I don't feel comfortable lying under a car on jackstands. That's a job i'll pass on. I just replaced all my struts. Not ashamed to admit i went cheap putting FCS all around except for rear springs lesjofors. Rides better, however, the stiffer suspension exposed the blown out sway bar bracket(rust victim). I just order new brackets, bushings and links. I'm confused though because i have a Linear but the swaybar measures 20mm, which is sport. 🤔
I have a Linear as well but with the sports chassi option from factory, in fact, the same as the aero. Look at the sticker in the drivers side door jam. There are some letters that correspond to different configurations. Look up what they mean online. Alternatively, use a VIN decoder.
@@thingserik7269 Yes, I have both 16" in the winter and 17" in the summer. The wheel size has nothing to do with the chassi setup. My car happens to be a 2.3t biopower, thus it has the bigger aero brakes up front as well. Although, i can still fit 16" wheels. If you have the standard brakes you'll probably be able to fit 15" even.
@@linusgrinde210 Well, i hope i have standard brakes because i have 288 rotors in my house waiting for me to put them on. I have not checked the chassis numbers yet i just spent 40 minutes trying to get my phone account back. What a bizarre story THAT was. Don't ever swap a sim card to a new phone then decide to return the new phone and put the card back in your old phone. They deactivated my account and then the tech support tells me the number does not belong to my old phone even though i've been using it for 2 yrs. WOW!
Same thing here on my 2003 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon, the clamp holding down my sway bar on my passenger side just broke in half due to rust. I was able to get the front bolt out with a lot of PB Blaster, but the rear bolt stripped, then when I used a bolt extraction socket, the head of the bolt snapped off, #*#@!!. Now, I think I'm looking at dropping subframe and while we're at it, may replace the power steering rack bushings which are another nightmare.
Great work as always! I did mine a month ago at 194k miles. Wow! I knew they were bad but it completely transformed the car. Start up, shut down, open highways, everything is so much smoother. I enjoy the car again.
Thanks for video! I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, (not enough room for the tiger saw) to get the outer metal housing out., In addition...As I used the original bushes and pressed them in from beneath...make sure to put some temporary spacers between the subframe and the body when pushing the bushes in...if not the subframe is pressed against the body and there is no room for the rubber to expand. (I learned the hard way)
GM had nothing to do with the bushings or anything on this car it was designed in sweeden at saab...gm just had a stake in the company...these sub frame bushings are similar to volvo bmw benz etc
I started this job today on my 2002 9-5 Aero. Wow it is not fun! I was able to drill out the middle of the old bushings but can't pry the outer metal piece out. Going to go to harbor freight and get a small reciprocating air saw, my sawzall is too long to fit up there. Fun times!
Anyone planning to do this job please note.... When I did mine, the rear bushings had a metal inner race, not plastic. They were sized in. I had to bend the lower part of the collar using a pry bar to help break the sized join. Then to remove I managed to fit a 27mm socket over the top, the same way you fit the new bushing, and jack up the subframe and the collar popped out. I did the same on the centre bushings which were in fact plastic, but my way was much quicker and easier than cutting or deforming them. I didnt drill or cut old bushings either, i put something solid between subframe and chassis and jacket a vertical bar up and it popped the inner bushings out.
Nice job Kyle. I am trying to get the courage to do this myself, I'm having these strange sounds from the front of the car and after replacing other parts I suspect worn subframe bushings are causing the knocking sound. I'm just trying to decide between the cheeper ones you use or the power flex ones. I have heard that the cheep ones don't last as long and that the metal middle part isn't stainless and will rust and cause problems. I know that you don't keep all your Saabs that long, but have you (or anyone else reading this) had any problems with the cheeper subframe bushing.
Mine is a 09 95 I've done the bushings when if first bought the car but now i'm starting to hear the "creaking" noise again.... so by your video, jack car up on 4 sides, then do one side at a time, drop front bolt and the strut mounts up top and that should drop the subframe on corresponding side enough to drill out the bushings?
I see a lot of 95s that have the inner wheel well filler all chewed up on the front part. Is that because of bad subframe bushings? that the wheel rocks back and forth and rubs on the inner wheel apron?
The vibrations you mentioned in this video, is it most noticeable when idling in DRIVE? I just picked up a 2004 Aero SportCombi with 160k miles, and there is a pronounced vibration when stopped in DRIVE, which decreases significantly if I shift into NEUTRAL or apply throttle. I suspected either an engine or transmission mount but are the subframe bushings the more likely culprit?
I have this exact same situation in my 01 95 with 130k replaced all engine and transmission mounts to new I did lose a lot of vibrations on most time running but still having this one vibration so it seems that my subframe bushings are my last thing to get rid of?
Are the 93s similar Im having bushing issues and a nasty vibration and subframe is the last thing to check I've replaced every bushing arm and suspension component possible I. The front and rear except that, also got an alignment tire rotation and balance and still nothing 😅
I don't feel comfortable lying under a car on jackstands. That's a job i'll pass on. I just replaced all my struts. Not ashamed to admit i went cheap putting FCS all around except for rear springs lesjofors. Rides better, however, the stiffer suspension exposed the blown out sway bar bracket(rust victim). I just order new brackets, bushings and links. I'm confused though because i have a Linear but the swaybar measures 20mm, which is sport. 🤔
I have a Linear as well but with the sports chassi option from factory, in fact, the same as the aero. Look at the sticker in the drivers side door jam. There are some letters that correspond to different configurations. Look up what they mean online. Alternatively, use a VIN decoder.
@@linusgrinde210 But i have stock 16" wheels
@@thingserik7269 Yes, I have both 16" in the winter and 17" in the summer. The wheel size has nothing to do with the chassi setup. My car happens to be a 2.3t biopower, thus it has the bigger aero brakes up front as well. Although, i can still fit 16" wheels. If you have the standard brakes you'll probably be able to fit 15" even.
@@linusgrinde210 Well, i hope i have standard brakes because i have 288 rotors in my house waiting for me to put them on. I have not checked the chassis numbers yet i just spent 40 minutes trying to get my phone account back. What a bizarre story THAT was. Don't ever swap a sim card to a new phone then decide to return the new phone and put the card back in your old phone. They deactivated my account and then the tech support tells me the number does not belong to my old phone even though i've been using it for 2 yrs. WOW!
Same thing here on my 2003 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon, the clamp holding down my sway bar on my passenger side just broke in half due to rust. I was able to get the front bolt out with a lot of PB Blaster, but the rear bolt stripped, then when I used a bolt extraction socket, the head of the bolt snapped off, #*#@!!. Now, I think I'm looking at dropping subframe and while we're at it, may replace the power steering rack bushings which are another nightmare.
Great work as always! I did mine a month ago at 194k miles. Wow! I knew they were bad but it completely transformed the car. Start up, shut down, open highways, everything is so much smoother. I enjoy the car again.
Amazing. Night and day difference
Thanks for video! I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, (not enough room for the tiger saw) to get the outer metal housing out., In addition...As I used the original bushes and pressed them in from beneath...make sure to put some temporary spacers between the subframe and the body when pushing the bushes in...if not the subframe is pressed against the body and there is no room for the rubber to expand. (I learned the hard way)
Great work. What a difference. That bumpy road you call doesn't show a hint on the car/camera
GM had nothing to do with the bushings or anything on this car it was designed in sweeden at saab...gm just had a stake in the company...these sub frame bushings are similar to volvo bmw benz etc
Thanks for making these videos Kyle, I've watched both of your subframe bushing videos and appreciate the tips. I'll be doing this soon on my 2006.
Do they not make these for the 9-3 ng? A good guy and admin on the TX group makes custom metal ones but it's pretty expensive vs what you are saying.
Good work Kyle - make it look so easy! Couple of Q's, how long did it take you and what size hole saw?
I used a 1 1/8 inch when I did mine.
I started this job today on my 2002 9-5 Aero. Wow it is not fun! I was able to drill out the middle of the old bushings but can't pry the outer metal piece out. Going to go to harbor freight and get a small reciprocating air saw, my sawzall is too long to fit up there. Fun times!
Anyone planning to do this job please note.... When I did mine, the rear bushings had a metal inner race, not plastic. They were sized in. I had to bend the lower part of the collar using a pry bar to help break the sized join. Then to remove I managed to fit a 27mm socket over the top, the same way you fit the new bushing, and jack up the subframe and the collar popped out. I did the same on the centre bushings which were in fact plastic, but my way was much quicker and easier than cutting or deforming them. I didnt drill or cut old bushings either, i put something solid between subframe and chassis and jacket a vertical bar up and it popped the inner bushings out.
Nice job Kyle.
I am trying to get the courage to do this myself, I'm having these strange sounds from the front of the car and after replacing other parts I suspect worn subframe bushings are causing the knocking sound.
I'm just trying to decide between the cheeper ones you use or the power flex ones. I have heard that the cheep ones don't last as long and that the metal middle part isn't stainless and will rust and cause problems.
I know that you don't keep all your Saabs that long, but have you (or anyone else reading this) had any problems with the cheeper subframe bushing.
PLEASE make a video on changing the handbrake shoes! Would be so helpful!
Brah, I think if I watch 13 or 14 more of your videos, my old ass won’t be lazy anymore.
Hahahahaha I'm here for you
Great man!!
Only the 4 rear (of the front) were replaced right? The front 2 bushings were not done.
Mine is a 09 95 I've done the bushings when if first bought the car but now i'm starting to hear the "creaking" noise again.... so by your video, jack car up on 4 sides, then do one side at a time, drop front bolt and the strut mounts up top and that should drop the subframe on corresponding side enough to drill out the bushings?
I see a lot of 95s that have the inner wheel well filler all chewed up on the front part. Is that because of bad subframe bushings? that the wheel rocks back and forth and rubs on the inner wheel apron?
The vibrations you mentioned in this video, is it most noticeable when idling in DRIVE? I just picked up a 2004 Aero SportCombi with 160k miles, and there is a pronounced vibration when stopped in DRIVE, which decreases significantly if I shift into NEUTRAL or apply throttle. I suspected either an engine or transmission mount but are the subframe bushings the more likely culprit?
Yes! They are a huge culprit. Put a pry bar to one of the rear bolts and see if there is motion.
I have this exact same situation in my 01 95 with 130k replaced all engine and transmission mounts to new I did lose a lot of vibrations on most time running but still having this one vibration so it seems that my subframe bushings are my last thing to get rid of?
All the work you, it with just regular hand tools right?
Did you notice more noise or vibrations in the car after installation of the bushings??
Is this something you would recommend for an OG 9-3?
hello buddy, I have a question whether you cut only a rubber element from this bushings or do you need to cut this metal element at the same time?
How many labor hours would a shop charge to do what you did on this 9-5 to replace the subframe bushings Kyle?
Brand new to Saab ownership. Will these fit the refresh 9-5? Just picked up an 07 9-5 Sportcombi.
Hey how much you charge for the sub frame I have a 2003 saab 95 aero.
I Live in Jersey
what size is the torx on the subframe bolta
Are the 93s similar Im having bushing issues and a nasty vibration and subframe is the last thing to check I've replaced every bushing arm and suspension component possible I. The front and rear except that, also got an alignment tire rotation and balance and still nothing 😅
Also have a very loud popping/clunking noises on right turns with slightly heavy load
👍
I've got a 02 93 with 0 compression on #1 cylinder will a 04 93 engine work in my car?
no, different computer systems
I would have to change complete wiring harness?
@@jeffsratsrodsrebuilds1535 not 100% sure