Hey Matt, I work in MotoAmerica SuperBike as a data engineer and have an absurd amount of time working with the K46 engine and that sensor specifically. I can share what I know if you’re interested in using it. It’s a good sensor and design if used properly.
In the old days you might have had to consult books and magazines to convince yourself not to start an ultimately frustrating project and not even get a hint of a chuckle out of it., but nowadays you can watch the experiences of amusing people for almost nothing to in order make the same decision. ...so in that respect technology is making things better.
Electrical engineer here; You google the part number and see if anyone else has reverse engineered the sensor. If they haven't, you 3D print an adapter to jam a regular potentiometer or encoder in the hole and call it a day.
@ShibaSpeed256 13 hours ago Hey Matt, I work in MotoAmerica SuperBike as a data engineer and have an absurd amount of time working with the K46 engine and that sensor specifically. I can share what I know if you’re interested in using it. It’s a good sensor and design if used properly.
@@AKcess_Dnied that's why you design it smaller than the original sensor. There's enough clearance for a small pot or encoder there, just not enough for another off the shelf motorbike part.
The sensor you hammered apart uses a set of capacitance coupled circuits that when placed next to each other form an interference pattern that can be measured with high precision. It's similar to the way that an electronic linear caliper works, but for rotary encoding. It's very precise and predictable. This also means that the coding that comes out of it isn't really baselined in any particular way - it's just returning the absolute polar position of the encoder. That sensor came from an S1000 bike, and there's a procedure to re-calibrate the TPS, which simply remembers the new at rest value for the engine. The pinout is I believe the same as bosch encoders but the bmw tis would be needed to verify that. tl;dr mystery BMW part, good luck decoding it's output.
Would be interesting to hook an oscilloscope on the output, could be PWM or PCM. Could also be some custom serial protocol that makes no sense whatsoever. Not knowing which pin is the output makes it harder of course, maybe someone has a working engine with that thing and can measure the pins on the other side for you, then you'd at least know where to apply power.
@@TheLordNemesis one can always consult schematics for a bike to figure out where is gnd and v+ on a sensor, the third contact must be the signal one then.
Translation: It's easy to make this part work for what you want it to do. Narrator: It was not easy to make this part work for what he wanted it to do.
@ yeah, the math can be a lot at times I had to take calculus 2 at a technical college just to get the credit because at UofSC they don’t allow a formula sheet or calculator.
Matt, I know you’re getting tons of comments. I hope you’ll see this one though, as seeing a new video on your channel has brought me genuine joy and smile to my face as I woke up from general anaesthetic after a surgery to remove some tumours below my left ear. The only problem was that this smile has brought me a lot of pain due to location of the surgery… anyway, I wish you all the best on Salt Flats, may the “gods” of speed be with you! All hail the algorithm!
Someone on speedtalk said a great quote which was something along the lines of: "You don't make a top-flight racer by putting as many clever gimmicks into their car as possible. You do it by getting the basics absolutely and completely perfect." While there's clearly space for innovation, you'll get nowhere without having all of the foundations absolutely dialled already.
I mean I do agree that it does not fit the channel, but I don't mind Matt just picking the sponsor that gives him the most money, everyone just skips through it anyway, as the above guy said, Sponsorblock works really well.
Crazy to see so many comments about it when it's Matt's first time promoting it. I didn't hear about the controversy, I just know about AG1 from Rob Dahm. I wonder how many people will care on his channel.
Most things you hear/see commercials from is some kind of scam, everyone skips the commertial anyways -just be happy that someone is paying your content creators.
@Haps_q I'd rather have people not buy products that have been delivered with mold in them than get another youtube video because I'm not an indecent person. But you do you.
Great episode, Matt - they used brushes like that on the Panavia Tornado to cover the slots in the fuselage that the wings swept into, so you're using an aerospace solution, not an indoor one... 😆
They also ados f2'd a strip of balsa wood to limit travel on the later f105 ailerons at the upper limit to stop an end travel flutter from tipping them on their lids during sudden cross wind corrections those little wings did not do a lot at 200 mph. Maybe he should glue a strip of balsa to the steering end stops to cushion tank slaps and as a nod to aerospace solutions to keeping it blue side up brown side down :)
@@9HighFlyer9 I was going to mention the main gear on the 737 as well. It uses brushes around the wheels along with a smooth "hubcap" to smooth the airflow over the retracted gear without the complication, weight, and additional maintenance of gear doors.
I can related to the middle finger up hand signal displayed to parts of the project that tested your patience for too long. I can also related to the problems we bring on ourselves by a decision made early on to take a certain route for solving a problem.
I'm with you 100%. But you left out the biggest issue. I wholeheartedly applaud Matt for realizing it was a PITA and....(drumroll here) chucking it, and going back to the original idea. Even after spending so much time and money. That's a personal trait (quality?) I lack. GJ
I was going to say exactly this... rusefi proteus has DBW as well as a huge amount of digital, analog, can channels for other 'simplification' options. Uses tunerstudio just like the MS too.
Awesome content. Keep up the great work. You're one of few people that can show the struggle of r&d / engineering and make it super informative and entertaining. Favorite channel.
The thumbnail for this episode - the way the car looks, its texture and colors against the lakebed. Man, one of the coolest, most menacing looking things ever. I'm so here for it. Congrats on all the progress, my friend!
I haven't watched this yet, but my first reaction on seeing the video's title was somewhere between "Should I believe this?" and "Am I expected to believe this?". 🤣😂🤣
@15:06 You can drill aluminum with this equipment, but for best results you have to set the spindle speed between 2,000 and 4,000 RPM, you need to do short 0.03" to 0.06" pecks so chips can clear on their own, and to avoid having the drill bit walk or deviate the shortest bit you can manage to get ahold of will be best. I tend to not use drill bits that are any longer than the router bits I'm using.
Short drill bit is a good idea. we did have some walking but it seems to be within reasonable tolerance. We definitely should have peck drilled. next time for sure.
@@SuperfastMatt Stop bleeding brakes at the caliper nipple. Get a big plastic syringe and FILL the system from the caliper nipple, pushing the air up to the master cylinder instead of trying to get it to come out on the low end. Friend of mine once bled my motorcycle brakes that way Took about 10 minutes, no spillage, no mess ...
@@SuperfastMatt the little carbide PCB drills you can buy on McMaster and other places are lovely for drilling on a router. They are cheap and incredibly good in almost all materials. If you're drilling up to 1/8" diameter give em a try. M.A. Ford makes the ones from McMaster and their recommended parameters are bang on. I tend to peck them at .25xD when drilling dry or near dry. Ethanol mist (Or isopropyl if that is what you have) works very well as an aluminum cutting coolant for a router, which will not make a huge mess. You don't need much.
I can only imagine the psychological damage that might be done to a person sitting in a portable toilet when a car runs into it at high speed provided the person relieving themselves survives. It would certainly resolve any issues the person might have with constipation. Also the new safety requirements of roll cages and other items Osha would place on portable toilets at automotive events.
Speedometer screen: first number gear, next three; speed; or opposite; first three for speed, last for gear. Second screen: Revs. Also, I don't know how you do cabling, i don't know if anyone's recommended it before, but I'm just gonna mention 'controller' cables real quick, as you can buy them in bulk. They might have a different name than the literal translation from Icelandic to English over there, but it's basically the 'standard' name for a cable with multiple, usually minimum of 6 conduits, so for your scenario, you could for example, decide to always have conduit no 1 as ground, and then whatever you need with the others. I believe they come in versions ranging from 0.3mm2 (~35awg) to at least 2.5mm2 (14awg) and from what I saw, they can contain up to 24 conduits, and I would not be surprised if they could contain more.
You could use a spring on the fire extinguisher door if the rules allow it. It doesn't have to be too strong of a spring. The pressure delta should help keep it closed.
matt, i couldnt tell the orientation of your print for your handlethrottle. print an extra for your race. I found that polycarbonate, while strong, will still just as easily seperate along its print lines as other material. Also, pay attention to how hot any of your printed parts will get. PLA will droop almost immediately at even low temps and a small load (look at their datasheet, glass temp?).
Polycarbonate generally has not great layer bonding. Nylon or PET would be a better choice. You have to be careful with nylon because it distorts as it absorbs moisture. PET is relatively new in 3D printing so there are some unknowns. In any case, I wouldn't trust my life to a 3D printed part of any material without an extreme amount of failure testing. For example as the throttle link. Especially not printed in that orientation where the cable captures can easily shear off along the layer lines.
Hi Matt for the electronic position sensor you opened, it might be possible to reverse engineer it using the part numbers on the PCB, I did that in a previous project. If you post a high resolution picture of the PCB (or scan it on a flatbed scanner), I can see what I can do.
looks like an induction rotary encoder. what protocol it might use is more difficult with just three wires, so not can or i2c. maybe some high speed rs232.
Nice seeing your vids. It is what got me interested in land speed again. when younger mid 1980s after getting in way over my head at 200mph on the Interstates around Chicago. Two of our group perished within 3 months. I figured i'd die and I had a young 1yr old, a family! So having kids and all decided on the offroad / motocross arena. Sold all my street bikes and gear, replaced that with offroad gear, raced on tracks only, and never looked back. We'll Kids are grown , I became a tool and die maker. Now I can machine an entire engine and nearly every part within one very well. And somehow after your last vid? A clapped out 1985 Cagiva 2 stroke factory gp bike fell inside my garage. Its a mystery lol (engine is complete and not broken!!!) Maybe I'll see ya in a year Matt. Good luck and be safe! P.S. I have really appreciated you sharing your journey. It fills a hole in folks lives and sometimes inspires them (me!) to get up and move too!
Have you thought about taking a look at aviation for the fire door? I used to work on a Jet Provost which had spring loaded fire doors. You could push the doors open by hand, so there's not a huge amount of spring pressure. But it was enough to keep the doors closed and flush to the fuselage during flight.
Protip: for the speedo issues, pick up a mychron 5. Customizable interface, and super accurate gps speedo. You can also keep track of tons of different temps and other goodies. Ask any karting guy, they're awesome
Over the years I've discovered the wonderful thing about a project is how overjoyed you'll be to no longer have to work on it. Keep Pushing through, Matt.
For the BMW gear (and speed, and lean angle) sensors I found the easiest way to do it is just get the values from the CAN bus. I created a data logger for my 2016 S1000RR track bike and getting the values from CAN was the easiest though the microcontroller you selected doesn't have CAN support :( (I used a Teensy on the bike). CAN bus is available from key or alarm connectors (as well as others)
For the fire extinguisher hole could you use a door on the side like your second one but just have it spring loaded? It holds itself closed with spring pressure, you push it open and then it snaps closed again on it's own. Like the hand holds and foot holes on the side of aircraft used for pre-flighting.
I to get great pleasure in giving the finger to my "projects/ideas" that complicate my life while I'm simplifying my life. Love the video! Good luck in the desert!
From what I could see of the smashed sensor, it looks kind of like Capacitive sensor. There is no wizardry you are going to wield that will give you a restive output.
A couple of those letters (like N and R) would need an 11-segment display (with diagonals), not a 7-segment one; and you'd still never get T to work, it would have to look like an upside-down L.
Just a thought - maybe consider printing that throttle in halves split along a plane coincident to the handlebar axis. That way the layer lines are continuous through your part and will be stronger in shear. I have to imagine that the throttle shearing off at 150+ would be less than ideal. Like I said, just a thought..
Solution for the fire door handle: drill a hole, run a metal wire attached to a weight on the other end, and design an aerodynamic shark fin knob you can pull. Weight will pull it down so it sits flush after it’s shut, but the wire allows it to extend out when pulling it shut. It’ll be way easier to pull shut than having a knob attached to the lid that won’t articulate due to it being in the center, especially with gloves on.
Sure, we have stainless oven and microwave, white fridge and white freezer that don't exactly match. All bought at different times, some in a previous house. Not going to throw away good appliances just to match colours. It's fine, nothing to see here.
Use your ag1 money and buy a haltech ecu and then you can use any electronic throttle pedal and any dbw throttle body, itll also tune itself if you install a wideband o2 add on, itll also do all of the canbus micro controller stuff your doing out of the box with their display unit, yes can be costly but honestly takes so much pain out of the process, can even chuck in alot bigger injectors and just change the injector cc size in software and it will automatically adjust your fuel mappings.
The more I'm forced to work with industrial micro controllers like rockwell PLCs the more I fall in love with arduinos and basic electromechanical components like basic relays.
@@En_Joshi-Godrez how did you know about my recent redundancy that didn't affect my self worth at all and is about to become a 30k pay rise? Man you're clever! Hats off. But fuck AG1 and the soulless scammer behind it. Look into it. Bad news end to end. There's plenty of dull boring shit sponsorships, a handful of good ones like proton VPN, and a bunch of ones only the worst most desperate YTers push, betterhelp, AG1, established titles, and others. We thought Matt was above shilling for low end scum like that. :-(
If that ad 1:49 was about 12 seconds longer, i might consider thinking about the possibility of a parallel universe where i'd be purchasing that drank. I wanna see your facial expression after finishing that murky bog water. 😂 Anyway hail to the mighty algorithm.
For the barrel sensor, Is a Hall effect sensor. It measures the strength and direction of a magnetic field. Probably needs a 12v feed, gnd and the signal would be 0-5v
I totally agree that if you can do it simpler go for it :-) And simpler is relative to whatever you feel good at hehe. In case anyone wonders though - the flapping problem on the throttle with my ETC is usually to do with too high gain of the error amplifier in the PWM controller. To put it simply it has a too fast response. The solution for that is making R7 value smaller and/or R8 larger (for example 10k->1k and 1k->2.4k respectively). I've actually added it as a hint recently to newer version of the calibration spreadsheet. I guess that's one of the prices we pay for an "elegant" analogue design - not that flexible/easy to modify as a SW solution. In my latest design of ETC that is similar to v2.2 byt dedicated to be built into Speeduino ECU I've added some extra pads and resistors to make exactly that mod easier. And sparking od Speeduino - it's similar in capabilities to MegaSquirt but it's like going back to the roots back when MS was cheep and DIY. It seems over the years it became more expensive without bringing much more to the table. Interestingly Speeduino also uses TunerStudio for GUI so it's even not that painful to switch (even though MS is not that popular in Europe anymore I actually do have it in one of my cars. And it can be a pain in the ass sometimes). In case someone is looking for an off-the-shelf ECU solution in relatively low price try the polish EMU from ECUmaster.
Mediocre electromechanical engineer here, that shift position/throttle position sensor looks to me like an inductosyn, with the input of an alternating current, it outputs an alternating current for cosine and sine, depending on the angular position, the amplitude of both output signals vary, regardless I have no idea in what protocol it outputs data, but I do know how it functions
@@mhenlopotter1612James Smith and Bryan Johnson have videos critiquing the product. AG1 basically doesn’t have to list the amount of every ingredient included in the product, can overcharge the customer and gives influencers huge commissions.
@@mhenlopotter1612 They don't prove the products safty and they don't list the ingredient amounts, which is completely unacceptable to endorse as a supplement product.
Post a high resolution pic of the top and bottom of the sensor board and I'll tell you how to read it. Please make sure the part number of the IC is visible. Also, what motorcycle is this off of? Pulling the service diagram may reveal which wires are power and ground.
"Why are we doing this?" and "What benefit is there to doing this?" are ALWAYS good questions to ask at any time on any project. That's a lot of work and burn out must be a real problem. Best of luck! 👍
@@Tom89194 it's not hard to find a sponsorship that sells an overpriced product, and that's the end of it. The problem with these products is they are uncertified for health standards. That's a hard line.
They sell various Hall position sensors for measuring shaft position. The cheapest is just a 0 to 5 volt analog output, like used on eBike thumb throttles, sell for about $10. or build your own for the cost of the hall sensor and 2 magnets. The other more fancy hall sensor (AS5048A) reads out 0 to 360 degrees using SPI output. Can be hooked up to an Arduino directly.
One small part becoming an achilless heel of a whole project (or sub-project) is a very familiar problem to me. And freaking always instead of trying to find a way around I just overcomplicate and bang against the wall trying to make it work but it just doesn't. Sometimes someone comes and gives helpful information and I get to go on. Sometimes I'm stuck in a torture and a broken skull near the frontal lobe.
Can we agree that taking a sponser is great for Matt and the projects. Eventhough it might be a scam. It will help to bring more videos. The algorithm also loves all the comments. - Glad to see the Lands speed car finaly 80% finished.
A lot of people seem not to realize that the entire supplement industry is equally unregulated and that AG1 isn’t remotely unique in its scam-ness. They’re right to resent scams making money, but go after the reason these scams exist: Republicans blocked efforts to curtail the supplement industry’s immunity to ingredient validation in the 90’s. They even got Mel Gibson to do TV ads about a made up fantasy of the fbi raiding your kitchen for your work out supplements
I admire your humility. I think building such things tends to generate humility. I wonder why my dad, who did such building, never got that humility stuff. Oh well. You hate bleeding brakes too? Small world. There must be clever kits for the process. Brake bleeding has been a major pain for too long.
I dont mind your sposorship choices, if thier money helps you project, I'm fine. I was taught as a child not to believe in ads.... This aside, i love your videos.
Just angle grind it, make a electromechanical solution, send cut send a plate, glue it together. Now you have the fast matt Gear system. For speed you need to know the tire diameter well, if you manage that, just throw in a mechanical Speedometer. Or do a optical encoder wheel. Side note, you can also use a encoder or optical encoder on the gear sensor. For now, use the accelerator to know when in neutral.
Is AG1 a scam. Yes. Do i think matt should stop taking their money? No. Scamming scammers is ethically positive. Yall just keep pointing out the scam in the comments for him and he gets a race car and we get to see it!
Why not use a throttle pedal? No cable movement with steering, most of the distance to the rear could be done with a solid (supported) rod, which would probably be lighter than bowden cable, positive closing could be provided with a toe loop.
10:49 I work in electrical engineering and I can tell you 100% you can't read it. It looks to me, and this is only a cursory analysis, but it looks to me like you smashed it with a hammer. Once you smashed it with a hammer, you can't read it.
Masso g3 touch. they're nice if you can cope with the limitations - very good a running Gcode, not great for running a machine in the semi-auto way that you often do for prototyping. (IMO)
That fancy gear-selector potentiometer probably produces a square wave output, which varies the high/low time in relation to the signal change. Check that using an oscilloscope. I cannot tell you, how to wire it. But try following those wire/traces, lookup the IC datasheet or look at components(e.g. capacitor polarity) and try figure out which wires need power/ground or output the signal.
Dump the mega squirt and go with a Holley or even better FuelTech. Much better you won’t regret it. I did and it was a night and day difference. Well worth it. Better tuning. Can-bus wiring! Just look in to it!!! Nice project good luck stay safe!
I like simples, it’s why I raced with two SU carbs. They would run with fuel coming out of the overflow. . . . down the drain pipes . . . . and running through the bulkhead :o) (it was climbing a cliff at the time)
With 8 digit display you should be able (preasumably) show in real time amount of money already sinked in the project.
As long as there is a little "x10" script on the bezel to remind you to scoot the decimal the bad direction.
8 digits ain’t enough buddy 😂😂
"Sank" or "sunk", but definitely not "sinked" 😂
sunk
into
*I FLAT OUT DONT BELIEVE THE TITLE*
he is now in last 10% so it's kinda good enough to call it READY
@@tomaszp1190 then the last 10 of the 10% then the last 10% of that 10%
@@tomaszp1190 but the last 10% of any project is like 70% of the work. x_x
He didn't say it was FINISHED, just ready
@@markusklemm4516 GOOD point...!!!
Are we no longer hailing the algorithm?
Simple enough!
Soon we will be cursing the algorithm, for the algorithm has forsaken us.
It's no longer enough. The algorithm now requires electronic sacrifice.
All hail Al Gore’s Rhythm!
He doesn’t need it anymore, he has his cult (us)
Hey Matt,
I work in MotoAmerica SuperBike as a data engineer and have an absurd amount of time working with the K46 engine and that sensor specifically. I can share what I know if you’re interested in using it.
It’s a good sensor and design if used properly.
If you could explain that sensor and how it works would be excellent, I also want to know how use it for the same reason as matt
Since we're not hailing the algorithm any more, all hail the data engineer from a very specific motorsports subfield.
Pretty sure he said exactly that yes he is interested in someone sharing what they know to be able to use it...
The magic words here being "used properly" and when has Matt ever used anything properly?
@@SoyHectorMartinezI want to know how it works for no other reason than I want to know how it works.
It is now officially 80% complete
I think it's covered in el mirage dust and dirt, or it's 81% done and sitting in SFM garage
81% is 100% done.
All hail the 80-20 rule
It's 100% 80% complete.
Ah yes, 20% of the work is done!
I simplified my car builds down so much that now I live vicariously through others on RUclips.
I'm almost there. Just need some poor sap to buy the srt
😅 true
The simplest, and chespest way 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Same. My projects are so simple that I don't even have them anymore
In the old days you might have had to consult books and magazines to convince yourself not to start an ultimately frustrating project and not even get a hint of a chuckle out of it., but nowadays you can watch the experiences of amusing people for almost nothing to in order make the same decision. ...so in that respect technology is making things better.
Electrical engineer here; You google the part number and see if anyone else has reverse engineered the sensor. If they haven't, you 3D print an adapter to jam a regular potentiometer or encoder in the hole and call it a day.
@ShibaSpeed256
13 hours ago
Hey Matt,
I work in MotoAmerica SuperBike as a data engineer and have an absurd amount of time working with the K46 engine and that sensor specifically. I can share what I know if you’re interested in using it.
It’s a good sensor and design if used properly.
The problem was that any other part was too thick to fit, so making an adapter would only make it fit less.
@@AKcess_Dnied that's why you design it smaller than the original sensor. There's enough clearance for a small pot or encoder there, just not enough for another off the shelf motorbike part.
Somebody tell him that 3d printing the throttle handle is literally a one-snap trip to hell. Noone should trust their life on flimsy layers
@@NKY151 tell me you've only ever printed PLA on a clapped out Ender 3 without telling me... If the throttle sticks he hits the kill switch NBD.
The sensor you hammered apart uses a set of capacitance coupled circuits that when placed next to each other form an interference pattern that can be measured with high precision. It's similar to the way that an electronic linear caliper works, but for rotary encoding. It's very precise and predictable.
This also means that the coding that comes out of it isn't really baselined in any particular way - it's just returning the absolute polar position of the encoder. That sensor came from an S1000 bike, and there's a procedure to re-calibrate the TPS, which simply remembers the new at rest value for the engine. The pinout is I believe the same as bosch encoders but the bmw tis would be needed to verify that.
tl;dr mystery BMW part, good luck decoding it's output.
or...
The simpler explanation:
That's not a potentiometer putting out an analogue signal.
It's a rotary position sensor putting out a digital signal.
Cool info
Would be interesting to hook an oscilloscope on the output, could be PWM or PCM. Could also be some custom serial protocol that makes no sense whatsoever. Not knowing which pin is the output makes it harder of course, maybe someone has a working engine with that thing and can measure the pins on the other side for you, then you'd at least know where to apply power.
@@TheLordNemesis one can always consult schematics for a bike to figure out where is gnd and v+ on a sensor, the third contact must be the signal one then.
Translation: It's easy to make this part work for what you want it to do.
Narrator: It was not easy to make this part work for what he wanted it to do.
Glad to see your leg works again. Good luck on the flats!
It’s temporary
@@daleolson3506 Technically, we all are
This channel is half the reason I’m studying mechanical engineering, because it makes me want to build dumb crap.
Is AG1 the other half?
@ nah, it’s the desire to enter FD and embarrass myself in pro-am
I'd do the same if I was just halfway competent at math. But hey, I can always build dumb stuff in my spare time.
@ yeah, the math can be a lot at times
I had to take calculus 2 at a technical college just to get the credit because at UofSC they don’t allow a formula sheet or calculator.
You don't need student loans for that. You can build a bunch of dumb crap, even without an education.
Matt, I know you’re getting tons of comments. I hope you’ll see this one though, as seeing a new video on your channel has brought me genuine joy and smile to my face as I woke up from general anaesthetic after a surgery to remove some tumours below my left ear. The only problem was that this smile has brought me a lot of pain due to location of the surgery… anyway, I wish you all the best on Salt Flats, may the “gods” of speed be with you! All hail the algorithm!
Someone on speedtalk said a great quote which was something along the lines of:
"You don't make a top-flight racer by putting as many clever gimmicks into their car as possible. You do it by getting the basics absolutely and completely perfect."
While there's clearly space for innovation, you'll get nowhere without having all of the foundations absolutely dialled already.
Sponsors like Send Cut Send were fine because they are appropriate for the channel and help other fabricators, but the snake oil is no joy.
I mean I do agree that it does not fit the channel, but I don't mind Matt just picking the sponsor that gives him the most money, everyone just skips through it anyway, as the above guy said, Sponsorblock works really well.
AG is a scam... NZ scammer came to the us to dive into the unregulated supplement industry for easy money...
@@nicolasdiaz5058 well yes, but promoting snakeoil should be shamed, anytime, anywhere.
@@PaladinofRealm not just snake oil, dangerous snake oil. There are credible reports of them shipping moldy and out of date ingredients knowingly
@@Depl0rable10 geeez that's bad.
The "I may be a little burnt out on this project" was so real, i felt it in my soul
Crazy to see AG1 promoted when its been called out for the scam it is.
soylent green
Crazy to see so many comments about it when it's Matt's first time promoting it.
I didn't hear about the controversy, I just know about AG1 from Rob Dahm. I wonder how many people will care on his channel.
Most things you hear/see commercials from is some kind of scam, everyone skips the commertial anyways -just be happy that someone is paying your content creators.
@Haps_q I'd rather have people not buy products that have been delivered with mold in them than get another youtube video because I'm not an indecent person. But you do you.
@@Haps_q not in any country that cares about there citizens
Great episode, Matt - they used brushes like that on the Panavia Tornado to cover the slots in the fuselage that the wings swept into, so you're using an aerospace solution, not an indoor one... 😆
The b-1 bomber also. And the main gear on the 737
They also ados f2'd a strip of balsa wood to limit travel on the later f105 ailerons at the upper limit to stop an end travel flutter from tipping them on their lids during sudden cross wind corrections those little wings did not do a lot at 200 mph. Maybe he should glue a strip of balsa to the steering end stops to cushion tank slaps and as a nod to aerospace solutions to keeping it blue side up brown side down :)
@@leonmusk1040 Today I learned about a new adhesive, so thanks for that.
@@9HighFlyer9 I was going to mention the main gear on the 737 as well. It uses brushes around the wheels along with a smooth "hubcap" to smooth the airflow over the retracted gear without the complication, weight, and additional maintenance of gear doors.
@@Surestick88 copying boeing.... foreboding....
I can related to the middle finger up hand signal displayed to parts of the project that tested your patience for too long. I can also related to the problems we bring on ourselves by a decision made early on to take a certain route for solving a problem.
I'm with you 100%. But you left out the biggest issue. I wholeheartedly applaud Matt for realizing it was a PITA and....(drumroll here) chucking it, and going back to the original idea. Even after spending so much time and money.
That's a personal trait (quality?) I lack. GJ
Rusefi is an open source ECU, has drive by wire built in, uses tuner studio, and they have an ultra affordable version that is just $175
I was going to say exactly this... rusefi proteus has DBW as well as a huge amount of digital, analog, can channels for other 'simplification' options. Uses tunerstudio just like the MS too.
And Speeduino! Which I happen to have one laying around.
Awesome content. Keep up the great work. You're one of few people that can show the struggle of r&d / engineering and make it super informative and entertaining. Favorite channel.
My favorite channel too!
Right along side “Works By Design”
Glad its 80% finished!
The thumbnail for this episode - the way the car looks, its texture and colors against the lakebed. Man, one of the coolest, most menacing looking things ever. I'm so here for it. Congrats on all the progress, my friend!
Ayy nice shout 🤘
I haven't watched this yet, but my first reaction on seeing the video's title was somewhere between "Should I believe this?" and "Am I expected to believe this?". 🤣😂🤣
@15:06 You can drill aluminum with this equipment, but for best results you have to set the spindle speed between 2,000 and 4,000 RPM, you need to do short 0.03" to 0.06" pecks so chips can clear on their own, and to avoid having the drill bit walk or deviate the shortest bit you can manage to get ahold of will be best. I tend to not use drill bits that are any longer than the router bits I'm using.
Short drill bit is a good idea. we did have some walking but it seems to be within reasonable tolerance. We definitely should have peck drilled. next time for sure.
@@SuperfastMatt Stop bleeding brakes at the caliper nipple.
Get a big plastic syringe and FILL the system from the caliper nipple, pushing the air up to the master cylinder instead of trying to get it to come out on the low end.
Friend of mine once bled my motorcycle brakes that way
Took about 10 minutes, no spillage, no mess ...
@@SuperfastMatt the little carbide PCB drills you can buy on McMaster and other places are lovely for drilling on a router. They are cheap and incredibly good in almost all materials. If you're drilling up to 1/8" diameter give em a try. M.A. Ford makes the ones from McMaster and their recommended parameters are bang on.
I tend to peck them at .25xD when drilling dry or near dry. Ethanol mist (Or isopropyl if that is what you have) works very well as an aluminum cutting coolant for a router, which will not make a huge mess. You don't need much.
@@Wannes_seems smart
6:09 Now imagine if modern car manufacturers could fathom that sentence. That’s the reason all cars I own are older
I can only imagine the psychological damage that might be done to a person sitting in a portable toilet when a car runs into it at high speed provided the person relieving themselves survives. It would certainly resolve any issues the person might have with constipation. Also the new safety requirements of roll cages and other items Osha would place on portable toilets at automotive events.
I think OSHA would probably make the reasonable suggestion to move the toilets first..
Speedometer screen: first number gear, next three; speed; or opposite; first three for speed, last for gear.
Second screen: Revs.
Also, I don't know how you do cabling, i don't know if anyone's recommended it before, but I'm just gonna mention 'controller' cables real quick, as you can buy them in bulk. They might have a different name than the literal translation from Icelandic to English over there, but it's basically the 'standard' name for a cable with multiple, usually minimum of 6 conduits, so for your scenario, you could for example, decide to always have conduit no 1 as ground, and then whatever you need with the others.
I believe they come in versions ranging from 0.3mm2 (~35awg) to at least 2.5mm2 (14awg) and from what I saw, they can contain up to 24 conduits, and I would not be surprised if they could contain more.
3:17 DStage! That chap has done all sorts and has been lurking in your discord since the early days lmao. good guy!
You could use a spring on the fire extinguisher door if the rules allow it. It doesn't have to be too strong of a spring. The pressure delta should help keep it closed.
Glad to hear that the lack of videos is just cause you’re busy doing stuff on the car and not anything serious. Good luck with the speed runs
You turned down betterhelp sponsorships because of the backlash. Please now do the same for AG1. Basic respect for your audience.
Well put.
100%.. there's gotta be legit sponsors out there to choose from..
Can't we just let the man make his money and trust people to do their own independent research before buying the product
@@zachmaster426no
Just skip it. Can't believe it bothers you that much
Can totally relate to spending so much time and effort prepping a race car that when race day arrives the motivation is completely spent…
matt, i couldnt tell the orientation of your print for your handlethrottle. print an extra for your race. I found that polycarbonate, while strong, will still just as easily seperate along its print lines as other material.
Also, pay attention to how hot any of your printed parts will get. PLA will droop almost immediately at even low temps and a small load (look at their datasheet, glass temp?).
Idk why i posted this. Just watched your 3d printer video. You definitely know more than me lol.
@@ryanfoss6243 I know nothing of the said subject matter. But I applaud your humility. You'll go far.
If it snaps at speed, he's fucked. So yes, the concern is real
Polycarbonate generally has not great layer bonding. Nylon or PET would be a better choice. You have to be careful with nylon because it distorts as it absorbs moisture. PET is relatively new in 3D printing so there are some unknowns. In any case, I wouldn't trust my life to a 3D printed part of any material without an extreme amount of failure testing. For example as the throttle link. Especially not printed in that orientation where the cable captures can easily shear off along the layer lines.
Hi Matt for the electronic position sensor you opened, it might be possible to reverse engineer it using the part numbers on the PCB, I did that in a previous project. If you post a high resolution picture of the PCB (or scan it on a flatbed scanner), I can see what I can do.
looks like an induction rotary encoder. what protocol it might use is more difficult with just three wires, so not can or i2c. maybe some high speed rs232.
@@MC-Racing it might be 4 wires, but ground is going through case?
@@MC-Racing does LIM use 3 wires?
@@darekmistrz4364 may just be.. but for low voltage automotive signals they usually prefer not to use actual vehicle ground for signalling
@@LordPhobos6502 i don't know, im not familiar :-)
Nice seeing your vids. It is what got me interested in land speed again. when younger mid 1980s after getting in way over my head at 200mph on the Interstates around Chicago. Two of our group perished within 3 months. I figured i'd die and I had a young 1yr old, a family!
So having kids and all decided on the offroad / motocross arena. Sold all my street bikes and gear, replaced that with offroad gear, raced on tracks only, and never looked back.
We'll Kids are grown , I became a tool and die maker. Now I can machine an entire engine and nearly every part within one very well. And somehow after your last vid?
A clapped out 1985 Cagiva 2 stroke factory gp bike fell inside my garage. Its a mystery lol (engine is complete and not broken!!!) Maybe I'll see ya in a year Matt. Good luck and be safe!
P.S. I have really appreciated you sharing your journey. It fills a hole in folks lives and sometimes inspires them (me!) to get up and move too!
taht gear selector looks like a hall effect sensor, not a potentiometer
Have you thought about taking a look at aviation for the fire door?
I used to work on a Jet Provost which had spring loaded fire doors. You could push the doors open by hand, so there's not a huge amount of spring pressure. But it was enough to keep the doors closed and flush to the fuselage during flight.
Best of luck on your runs! I hope things go so well that you are both surprised and pleased.
That is actually a thing that happens. So I'm told. 😅
Protip: for the speedo issues, pick up a mychron 5. Customizable interface, and super accurate gps speedo. You can also keep track of tons of different temps and other goodies. Ask any karting guy, they're awesome
You never fail to keep it interesting!
As always, we appreciate the work you put into these videos. Always entertaining.
The "potentiometer" is likely actually a quadrature rotary encoder.
Over the years I've discovered the wonderful thing about a project is how overjoyed you'll be to no longer have to work on it. Keep Pushing through, Matt.
For the BMW gear (and speed, and lean angle) sensors I found the easiest way to do it is just get the values from the CAN bus. I created a data logger for my 2016 S1000RR track bike and getting the values from CAN was the easiest though the microcontroller you selected doesn't have CAN support :( (I used a Teensy on the bike). CAN bus is available from key or alarm connectors (as well as others)
For the fire extinguisher hole could you use a door on the side like your second one but just have it spring loaded? It holds itself closed with spring pressure, you push it open and then it snaps closed again on it's own. Like the hand holds and foot holes on the side of aircraft used for pre-flighting.
I to get great pleasure in giving the finger to my "projects/ideas" that complicate my life while I'm simplifying my life. Love the video! Good luck in the desert!
Definitively THE coolest project on this channel
YOU'RE GOING TO THE CRUMPLE ZONE FOR THAT AG1 SPONSORSHIP
damn ok
From what I could see of the smashed sensor, it looks kind of like Capacitive sensor. There is no wizardry you are going to wield that will give you a restive output.
08:25 Gear indicator NEUT FIRS SECO THIR FOUR FIFT 😁
A couple of those letters (like N and R) would need an 11-segment display (with diagonals), not a 7-segment one; and you'd still never get T to work, it would have to look like an upside-down L.
Just a thought - maybe consider printing that throttle in halves split along a plane coincident to the handlebar axis. That way the layer lines are continuous through your part and will be stronger in shear. I have to imagine that the throttle shearing off at 150+ would be less than ideal. Like I said, just a thought..
03:12 - "IN THE BIN!!!" 😏😉🤣🤣🤣 😎🇬🇧
(Martin - MCM)
Solution for the fire door handle: drill a hole, run a metal wire attached to a weight on the other end, and design an aerodynamic shark fin knob you can pull. Weight will pull it down so it sits flush after it’s shut, but the wire allows it to extend out when pulling it shut. It’ll be way easier to pull shut than having a knob attached to the lid that won’t articulate due to it being in the center, especially with gloves on.
You could also make the entire door springlaoded. No closing needed for that.
WTH Matt, Stainless Microwave, black oven and white fridge. Tell me you are an engineer without telling me you are an engineer! ;)
why the stainless microwave? shouldn't it be black too?
Each item was on sale/found at different times.
Sure, we have stainless oven and microwave, white fridge and white freezer that don't exactly match. All bought at different times, some in a previous house. Not going to throw away good appliances just to match colours. It's fine, nothing to see here.
Use your ag1 money and buy a haltech ecu and then you can use any electronic throttle pedal and any dbw throttle body, itll also tune itself if you install a wideband o2 add on, itll also do all of the canbus micro controller stuff your doing out of the box with their display unit, yes can be costly but honestly takes so much pain out of the process, can even chuck in alot bigger injectors and just change the injector cc size in software and it will automatically adjust your fuel mappings.
Oh cool, I can remember that once there was a jaguar in your driveway. Are you digging that one now?
Love your vids and the frequent upload👌🏻
Good luck on the flats. Can’t wait to see the car covered in stickers!
The more I'm forced to work with industrial micro controllers like rockwell PLCs the more I fall in love with arduinos and basic electromechanical components like basic relays.
I watched your AG1 spot because that's how much I love your channel and work. Which says more than you can ever really know
If he has read the dozens of attacks on the AG1 scam sponsorship he'll know. Hope he learns his lesson.
Try getting a job. That will improve your self-worth.
@@En_Joshi-Godrez how did you know about my recent redundancy that didn't affect my self worth at all and is about to become a 30k pay rise? Man you're clever! Hats off. But fuck AG1 and the soulless scammer behind it. Look into it. Bad news end to end. There's plenty of dull boring shit sponsorships, a handful of good ones like proton VPN, and a bunch of ones only the worst most desperate YTers push, betterhelp, AG1, established titles, and others. We thought Matt was above shilling for low end scum like that. :-(
It means you don't value your own time ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If that ad 1:49 was about 12 seconds longer, i might consider thinking about the possibility of a parallel universe where i'd be purchasing that drank. I wanna see your facial expression after finishing that murky bog water. 😂 Anyway hail to the mighty algorithm.
For the barrel sensor, Is a Hall effect sensor. It measures the strength and direction of a magnetic field. Probably needs a 12v feed, gnd and the signal would be 0-5v
I'm sorry sir, you dont just "put tape over the hole", you carefully apply SPEED TAPE over the hole.
I totally agree that if you can do it simpler go for it :-) And simpler is relative to whatever you feel good at hehe.
In case anyone wonders though - the flapping problem on the throttle with my ETC is usually to do with too high gain of the error amplifier in the PWM controller. To put it simply it has a too fast response. The solution for that is making R7 value smaller and/or R8 larger (for example 10k->1k and 1k->2.4k respectively). I've actually added it as a hint recently to newer version of the calibration spreadsheet. I guess that's one of the prices we pay for an "elegant" analogue design - not that flexible/easy to modify as a SW solution.
In my latest design of ETC that is similar to v2.2 byt dedicated to be built into Speeduino ECU I've added some extra pads and resistors to make exactly that mod easier.
And sparking od Speeduino - it's similar in capabilities to MegaSquirt but it's like going back to the roots back when MS was cheep and DIY. It seems over the years it became more expensive without bringing much more to the table. Interestingly Speeduino also uses TunerStudio for GUI so it's even not that painful to switch (even though MS is not that popular in Europe anymore I actually do have it in one of my cars. And it can be a pain in the ass sometimes).
In case someone is looking for an off-the-shelf ECU solution in relatively low price try the polish EMU from ECUmaster.
When he starts messing with that Arduino rocket science shit, that’s when I realize I shouldn’t have dropped out of elementary school lol.
If you are willing to put in a couple hours a week it's really not that hard to get into.
I'm probably as knowledgeable ad you with arduinos, but they are awesome
if you're literate you can learn it
@SuperfastMatt you can make it. You can do it. Go Matt, go Matt.
„4 segment display“. This looks like a 4-digit 7-segment display if I’m not mistaken?
What, you think a (mediocre) mechanical engineer can count? Nah, we leave that to the mathematicians.
@Numfuddle I made a face every time he said it, too
Freakin Engineers! 🙄🙄
👍👍
Glad to see that apparently your leg is working very well! Always enjoy your videos, Matt!
Mediocre electromechanical engineer here, that shift position/throttle position sensor looks to me like an inductosyn, with the input of an alternating current, it outputs an alternating current for cosine and sine, depending on the angular position, the amplitude of both output signals vary, regardless I have no idea in what protocol it outputs data, but I do know how it functions
Don't inductosyn encoders have more contacts? everything I've seen shows 6 or more pins of these types of encoders.
@ yes, but I believe the circuit bord inside the sensor takes care of that and generates some sort of signal, which probably only the BMW ecu can read
Great job on the video Matt! Thanks for making it.
Please dont take sponsorships from AG1.
Care to elaborate a bit further?
@@mhenlopotter1612James Smith and Bryan Johnson have videos critiquing the product. AG1 basically doesn’t have to list the amount of every ingredient included in the product, can overcharge the customer and gives influencers huge commissions.
They're not really what they claim to be. I don't recall what exactly they're missing, but nutritionists say that what AG1 is selling is kinda bs
An actual ripoff with no way to track what you put into your body.
@@mhenlopotter1612 They don't prove the products safty and they don't list the ingredient amounts, which is completely unacceptable to endorse as a supplement product.
Post a high resolution pic of the top and bottom of the sensor board and I'll tell you how to read it. Please make sure the part number of the IC is visible. Also, what motorcycle is this off of? Pulling the service diagram may reveal which wires are power and ground.
“AG1” Sure you do, Matt. Sure you do….
soylent green
@@waynekerrgoodstyle , I think people get it now. No need to add your perceived witty comment underneath every other comment.
"Why are we doing this?" and "What benefit is there to doing this?" are ALWAYS good questions to ask at any time on any project. That's a lot of work and burn out must be a real problem. Best of luck! 👍
Matt, please pick a different sponsor.
Sometimes there is only one sponsor willing.... Then you have to decide if you hate the business enough to skip on having any sponsor at all.
@@Tom89194 I doubt that for a channel of his size. Don't promote products relating to mental health and nutrition.
@@Tom89194 sparespace will sponsor anyone. It's not hard to find a product sponsor for a poor value product and that's the end of it.
@@Tom89194 it's not hard to find a sponsorship that sells an overpriced product, and that's the end of it. The problem with these products is they are uncertified for health standards. That's a hard line.
No one is forcing you to buy it
They sell various Hall position sensors for measuring shaft position. The cheapest is just a 0 to 5 volt analog output, like used on eBike thumb throttles, sell for about $10. or build your own for the cost of the hall sensor and 2 magnets. The other more fancy hall sensor (AS5048A) reads out 0 to 360 degrees using SPI output. Can be hooked up to an Arduino directly.
I really enjoed your face when you were drinking ag1 scam
One small part becoming an achilless heel of a whole project (or sub-project) is a very familiar problem to me. And freaking always instead of trying to find a way around I just overcomplicate and bang against the wall trying to make it work but it just doesn't. Sometimes someone comes and gives helpful information and I get to go on. Sometimes I'm stuck in a torture and a broken skull near the frontal lobe.
Can we agree that taking a sponser is great for Matt and the projects. Eventhough it might be a scam. It will help to bring more videos. The algorithm also loves all the comments. - Glad to see the Lands speed car finaly 80% finished.
How about he gets paid to build the car, and we get to call it a scam in the comment section. Sounds like a good deal to me.
A lot of people seem not to realize that the entire supplement industry is equally unregulated and that AG1 isn’t remotely unique in its scam-ness.
They’re right to resent scams making money, but go after the reason these scams exist: Republicans blocked efforts to curtail the supplement industry’s immunity to ingredient validation in the 90’s.
They even got Mel Gibson to do TV ads about a made up fantasy of the fbi raiding your kitchen for your work out supplements
Good luck for your speed run dude - much love from 🏴
The AG1 scam…😢
I'm fairly sure it's not a scam, but please enlighten me
soylent green
@@undercatviper do your own research, like the people who have looked into ag1. Don’t be lazy. It’s a scam and the ceo is a conman
@@undercatviper Almost no one needs these supplements, but yet AG1 aggressively claims you do. What they are selling is nothing but expensive pee.
I admire your humility. I think building such things tends to generate humility.
I wonder why my dad, who did such building, never got that humility stuff. Oh well.
You hate bleeding brakes too? Small world. There must be clever kits for the process. Brake bleeding has been a major pain for too long.
No stickers?
I bought an X1C because of your last videos and have found myself in a rabbit hole of making all sorts of parts for my track car.. thanks bro lmao
I dont mind your sposorship choices, if thier money helps you project, I'm fine. I was taught as a child not to believe in ads....
This aside, i love your videos.
Thats a wonderful way to put it. 22 minutes of show, with bathroom and food and drink breaks. Lol.
@kwisin1337 ... I don't know, I skip it...Roftl...!
American morality system (no morals)
Just angle grind it, make a electromechanical solution, send cut send a plate, glue it together.
Now you have the fast matt Gear system.
For speed you need to know the tire diameter well, if you manage that, just throw in a mechanical Speedometer.
Or do a optical encoder wheel.
Side note, you can also use a encoder or optical encoder on the gear sensor.
For now, use the accelerator to know when in neutral.
Is AG1 a scam. Yes. Do i think matt should stop taking their money? No. Scamming scammers is ethically positive. Yall just keep pointing out the scam in the comments for him and he gets a race car and we get to see it!
Your comment is an entire fallacy. Lmao
It's a pyramid scam, in many cases.
Why not use a throttle pedal? No cable movement with steering, most of the distance to the rear could be done with a solid (supported) rod, which would probably be lighter than bowden cable, positive closing could be provided with a toe loop.
10:49 I work in electrical engineering and I can tell you 100% you can't read it. It looks to me, and this is only a cursory analysis, but it looks to me like you smashed it with a hammer. Once you smashed it with a hammer, you can't read it.
SuperfastMatt and The Send Club both releasing a video on the same day! This feels like Christmas come early!
Anyone? Anyone?
15:03 Damn that's a professional looking CNC controller. Im a little jealous
Maybe very jealous
Masso g3 touch. they're nice if you can cope with the limitations - very good a running Gcode, not great for running a machine in the semi-auto way that you often do for prototyping. (IMO)
I feel your pain. Car is coming along nice. Look forward to seeing some runs.
You shouldn't be sponsoring snake oil supplement products. Please watch some videos by professional dieticians.
soylent green
I mean, his ad read came across as "I don't know what this stuff is, but I need sponsor money to fund my projects."
@MikeStavola just use squrespace or something.
Apart from maybe kiwico it's all snake oil. Mental health, VPN, data broker deletion services... Never get anything that is advertised on social media
That fancy gear-selector potentiometer probably produces a square wave output, which varies the high/low time in relation to the signal change.
Check that using an oscilloscope.
I cannot tell you, how to wire it.
But try following those wire/traces, lookup the IC datasheet or look at components(e.g. capacitor polarity) and try figure out which wires need power/ground or output the signal.
AG1 - It's got what the body craves
soylent green
@@waynekerrgoodstyle ... is people!
Dump the mega squirt and go with a Holley or even better FuelTech. Much better you won’t regret it. I did and it was a night and day difference. Well worth it. Better tuning. Can-bus wiring! Just look in to it!!! Nice project good luck stay safe!
Is AG1 soylent green? 🤔🤣
I did not understand a word coming out of your mouth, but I could not stop from listening. Good job!
AG 1 sponsorshi spotted
Dislike given
I'm looking forward to a new project too.
That said of course I think everyone wants to see the results
i genuinely enjoy this channel :)
I like simples, it’s why I raced with two SU carbs. They would run with fuel coming out of the overflow. . . . down the drain pipes . . . . and running through the bulkhead :o) (it was climbing a cliff at the time)