop of water. If you do, you lose warrenty on the concrete!
Im ready for what i call season to start . When it warms up and work starts going balls to the walls . Here in southern Missouri I've never seen in 23 years anyone dump calcium chloride into a truck . Here you just order 1 or 2% either NCA or calcium and hot water. If it's really cold and the boss wants it to set super fast he'll tell us the order High early . Which is 8.62 bag mix then put hot water and 1 or 2 % . Back in my residential days I wish I could have dumped that calcium chloride in the truck on the job site . cuz I've had times where the concrete just didn't set and we will be out there all damn night .
Flake is for sure best. 2% from the plant and a bag of cal will get u on ur way!! Here in PA flake is a daily consumable. I cant think of a winter where we didnt use flake.
@@Take_And_Make It’s the same thing when everybody says ‘pour’ concrete instead of ‘place’ concrete. Semantically it’s not correct but that’s just what everybody says 🤷♂️ 🤜🤛
I agree concrete cures. Drying is not good because the absence of water (drying) will stop the hydration reaction. When hydration stops strength gain stops also. Keeping newly placed concrete damp allows the curing and strength gain to continue. Someone mentioned curing compound. That helps keep the moisture in the concrete and slows down drying.
I rarely use rebar. Always in footer, but only if code or customer recommend it in anything else. I use 4000 with fiber and don't have problems. Rebar doesn't do anything to prevent cracking. Only keeps it together if it breaks.
Brad Hill up here in Iowa we typically have 3 feet of frost, which moves slabs 6 to 12 inches up and down. I do a lot of tearout and replace, and 98% of the slabs have wire or no reinforcement. Which is great for job security.
@@iowamatt2519 your in a lot different circumstance then I'm in in East Tennessee. That's a lot of freeze thaw movement. Glad I don't have that to deal with.
This chap obviously knows absolutely nothing about concrete as he keeps telling people concrete dries. It doesn't. Its an exothermic chemical reaction as anyone with even a slight knowledge of concrete knows it DOESN'T dry!
Concrete truck drivers cleaning your tools and giving you warm water for cleaning. Much respect to all of you.
Yea, we have a lot of good drivers here. I give them t-shirts and sweatshirts so they help out as much as they can.
another trick i always do is mix the calcium in a bucket with hot water first before adding in.
Yes, much better dispersion, no hot spots..and make sure of a good rev count before pouring - at least 75 at mixing speed. And when the truck is waiting for rodding bays out, keep a slow roll on that drum, about 4 rpm or so. Very important when your load is full of accelerators, especially CaCl or HE.
Last few days been watching your channel and i find its worth while
53 years been building and there is not a day I don't learn something
Just remembering what I learnt as it could be a few months before the job comes up
Fibre in concrete, I understand it does weaken very quickly
No DPC I have always said to clients DPC is a must as dampness rises even through concrete
Cheers
Awesome job guys. Mike thanks for all the tips and all the great videos......Aloha from Hawaii
In my younger days, we’d pour basement floors in the winter. After around 6 beers power trowel rodeo may or may not come into play. Are you familiar with the sport? Incredibly dangerous and stupid, thank God those days are behind me. Love your videos, I pour around 2,000 yards a year between structural and flat work and I learn a lot from watching your videos.
NO I don't know that game!
I miss pouring concrete some days. It's hard to find good help anymore!
Pro Concrete Coatings either strung out in drugs or just lazy and don’t come to work it is hard now
@@lowflynn1789 yeah, ain't that the truth
I think is bc it’s very rare to find people that actually take pride in their work. I particularly get such a satisfaction when something comes out perfect. I’ve had costumes LOVE the finish product and I’m actually disappointing bc I know it could of come out even better. Well now I just do small jobs on my spare time BY MYSELF, I actually enjoy working alone,
Good music, plenty of water an coffee and I become a well oiled machine. Like they say, “ if you want something done right, you better just do it yourself”
We always use liquid cal.
We always drill in 1/2” steel into the wall, even if they didn’t use steel we would have cut 2’ dowels and put them every 2’ . If they said I couldn’t put the dowels in I wouldn’t have poured the floor. We put a 1 1/2” lip across the doorways use a 4” edger on the door lips leave the smooth mark in the lip. We seldom cut garage floors because they’re pretty much square, if it was a 3 car garage we would saw cut. Yes 4000 lb concert would set up faster probably finish easier but it’s more app to crack also. We would have just Fresno the garage. I have a 2’ finish machine made actually just to do the edges but we just Fresno, than I make 1 or 2 passes to get the swirl/machine marks/ pattern in the floor, because that’s what people expect/use to seeing. We always use hot water, we say using hot water will keep you out of hot water, when it gets to setting up and you may have a bad spot we have a saying give it a lick and a promise ,keep going. Which means you can come back Lick it and promise to do better next time. And we always use 4” edgers. Why? Because they look better. We fill two 5 gal buckets of water to the top, the very top and one 5 gal bucket half full, one of the 5 gal buckets is never used two wash off tools, but to wash your hands if you need to I like clean water to wash my hands in. We would have just used 2 guys to pour and finish the floor. I understand if you running mostly a 3 man crew why you would have used 3 men, and I realize on some days 3 men is 1 man short, it usually works it self out where it all comes out even. I think one thing you guys probably do different than us is you spend a lot more time laying down/floating your edges. We take the screed board, one man, hits the edges with the 12’ screed board and than we float the edges with the float.
Is always a journey pour concrete in this temperature im pour some slabs in Northern Arizona
How cold does it get there.
The high was 35 and the lower 15
Thank you mike for another good video!!
Thank You
You probably dont give a shit but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend for the last few months =)
Nice job guys. You dont use your float blades for 2nd hit? I use floats twice then see where it brings me. Sometime hit real quick with power trowel, then hit it right after with a funny trowel. In winter weather anyways. Glad your putting out these videos to show the right way to do it though. Too many hacks in our line of work
Maybe a wheelbarrow tyre on the extra chute ,might make it easier to move around .
Nice clip Mike..man I haven't seen a rear loader since the Early 90's around hear!
Very common in Europe
Right!!!! I would hate to go back to that type of mixer!!!
@@aarongrabowski5620 you don't have to "go back" it's right here in present time 🤣🤣.
I'm sure they have pump. It just not needed to do the work on a flat open site. Pump cost more, you know that, right.
Brand new trucks around here are like this one
@@Kghost0311 i hear ya brother different states different laws.
Another great video! Keep them coming.
Thanks Jeffrey!
Another great video. You have a great crew to be able to use that much calcium in 12 yards and still lay it down. I'd be a nervous wreck trying that. I always soak my calcium in a bucket of water and let it dissolve before I pour it in mixer. Do you ever use a Georgia buggy?
Very good info.
Another great vid! Looks gooood. thanks again
Hey Mike, what slump do you use in the winter and any water reducer with the cal or not necessary? Thanks great videos!
It's about a 6 slump and yes with the water reducer, we always use it.
Do you have any videos on admixtures that slow the drying process? I want to pour a big slab (well big for one person to pour) in Texas. So, the heat + needing as much one-man time to mix and pour. Do you have any suggestions of videos on this? Thanks Mike. Love your instructional videos.
Establishing the wet pad puzzles me. Is there sort sort of marker in place to screed to or are they just going by eye?
Must be nice contractors I know what let you add two bags of calcium to that few yards . Nice
Would you do anything differently if pouring over a plastic vapor barrier? Also is it common to supply the calcium yourself? Is it better or worse getting the calcium mixed in at the plant?
We pour over plastic vapor barriers all the time, no different. I usually buy it from the concrete supplier. I never mix it in at the plant.
South Boston ☘️ Massachusetts
Correct saying !!!! Are we goin to put a machine on it or not !!! Lol which is a finishing machine down south . But I really think they are called power trowels 🤪
When is the ideal time and temp to pour a foundation to assure best results
Anytime when the temps are in the 40's or above. When the temps get to freezing and below, precautions have to be taken to ensure the concrete doesn't freeze.
Do you do walls?
4000 psi concrete is a performance mix it actually has less cement in it and either fly ash or slag straight sack mix which would be a 6 sack Limestone would be is what you would be wanting to use in the cold weather it cures faster and comes up to its PSI strength sooner
Depends on the redi mix company , mine used more cement powder in their higher psi mixes. They do a lot of govt work so they do not use any fly ash.
TKS
Oh the northern accent !!! The power trowel !!!! Lol
What's your opinion on those butt loading trucks compared to the front ones ? Here in Ct, I've only had to work with the front loaders and they seem that they would be much easier and precise. Do you ever worry that the GC is dead wrong about no wire, plastic and that it'll come back to bite ya in the arse ? Thanks and thumbs up !!
I like the front loaders if you get a good driver. Wire and poly isn't my call. I just get hired to pour and finish.
How do you get your finished level in the centre of the bay to tamp off?
We use our laser level and get the height making a wet pad in the concrete then checking it with the laser.
How much time did it take to pour and finish the job?
I believe he said they were done around 3:30 with everything, 8-9 hrs ?
don't you get a lot of aggregate popping/and chipping up if you saw cut your joints same day pour? We sure do so we do not do it anymore. didn't matter what type of diamond blades we used as I've tried many types of over many years.
No not at all. Cuts are real clean.
@@MikeDayConcrete What brand blade are you using? and what machine are you using to cut?
I'm using the Husqvarna Prowler X150 (Soff-cut) saw. I get my blades (6.5") from Warrior Diamond. Just like this one: amzn.to/2IvYje3
Nice, like yr move,s
Black side up on the blankets bud , good video tho
How long do you keep it covered for out in Maine ?
Guess it depends i got blankets that are orange on both side!
Enjoy the videos. What do you usually use for a curing compound?
Wet cure for a couple days then use this for a sealer: www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm
Like I said before why walk through the concrete will you go on the outside and Float off the edges doesn't make sense
We do what ever is easier for us at that moment. Sometimes it's floating from the outside and sometimes not.
Mike. 32f in morning. High of 48 tomorrow and rain forecast after 4pm. Going to start pouring at 7am. 6 bag straight mix, plasticizer, and 1%. Will the concrete set fast enough? Bump up to 2%. I'd be ok with just getting a smooth bull float finish. Tomorrow is the last day I can pour before lots of rain, holiday, and very cold weather coming.
If it was me I'd go with 2%.
How much did this cost (the customer) including the footers and walls?
I talk about pricing in my facebook group CONCRETE NINJA'S, not on this channel. Thanks for watching!!
@@MikeDayConcrete If you used hotter water, could you save money on calcium or cement?
@@MikeDayConcrete Is there a formula or chart that relates setting time to temperature? I remember from chemistry a rule of thumb that said every 10 degree rise in temperature doubles most reaction speeds. Does that sound right? does it sound better for 10 degrees Celsius? or Fahrenheit?
@@MikeDayConcrete I like the owner's idea of using fiber and extra cement instead of rebar. Not only is it probably cheaper and easier than rebar but it also doesn't rust like rebar and so should last longer than rebar, far longer if near road salt or the ocean.
What was the slump Mike?
I think he said around 6
Yea, i usually pour about a 6 with water reducer in the mix.
Why didn’t you use the vibra screed on this one?
This floor wasn't that big, we didn't really need it. Plus the floor had a 2" slope from back to front. I don't usually use it on sloped floors.
Mike you’re a smart man where I’m from people you the vibra screed on slopes and wonder why the floor isn’t sloped lol
Low Flynn if it calls for 2” of slope , I put 3”. The extra inch“ we call taking care of the right hand man factor.
You should really try to bullfloat the same direction as your screed board.
We do sometimes. We find it's the same either way as far as leveling the floor. We screed pretty level so no humps or dips.
Would Sifto Safe Step Ice Salt work as a replacement for the bag of sodium chloride you buy?
Its Calcium chloride. No I don't think that would work.
Is that a 4” slump
He said 6 in another comment.
Question for you, when using fiber mesh in your mix do any of those fibers come up through the surface of the concrete? Can you tell fiber mesh was in the mix from a finished slab point of view? Whats your opinion on using a fiber mesh mix inside a house that was going to be left bare as in concrete floor.
You can take a torch afterwards to burn off any fibers exposed.
Yeah, burn it or get your concrete supplier to to go UltraFiber - wood cellulose based microfiber, works wonders on normal flatwork and fine/short fibers are not noticeable when doing stamped/dyed/facing steps etc. I was leery of the stuff when it first came out, but no more.
Does calcium cause the concrete to "dust"(create a white chalky buildup over and over again) on the surface years later?
Not really, that's mostly from water vapor carrying minerals to the surface through the pores in the concrete. They settle on the surface making it dusty.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thankyou. It was so bad I'd have to scrape an eighth of an inch off the floor every year. It was a storage space. I paid a concrete guy to pour and finish it because of the size. Was a cold rainy day out and I remember the concrete being pretty runny. Probably a 6 or 7 slump. Must have ended up real porous. I appreciate your channel and your effort. Edit, Our local concrete supplier puts fly ash in the mud, at the time I thought it was bad stuff, perhaps causing the dust, until I bought the book "the properties of concrete" and read it. Great read 🤠
Concert company’s don’t use fly ash in the winter it won’t sit up. The slang for fly ash is summer mix ( use it in the summer) because it doesn’t sit up as fast.
Mike Day Everything About Concrete my experience is it dose dust up.
Thankyou guys for your comments, 😊 nothing against the man who did the pour or the Company who supplied the concrete. It did the job I wanted and I was just curious about the properties that caused it. It was poured over 12 inches of compacted pit run (8" and minus rock) + 3 inches of 3/4 minus road base and finish height was 8 inches over grade, all on top of 15 feet depth of top soil with a large french (30 yard of 8-12" rock) drain 8 feet from the building.
What water reducer do you use?
It's supplied by the ready mix company. It's from Grace. gcpat.com/en/solutions/products/adva-cast-high-range-water-reducers
What happens if you pour on a puddled wet vapor barrier after a rain without letting it dry ?
It takes longer. Water must evaporate through the top of the poured concrete. Water wont escape down into the subgrade because of the vapor barrier.
Did I miss it or did'nt you use rebar. I guess you know what you are doing, so why is it not needed in this case?
You didn't watch and listen. GC determined that they don't need rebar.
@@c.knoxville5998 thank you for the answer
Isn't the concrete to green to saw cut that quick? What kind of saw do you use?
Probably a soff-cut saw
Early entry soff cut saws allow you to saw cut immediately after pulling the machine off the slab.
Rebar?
Not on this one, fibermesh instead.
So is that 1% calcium chloride?
No, it's more than that. Closer to 3-4%.
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks, you do great work!
@@MikeDayConcrete is there a rule to how much you can add?
@@MikeDayConcrete 75lbs of cc in 6 yards of 6bag is just over 2%
@@MikeDayConcrete we used Pollard set Southern California when is cool
Mike, how cold will you pour down to? I'm not sure I can pour before we get freezing weather. Would you pour if the high was mid 30's?
We pour all the time in the 30's. I'll pour down to 28 if I have to. Below that the surface can start to freeze.
@@MikeDayConcrete
Poured 37 yards today. First slab! Rain hit at 3pm but we got it in. Thanks for your videos. They helped.
No concrete reinforcement?
And after leaving the concrete plant you ad bags of....something...........here in Holland it is not even allowed to add a drop of water. If you do, you lose warrenty on the concrete!
I just add 2 bags of calcium call it a day
We did today!
“Porn, concrete, and cold weather”
Haha, funny!!
That's how we do it in NEW ENGLAND ! LOL
Im ready for what i call season to start . When it warms up and work starts going balls to the walls . Here in southern Missouri I've never seen in 23 years anyone dump calcium chloride into a truck . Here you just order 1 or 2% either NCA or calcium and hot water. If it's really cold and the boss wants it to set super fast he'll tell us the order High early . Which is 8.62 bag mix then put hot water and 1 or 2 % . Back in my residential days I wish I could have dumped that calcium chloride in the truck on the job site . cuz I've had times where the concrete just didn't set and we will be out there all damn night .
I like being able to control the amount of Cal I put in the truck. Plus, I think the flake works better than the liquid stuff.
Flake is for sure best. 2% from the plant and a bag of cal will get u on ur way!! Here in PA flake is a daily consumable. I cant think of a winter where we didnt use flake.
I watched this with subtitles on and the first words said " let me tell you about porn concrete" I switched to a different video after that .
Concrete doesn't dry! It cures! :)
Why my concrete cures fast? Just didn't sound as good to me.
Mike Day Everything About Concrete
It may not sound good, but people will learn from you that concrete is drying, which is wrong. IMHO
@@Take_And_Make It’s the same thing when everybody says ‘pour’ concrete instead of ‘place’ concrete. Semantically it’s not correct but that’s just what everybody says 🤷♂️
🤜🤛
@@Take_And_Make but then u can come correct them right away and save the day!
I agree concrete cures. Drying is not good because the absence of water (drying) will stop the hydration reaction. When hydration stops strength gain stops also. Keeping newly placed concrete damp allows the curing and strength gain to continue. Someone mentioned curing compound. That helps keep the moisture in the concrete and slows down drying.
I refuse to pour without rebar, definitely voids the warranty.
it may be the steel fibre concrete
I rarely use rebar. Always in footer, but only if code or customer recommend it in anything else. I use 4000 with fiber and don't have problems. Rebar doesn't do anything to prevent cracking. Only keeps it together if it breaks.
Brad Hill up here in Iowa we typically have 3 feet of frost, which moves slabs 6 to 12 inches up and down. I do a lot of tearout and replace, and 98% of the slabs have wire or no reinforcement. Which is great for job security.
@@iowamatt2519 your in a lot different circumstance then I'm in in East Tennessee. That's a lot of freeze thaw movement. Glad I don't have that to deal with.
LOL What's your warranty? I guarantee concrete will crack.
Whats a Yead? lol jk I know you said Yard. lol
I don't have an accent do I? :)
Mike Day Everything About Concrete My old best friend from 6th grade was from Meddybemps Maine and his whole family had an accent ha
Concrete doesn't dry. It hydrates.
yall put your close to dry in cold weather lol
This chap obviously knows absolutely nothing about concrete as he keeps telling people concrete dries.
It doesn't.
Its an exothermic chemical reaction as anyone with even a slight knowledge of concrete knows it DOESN'T dry!