Drop Header, Hartford Loop & A VXT Automatic Water Feeder On A Columbia Steam Boiler Install
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- We also did a combustion test on commissioning.
No adjustments were necessary to the firing rate.
As usual, the Pressuretrol was messed up/non-functional and needed adjustments (as shown in other videos) to get it to work as it should.
Nice as usual. Baltimore is fortunate to have you gents.
Thank you, Sir!
Well done as usual!!
I appreciate you craftsman out there.
@@jfrancis98 Thank you for your kind words & encouragement !
Yet another excellent instal!
@@dannywilkins887 Thank you, sir!
That's fascinating that they show a bullhead tee on the end of the header. I wonder if they made a mistake when drawing that diagram. You'd think it would pull all of the water going down the equalizer right up into the steam main. In my own system I decided to go all out on the header design and do a 3 inch drop header on a Megasteam 288, with king valves and return valve, a wye for the hartford loop, and ductile iron fittings below the water line, cast iron above. But since I'm installing it myself I can afford to go all out on my own installation. I can see where customers expect low prices and if you bid too high they may call someone else. The only real reason I use cast iron fittings today is because I know if I used malleable it wouldn't look right to me, and the boiler is right next to my workshop in the basement so I would be seeing it every day. I did go with imported cast iron vs domestic where I could, like the 3 inch fittings, because if I had gone domestic even with an account at the local plumbing supply, I would have spent roughly 3x the price per fitting. Surprisingly the imported cast fittings are much cheaper above 2 inch, but sometimes more expensive in the smaller sizes. Some of the fittings in the rest of the system like an eccentric reducer are so expensive that I cut the pipes short on the original 100 year old one, took it into the shop, and cut slots in the pipes and crushed them to get them out and reuse the original eccentric reducer.
that 3/4 x 7/8 compression adapter is smart. I think I'll be doing that in the future if I gotta replace a T&P valve
Thanks!
It's really helpful on hot water boiler relief valves, as they tend to require service more often.
Do you ever put shut off valves on the risers for blow down purposes. I have a building that they welded up the mud drum clean outs. So my only option for a good blow down is to close off the branch runs. Run the pressure up to 10 psi and open the bottom blow down valve.......it really blasts all the muck out of the bottom.
@@jasonjohnsonHVAC In your particular case, I'd say yes, a "king valve" was a good move.
For the most part, in residential systems, there aren't really good places to run the blow down!
In my own boiler install I'm installing two 2 inch OS&Y gate valves, one in each riser from the header to the steam main, and one 1-1/2 gate valve in the return. Because the king valves are flanged, that gives me a place to join together the near boiler piping and the system piping without using a separate union. In most residential systems I think the valves would get stuck because nobody would touch them for years, and also what he said about nowhere to run the blow down. In my house I have a walk out basement so you can just run it out the door, or you can bring the hose to the main part of the basement and stick it under the pressure treated wood floor to drain it into the dirt underneath. But I pay more attention to my boiler than most homeowners would.
You mentioned the gas service shut off change. Are tapered plug shut offs allowed still? They are banned in my province and a valve with a CSA 3.16 certification must be installed.
I guess the grease lube on the old valves must be finally drying out and causing leaks
Last I heard, taper plug shut-offs for gas are, at best, "grandfathered" down here.
If the gas line is touched, the obsolete valve must (and by rights should be) replaced with the CSA 3.16 valve, with a "U S" on either side of the CSA mark.
CSA being recognized as a better standard than AGA. Go Canada!
The old "AGA" (American Gas Association) mark is passing into history (still allowed, mostly).
The lube dries out and the plug gets stuck.
They also generally need a separate tool to operate them. Not good in an emergency.
I have seen them with broken handles where someone has wrung them off.
Once again, another beautiful job with great explanations.
One quick question, the location of my outbound steam pipes force my boiler to be on the floor (while maintaining the 24" from the water line to the beginning of the header)- as the one you have in this video is. If I add the drop header, would I be able to lift the boiler off the floor by the same amount as the drop header distance? I know most of the near boiler piping would have to change as well, but I'm just trying to make servicing the unit a little easier on the knees.
Thank you for encouraging words and for your question!
Yes, a drop header should allow you to get your boiler up on blocks (4" at least. A Good Thing), but there might be a limit to how low your header can go.
I don't know what that limit is, before the top of the equalizer line and the water returning in the Hartford Loop start getting too close to each other.
I like your street 90 used on the loop in place of a close. Was brass intentional?
Thank you!
The brass was intentional. Sometimes we use stainless and sometimes just plain old malleable.
It should be noted that disadvantages of using a street 90 ell is that it might "lock up" in a less than advantageous final orientation & also it might end up too close to the equilizer line.
Galvanized tee on the supply?
@@Mike-rm7vf We have found in taking apart scores of steam boilers that one or two galvanized fittings or nipples here or there appear to have no deleterious effects on either the fittings & nipples or steam production.
I have an earlier video showing what the inside of a galvanized nipple looks like after decades of use on steam.
We are also starting to wind down operations and retire, so we are using up old stock.
Also,I don’t see many guys using vaporstats. Do you use them?
Yes, on systems that were designed for 1/2 psi or less (i.e. "vapor" steam systems or two-pipe)
@ would your A dimension dictate the pressure needed to run the system? Do you ever come across a home and say “ oh I know this is a xyz system,it’s meant to run at x pressure”
@@Clamjammer Generally, steam systems installed after December 1899 followed what became known as "the two pound standard", that is to say steam heating systems were required to be designed to use no more than 2 psi at the boiler or the manufacturer would not cover any losses if the boiler failed.
So odd the riser are out of the side
Yes, I generally prefer the top outlet, but we take what we can get and what fits in the space the best (control access, etc)