So, my farm vehicle where I work is a 83 ford f350 with a 24' bucket crane on the back (really comes in handy) and a 351 Windsor. The truck suffered from the notorious takes a half hour to fill the tank because reasons. Before I changed the tank I ran a 3/8" polystyrene line from the rollover valve to a ball valve in the cabin and then to manifold vacuum. When putting gas in I'd Crack the valve and pull a vacuum on the tank and vwalla, took about 2 or 3 minutes. But that got me thinking about the feasibility of what your doing here. Nice car btw
The old sending unit o-rings will often expand from being in contact with gas, often times you pull it off and it'll be bigger than the new one, this also pretty much makes it impossible to reuse, UNLESS you boil it in water for about 15 minutes which shrinks it back to mostly normal size. I've done that in a pinch when I couldn't get a replacement o-ring and needed the truck back on the road. Now I'm here because the dead head setup on my 460 has irked me one too many times, I'm going to fight this vapor lock demon. I plan to wrap the starter with one of those little insulated blankets, run a return line from this filter back to the tank, and insulate the fuel lines near heat sources, eventually I'll have near EFI-level performance and reliability without spending an arm and a leg.
I wish they made these sending units to fit my 79 F150. I’m getting serious vapor lock with the crap ethanol gas. I am going to use the vapor line that went to the charcoal canister and bend some 1/4” stainless tubing. Not sure if I want to drop the tank to remove the sender and drill it and weld the tubing, or weld the tubing into the filler neck. I can’t even find a new filler neck for the truck, so I will probably mount it to the sender and bend it so it returns to the bottom of the tank to avoid bubbles getting back to the pump.
where did you get the sender with the return line fitting? Also is the filter vent nipple totally open or does it have an orifice? Is the return nipple in the sending unit straight or does it have an orifice? Where did you get the filter from and what size tubing did you use for the return line. I have a 1970 428CJ Mach 1 with a mechanical pump as well. Did you have any tank venting issues as well? I have the pop open cap with a cap and a notched neck but it hardly vents at all.
www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-fuel-sending-unit-with-return-line-stainless-steel-mustang-1965-1968/p/FSU65/?year=1965&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4ukBhAuEiwA0zQxk_3WsBUaEdAIijuid0yPyVURpdfqn0a_MtAYH7d8BbUS9ZmvsStFzBoCD3kQAvD_BwE Thank you! Heres the link to where i got mine! I know they are on ebay and other sites As well randomly
Flawlessly actually- it acts just like a fuel return even when just running it at idle. You can pull the full cap and hear it actually working. No power loss at all either at high rpm
Thank you! It was the cheapest too, i brought it up on a forum before and everyone said it wouldnt work, im stubborn. Ill probably post a video of it in action soon
Thank you for showing your video. I might have to do that to my 68 mustang. Been having same problem you had. Ethanol fuel is rough on theses older cars especially when it is warmer out 👍🙏
So, my farm vehicle where I work is a 83 ford f350 with a 24' bucket crane on the back (really comes in handy) and a 351 Windsor. The truck suffered from the notorious takes a half hour to fill the tank because reasons. Before I changed the tank I ran a 3/8" polystyrene line from the rollover valve to a ball valve in the cabin and then to manifold vacuum. When putting gas in I'd Crack the valve and pull a vacuum on the tank and vwalla, took about 2 or 3 minutes. But that got me thinking about the feasibility of what your doing here. Nice car btw
As a Firefighter I have had fire's caused by static electricity and fuel tanks. Plastic will transmit static electricity. Use a brass drift.
Thanks for the heads up!
The old sending unit o-rings will often expand from being in contact with gas, often times you pull it off and it'll be bigger than the new one, this also pretty much makes it impossible to reuse, UNLESS you boil it in water for about 15 minutes which shrinks it back to mostly normal size. I've done that in a pinch when I couldn't get a replacement o-ring and needed the truck back on the road. Now I'm here because the dead head setup on my 460 has irked me one too many times, I'm going to fight this vapor lock demon. I plan to wrap the starter with one of those little insulated blankets, run a return line from this filter back to the tank, and insulate the fuel lines near heat sources, eventually I'll have near EFI-level performance and reliability without spending an arm and a leg.
I wish they made these sending units to fit my 79 F150. I’m getting serious vapor lock with the crap ethanol gas. I am going to use the vapor line that went to the charcoal canister and bend some 1/4” stainless tubing. Not sure if I want to drop the tank to remove the sender and drill it and weld the tubing, or weld the tubing into the filler neck. I can’t even find a new filler neck for the truck, so I will probably mount it to the sender and bend it so it returns to the bottom of the tank to avoid bubbles getting back to the pump.
where did you get the sender with the return line fitting? Also is the filter vent nipple totally open or does it have an orifice? Is the return nipple in the sending unit straight or does it have an orifice? Where did you get the filter from and what size tubing did you use for the return line. I have a 1970 428CJ Mach 1 with a mechanical pump as well. Did you have any tank venting issues as well? I have the pop open cap with a cap and a notched neck but it hardly vents at all.
You can get brass punches at O'Reilly's or Napa.
Did you notice any problem because the return line was SMALLER than the supply line?
Did you ever have an update- did this help?
Great video, big question is, where can one pick these return sending units from? You have everyones attention now!
www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-fuel-sending-unit-with-return-line-stainless-steel-mustang-1965-1968/p/FSU65/?year=1965&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4ukBhAuEiwA0zQxk_3WsBUaEdAIijuid0yPyVURpdfqn0a_MtAYH7d8BbUS9ZmvsStFzBoCD3kQAvD_BwE
Thank you! Heres the link to where i got mine!
I know they are on ebay and other sites
As well randomly
Hows it working out?
Flawlessly actually- it acts just like a fuel return even when just running it at idle. You can pull the full cap and hear it actually working. No power loss at all either at high rpm
@@fix-itrandy3724 That's an awesome mod. You're the first person I've seen do it
Thank you! It was the cheapest too, i brought it up on a forum before and everyone said it wouldnt work, im stubborn. Ill probably post a video of it in action soon
Thank you for showing your video. I might have to do that to my 68 mustang. Been having same problem you had. Ethanol fuel is rough on theses older cars especially when it is warmer out 👍🙏
What’s the filter part number
Wix 33040