This is the exact part in my RV right now that I need to replace where can I find this part I’ve been searching the Internet but can’t seem to find it.
I ordered a described swap-out Safe-T-Alert detector from MTI Industries and Amazon quickly delivered a 2 wire detector to replace the 3 wire that was in my '98 Fleetwood Flair coach. I have sent an email yesterday to MTI, but have not heard back from them. The parts manager at my local RV dealer said that they quit making the 3 wire, but the tech told me that Amazon still has them. Now all I need is the right detector or a wiring diagram. I want to leave the solenoid at the LP tank because I think it is a valuable safety feature- this is a clear case of older technology being better than the cost-saving gained by eliminating a $50 solenoid. A gas fire in an RV would be horrible for a couple of disabled seniors and their little dog.
i called MTI, they said they can help me and that i have to call an RV tech.......what a bunch of buffoons................helpless and rude on the phone...did they ever reply to you via email about the 2 wire vs 3 wire?
Question- My LP detector has only 2 wires- Red and black. The repalcements have 3- 2 reds and a black. Can I just combine the 2 reds where there was just 1??? Thanks You!!!
Does anyone know how to remove the solenoid completely? As so I don't have to rely on the trouble of finding a replacement for the CCI 7719. For some reason there are no videos about this out there. I have a 94' Fleetwood Tioga Arrow. Thanks
quick question.. im replacing my co lp detector but there are only wires with the tips stripped.. where do you buy snap together connectors for these wires .. now that radio shack is gone.. im not sure of local sources the wire behind my wall is too short to put out and strip .. so i need to match the connector with the longer wires of the new co lp detector..
Is it likely that someone with real sensitive hearing would hear a very high pitched irregular tone coming from one of these? My wife can hear one in our new 2017 Montana but I cannot. When we close off the bedroom door, she cannot hear it so it is either coming from something like this or maybe the power inverter.
THANKS SO I TAKE IT THAT IF I HAVE NO GAS ON AND NO GAS COOKING IT IS ON ELECTRICITY THEN I NEED TO REPLACE THE GAS DETECTOR PART WHERE CAN I GET THIS FROM IN NEW ZEALAND
I have an '85 Fleetwood Pacearrow with one of these. They are no longer produced however, they can be rebuilt. As to your question, if you go to the solenoid at the gas tank turn off the main valve at the tank. Use a volt ohm meter set to Rx1 scale to read resistance you should read about 12 ohms resistance. If you read "0" ohms the coil is shorted, if you read NO ohms the coil is burned open. DO NOT short the red and yellow wires the 12vdc this WILL burn out the solenoid. Currently I do not have a source for the solenoid. If you see a manufacturer's plate on the solenoid please let me know the manufacturer's name, model number and operating volts if listed. As to the detector itself when switched "ON" if it goes immediately into alarm and does not shut off, the internal 'Sniffer Sensor' is bad. All is not lost, if you know how to solder you can restore the function. The sniffer sensor can be purchased on Ebay. It is a "Figaro TGS-813" cost is about $6 each. In my case I purchased 2 so as to have one as a spare. The case of the detector is assembled with "hot glue" and can be easily cut open with a utility or linoleum knife the PCB then lifts out. Remove, desolder the defective Sensor install the new sensor the unit is good as new. Do not mess with the POT on the board as it is sealed and set at factory calibration specs. You can also PM me I will respond. I hope this helps.
Michael Schmidt Hi! Do you have any videos or a blog anywhere? I'm trying to get my 1988 Fleetwood Southwind ready to take my mother from New Mexico to Washington state and so I'm trying to learn about and repair each area. I'm currently working on my propane system. The solenoid seems to be working properly, but when I switch on the lpg detector, it immediately starts beeping and doesn't stop. The light on the right briefly flashes after a minute and beeps for a couple of beeps before it stops. The continuous beeping on the left keeps going. Is that the one you're referring to where I should replace the "sniffer sensor"?
This is the exact part in my RV right now that I need to replace where can I find this part I’ve been searching the Internet but can’t seem to find it.
I ordered a described swap-out Safe-T-Alert detector from MTI Industries and Amazon quickly delivered a 2 wire detector to replace the 3 wire that was in my '98 Fleetwood Flair coach. I have sent an email yesterday to MTI, but have not heard back from them. The parts manager at my local RV dealer said that they quit making the 3 wire, but the tech told me that Amazon still has them. Now all I need is the right detector or a wiring diagram. I want to leave the solenoid at the LP tank because I think it is a valuable safety feature- this is a clear case of older technology being better than the cost-saving gained by eliminating a $50 solenoid. A gas fire in an RV would be horrible for a couple of disabled seniors and their little dog.
i called MTI, they said they can help me and that i have to call an RV tech.......what a bunch of buffoons................helpless and rude on the phone...did they ever reply to you via email about the 2 wire vs 3 wire?
Question-
My LP detector has only 2 wires- Red and black.
The repalcements have 3- 2 reds and a black.
Can I just combine the 2 reds where there was just 1???
Thanks You!!!
Does anyone know how to remove the solenoid completely? As so I don't have to rely on the trouble of finding a replacement for the CCI 7719. For some reason there are no videos about this out there. I have a 94' Fleetwood Tioga Arrow. Thanks
A good tip is use a coffe pot to make hot water for dishes and anything else you need hot water for
Thanks
-Tyler Rabatin Parma Ohio
quick question.. im replacing my co lp detector but there are only wires with the tips stripped.. where do you buy snap together connectors for these wires .. now that radio shack is gone.. im not sure of local sources the wire behind my wall is too short to put out and strip .. so i need to match the connector with the longer wires of the new co lp detector..
Mine appears to have been installed with rivets. So do I have to drill out the rivets?
Is it likely that someone with real sensitive hearing would hear a very high pitched irregular tone coming from one of these? My wife can hear one in our new 2017 Montana but I cannot. When we close off the bedroom door, she cannot hear it so it is either coming from something like this or maybe the power inverter.
Sounds like that would drive a dog absolutely nuts.
Is the gas defector the same as a carbon monoxide detector?
THANKS SO I TAKE IT THAT IF I HAVE NO GAS ON AND NO GAS COOKING IT IS ON ELECTRICITY THEN I NEED TO REPLACE THE GAS DETECTOR PART WHERE CAN I GET THIS FROM IN NEW ZEALAND
My lights won't stop turning on and off randomly they'll go off for a couple hours turn back on for like 30 or 40 minutes
anyone know of the replacement model.
I thought CCI went out of business. Is it possible to get a replacement of the exact same model (7719?) that you swapped out in the video?
Garth Faigley did you find a source for the 7719?
Garth Faigley wn
Mmm
Fjaaaaaaaj
Its a really bad idea to have a off on switch like that one because you can brush by accident with your foot /pantleg,, and turn off the unit
Just remover the guts from my solenoid and wait till you see how easy it is. No more beepy for me.
how do you test the solenoid?
I have an '85 Fleetwood Pacearrow with one of these. They are no longer produced however, they can be rebuilt. As to your question, if you go to the solenoid at the gas tank turn off the main valve at the tank. Use a volt ohm meter set to Rx1 scale to read resistance you should read about 12 ohms resistance. If you read "0" ohms the coil is shorted, if you read NO ohms the coil is burned open. DO NOT short the red and yellow wires the 12vdc this WILL burn out the solenoid. Currently I do not have a source for the solenoid. If you see a manufacturer's plate on the solenoid please let me know the manufacturer's name, model number and operating volts if listed.
As to the detector itself when switched "ON" if it goes immediately into alarm and does not shut off, the internal 'Sniffer Sensor' is bad. All is not lost, if you know how to solder you can restore the function. The sniffer sensor can be purchased on Ebay. It is a "Figaro TGS-813" cost is about $6 each. In my case I purchased 2 so as to have one as a spare. The case of the detector is assembled with "hot glue" and can be easily cut open with a utility or linoleum knife the PCB then lifts out. Remove, desolder the defective Sensor install the new sensor the unit is good as new. Do not mess with the POT on the board as it is sealed and set at factory calibration specs. You can also PM me I will respond. I hope this helps.
Michael Schmidt Hi! Do you have any videos or a blog anywhere? I'm trying to get my 1988 Fleetwood Southwind ready to take my mother from New Mexico to Washington state and so I'm trying to learn about and repair each area. I'm currently working on my propane system. The solenoid seems to be working properly, but when I switch on the lpg detector, it immediately starts beeping and doesn't stop. The light on the right briefly flashes after a minute and beeps for a couple of beeps before it stops. The continuous beeping on the left keeps going. Is that the one you're referring to where I should replace the "sniffer sensor"?
Do you need to disconnect the RV Marine Battery before doing this???