Hey thanks man, I picked up the 2138 on my car. After watching your video, I went to connect and disconnect the sensor, engine light off... I'm about to order a sensor right now. Thanks again.
Great Video. Did mine today on a 2005 Acura TL with very little prior car repair experience. Able to smoothly take off from a stop now whereas before it would sort of jerk forward shortly after beginning to roll no matter how light my foot was. Didn't notice how bad it was until I replaced this part. Thanks for the great video! [Edit] For the benefit of future readers .. I was getting code P2138
Hey i need your help. My car went into limp mode and i turned if off and back on only to realize it was not on limp mode and only the engine light came on. So i went out and bought the app sensor cause autozone diagnosed it as the app sensor being failed. I went home and before i did anything, i took the plug out of the old sensor and plugged it into the new sensor i bought and it cleared the engine light. But once i installed it onto the bracket and mounted it back onto the car, the engine light came on. Is there anything you think i did wrong while installing the new app sensor? for instance i have a feeling the cable that wraps around the wheel of the sensor either has too much/too little tension. If you could reply i would be greatly appreciated!
So,when you got a P2138,you just replace the APPS,outright,without having to diagnose the actual component problems ? And it looks like you didn’t have to perform the relearn procedure,either. Assuming it’s not required. Thanks.
+Patrick Fennell that's awesome man I'm really glad it helped you. I appreciate you watching my video and I think I saw that you ordered the parts through my link thanks again👍
1. Take cover off first (10mm) 2. Remove 2 10mm bolts off bracket 3. Loosen 12mm nut on throttle cable 4. You can now remove app sensor 5. Take bracket off sensor and put on new sensor
Brandon Pierce thanks I did order the part bit the picture on the screen they showed me was for the sensor only not the whole part you replaced would I be ok to just replace the sensor ??
Cooking with silent Yesi yes that is the correct part there's a cover that goes over it. and a cable that attaches to it. but that is all you need for this repair.👍
Could be problem also occur when hard acceleration? Because during hard acceleration the car will struggle to pass 6k rpms a higher speeds and basically stuggles then check engine light starts flashing but turns off when I let go of the throttle but during regular acceleration the car drives normal and lets me go 100+ mph 2005 Acura TSX 110kmiles
Had this problem and verified it with an OBD2 BlueDriver scanner. APPS (Throttle positioning sensor). Rough idle and the car could barely accelerate, VSA light and Check engine light came on at the same time. I cleaned the APPS with electrical contact cleaner and could see there was a fair amount of black dust on the contacts.. Cleaned it, and the car runs great again. The incident scared the heck out of me because the car was running fine and all of a sudden it ran like crap. So trying cleaning the sensor first before replacing it.
@Zdriver1996 - Which electrical contact cleaner did you use? I was going to stop by Wal-Mart to pick up some WD Electrical contact cleaner, just temporarily until the new sensor comes in. I need my car running, its my daily and I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer. Please let me know! Thanks! - DM
@@derv8411 I used CRC QD electrical cleaner . It solved the problem and haven’t had the issue since. The sensor was noticeable dirty when I just wiped it with a white rag. After you clean it use electrical tape around the top part of the sensor where the plug inserts into the sensor to seal it up to prevent it from collecting dirt in the future. So unplug your sensor, wipe with with a rag to see... then follow up with some electrical cleaner.
@@ZDriver1996 thanks buddy, appreciate it. Mine didnt seem to be quite as dirty as yours, but I cleaned it anyhow. It was slightly dirty. I'm letting it dry now. How long did you let it sit to dry? It's been about 40 mins.
Hi Brandon, I just replaced the apps. It wasnt that bad. My only thing is, there seems to be a little play in the throttle cable. I marked it off before removing and its lined up now the way I have it connected. Is there supposed to be a little play in the cable or is it supposed to be really snug? If you could please help me out with this question kind sir....thanks in advance! 👍🏾 Here is a quick vid of the cable ruclips.net/video/CIIYc4H1rbc/видео.html
@@pmutah thanks Brandon! Do you mean the two bolts that connect to the bracket piece of the apps? Where you have to loosen one 12mm bolt to slide the cable out of the bracket...are these the two bolts you're talking about? Thanks again man!
@@pmutah ok so I adjusted the cable a good bit. It's more snug now. Still a little loose but better. Does that cable affect the position of the accelerator pedal at all? For some reason, the pedal seems to be closer to the footboard (or maybe it's just in my head). The idle is fine though. Normal.
@@derv8411 so the problem in the original video will throw multiple dash lights and the car will go into limp mode and won’t accelerate over 10mph. I’m not sure what issue your having.. but at idle the IAC should handle that. You should be able to turn you car on , and pull on the throttle cable to see if that’s your problem , if the slack is affecting it’s ability to rev properly. Your idle should be unaffected by a throttle cable problem .
@@ZDriver1996 yup, had all those symptoms and the p2138 code. Just ran into a little snag with the throttle body cable after swapping out the part and just wanted to make sure there wasn't supposed to be any slack to it. I adjusted it a good bit and it seems to be ok now. No more issues after changing the part, so good there. I don't know if its just me being paranoid, but the gas pedal inside the car seems to be closer to the floor board. I'm not sure if its because of when I adjusted the throttle cable or not, but its no biggie. I can adjust it and see perhaps. Important thing is, car is running good now after changing part. No limp or acceleration issues. :-) Thanks for all your help!
Thanks for the video. I just got a quote for about $600 to fix it so I am going to try my own. My only question is when I tried to buy the part from your link it said it would not fit on my 2007 Honda Accord. Do you know what the part would be or why I would get that message? Thanks again
The camera position is really bad for the first half of this video. I'm seeing your head and hands mostly, not where the sensor actually is. Not hating just feedback.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey thanks man, I picked up the 2138 on my car. After watching your video, I went to connect and disconnect the sensor, engine light off... I'm about to order a sensor right now. Thanks again.
Lalux Nine no problem bro thanks for watching my video.👍
Have 07 accord IS THIS THE SAME CODE AS P2138???
what was the ratchet tool called? Im trying to buy it but can't figure out the name
Great Video. Did mine today on a 2005 Acura TL with very little prior car repair experience. Able to smoothly take off from a stop now whereas before it would sort of jerk forward shortly after beginning to roll no matter how light my foot was. Didn't notice how bad it was until I replaced this part.
Thanks for the great video!
[Edit]
For the benefit of future readers .. I was getting code P2138
+Tim I I'm really glad this video is helpful to you. that's awesome thanks for watching it.👍
Nice clear video, install instructions and easy to read part number :).. saved me a bunch :) Thank you Brandon.
You are welcome thank you for watching😎👍
I just replace the apps on my Honda Accord 07, but the check engine still on,
How can I reset it?
Hey i need your help. My car went into limp mode and i turned if off and back on only to realize it was not on limp mode and only the engine light came on. So i went out and bought the app sensor cause autozone diagnosed it as the app sensor being failed. I went home and before i did anything, i took the plug out of the old sensor and plugged it into the new sensor i bought and it cleared the engine light. But once i installed it onto the bracket and mounted it back onto the car, the engine light came on. Is there anything you think i did wrong while installing the new app sensor? for instance i have a feeling the cable that wraps around the wheel of the sensor either has too much/too little tension. If you could reply i would be greatly appreciated!
So,when you got a P2138,you just replace the APPS,outright,without having to diagnose the actual component problems ? And it looks like you didn’t have to perform the relearn procedure,either. Assuming it’s not required. Thanks.
This was really awsome, seems like you often have some cool cars to work on
+FsAviX thanks bro. yeah whenever I can put up the video to help people I tried to.👍
Great video! Made the change today - saved me a couple hundred bucks.
+Patrick Fennell that's awesome man I'm really glad it helped you. I appreciate you watching my video and I think I saw that you ordered the parts through my link thanks again👍
1. Take cover off first (10mm)
2. Remove 2 10mm bolts off bracket
3. Loosen 12mm nut on throttle cable
4. You can now remove app sensor
5. Take bracket off sensor and put on new sensor
My idle is bouncing around after replacing the sensor , any suggestions on how I can fix it ?
Thanks for the video. I had this problem on my 2005 TSX. Watched the video, installed the part and all was well again.
+Dave Cappadonia that's awesome man. I'm really glad the video helped you. thanks for watching it I appreciate it.👍
Help..2007 acura tsx while driving vsa light comes on the next day car cranking but wouldnt start days later it starts...couple days it does it again
What are the symptoms of this apps when it goes out?
P2138 code. Hesitation/lag on pedal to acceleration
Hesitation. Early shifting. Strange and violent shifts. Limp home mode and accelerator surges
I have question would I need to reset the code or will it reset on its own when I drive it????
Cooking with silent I did use a scanner on mine to reset and configure it.
Brandon Pierce thanks I did order the part bit the picture on the screen they showed me was for the sensor only not the whole part you replaced would I be ok to just replace the sensor ??
Cooking with silent Yesi yes that is the correct part there's a cover that goes over it. and a cable that attaches to it. but that is all you need for this repair.👍
Thank you, Mr Pierce! It was kind of like watching Norm of This Old House. Fixed without a hitch.
Lol nice. I'm glad it helped you. Thanks for watching my video👍
Good video it showed me how exactly to take off mine on my 06 TL thanks
Could be problem also occur when hard acceleration? Because during hard acceleration the car will struggle to pass 6k rpms a higher speeds and basically stuggles then check engine light starts flashing but turns off when I let go of the throttle but during regular acceleration the car drives normal and lets me go 100+ mph
2005 Acura TSX 110kmiles
Had this problem and verified it with an OBD2 BlueDriver scanner. APPS (Throttle positioning sensor). Rough idle and the car could barely accelerate, VSA light and Check engine light came on at the same time. I cleaned the APPS with electrical contact cleaner and could see there was a fair amount of black dust on the contacts.. Cleaned it, and the car runs great again. The incident scared the heck out of me because the car was running fine and all of a sudden it ran like crap. So trying cleaning the sensor first before replacing it.
@Zdriver1996 - Which electrical contact cleaner did you use? I was going to stop by Wal-Mart to pick up some WD Electrical contact cleaner, just temporarily until the new sensor comes in. I need my car running, its my daily and I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer. Please let me know! Thanks! - DM
@@derv8411 I used CRC QD electrical cleaner . It solved the problem and haven’t had the issue since. The sensor was noticeable dirty when I just wiped it with a white rag. After you clean it use electrical tape around the top part of the sensor where the plug inserts into the sensor to seal it up to prevent it from collecting dirt in the future. So unplug your sensor, wipe with with a rag to see... then follow up with some electrical cleaner.
@@ZDriver1996 thanks buddy, appreciate it. Mine didnt seem to be quite as dirty as yours, but I cleaned it anyhow. It was slightly dirty. I'm letting it dry now. How long did you let it sit to dry? It's been about 40 mins.
@@derv8411 electrical cleaner dries extremely fast .. seconds . I let it dry maybe 5 minutes to be safe
@@derv8411 how did it turn out ?
Would a bad app sensor put your car in limp mode ?
Yes
Thanks for the informative write up. It took me about 20 minutes...Super simple
You're welcome man thanks for watching my video😎👍
Piece of cake. I was hoping to just replace the electronic part and calibrate it, but it's much easier to replace the whole thing.
Nice! Great job. Appreciate the video!
Thanks man I appreciate you watching
@@pmutah I am a subscriber now, so one of these days, I'll make my way through all your videos! Keep it up!
Hi Brandon, I just replaced the apps. It wasnt that bad. My only thing is, there seems to be a little play in the throttle cable. I marked it off before removing and its lined up now the way I have it connected. Is there supposed to be a little play in the cable or is it supposed to be really snug? If you could please help me out with this question kind sir....thanks in advance! 👍🏾
Here is a quick vid of the cable
ruclips.net/video/CIIYc4H1rbc/видео.html
So at the end of the cable where it connects to the apps it has adjustment loosen the two nuts and adjust the cable and I think you'll be good to go
@@pmutah thanks Brandon! Do you mean the two bolts that connect to the bracket piece of the apps? Where you have to loosen one 12mm bolt to slide the cable out of the bracket...are these the two bolts you're talking about? Thanks again man!
@@pmutah ok so I adjusted the cable a good bit. It's more snug now. Still a little loose but better. Does that cable affect the position of the accelerator pedal at all? For some reason, the pedal seems to be closer to the footboard (or maybe it's just in my head). The idle is fine though. Normal.
@@derv8411 so the problem in the original video will throw multiple dash lights and the car will go into limp mode and won’t accelerate over 10mph. I’m not sure what issue your having.. but at idle the IAC should handle that. You should be able to turn you car on , and pull on the throttle cable to see if that’s your problem , if the slack is affecting it’s ability to rev properly. Your idle should be unaffected by a throttle cable problem .
@@ZDriver1996 yup, had all those symptoms and the p2138 code. Just ran into a little snag with the throttle body cable after swapping out the part and just wanted to make sure there wasn't supposed to be any slack to it. I adjusted it a good bit and it seems to be ok now. No more issues after changing the part, so good there. I don't know if its just me being paranoid, but the gas pedal inside the car seems to be closer to the floor board. I'm not sure if its because of when I adjusted the throttle cable or not, but its no biggie. I can adjust it and see perhaps. Important thing is, car is running good now after changing part. No limp or acceleration issues. :-) Thanks for all your help!
Thanks for the video. I just got a quote for about $600 to fix it so I am going to try my own. My only question is when I tried to buy the part from your link it said it would not fit on my 2007 Honda Accord. Do you know what the part would be or why I would get that message? Thanks again
this sensor should work on your car
amzn.to/2zV2Dw7
Does it fit on crv?
Most likely it's the 2.4 liter
The camera position is really bad for the first half of this video. I'm seeing your head and hands mostly, not where the sensor actually is. Not hating just feedback.
Thanks for the feedback😎👍
can I just replace the sensor and not the whole thing?
+Rene Almodovar I'm pretty sure you have to buy the whole thing unfortunately
Cleeeean! :D
Thanks for watching