Did you make sure the damper flap has enough clearance to open up when the fan is on? The screws in the damper portion seem like they would block the damper from opening.
You don't use screws on there. They are supporting metal that is about as fragile as aluminum foil. If he didn't put the tape on it, the inspector would definitely fail that because it is 100% wrong.
Building Code is minimal. BP- best practice or BAT- best available technology. Seems like you could have centered it half an inch down to get it even with the siding then. There are many better exhaust hoods, stainless, plastic less protruding, color matching, sprayed painted to color matching to the siding. Run rigid insulated pipe or again minimal insulated duct for moisture and mold. Stainless screws and color caulking anything but white. I do it right or don't do it at all. End of story.
A lot of it is common sense. You should have seen the OLD exhaust fan I am replacing. The fan was installed in the 70's. It had heat, light and vent and could run combination of these functions. It is only a 4 foot run on the first floor. Their is also a second floor above where the vent is. You did a great job on yours. Wish mine was that easy.
I used self tapping stainless steel 1/4” framing screws to screw HVAC together. These screws help to pre drill holes easier in metal. Then I used pointer drywall screws to secure to home.
@@vinnythehandyman Funny, I can't seem to find any black stainless teel screws. All the stainless steel screws I can find are ...stainless steel. You know what screws are black? Drywall screws, but only an idiot would use drywall screws for anything other than drywall.
Thanks for sharing. This video is gonna help a lot with my basement bathroom. I just finished framing and next is hvac. Wasn’t sure how to cut through the vinyl siding if it would be ok or if it would crack all over the place. I’m new to all this
@@vinnythehandyman Cool! Thanks and totally seems kind a good price. Doing all my home renovations has me really enjoying this type of work. Maybe a side business someday! Be safe out there
It’s very rewarding! There’s nothing like gaining confidence in a project and applying over and over with the added bonus of saving money to help your family. Be safe as well and thanks for watching.
Vinny, Great job and good info along the way as you completed each step. Have you ever installed one of these on an house that doesn't have a vinyl siding low enough to cut thru? If the house foundation has stucco... is there a way to cut thru that? My fear is running into the concrete foundation. Without the correct tools that could be a PITA to deal with just for an exhaust fan. Also, does the exhaust pipe have to run in a straight line to the outside or can it take turns?
The exterior was concrete board. Stucco would be same process. Once you start in stucco the key hole saw will walk through chicken wire and then you will have 2 sheets of plywood and your done. If by chance you crack a little stucco just use caulking and paint. Yes you can have turns as well. Also, the framing is above foundation in most cases. Especially if you have a basement.
@@vinnythehandyman This is 100% wrong. The distance is determined by the ducting size and the power (CFM) of the fan. For example, if you have a 125-CFM rated bathroom exhaust fan with a smooth-walled duct whose diameter stands at 5 inches, the duct’s length shouldn’t go over 51 feet. If you are using flexible ducting, which is not smooth, the distance will be less. If you are using a smaller ducting, the distance will be even less. If you are using a less powerful fan, the distance is even less. Simple rule of thumb woudl be to keep it as short as possible. I would avoid going over 8 feet with 4 inch flexible ducting.
Great video, Vinny!! Questions: 1. will that keyhole saw also work when drilling through exterior cinder blocks? 2. What kind of screws would I use to attach the vent to the exterior cinder block?
Go to your big box store and in the hammer drill section they sell carbide core mason saws for concrete. I would use the blue Tapcon mason screws. In the event you can’t get a carbide bit then you can use a marker and draw a circle then hit with chisel and hammer. Best of luck!
@@vinnythehandyman overall good thanks for asking. Just need to go back in the attic and adjust the insulation figure out how to add a new switch to control the dimmable light lol. But the fan works!
Not for a basement in Colorado. This was a 2 story house so going through roof would be a monumental task. It’s just air from a fan. Even sewer vent pipes and be vented on the side.
Not for a basement in Colorado. This was a 2 story house so going through roof would be a monumental task. It’s just air from a fan. Even sewer vent pipes and be vented on the side.
To your point should of used stainless steel for weather protection. I did silicone and paint to help that process. Thanks for watching hope you found some points useful.
@@randywilkinson2763 The caulking should go around the hole (with a small gap at the bottom) and around the top and sides (not the bottom) of the back of the cover. Compression will make the caulking much more effective and help keep it in place even if it starts to dry out over the year. Smearing caulking all over the outside of things is not the correct way to do it and it also looks like crap.
@@vinnythehandyman Oh, so you didn't use stainless steel screws, so you lied in your other response where you said you did? I didn't think they made any black stainless steel screws.
@@MAGAMAN stainless steel was on duct work only on outside. Please Watch again…. But yes, I should of used also outside connecting to siding. Anyway… looking forward to Trump 2024 best of luck sir.
Hey man, nice Vid. And don't forget to spray foam the inside of the exhaust vent, just to keep older man winter outside. Cheers.
Did you make sure the damper flap has enough clearance to open up when the fan is on? The screws in the damper portion seem like they would block the damper from opening.
You don't use screws on there. They are supporting metal that is about as fragile as aluminum foil. If he didn't put the tape on it, the inspector would definitely fail that because it is 100% wrong.
@@MAGAMAN that’s the thing it appears he did it wrong
Great job! Thanks for the video. But should the duct not be insulated?
No,it’s not tied into central air.
Building Code is minimal. BP- best practice or BAT- best available technology. Seems like you could have centered it half an inch down to get it even with the siding then. There are many better exhaust hoods, stainless, plastic less protruding, color matching, sprayed painted to color matching to the siding. Run rigid insulated pipe or again minimal insulated duct for moisture and mold. Stainless screws and color caulking anything but white. I do it right or don't do it at all. End of story.
A lot of it is common sense. You should have seen the OLD exhaust fan I am replacing. The fan was installed in the 70's. It had heat, light and vent and could run combination of these functions. It is only a 4 foot run on the first floor. Their is also a second floor above where the vent is. You did a great job on yours. Wish mine was that easy.
Best of luck on your install. Thanks for watching!
Perfect video i needed for my exhaust fan installation....Thank you so very much sharing this video with us...
Thanks for sharing your thoughts🙏
Would you do a 25’ run with a 110CFM fan; Broan Nutone?
Yeah your good. 👍
Excellent. Thank you
You’re welcome!
How do you attach more flex hose if need to be longer then what you have ?
Just add a 4” connector splice collar and attach duct work to each side.
does you damper open properly with those screws
Good job, jus use clear silicone outside next time
Appreciate the feedback sir. Thanks for watching.
What kind of screws did you use to screw the vent to the siding? Did you say you pre-drilled the holes for the screws?
I used self tapping stainless steel 1/4” framing screws to screw HVAC together. These screws help to pre drill holes easier in metal. Then I used pointer drywall screws to secure to home.
@@vinnythehandyman Funny, I can't seem to find any black stainless teel screws. All the stainless steel screws I can find are ...stainless steel. You know what screws are black? Drywall screws, but only an idiot would use drywall screws for anything other than drywall.
Why use drywall screws on exterior. Stainless would of been better.I would have used sealant before installing the vent for a cleaner look.
Exactly what I needed! I need to install the same setup. Very helpful thank u 👍
You’re welcome!
Thanks Vinny, not too many videos like this. I have to tackle the same on mine now.
Thanks man for watching. Good luck on your install.
There need to be less videos like this. The guy is an idiot.
Thanks for sharing. This video is gonna help a lot with my basement bathroom. I just finished framing and next is hvac. Wasn’t sure how to cut through the vinyl siding if it would be ok or if it would crack all over the place. I’m new to all this
You will be fine. Best of luck on your install. Thanks for watching!
Helpful on my fan project, thanks! Curious, what do you charge for a job like that?
I charged the customer 500.00 for this install. The owner provided the fan.
@@vinnythehandyman Cool! Thanks and totally seems kind a good price. Doing all my home renovations has me really enjoying this type of work. Maybe a side business someday! Be safe out there
It’s very rewarding! There’s nothing like gaining confidence in a project and applying over and over with the added bonus of saving money to help your family. Be safe as well and thanks for watching.
Good Morning Vinny, my brother...keep up the good work, God Bless you!!!
Thanks Joe! Thank you for your support God bless you and your family
How much did you charge for that?
@wilsoncruz9330
I charged 500.00
Awesome, thank you for your expertise. Educating self prior to contacting the pros.😊
Code violation (irc) screws can not pertrude more than 1/8 in the inside of the duct.
It is a good video just watch out for those screws.
Vinny, Great job and good info along the way as you completed each step. Have you ever installed one of these on an house that doesn't have a vinyl siding low enough to cut thru? If the house foundation has stucco... is there a way to cut thru that? My fear is running into the concrete foundation. Without the correct tools that could be a PITA to deal with just for an exhaust fan. Also, does the exhaust pipe have to run in a straight line to the outside or can it take turns?
The exterior was concrete board. Stucco would be same process. Once you start in stucco the key hole saw will walk through chicken wire and then you will have 2 sheets of plywood and your done. If by chance you crack a little stucco just use caulking and paint. Yes you can have turns as well. Also, the framing is above foundation in most cases. Especially if you have a basement.
Excellent! Thank you so much!
You’re welcome Johnathan! Best of luck on your install.
The only corncern is the screws to the black plastic, must of the fan have a gravity damper.
How far can you vent a fan to the outside?
Hi Phil! If you run a 4" vent then you can make the run as long as needed. Thanks for watching!
@@vinnythehandyman can you tie multiple vents together to avoid multiple exterior cuts
@@philbrown9774 One Vent per fan.
@@vinnythehandyman This is 100% wrong. The distance is determined by the ducting size and the power (CFM) of the fan.
For example, if you have a 125-CFM rated bathroom exhaust fan with a smooth-walled duct whose diameter stands at 5 inches, the duct’s length shouldn’t go over 51 feet. If you are using flexible ducting, which is not smooth, the distance will be less. If you are using a smaller ducting, the distance will be even less. If you are using a less powerful fan, the distance is even less.
Simple rule of thumb woudl be to keep it as short as possible. I would avoid going over 8 feet with 4 inch flexible ducting.
Great video, Vinny!! Questions: 1. will that keyhole saw also work when drilling through exterior cinder blocks? 2. What kind of screws would I use to attach the vent to the exterior cinder block?
Go to your big box store and in the hammer drill section they sell carbide core mason saws for concrete. I would use the blue Tapcon mason screws. In the event you can’t get a carbide bit then you can use a marker and draw a circle then hit with chisel and hammer. Best of luck!
@@vinnythehandyman Thank you so much for responding. 😊
👍
Did you get it? I would recommend a Mag Bit hole saw. Mine was full of concrete and grout, but I still got through eventually.
Hi Vinny! How much did you charge for this job?
Hi! I charged 500.00. This excludes the fan. However fans aren’t that expensive.
Your video is Very interesting ❤️❤️❤️❤️
It's also very wrong.
Great job i wished you lived in N.Y.
Thanks Dru! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Thanks for supporting my new channel.
Great video. FYI. You could have drilled that first hole from the outside instead of from the inside.
like you show in the video. 😂 Blessings!
Thanks man for watching. Appreciate the feedback.
Where did the end of your hammer go 😂 good one! Finishing my basement and this came in handy. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Thanks Art for watching and posting. Glad the video helped you out.
Good job thanks
Glad you found value in the video. Good luck on your install.
I need to upgrade 3” to 4” duct
How did your installation go Steve?
@@vinnythehandyman overall good thanks for asking. Just need to go back in the attic and adjust the insulation figure out how to add a new switch to control the dimmable light lol. But the fan works!
Good to hear man! Glad everything worked out. Have a great weekend 👍
Hey Sir if you want I can SEO Your video if you want let me know
Nice and smart
Thank you for watching!
From what I found out you must vent through the roof, never along a wall and at least 3' from windows or doors...
Not for a basement in Colorado. This was a 2 story house so going through roof would be a monumental task. It’s just air from a fan. Even sewer vent pipes and be vented on the side.
Not for a basement in Colorado. This was a 2 story house so going through roof would be a monumental task. It’s just air from a fan. Even sewer vent pipes and be vented on the side.
Did you seriously just run drywall screws through the exhaust? Seriously man!
Looked like you used drywall screws to attach the vent to the siding. If so, shame on you
To your point should of used stainless steel for weather protection. I did silicone and paint to help that process. Thanks for watching hope you found some points useful.
@@vinnythehandyman also I would have pumped some caulk in the hole before inserting the hose all the way. It's the thought that counts.
@@randywilkinson2763 The caulking should go around the hole (with a small gap at the bottom) and around the top and sides (not the bottom) of the back of the cover. Compression will make the caulking much more effective and help keep it in place even if it starts to dry out over the year. Smearing caulking all over the outside of things is not the correct way to do it and it also looks like crap.
@@vinnythehandyman Oh, so you didn't use stainless steel screws, so you lied in your other response where you said you did? I didn't think they made any black stainless steel screws.
@@MAGAMAN stainless steel was on duct work only on outside. Please Watch again…. But yes, I should of used also outside connecting to siding. Anyway… looking forward to Trump 2024 best of luck sir.