@@delennsheppard1870 I will be build it eventually. The Electrics are no good. I made a few mistakes there. And use bigger, stronger locks. And I installed gas struts which I didn’t film.
Not really. I suck at welding so it’s be wrong of me to give you advise 😂. But just practice. It is a lot easier though but more effort to sail it in right.
The only change I would make it have it swing in the opposite direction for the slope of the road in N America. Opening on the side of the highway you want gravity on your side.
Don’t forget you are going to get vibration especially if you ever get into corrugations. It does look really rigid. Keep a close eye on your welds for a while. Have you thought about repositioning your rego plate. Looks like it will at least be partially obscured. I mounted my wheel carrier and stood back admiring my handy work and had a big laugh at myself. I could only see the numbers. I just mounted it directly on the plain side of the tail gate as I have nothing on the other side. I had to also add a new light. Looks a tiny bit odd with the old plate location being vacant but not much :)
Thanks mate. Refinery going to re mount the number plate on the fuel carrier. I want it high up so I don’t loose it in a rut. Looks it’s my first time welding thick steel, and most connections are welded both sides. I left the important welds as is. and I’ve got all new lights coming soon!
@@favouritejay I was thinking about your recovery points. They would be fine for towing but be extremely careful with your snatch strap. I did a 4wd course a few years ago and they really drummed into us how dangerous they can be. Always use the minimum amount of hardware possible. When I use a snatch strap on the back I take the tow bar off and put the strap loop into the square hole and put the pin through the loop. Snatch straps are stretchy and as you drive away the forces generated are huge. If something gives it’s like a cannon ball in a sling shot. If the vehicle you are helping out has shitty tow points you will wear the cannon ball. Another thing you may find handy is some way to lock your wheel carrier or fuel carrier open. If you are parked on a bit of a slope it can be a pain in the arse when you can’t keep them open. Looking forward to the next episode:)
@@DavoShed I agree. I honestly think I won’t be using the recovery points, I just like the look. I am keeping the tow pack on. I would love to get an engineers thought on them. I’d even change them to high carbon steel at one stage to assist in strength. Maybe envelope weld them on too.
@@stevefairley2535 yeh i wonder if its a patent that brings a high price, and with airbags you have to have an airbag compliant roobar etc so they overprice them too i bought a second hand bullbar dirt cheap saved thousands , wasnt easy to find one took ages .
@ do you know what the adr rules are???? I'd like to know how hard it is to fab a front bar. I had a custom made front on my 2004 discovery, I don't think it was engineered. my rear was a modified front bar 🤣 without hoops
@@stevefairley2535 my mate owns and runs a professional roo bar / bullbar manufacturing and install company , theres a reason air bag compliance bars cost so much , however its piss easy to build bars its one of the simpler trades around very simple
Heck ya!!! Heck of a job right there you just motivated me to do this on my K5 thanks man
Hell yeah bro. Get after it!
Good job dude lovely from Tanzania 🇹🇿
Thank you mate.
Great build, enjoyed it all.
Looking good mate! Cant wait to see it done!!
Thanks you. Me too!!!
short and sweet
Great build. Gave me a few idea's. What the thinkness of the blue metal peice?
Hi mate, the main part of the bull bar is 5 mm, and the tire swing and fuel swing arms 3 mm
Awesome work. How you going with welding, gas or no gas with this work?
I changed to gas for this project. It’s a lot nicer to weld. But gasless would work fine.
Hey awesome work! What's the dimensions of the RHS you used for the swing aways? 3mm thick by??
Hey mate. Thanks so much. From memory, 100x50 for the swing arm. Yes 3mm thick.
@@favouritejay thanks! Anything you would change on the design if you were to do it again or give others advice?
@@delennsheppard1870 I will be build it eventually. The Electrics are no good. I made a few mistakes there. And use bigger, stronger locks. And I installed gas struts which I didn’t film.
Very cool, how heavy is just the carrier?
No idea mate. The tyre carrier was probably 10-15kg I’d say
Any tips regarding moving from MIG gasless to gas?
I currently weld gasless, but I’m playing with the idea of hiring a bottle..
Not really. I suck at welding so it’s be wrong of me to give you advise 😂. But just practice. It is a lot easier though but more effort to sail it in right.
The only change I would make it have it swing in the opposite direction for the slope of the road in N America. Opening on the side of the highway you want gravity on your side.
Good call dude. People have it both ways in AUS.
Don’t forget you are going to get vibration especially if you ever get into corrugations. It does look really rigid. Keep a close eye on your welds for a while.
Have you thought about repositioning your rego plate. Looks like it will at least be partially obscured.
I mounted my wheel carrier and stood back admiring my handy work and had a big laugh at myself.
I could only see the numbers. I just mounted it directly on the plain side of the tail gate as I have nothing on the other side.
I had to also add a new light. Looks a tiny bit odd with the old plate location being vacant but not much :)
Thanks mate. Refinery going to re mount the number plate on the fuel carrier. I want it high up so I don’t loose it in a rut.
Looks it’s my first time welding thick steel, and most connections are welded both sides. I left the important welds as is. and I’ve got all new lights coming soon!
@@favouritejay
I was thinking about your recovery points. They would be fine for towing but be extremely careful with your snatch strap.
I did a 4wd course a few years ago and they really drummed into us how dangerous they can be. Always use the minimum amount of hardware possible.
When I use a snatch strap on the back I take the tow bar off and put the strap loop into the square hole and put the pin through the loop.
Snatch straps are stretchy and as you drive away the forces generated are huge. If something gives it’s like a cannon ball in a sling shot.
If the vehicle you are helping out has shitty tow points you will wear the cannon ball.
Another thing you may find handy is some way to lock your wheel carrier or fuel carrier open. If you are parked on a bit of a slope it can be a pain in the arse when you can’t keep them open.
Looking forward to the next episode:)
@@DavoShed I agree. I honestly think I won’t be using the recovery points, I just like the look. I am keeping the tow pack on. I would love to get an engineers thought on them. I’d even change them to high carbon steel at one stage to assist in strength. Maybe envelope weld them on too.
Where do you get the bearing housings??
Just eBay mate.
What a the bearings called please
Hi mate. I’ve just updated the description. Check the link in the description 👍
عمل جيد
better than waisting 1500 on a bought one
Preach! Cost me under $300. Can’t complain
I am here because the cruiser company wants 3k+ for a 2012 prado rear bar.
@@stevefairley2535 yeh i wonder if its a patent that brings a high price, and with airbags you have to have an airbag compliant roobar etc so they overprice them too i bought a second hand bullbar dirt cheap saved thousands , wasnt easy to find one took ages .
@ do you know what the adr rules are???? I'd like to know how hard it is to fab a front bar. I had a custom made front on my 2004 discovery, I don't think it was engineered. my rear was a modified front bar 🤣 without hoops
@@stevefairley2535 my mate owns and runs a professional roo bar / bullbar manufacturing and install company , theres a reason air bag compliance bars cost so much , however its piss easy to build bars its one of the simpler trades around very simple
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