It's just amazing to see just how much plastic and chemicals stuff is used on new build stuff, it's also stunning to see just how much stuff goes to landfill and how much new build seems to depend upon adhesives and fillers. New build also uses a lot of K-Rend to cover those surface area's and the plasterers who do that work tend not to wet things down which means potential problems in the long term future. Compraband is good, we used a lot when we built a wooden framed building with lime panels but it costs a small fortune to buy but is better than using a mastic which is good for about 5 years life. If you want an environmentally friendly home build it from cob, timber and strawbale plastered in lime putty mortars and plasters. The walls are about 3 feet thick and you can cover all that with lime mortar. Unlike cement, lime mortars and plasters absorb carbon dioxide and will also improve a rooms acoustics too, lime uses less energy to make it than cement and unlike cement and gypsum there is no shelf life so there is much less waste. Lastly the cob can be made from the subsoil which was dug out of the ground area. Cob buildings are cool in the summer and warmish in the winter.
Too kind Stephen, unfortunately there isn't much point because I'm crap in front of a camera, so I'll write stuff for nothing instead so others may benefit.
There is a great one on Grand Designs called 'The Woodmans Cottage' it's a cob house took a few years to build, well worth a search, and it's Kevin McClouds favourite house.
Spongeing the base coat is not needed ,if useing corner beads u don't need to use corner tool ,the second coat can be trowled smooth prime it run the finish
Never done it myself but I want to do a similar thing. I imagine that we would have to bed all of the insulation in the base coat and maybe put a few fixings in. I would be grateful if Krend would comment
hi, I'm putting k.rend on a bungalow I'm renovating.. I see the 20mm insolation. your put around the window reveal.. I was thinking of using the 20mm for the outside walls... would the be ok? as the 50mm would be a bit big as i would have to extend the roof ridges on the front of the bungalow. to accommodate for the 50mm the 20mm would be a perfect fit. thanks.
Hi.I ve just seen this massage. You can use 20mm insulation but it is more difficult to work with as easily get broken.The most important question is what do you want to use the insulation for? If you want to improve a thermal performance of your property then the u value that you ll achieve by using 20mm boards it will not be high and that mean no good insulation. With 50mm il will be better but still not the required one. With the 50mm boards and thicker you can use flashing trims that you can fix them under the fascia or existing roof.This is a cheaper way and you do not have to extend the roof.
the small amount of insulation would minimise condensation and allow a re-render without having to hack off the orignal. I am not really interested in improving the U Value of the walls. I also hate the use of trims and flashings on older properties as I want to preserve the style and not change it into a modern lego monstrosity. It can look good if it on properties built after the second world war, however I would never install it without extending the roof eaves.
My understanding is this type of insulation can reduce fuel bills by 30%? 30% of my annual fuel bill is £300 or thereabouts. A big saving indeed, but from what I can find out the cost of exterior wall insulation for a regular size house starts at around £10K and, obviously, as the homeowner won't see any real time savings until the full cost of this has been offset by the savings they make we are looking at 30 odd years before it has paid for itself and the savings then become "money in pocket" savings.....! Is my £10K figure grossly exaggerated, is it less than this or is it more than this? K Rend don't seem to reply to anyone on here!
I think 7-10k sounds about right for an average 3 bedroom house. I have pebble dashing and they would probably get rid of that first so it would be more on the 10k mark for me. That's why I'm putting it off.
my house have no insulations just a 4 inch concrete wall a roof and ceiling and its very hot 30-35c i believe this is really worth it than trying to cool a hot wall with air conditioner
Why do all these demonstrators use brand new tools,are they making that much money they just throw their tools away at the end of the job,by the way,nice job
I'm guessing you mean that the application is not locked into a fixed price. It has been years, but in the past I installed Dryvit here in the States. We didn't go through anywhere near the steps. Much thinner insulation and no beads. Yeah, it had somewhat of a marshmallow look.
theres no way you wouldnt coat out the bottom section when you are doing the top and then cover it over. always a bit dodgy when you see a 'plasterer' with new tools. This guy is working in clean optimal conditions with straight walls and level floors, its just not real.
@@deanadams475 why would you do the plinth seperate to main job , finish main job then do the plinth another week waiting for plynth to dry? Before you can top coat it . +what a ball ache when the main is finished trying not to shit it up while doing the plynth. With a brand new trowel
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It's just amazing to see just how much plastic and chemicals stuff is used on new build stuff, it's also stunning to see just how much stuff goes to landfill and how much new build seems to depend upon adhesives and fillers. New build also uses a lot of K-Rend to cover those surface area's and the plasterers who do that work tend not to wet things down which means potential problems in the long term future. Compraband is good, we used a lot when we built a wooden framed building with lime panels but it costs a small fortune to buy but is better than using a mastic which is good for about 5 years life.
If you want an environmentally friendly home build it from cob, timber and strawbale plastered in lime putty mortars and plasters. The walls are about 3 feet thick and you can cover all that with lime mortar. Unlike cement, lime mortars and plasters absorb carbon dioxide and will also improve a rooms acoustics too, lime uses less energy to make it than cement and unlike cement and gypsum there is no shelf life so there is much less waste. Lastly the cob can be made from the subsoil which was dug out of the ground area. Cob buildings are cool in the summer and warmish in the winter.
Need to make a video of what you say
Too kind Stephen, unfortunately there isn't much point because I'm crap in front of a camera, so I'll write stuff for nothing instead so others may benefit.
There is a great one on Grand Designs called 'The Woodmans Cottage' it's a cob house took a few years to build, well worth a search, and it's Kevin McClouds favourite house.
God forbid if you should ever need to replace your existing windows.
Spongeing the base coat is not needed ,if useing corner beads u don't need to use corner tool ,the second coat can be trowled smooth prime it run the finish
Bridged damp course?
So you don't have to put render adhesive on the foam first
Thank you for messaging us.
For sales, samples or technical inquiries please email sales@k-rend.co.uk
Thank you, chat soon!
Team K Rend
Never done it myself but I want to do a similar thing. I imagine that we would have to bed all of the insulation in the base coat and maybe put a few fixings in. I would be grateful if Krend would comment
I hope you got over not being gratefull
@@mikevlek totally 💯
hi, I'm putting k.rend on a bungalow I'm renovating.. I see the 20mm insolation. your put around the window reveal.. I was thinking of using the 20mm for the outside walls... would the be ok? as the 50mm would be a bit big as i would have to extend the roof ridges on the front of the bungalow. to accommodate for the 50mm the 20mm would be a perfect fit. thanks.
Hi.I ve just seen this massage.
You can use 20mm insulation but it is more difficult to work with as easily get broken.The most important question is what do you want to use the insulation for?
If you want to improve a thermal performance of your property then the u value that you ll achieve by using 20mm boards it will not be high and that mean no good insulation. With 50mm il will be better but still not the required one.
With the 50mm boards and thicker you can use flashing trims that you can fix them under the fascia or existing roof.This is a cheaper way and you do not have to extend the roof.
the small amount of insulation would minimise condensation and allow a re-render without having to hack off the orignal. I am not really interested in improving the U Value of the walls. I also hate the use of trims and flashings on older properties as I want to preserve the style and not change it into a modern lego monstrosity. It can look good if it on properties built after the second world war, however I would never install it without extending the roof eaves.
My understanding is this type of insulation can reduce fuel bills by 30%?
30% of my annual fuel bill is £300 or thereabouts.
A big saving indeed, but from what I can find out the cost of exterior wall insulation for a regular size house starts at around £10K and, obviously, as the homeowner won't see any real time savings until the full cost of this has been offset by the savings they make we are looking at 30 odd years before it has paid for itself and the savings then become "money in pocket" savings.....!
Is my £10K figure grossly exaggerated, is it less than this or is it more than this?
K Rend don't seem to reply to anyone on here!
I think 7-10k sounds about right for an average 3 bedroom house. I have pebble dashing and they would probably get rid of that first so it would be more on the 10k mark for me. That's why I'm putting it off.
Yet it adds value to your house when you sell and it would possible look nicer.? 10k for this is miles off too lol
@@AK47_. if the original render is solid and sound then this can be applied over the top
@@marknicholls9887 thanks for the knowledge Mark
my house have no insulations just a 4 inch concrete wall a roof and ceiling and its very hot 30-35c i believe this is really worth it than trying to cool a hot wall with air conditioner
How fire-resistant is this? Polystyrene doesn't sound great.
Why do all these demonstrators use brand new tools,are they making that much money they just throw their tools away at the end of the job,by the way,nice job
Not on price obviously...
I'm guessing you mean that the application is not locked into a fixed price. It has been years, but in the past I installed Dryvit here in the States. We didn't go through anywhere near the steps. Much thinner insulation and no beads. Yeah, it had somewhat of a marshmallow look.
theres no way you wouldnt coat out the bottom section when you are doing the top and then cover it over. always a bit dodgy when you see a 'plasterer' with new tools. This guy is working in clean optimal conditions with straight walls and level floors, its just not real.
Omfg the cleanest tools and workers ! Get em on a price and see if they check levels! Laughable and bollocks IMO
Sloppy job!
In my personal opinion, this is improper job. I wouldn't let these workers to insulate my property.
No adhesive to the back of the boards. Also stress patches under and over the main mesh skin. I know it takes a bit longer but worth doing right
@@deanadams475 why would you do the plinth seperate to main job , finish main job then do the plinth another week waiting for plynth to dry? Before you can top coat it . +what a ball ache when the main is finished trying not to shit it up while doing the plynth. With a brand new trowel