Thanks for the information. I made a special tool to help remove the heads without needing screwdrivers and pry bars. I cut off thectops of 2 spark plugs, tool some 1 in. Square tubing and cut 2 pieces about 3 inches long. I drilled a hole through the tubing on one end, welded the plugs to the tubing and put a bolt through the holes i drilled on the other end of the tubing. I could then remove the plugs on the end of the head, say 1 and 4, screw kn the tools and you have 2 nice handles to workthe head off without damaging the block or head.
I really love this idea, I do something similar on model a motors but use an engine hoist to pull on the head with fake plugs, I think I might make the same tool you explained for the v8s now thank you
H&H Shipping me my 21 bolt centre spigot Sharp aluminium heads tomorrow - 'woot woot', gonna be some fun comin' my way - perfect timing producing this video thank!! Still gonna ship that tranny out to you early July!
Thanks - didn't know about running it dry on 1st fireup. The torque sequence is simple though you don't need stickers - its just circular from the centre with opposite corners
I get a back ache just viewing your access down in the engine bay. Considered new finned heads (Wilson & woods?) on my F1 truck but would need to pull the engine and do the work on my engine stand.
I got a back ache doing it haha that’s for sure. We did heads as a last second thing right before the build was to be finished and right after I put everything together, otherwise I would’ve removed the engine too
I always vacuum and change oil and has always done me well, I worked at a Ford dealership for a long time and have seen rags ruin so many motors and transmissions I never use them to cover anything
I am installing a pair of Aluminum heads on my Flathead Cadillac. Your video answers many questions. Can you tell me the thickness of the head bolt washers? Copper spray vs. high heat aluminum spray. Put the gasket on when tacky or dry? Does painting between the fins affect cooling? Thanks, Rich
Put head on while spray is tacky, I use copper on copper gaskets and use a sacrificial anode in the radiator. That’s my preferred way but there are other ways that work as well. Paint can reduce cooling but we are talking a very minuscule amount.
Thank you a lot of good information. I like the process. You want to do it right the first time. I have a question what oil would you recommend for the R10E-1A WG.DIV overdrive, and do use the same oil for the transmission. Thank you I appreciate your feedback and your videos
I'm probably going to end up picking up a 1946 super deluxe. What is the benefit of having the Edelbrock aluminum heads other than weight reduction? How much power are you really picking up? I do like that slingshot intake as well. How much power overall? Is it noticeable?
Did you end up buying headsets yet? I see that this is an old comment. HUGE difference! It raises the compression which is the best thing you can do to a Flathead. Lower the CC the better so be careful when purchasing heads, some are made with higher CC to allow you to run a bigger cam with higher lifts. You can definitely feel the difference in the seat and gas pedal so heads and intake on a stock motor goes a long ways. It’s been dyno proven that high rise intakes are the best for a Flathead motor because how the runners for the intake air is shaped in the block. I can’t say which high rise is the best because common plenum depends on your carb set up
So when you are torquing the heads how do you know if the nut is moving or the stud in the block? Does the torque change with the type of head gasket you use?
If you install the stud tight it won’t move because the shoulder of the non-threaded portion is up against the block face. 100 percent of the time when I am torquing the head and the stud spins it’s because there is a crack in the block or the threads in the block is bad. Which is always a bad situation
What an absolutely fantastic video! Well laid out, clear and concise! Thank you!
Great idea on taping the torque sequence.
Thank you! I’m just afraid of messing it up! Haha
Very through! And ez to comprehend! What no curse words removing heads! Lol!
Haha there might’ve been a couple in my head
It was 3am and RUclips Algorithm sent me this. Don't know what's going on in the video, but I'm not complaining. Pretty relaxing to watch
Right on, thanks for watching
Thanks Zac you do a fine job explaining every step very well. I really appreciate all these videos on these early Fords!
Thanks Wayne I appreciate it!
Thanks for the information. I made a special tool to help remove the heads without needing screwdrivers and pry bars. I cut off thectops of 2 spark plugs, tool some 1 in. Square tubing and cut 2 pieces about 3 inches long. I drilled a hole through the tubing on one end, welded the plugs to the tubing and put a bolt through the holes i drilled on the other end of the tubing. I could then remove the plugs on the end of the head, say 1 and 4, screw kn the tools and you have 2 nice handles to workthe head off without damaging the block or head.
I really love this idea, I do something similar on model a motors but use an engine hoist to pull on the head with fake plugs, I think I might make the same tool you explained for the v8s now thank you
Very detailed step by step with insight! And slow enough to comprehend!
Thank you!
What a great video tons of helpful hints I love in air powered gasket scraper used carefully it will removing gasket like nobody's business
It sure will! Thank you for watching
The best way to get the head off is to loosen all headbolts a couple of tufns & just start it up. Works every time
What do you do for motors that don’t run or are stuck?
H&H Shipping me my 21 bolt centre spigot Sharp aluminium heads tomorrow - 'woot woot', gonna be some fun comin' my way - perfect timing producing this video thank!! Still gonna ship that tranny out to you early July!
Nice! Good timing haha, that’ll really give that Flathead some power
Extremely well done video sir!
Thank you I appreciate it!
Thanks - didn't know about running it dry on 1st fireup. The torque sequence is simple though you don't need stickers - its just circular from the centre with opposite corners
Thanks Stevan, I’m just a perfectionist, everything I do is customer cars so I try to do them all to the upmost professionalism as possible
I get a back ache just viewing your access down in the engine bay. Considered new finned heads (Wilson & woods?) on my F1 truck but would need to pull the engine and do the work on my engine stand.
I got a back ache doing it haha that’s for sure. We did heads as a last second thing right before the build was to be finished and right after I put everything together, otherwise I would’ve removed the engine too
Cool stuff bro
Thanks!
Thanks for the info 👍
Thanks for watching
I broke a head bolt changing a head on Edna back in December. Ended up being a nightmare to get it out. But in the end everything worked out
That’s good! It’s always a big headache drilling and tapping a stud out, hopefully you got it out by welding a nut on
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop unfortunately I had to drill
Nice job, thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching!
You should put a rag in the cylinder while cleaning the deck of the block to prevent much of the debris from falling in.
I always vacuum and change oil and has always done me well, I worked at a Ford dealership for a long time and have seen rags ruin so many motors and transmissions I never use them to cover anything
I am installing a pair of Aluminum heads on my Flathead Cadillac. Your video answers many questions. Can you tell me the thickness of the head bolt washers? Copper spray vs. high heat aluminum spray. Put the gasket on when tacky or dry? Does painting between the fins affect cooling? Thanks, Rich
Put head on while spray is tacky, I use copper on copper gaskets and use a sacrificial anode in the radiator. That’s my preferred way but there are other ways that work as well. Paint can reduce cooling but we are talking a very minuscule amount.
Thank you a lot of good information. I like the process. You want to do it right the first time. I have a question what oil would you recommend for the R10E-1A WG.DIV overdrive, and do use the same oil for the transmission. Thank you I appreciate your feedback and your videos
I'm probably going to end up picking up a 1946 super deluxe. What is the benefit of having the Edelbrock aluminum heads other than weight reduction? How much power are you really picking up? I do like that slingshot intake as well. How much power overall? Is it noticeable?
Did you end up buying headsets yet? I see that this is an old comment. HUGE difference! It raises the compression which is the best thing you can do to a Flathead. Lower the CC the better so be careful when purchasing heads, some are made with higher CC to allow you to run a bigger cam with higher lifts. You can definitely feel the difference in the seat and gas pedal so heads and intake on a stock motor goes a long ways. It’s been dyno proven that high rise intakes are the best for a Flathead motor because how the runners for the intake air is shaped in the block. I can’t say which high rise is the best because common plenum depends on your carb set up
What heads would you recommend, To replace my 8CM heads. Because my driver side head might have a small crack. Thank you
There are a lot of options in the reproduction side, I would just suggest buying new over trying to find an original. What did you end up going with?
Didn't realize that swapping heads on a flathead is that much of a hassle.
Sure is!
How much HP did you get from changing the HEADS ??
Not sure I never run Flathead on a dyno. It’s enough to feel it in the gas pedal and the butt of your seat to say the least
So when you are torquing the heads how do you know if the nut is moving or the stud in the block? Does the torque change with the type of head gasket you use?
If you install the stud tight it won’t move because the shoulder of the non-threaded portion is up against the block face. 100 percent of the time when I am torquing the head and the stud spins it’s because there is a crack in the block or the threads in the block is bad. Which is always a bad situation
I use a copper head gasket for everything, then have a sacrificial anode in the radiator
Is the thread pitch on the studs the same on the 8BA flatheads?
In the block yes, on the nut side no
Are all the studs the same length?
Yes they are. If you need to run a side mount genny then you need to buy a couple extra long studs
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