Hey , Thanks for the mention Lonnie, I appreciate it. Good job by the way. You covered a few minor details like how to put the bearings in but I agree replace all the bearings while you're in there. It's too much work to take it back apart to change another bearing later. Peter Thompson
Thanks for putting these videos together they're very informative. Mine is starting to make some noise and I fear a rebuild isn't far off. These videos and the Peter Thompson video you refer to will be instrumental in ensuring my success when tackling the rebuild. Thanks again.
Hope it helps buddy, that's what it's all about. Been planning on doing some more just too many honey do's. Could have made an excellent video on how to do the bottom end on a Mazda 3 2.3 engine that everyone says you either have to buy a new engine, upgrade it, or tear the whole front end off. I paid 500 for a 2007 Mazda 3 with a rod knock. Drove it home to the former owners dismay then used less than $50.00 of parts, oil, etc. and had her up and going in a couple of hours . If I find another that cheap I may do it and show how to do it with taking the whole engine apart. LOL Good luck on your project.
Guys this is priceless to appreciative people looking for answers . Good tillers while the lubricant-ion is still working properly . Question ; did y’all use anything particular for the gasket between the half’s ? Lub needs to stay in . And you got any recommendations for seals on the wheel and tine shaft seals? Thanks again !!!!
Does this casing not have any sealant to keep the dirt and water out out of the case?? I've been trying to find a gasket for this case and I guess it doesn't have one which is totally strange.
It has no sealant. They don't sale a gasket for it. I didn't like the idea of no gasket so I used a silicone gasket sealer. The grease is so thick that it doesn't turn into a thin liquid and leak out.
Hi Lonnie. Maybe you can help with question I have about my cub cadet tiller. Looks to be same as yours…mine has 2 oil filler spots. Is one for gear oil? If so which one and what kind of gear oil? Thanks in advance!
They don't take oil they use grease. You can try to put gear oil in it but it will probably, slowly leak out because of the gasket and seals. If you do, use a heavy gear oil. The only gears that move the most is the tiller gears.
No gasket or sealant between the case halves? At the very least you should have cleaned the joint surfaces and used sealant. You're going to get water in the transmission which is bad news. Most tillers like this use a gasket I'm really surprised how you neglected this important step.
They don't make a gasket for this tiller because I looked, that's why I left the original silicone gasket on it. The gear grease will not get hot enough to turn to liquid and leak. You don't use gear oil. Also if you leave it outside you should cover it and you shouldn't till in the rain. There is no place on this unit to add grease so you better grease it good before you put it back together.
your spacers are wrong, they should be on the underside of your chain sprockets on the drive and tine, this centers the chain in the case , your chains are not centered, the cup or concave part of the bushing will face the sprockets and the flat side will have a washer in between ,,
I thought so too, but when I put it together it made it so tight that it locked up the drive wheels. I had to take it apart several times to get it right. I finally went to the manual and this is how it showed to install them and it worked. Thanks for the info.
@@LonnieJohnson1 thank you, after disassembly, it was the swing arm seized, detant thing was fine. tiller runs great.your video gave me courage to take the task on. thanks !
You can try to use heavy gear oil but you will have to drill a fill hole with a cap for it and then it could leak back out the seams, or you could drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk and just add more grease.
I would put a grease zerk at top close to shifter area where it can flow downward. You can put them where ever you think it will do the most good and you can put more than one. The best thing to do is to keep it out of the weather.
I'm looking for it but don't see it, maybe it was a different model I worked on, but you should be able to do put a grease fitting in it or drill a hole and put a plug or a grommet in it to seal it back up. I would put it up high and watch where you drill.
@@LonnieJohnson1 the one I have is a husky it the same as the cub I have had it for 10 or 11 years it has not give any trouble but I have never let it get wet I keep it in the dry
Hey , Thanks for the mention Lonnie, I appreciate it. Good job by the way. You covered a few minor details like how to put the bearings in but I agree replace all the bearings while you're in there. It's too much work to take it back apart to change another bearing later. Peter Thompson
You helped me to see how it worked before I tore into it. They r no fun to take apart or put back together
LonnieJohnson1 Rally Tiller
Thanks for putting these videos together they're very informative. Mine is starting to make some noise and I fear a rebuild isn't far off. These videos and the Peter Thompson video you refer to will be instrumental in ensuring my success when tackling the rebuild. Thanks again.
Your welcome.
Hope it helps buddy, that's what it's all about. Been planning on doing some more just too many honey do's. Could have made an excellent video on how to do the bottom end on a Mazda 3 2.3 engine that everyone says you either have to buy a new engine, upgrade it, or tear the whole front end off. I paid 500 for a 2007 Mazda 3 with a rod knock. Drove it home to the former owners dismay then used less than $50.00 of parts, oil, etc. and had her up and going in a couple of hours . If I find another that cheap I may do it and show how to do it with taking the whole engine apart. LOL Good luck on your project.
Guys this is priceless to appreciative people looking for answers . Good tillers while the lubricant-ion is still working properly . Question ; did y’all use anything particular for the gasket between the half’s ? Lub needs to stay in . And you got any recommendations for seals on the wheel and tine shaft seals? Thanks again !!!!
Appreciate your efficient editing
Thanks
Seriously good demo.
Thanks!
This is a great video. Thank you for taking the time to upload this tutorial.
Thanks, and your very welcome
Thank you for you patience to make this video, it is invaluable information.
Your welcome
Does this casing not have any sealant to keep the dirt and water out out of the case?? I've been trying to find a gasket for this case and I guess it doesn't have one which is totally strange.
It has no sealant. They don't sale a gasket for it. I didn't like the idea of no gasket so I used a silicone gasket sealer. The grease is so thick that it doesn't turn into a thin liquid and leak out.
Hi Lonnie. Maybe you can help with question I have about my cub cadet tiller. Looks to be same as yours…mine has 2 oil filler spots. Is one for gear oil? If so which one and what kind of gear oil? Thanks in advance!
They don't take oil they use grease. You can try to put gear oil in it but it will probably, slowly leak out because of the gasket and seals. If you do, use a heavy gear oil. The only gears that move the most is the tiller gears.
Hey Lonnie the spacer / collar on the time shaft goes on the other side according to the manufacturers schematic
I was working on the left side case according to the schematics. The schematics is showing the right side of the case.
The Sears version shows both wheel and tine spacers on the same side
I don't think the Sears is the same as the Cub Cadet. I have the schematics for the Cub but It's all good, thanks
in between the spacer and the housing of the case
Thanks
Did you scrape off all the silicone holding the two halves together?
Yes, all I could and then replaced with new silicone. Gear grease don't really get hot runny like liquid and leak like gear oil.
Thanks Lonnie, great video by the way...one more question, was it just regular silicone or rtv?
Automotive high heat, but I don't think it would matter. Just my opinion.
Are the gaskets the same across multiple makes? ie: craftsman tillers?
They don't have gaskets
Anyone know where to get 1 steel ball? Only finding a pack of 12.
No gasket or sealant between the case halves? At the very least you should have cleaned the joint surfaces and used sealant. You're going to get water in the transmission which is bad news. Most tillers like this use a gasket
I'm really surprised how you neglected this important step.
They don't make a gasket for this tiller because I looked, that's why I left the original silicone gasket on it. The gear grease will not get hot enough to turn to liquid and leak. You don't use gear oil. Also if you leave it outside you should cover it and you shouldn't till in the rain. There is no place on this unit to add grease so you better grease it good before you put it back together.
your spacers are wrong, they should be on the underside of your chain sprockets on the drive and tine, this centers the chain in the case , your chains are not centered, the cup or concave part of the bushing will face the sprockets and the flat side will have a washer in between ,,
I thought so too, but when I put it together it made it so tight that it locked up the drive wheels. I had to take it apart several times to get it right. I finally went to the manual and this is how it showed to install them and it worked. Thanks for the info.
im rebuilding a craftsman 917 14", same troubles, locked up detant lever. ok, where in the world do i find the spring and ball ?
Go to Sears Parts and put in your model #
@@LonnieJohnson1 thank you, after disassembly, it was the swing arm seized, detant thing was fine. tiller runs great.your video gave me courage to take the task on. thanks !
Cool!...glad this could help.
@@LonnieJohnson1 No bueno
What are u talking about
Is there any other option to greeze or us gear oil in new cub cadet ....
You can try to use heavy gear oil but you will have to drill a fill hole with a cap for it and then it could leak back out the seams, or you could drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk and just add more grease.
where would you drill the hole?@@LonnieJohnson1
I would put a grease zerk at top close to shifter area where it can flow downward. You can put them where ever you think it will do the most good and you can put more than one. The best thing to do is to keep it out of the weather.
What kind of grease are you using?
Supertech Multi-Duty Complex Grease in a 1 lb can. Cost $4.99 at Walmart
Can you put a grease fitting in the side?
You can but it's easier to open the cap and just pump grease down in it.
@@LonnieJohnson1 it has a cap
Should be a little round rubber cap on the side.
I'm looking for it but don't see it, maybe it was a different model I worked on, but you should be able to do put a grease fitting in it or drill a hole and put a plug or a grommet in it to seal it back up. I would put it up high and watch where you drill.
@@LonnieJohnson1 the one I have is a husky it the same as the cub I have had it for 10 or 11 years it has not give any trouble but I have never let it get wet I keep it in the dry
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