Lower Control Arm Replacement | Good Vibes Only | Mazda 6 2014-2017
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- This week, lets address an issue that I didn't know was an issue. I was working on Maxie to replace the sway bar end links and install camber bolts and low and behold, my ball joint boot was ripped.
So while the car was down due to waiting on parts anyway, might as well replace them.
It wasn't that bad of a job, besides the driver side front bolt under the transmission pan. That was a pain, but not impossible.
I was quoted $700 to replace them both. I paid less than $200 (amzn.to/3Azm5ei) for both LCA's at the time of this video.
Tune in.
2014-2017 Mazda 6 LCA:
Driver side: amzn.to/3qXvieG
Passenger side: amzn.to/3rTHpZk
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For all you Mazda 6 peeps out there... my 2015 just clicked 311,000 miles! Still runs and shifts like new and still getting 33-35 hwy mpg. The only thing I’ve ever had to do to this car is a belt tensioner (buy the OEM version from Mazda...trust me) and now a lower control arm.
311,000! Wow! I’ll be there one day, lol.
That's confidence inspiring. 130k here!
I have 250k on my 15, have done a wheel bearing and that's it. Well now I need to do this repair but no complaints.
congrats! have you ever changed the transmission fluid?
Oops I already bought the Gates one😂
Darius, I wanna thank you a ton for your awesome videos on this generation Mazda 6. I’ve had my 2014 for only a couple months and your videos have already helped me tremendously!
Great to hear! It was next to no videos on this platform when I started and it’s good to hear and see that my videos are helping so many people!
Thanks for making this video, definitely makes me confident that I can tackle this job. I regularly spray all suspension boots and bushings at all four corners with AT 205 to preserve the rubber to hopefully prolong their lifespan. So far so good after 123k miles on my 2014 6 Touring.
I definitely think the driver side would have been easier if I had a 3 or 4” longer extension. But overall it wasn’t too bad. The passenger side went like butter.
200k on my '14 Mazda 6 GT. Replacing LCA this weekend
Nice tutorial video! For anyone else having trouble getting the ball joint out of the spindle, I would highly recommend picking up a harbor freight ball joint separator tool for $20. Mine wouldn't come out no matter how much beating and prying I put on it. The ball joint tool made (somewhat) quick work of it. Just know that if you're trying to remove the control arm to replace a bushing, there's a decent chance that it will tear up the ball joint boot in the process. Additionally, you may need to add a nut or something else on top of the ball joint when pressing it out.
Very true. I had one I had to use on my protege.
Much better to replace the whole control arm, due to age on the rubber bushings. They dry rot and will leave you doing this job again if you only do ball joints!
I just went through this yesterday. That front bolt IS "stupid tight"! and that is no joke! I got a long breaker bar with that swivel and socket, came across from the passenger side of the car and used good ole foot and leg power and it worked! Need leverage on this one! Lining up the ball joint on the new one for me was a bigger PIA! Seemed like the new one was an inch too short in reach, but I think the strut had extended and I couldn't get it back up. Tried using a jack and all it did was go away from where it needed. About to give up on it, when I tried bolting the rear first, ball joint in the knuckle and front aligned in the opening. Still too short to insert the front bolt. I lowered the jack and it popped right into place. Had to use a long punch to align the bushing and that's all she wrote! Now lots of these videos look so easy like this video (mine was anything but when it came to putting the ball joint in), but I'm here to tell you, patience is key! Next is the passenger side and hopefully goes much smoother than the driver side. Good luck all!
The passenger side is a breeze compared to the driver side! God speed on the remaining repairs!
Thank you!🤞
@@DariusBuildz Well Darius, I finally got my hands on my daughter's car again to finish the job replacing the passenger side lower control arm. Yes, it was a breeze when comparing to removing the driver side. I think what happened on the driver side is that the strut extended downward and made it difficult for me to align the ball joint in the knuckle. This time I took a rachet strap under the knuckle and to the top of the coil spring to keep it from extending. MAN that made a huge difference! It went much smoother. Another tip for those reading and doing this job, I soaked the cinch bolt area with PB Blaster, used a heat gun and it really helps to split the cinch bolt opening on the backside a little. This helps break free any rust and allows penetrant to do its job better. Then using a 2lb sledge to beat down the control arm to free the ball joint. Thanks again for your video!
Your video safes my life, I was struggling with that same bolt. Thanks for the help 💯💯💯
It’s good to know it just wasn’t me, 😂. Glad it helped!
i'm in the middle of this job and struggling with this same damn bolt. Did you just get a long extension and helper bar to brake it loose? i've thrown fire and penetrating anti seize spray all it and nada
@@GetBusyLivinwhat did you end up doing? Everything else seems straightforward but trying to figure out if ima need a help bar too
@@giannizamora7247definitely needed a helper bar or long handle ratchet to get enough torque. Also, I had to hit it with a flame for a good 5 mins straight before it finally gave way. The other side just required a bit of penetrating spray and it broke loose
I gave up and put back together cuz had to work that night lol 😂 maybe I'll get around to it. Parts weren't bad but I buy in pairs to replace parts at same time. Just need a bigger cheater bar I guess xD
Watching this after a complete ball joint fail on my front driver side of my 2014 Mazda 6. Debating trying to fix it myself or have it towed to a shop. Either way thanks for the video you make it look easy!
It’s not too bad if you have the tools. It’s always good to see the process to determine if you want to tackle it or have someone else do it. Either way, I hope it’s fixed soon!
Mazda quoted me like $1200 to do both sides. No thanks, I have the tools and time I'll do myself and keep my money!
2009 Mazda 6 O logged 551.899 miles from brand new. Oil change every 5000. Transmission flush every 70k coolant flush every 60k . tranmission went out at 350.000 bought used on lasted for ever.engine still original. 4 banger lasted for ever and ever.
hell yeah! I like those stories and I hope mine make it that far!
@@DariusBuildz I would still drive mine but some hippie bought a 70k HUV 3 days before Christmas I had just paid my car off and he ran a red light and totaled both of our cars.
I'm honestly disappointed when I look up a problem on my mazda and Darius doesn't pop up. Like there's lots of other people making videos but Darius gets me out of a jam 100% of the time.
Hell Yeah! I have ran across most issues! And as it continues, I will keep making videos on how I fix them!
finally attempted this, aligning the bolts to the holes when installing was alot more challenging than it seemeed in the video 😅
Nice work! I’ve aligned many things so it kinda works like clockwork for me 😂. But a screwdriver to align in the hole works magic too. But sometimes the bushings and whatever gunk/rust in the cavity.
@DariusBuildz Ah! Good tip with the screw driver! I'll try that for the otherside , thanks!
Good job on the LCAs. The creaking of the one bolt finally coming lose is one we all know too well 😂
I was a little worried that bolt was gonna ruin my day by snapping the head off 😂
@@DariusBuildz -- Got done with the work on the Mazda 6. $200 for the LCA and wheel bearing. Easy peasy.
7:30 ish helped me understand more, I'm having trouble with my mazda 6 touring and this is now why. Cracked screen protector, busted knuckles, hurting wrist and a knee later I need to remove that dumb bolt.
I’m glad me explaining that part helped someone! And I’m glad it helped you!
I'm going on 2 hours and can't get that bolt pulled, already broke a Ratchet handle and socket.
I did get the pass side control armed installed with no problem, I think this last one is just the location.
thanks for creating this video.
Hopefully you got it. The breaker bar and Jack the only way I got that bolt loose. If the engine was a tad higher, I don’t think it would be an issue. Everyone has issues with that bolt seems like
@@DariusBuildz i finally got it, bout some 1/2 drive extension and used the impact to break it.
Good lawd, other than changing my tires that’s the first time I EVER EVER EVER worked on a car, thanks for the great video and I’m glad I saw your struggles.
Can’t believe how easy your ball joint came out. Took me about an hour of pounding it and using a ball joint splitter. 😂
I too had a difficult time removing that ball joint, but heat, patience and banging and lots of it goes a long way on rusted parts!
Great filming and explanation Darius! You built up my confidence in replacing my ball joints bro!
You are welcome and that’s why I create my videos! 🙏🏽
I may have to end up doing this. Been unable to locate the source of intermittent noise on the driver side along with random shaking while driving and braking above 60 mph.
I replaced the sway links as they were visibly worn and didn’t change anything. Thr joints on the LCA look ok, but I am at 134k now.
If so, this video shows that it’s quite feasible so thank you for this
For the clunk, also look at the strut mounts as well. The oem ones have gone bad before and can cause a clunk.
@@DariusBuildz will do!
I have the same issues. I'm debating whether to get into this or not. Before winter is here (Québec Canada)...
@@pascalparent3137 easier than I thought it would be. And yeah I would-especially if you don’t have a garage.
Have you looked at your control arm bushings? also your motor mounts have bushings as well and will cause vibrations and noises if the rubber is rotted out.
That bolt that he was struggling with was a pain in the butt the get off. I would recommend torching it or using the jack to lift up the control arm. That helped me to remove it
It seems like that bolt fights everyone, 😆
Thanks for the awesome video. Mine went smoothly for the most part. Must of pinched or broke an ABS/Speed sensor wire on the driver side. Showing all kinds of codes for abs and traction control.
Aww man. If it is the speed sensor, you can buy that separate and just replace that.
I don't know how you Hammered out the ball joint so effortlessly. I pounded on the control arm with a mini sledge and it's not budging
My buddy couldn’t hammer his out either.
@@DariusBuildz I got it eventually but man that thing was stubborn.
Corrosion or rust holding it in?
@@DariusBuildz I'm honestly not sure. The ball joint was the main component that needed to be replaced so i wonder if the damage might've had something to do with it. There was a little crud around the top of the ball joint but I didn't see any rust or anything when I finally got it out.
Thanks for the education brother man!
Hopefully it was helpful with you deciding whether its a project you want to tackle!
Thank you. Great video, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
that bolt you struggled is supposed to be tight 213-260 Nm (checking on the workshop manual) so it makes sense its so tight lol, I am pretty sure my control arms are creaking when turning on low speeds so I might need to change them
But even though at ~200 ft lbs my m18 should have broke that free no problem 😂. Definitely wasn’t tightened back down to 200 🤣.
@@DariusBuildz 220 Nm is around 160 ft lbs so yeah definitely 😂
Can you do a video on how you jack up this vehicle and the different places you would put a jack stand? Like if you were only doing 1 corner, etc
Yep! I can do that!
I had new control arms installed and less than 6 months later, the clunking sound returned when driving slow over rough roads. I’ve replaced all suspension parts at this point and one mechanic pointed out the ball joints of the “new” control arms have excessive play.
Has anyone replaced just the ball joints on their Mazda 6?
The ball joints have to be pressed out and pressed in and buy time you spend the time to source just the ball joints then spend the time to get the tools, or pay a shop to press the old ones out and the new ones in, you could have just replaced the entire LCA again.
What brand LCA's did you install out of curiosity?
ball joints: amzn.to/4cid5wX
Nice job! Thanks for making this video for us!
No problem! I hope it helps with the install!
Good job. Great video. I am sure many find it helpful, myself included.
Thank you 🙏🏿. Hopefully it will help many to come.
I think this might be my issue with 2015 Mazda 6. I hear a knocking noise, especially driving slow over bumps and divots I don't even see. But I lifted the car and shook the tires, even put a bar under the tire and lifted, but it felt solid. Could it be something else besides the LCA? Help plz
I would also check the sway bar end links. They have been known to wear and cause knocking noises.
Good lookin out for this video fam
No problem! Hopefully it helps!
I managed to cross threat the longest bolt. I damaged the threads on the screw and the insert in the frame. First time I have to give a car to the shops 💀
Oh no 🫣. Did you hand thread it in first or you just sent it to the moon?
No, that is very important. As soon as you hear that sound, it must be replaced. I just did mine and was amazed at how far gone it was.
The ball joints going bad seem to be a common issue.
@@DariusBuildz yeah, my ball joints and the control arm bushings were totally shot. When I replaced them, the ball joint fell apart
Sorry if I missed in the video, what brand LCA did you go with and how have they held up? I’d prefer to go with OEM but they cost literally 3 times as much as the mid level Delphi or Moog lower control arm
TRQ. I’m at 226k and they are still holding up well. I think I replaced them at 160k.
What do you recommend to remove stuck bolt on passenger rear lca bolt?
Some penetration fluid l, maybe some heat and a big impact.
Awesome tutorial! Any tips on getting the lower ball joint spindle into the knuckle? It won't go in no matter how much I hammer it
Take a screw driver and try to widen the gap a bit. Also, clean the inside of the spindle to make sure any rust and or dirt/grease is not there. It’s a tight tolerance and any little thing can make it hard to get the ball joint in there. Also make sure that you didn’t mushroom the spindle or the ball joint trying to force it in. Might have to dremel or smooth down the edges if you did.
@@DariusBuildz Bro thanks for replying. Just got it in after cleaning and prying.
Do all 2015 Mazda 6 have height sensors? My parts are TRQ as well and I would like to know before I attempt it
No. those are for my aftermarket airlift 3h kit. Your mazda 6 will not have those as it does not have air suspension.
@@DariusBuildz Awesome thank you, your video is very helpful
9:39 what kind of river did you use? It looks like it has a threaded slot for the mounting bolt?
It's a rivnut. They come in handy for all sorts of things that you need to be threaded.
amzn.to/4cgWgCl
After replacing one, the steering wheel was crooked and weird noises came out at times. An alignment should fix these issues.
That’s common after doing suspension work. An alignment will fix that right up and get it back within factory specifications!
Dealership quoted me $867 for this job.
The only thing that has been replaced is the serpentine belt and hydraulic tensioner both of which I wouldn't want to attempt because you need a 50mm specialty socket
and after 20,000 more miles the tensioner is starting to leak again so idk everything else is great and can be worked on
You don’t need a specialty socket to replace the tensioner and belts. I have a video on how to replace it. And I mostly do my work bc of shop fees. All I need is a tire mount and balance machine and a alignment machine and I’ll open up a shop, lol. And a lift!
@@DariusBuildz all data listed a 50mm that's odd, but ethier way I'm just happy to save money on this job. And I'm excited to install ruthenium spark plugs in a high compression engine, she already kicks like a mule.
@@AiShadowyGuy maybe that's for the crank pulley but it's no reason to remove that. My video is here. ruclips.net/video/P3uk5PwYZxI/видео.html
I appreciate you for this video 👍🏾
Thank you for taking the time to watch it 🫱🏾🫲🏼
Any tips for moving the wheel hub assembly out of the way? I’ve tried moving the steering wheel to all positions, left, right and dead center and I still can’t seem to have enough room to slide in the control arm. Any tips appreciated!! Thanks Darius!! 🙏🏼
If you take the strut loose, you risk the axle coming out of the trans. What space issues are you having exactly?
@@DariusBuildz That is a very good point my friend as I ALMOST made that mistake! The control WILL come out as the rear bushing has a little flex too it and will allow you to drop and wiggle it out of the way.
What rivets and took do you recommend for the high sensor to use? I have to replace one LCA because of a bad ball joint as well but unsure about that height sensor and how to move it over. Appreciate all the help!!!!
I really like the rivnuts personally. I use M5 aluminum and I've had good luck! I put blue loctite on the bolts so they don't back out due to the vibrations.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
You are welcome!!
Great video. Do you have to replace the height sensor when you replace each LCA?
I used the same airlift height sensor. I just had to add my rivnut so I could add my lower mount.
Question my friend, I have to replace the control arm, do that part came with with the bolt joint along with the bushing?
The replacement control arm is an exact replacement of the oem control arm. You will reuse the hardware to mount it.
Does the pinch bolt only hold the ball joint by the grove or does it need to be exactly tightened to actually compress the knuckle, cause i ended up striping one bolt when trying to torque so now i tightened the new one to hand tight basically.
Both. If it’s finger tight and it backs out from vibration, then your ball joint will come loose from the knuckle.
So it looks like the rotor, caliper, and cv axle can stay where it is....good to know. I feel like on some of these you've gotta remove damn near everything.
Yeah, like on my 4wd Yukon…
Good Job Darius Great Video
Thank you 👍🏾
Hi, I want to replace my mazda 3 control arm, what type of impact wrench are you using I want to buy one but don't know how much power I need?
Thanks
I have a Milwaukee M18 mid torque. It has 600 ft lb tq. That’s overkill for these cars, but I have it to work on my Yukon where some stuff is torqued to 350ft lbs, then add rust. The driver side bolt is at a bad location, angled and using extensions, it’s loosing a bunch of torque in the process.
Awesome video bro
I hope it helps you if you need it!
Currently working on a '14 3 and that driver's side bolt is tight as heck on mine too. Why?!!?!?!?
I am not sure but everyone that I’ve talked too, that bolt is always the tightest! Use the jack handle for leverage!
Can you replace the front control bushings on a 2016 Mazda 6 without replacing the entire control arm? The dealership is crazy by me they want around $1,100+ to replace the front control arms cause my bushings have dry rot around them with some cracks/breaks in the rubber.
You can but the bushings will need to be pressed out. Since you have to remove the LCA anyway, you might as well replace the entire LCA as the ball joint is probably bad anyway. So you solve two issues at one time and it’s quicker to just replace the entire LCA as well.
My friend and I just replaced the lower ball joints without having to remove the entire LCA. Yes, you will definitely need a ball joint press kit to get it done. It wasn't too bad a job, but did take a fair amount of whacking to get the ball joint to finally drop. Very thankful for Darius' videos!! I've used at least 2 of them now on my '15 Mazda 6 (96K). I love this car, but wish the front doors had stock sound mats in them; the front doors sound so "hollow and drummy" when closing. I used some HushMat pads on the inside of the driver door while I was fixing my door speaker. Sounds better when closing now, but haven't done the same to the passenger door... someday. Thanks again, Darius, for the awesome videos!
Bro 🙌 life saver
Aye man, I’m glad it help! Don’t forget to sub to the channel if you havnt already!
Hello, is TRQ a good brand? I'm about to buy the suspension kit, but not sure if those parts are reliable. Thanks!
I was at 167k and now i'm at 213k and they are still holding up great! The boots are still holding no rips, and the bushings are holding up, so I would say they are good!
@@DariusBuildz You're awesome! Thank you very much!!
Nice video! Can i ask you what you install ( drilling and all ) on the control arm?
Thanks! The bracket I added was for the front height sensor for my airlift air ride.
@@DariusBuildz What brand of control arm you got? And are they hold up after that time?
they are TRQ. That was at 167k and Im at 236k and they are holding up fine still!
Great job!
Thanks Pops!
I assume the torque specs on these are 2-4 dakdaks?
I left the mazda specs on another comment that someone asked, but the rear bolt prob needs to be 4-6 ugga duggas and the front 2-4 should be sufficient
Great video bro. Thanks
Thank you. I hope it helps!
I've always like this model of Mazda, how good would you say they are in terms or reliability (mostly engine and tranny).
👋🏽. I have 200,500 miles on my car, so I would say with basic maintenance, it’s a pretty reliable car.
Hopefully someone answers does which side the wheel is on changes the lower control arms
Yes. They are side specific. You cant install them on the wrong side.
@@DariusBuildz okay does it changes if my car is right hand drive? Or that has nothing to do with my lower control arms ?
I dont think yours being right hand drive would matter with the control arms,
did you have to add grease to the ball joint?
No. These were sealed units. They didn’t have the grease fitting.
I went for an alignment today. The mechanic refused to do it because the arm control has 2 extra inches than the original one. What do you think?😮
That doesn’t make any sense. How would the LCA be two inches longer than the original one?
@@DariusBuildz Since my comment, he told me that the new arm is for race cars.
@@DariusBuildz I’m seeing a different mechanic in a few hours.
did you get it figured out, and where did you source the extended LCA's?
@@DariusBuildz My friend ordered it from Turkey! 😮 I went to a mechanic who installed the standard ones.
Hi Darius! Thank you so much for this helpful and informative video!! Is that height sensor stock on all Mazda 6's of this generation? I'm about to tackle this project myself, but I don't think my Mazda has that height sensor.. I'm not very mechanically inclined, so it's very possible mine has it and I just don't know about it hahah
The height sensor is aftermarket for my Airlift 3H suspension that I have on my car, so that will not be something that you will need to worry about. Sorry about not making that clear in the video.
@@DariusBuildz No worries at all! Thank you for clarifying! I'm grateful for your thorough explanation because it gave me the confidence to try and tackle this myself! I'll let you know how it goes!
Do you have your jack stands just sitting on the four jack points of the car? I’m nervous about those thin pieces of metal supporting the car on the jack stand 😅 I’ve always used my lower control arm for the jack, but I can’t on this job 💁🏻♂️ hahah
How do you recommend I jack up the car for this job?
Awesome video! Can you provide the amazon link or name/brand of the extendable bar you used to finally loosen the driver side bolt?
The bar was the handle off of my harbor freight jack. It just so happens to fit on top of my ratchet . They do make breaker bars for the purpose I just didn’t have one long enough.
. amzn.to/40bXwSP
@@DariusBuildz that’s crazy how it worked out! Also, were all 4 tires removed just for the front control arms?
No. I was doing other work on the car at the time. During that video my car was apart waiting on a part that took almost 2 months to get here
Question.
Is it posible to replace only ball joint? Tnx
p.s. big like for video :)
You will have to have a press to press it out. Then you have to actually find a ball joint, then press it back in. But you will have to remove the LCA from the car to do that anyway
How is the trq control arm holding up im worndering if to get that or oem ?
I’m over 51,000 miles on them and they are holding up good! Front and rear bushing are good and ball joints are still good! Definitely a good alternative to oem so far
@@DariusBuildz ok nice because my ball joints are shot n I live in the Caribbean we have alot of pot holes so I want something sturdy
Darius,how many miles do you have on your 6? seems like youve been through alot.
167k. Its been lowered and bagged since 80k which is where majority of the wear and tear has came from. But other than these maintenance items, the car has been trouble free. Waiting on back ordered parts is what’s slowing me down currently.
How long did the TRQ control arms last? I have tried mavotech Supreme, direct import from O'Reilly's neither one of those lasted 10,000 miles before the ball joint went bad.
I’m 30k miles and still feels good.
@@DariusBuildz are they still good ?
Anyone notice the back jack stand only sitting on two legs?
14 out of 16 is winning odds 🤷🏾♂️ 😂 Passed the shake test. Clearly didn’t go anywhere 😆
@@DariusBuildz We'll be doing this same job when parts arrive so we'll try the 14/16 method.
Any idea on torque for these bolts? Thanks
Left Frame Bolt: 175 ft-lbs
Right Frame Bolt: 120 ft-lbs
Lower Ball Joint: 30 ft-lbs
👍🏾
Did you need an alignment after this?
Yes. An alignment should be checked and performed after any suspension work to make sure that the camber and toe is in specification to reduce potential abnormal tire wear
There is no adjustable camber or caster on these vehicles only toe
I don't know how in the hell you got those ball joints to come out so easy. I had to go get a ball joint separator tool from harbor freight, and still had to put a small socket on top of the ball joint and get the tool on that in order to push that thing out. Hammer didn't do jack shit but make a lot noise.
It’s a southern car, so no salt on the roads in the winter, so everything typically comes apart decently 😂
@@DariusBuildz ah, that makes sense, thanks for the reply! Just finished the passenger side this morning. I started out on Saturday (2 days ago) not knowing how to use a floor jack. To having one side done finally. I'll tackle the driver side this coming weekend.
anyone has the torque specs for the bolts?
The left side control arm frame fastener gets tightened down to 175 ft-lbs. The right side fasteners can both be tightened down to 120 ft-lbs. With the frame fasteners installed and tightened you can push the ball joint into the steering knuckle and tighten down the pinch bolt to 30 ft-lbs.
Darius do you still have your old lca's? If so I'd like to buy them from you.
Sadly I don’t. I gave them to my good Buddy IG@Lop51ed for his business, Manifest Garage. He is planned to be offering Extended LCA’s for the 3rd Gen 6 sometime in the future.
I just replace the right and left lower control arm with ball joint each one cost me $360 Canadian.
Where those OEM LCA’s at that price?
How do u have no rust under it?
We don’t get snow like that in the south, so no salt brine mixes to destroy our cars.
@@DariusBuildz that's crazy
no realignement needed?
I would recommend getting the alignment checked after doing any suspension work.
Hi, anybody knows the torque specs?
The answer is is another comment that someone asked
That ain't no help when u have more than 200 other comments, but I've changed them today already, good video, easy job@@DariusBuildz
Oh dam my bad. I didn’t realize the video had that many comments 😆
I’m glad you got them replaced successfully!
Yo boss what type of rivet gun do I need?
Depends on what you are using it for, but this is what I use with aluminum nutserts: amzn.to/3L48pR2
@@DariusBuildz awesome, do you remember how big of a hole you drilled into the new arms? Just wanna make sure I don’t fuck anything up cause it’s my daily
Surprised mine failed the MOT on lower arms yeterday at 48000 miles
Really? And you have a 6? I know the CX5’s destroy them
@@DariusBuildz yes, a 2017 6 tourer that I have had from new. They said that the bushes were shot. The dealership wanted £580 for two new arms
@@stuwhite2337 dang. That price isn’t bad. Mazda USA quoted me $1200 for two and instal
@@DariusBuildz the price was just to buy them. Got some aftermarket ones coming Monday for £150 a pair
@@stuwhite2337 oh wow. I never priced the oem lca bc I figured they were ridiculously expensive