building the long travel full independent suspension dual engine go kart part 5
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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The parts I used in this video:
V-tread front tires
bit.ly/2MGCLLE
V-tread rear tires
bit.ly/2BrCVCu
8"wheel rims
bit.ly/2wbtEbR
live axle hubs
bit.ly/2OQLrwH
1" axles
bit.ly/2MGN2ry
axle bearing kit
bit.ly/2wbAazf
brake disks & calipers
bit.ly/2Byanay
brake disk mounting hub
bit.ly/2vT2Zkq
engine mount
bit.ly/2ByaZNo
torque converters
bit.ly/2MwC9Zd
rear shock assembly
bit.ly/2MX6L6s
front shock assembly
bit.ly/2vWplSe
steering wheel
bit.ly/2BqsqPM
steering kit
bit.ly/2OS7HGz
engine performance kit
bit.ly/2MyzDS1
headers
bit.ly/2OLwaNu
mufflers
bit.ly/2MyB17b
driver seat
bit.ly/2MmUOXT
Music by Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsou...)
its badass but would be way better with bigger tires and would add ground clearance
I agree only thing i can think and a tcase for 4×4 but it wouldent even be a gokart anymore
Think about sway bars if you pick up more speed....love it
Congratulations on reaching this point of the build! That suspension articulation through the ditch was awesome, well done! One suggestion before you hit the off-road park: Try testing this with only one engine running. Obviously it won't do very well...but when you're out on a trail alone after blowing up one of those modified Predators, it would be nice to know you can at least limp home without needing a tow. Keep up the GREAT work!
The trick to limping it back with a blown engine would be to pull the chain off the sprockets for the wheel with the blown engine although it would only be a one wheel wonder it would be better than dragging what remains of the driveline
@@dodgeme1986truck My god you're insufferable. This is the 4th comment I've seen from you where you flaunt your "extensive knowledge". No one cares how much you supposedly know.
@@dodgeme1986truck question: if one engine broke down, wouldnt the chain without removing it from the broken engine simply free wheel the driven clutch on the broken engine side? It is after all not a direct drive to the engine itself but runs through a drive clutch. Yes it would rob a tiny amount of power to freewheel the the driven Clutch and belt, but it would be slipping on the Drive Clutch and would not be much resistance to over come.
@@johntingle455 unfortunately no there is actually alot of resistance and you could end up with a situation like cars and cameras did where the belt doubled over into the drive clutch locking the wheel solid ex. My mini dozer weighing only 1k lbs. I built... when I had to flat tow it (one of the transmission shafts bent when the ripper caught a massive unseen buried boulder that the dozer tracks were directly over)... while pulling with the final drives intact ended up spinning my 1 ton trucks tires (4×4) weighing 7.6k lbs. However after disengaging the final drives was able to be pulled with a little dodge dakota(4×2) >2k lbs.
The reasoning behind this is parasitic gain (basically the opposite of parasitic loss) for ex. Let's say the driven clutch weighs 4 lbs... the final drive ratio being 4:1... and the tire being 24" dia. Let's say the tire is generating 1 ft lb. Of torque when you push the vehicle. Now that 1 ft lb. Has to try to overcome frictional gains but not only that but try to start the 4 lb. Flywheel (driven clutch) spinning at 4 times the tires rotating speed... let's say for simplicity reasons with the frictional losses the combined parasitic gain is 5:1 (500%) that means you need 20 lbs of force continuously applied to spin the driven clutch. With a parasitic peak at the point when you attempt to start moving you could be looking at forces as high as 25 ft. lbs. of force needed every time you attempt to start moving. Now by removing the final drive you eliminate the 4 lbs. of driven clutch as well as the parasitic torque acquired by the 1:4 ratio (gets reversed because input and output flip rolls when the tire is used to drive everything) when trying to spin the driven clutch. So with the final drive removed you end up only trying to spin the tire.
Awesome machine. The only suggestion I have is to increase the height of the wheel/tire. The rear sprockets are very close to touching the ground under articulation. Plus it would just look way better. They appear drastically under sized for the vehicle.
Yeah maybe he can just build a guard
Gerald....if I'm not mistaken. The sprockets get no closer to the ground under articulation or not...he could pehaps put on larger wheel and tire combos or just larger tires to increase the distance of the sprokets from the ground. But that new distance would be constant as well and would not change under articulation.
@@johntingle455 they do get closer to the ground under articulation as an example take a ruler, board or just about anything about a foot long hold one end about a foot off the ground that's the tire side...turn the bar on the opposite end (sprocket end) up and down keeping the tire end stationary. As you will note the sprocket end gets closer to the ground. This is the effect that is taking place when the suspension articulates especially when he was crossing the ditch or when the vehicle leaned while turning there was significantly high movement that moved both sideways and up and down and if you hit an obstacle during this movement you could end up shattering the brake rotors/ sprockets, bending the axle shafts, breaking a hub or rim, and/or destroying the bearings.
I wish some company would build an actual 3 or 4 speed gear box for these with a clutch...
nothing saying you cant use a motorcycle transmission there are some that are not attached to the engine
@@drewalsup9200 yep, they exist.
@@drewalsup9200 I'll certainly look into that....thanks for that...
They are out there, they come with a 2-3k price tag
Vent your gas cap! Great job making this too!
I wonder about that too, nipple and a tube in the cap, simple. All engines seem to have it for a reason, fuel goes out air goes in or it creates a vacuum and fuel flow problems. Nice build, he sure has developed some awesome skills over the past few years.
don't you need a hole in the fuel cap, to prevent a vacuum?
It has one on the tip of the cap
@Keegan Browning yes it is to prevent vacuum from being drawn on the fuel tank which will stop the gravity feed fuel flow. Even though it's actually referred to as a vent port it's 2 primary purposes are to vent pressure from the fuel tank and to prevent creating a vacuum in the fuel tank as the fuel leaves the tank however he may need to increase its size/quantity due to 2 engines effectively creating twice the fuel demand resulting in a higher rate of vacuum buildup in the tank at all engine rpms that the vent port needs to bleed off. And there are maximum volumetric flow rates for a given hole size.
Captian Obvious has taken yet another RUclips comment joke (followed by slow clap)
@@doodlebug6833 I was only asserting the prior posting was in a sense wrong and misleading as I could probably teach basic engine and carburetion 101 and crater the avg. "Mechanic's" mind with knowledge overflow in my sleep (my background being what it is) Hell I've probably forgotten more about engines and carburetors than most "mechanics" have ever even learned. Hell I rebuilt my first non running engine and carburetor back to an optimized running engine when I was 5. And by 3rd grade I was stumping and baffling my teachers because the books I was reading were college lvl books on theories of internal combustion engines and fully understood what I was reading.
Edwin Russell took the words right out of my mouth. Yo that rear suspension looks dope when you’re turning, it also looks like it rides like a Cadillac nice job!
Add 2 more engines... :D 4 wheel drive 4 engine build!
Overkill
Cars and Cameras already dood it.
I have a couple of project ideas that cars and camera's hasn't done.
and he needs to make the front tiers with the same independent suspension!
Iam Lonefrog ratherbwelding would make a way better version tho
yeah your engine issue is because your fuel tank needs to breath. you have 2 engine causing a vacuum on 1 tank. adding a vent in the fuel cap will fix your issues!
very possibly starving and mostly at idle.
Wonder if he should use bigger fuel line
I think this cart has enough justification to put a lot of camber on the wheels. There was a lot of leaning on the car in a turn.
or a seatbelt..
front rear torsion/sway bars would do, but too large can detract from easy articulation. still might be nice to ditch about half of that body roll.
Time to paint
From a business aspect I understand the dragging these builds out sooo far but from a viewer aspect it's so damn frustrating
And the fuel tank made of steel will not rust?
Might... Just keep the tank filled to the top :)
He can coat it
He needs to use a product called Red-kote. You can pick it up at your local parts store. It's good enough he wouldn't have needed to pressure test and fix the pin holes. Most steel tanks are coated and he's not learned from past tanks he's made that have plugged up his carburetors. Also take note, no fuel filters again... He's not a bad fabricator but he's no mechanic.
josh absolutely about a couple fuel filters, and I've used tank cream is about same as red-kote you're describing, very good stuff!
Kream is one of the most hated products out there. I don't know if it's because it sucks or because people don't use it correctly. I've had to remove it from a couple of tanks due to peeling and rust under the coating. I've used red-kote and like it. I've heard that it doesn't do well with ethanol gas though.
You need a vent in the gas tank. That could be why your engines are dying. Also you need to run fuel filters.
Take the carbs all apart and clean them. Watch youtube videos on cleaning Predator carbs, watch a lot of them. Each one is different but in the end you will see what needs to be done. Your rear sprockets and brake discs are low to the ground. They can hit a rock or tree stump while riding trails. Bigger diameter tires will help but then you loose low end grunt and gain high end speed. Jack shafts and gear reduction can correct that. It looks like you are learning more with each each build and mistakes made on them. Doing research on other builds before you try to reinvent the wheel will help in getting things right or better the first time.
It also looks like it leans a lot in turns, might need sway or anti-roll bars...
Yeah if your engines aren't idling properly and they been sitting outside for quite a while check your idler jet they probably have some trash in them not letting enough air flow through the engine to idle
You need a small hole to relieve pressure in the gas tank
A vent line certainly wouldn't hurt.
Has to have a vent.
The cap probably doesn't have a seal on it
love the metal roller
I wonder if it's homemade.
Most likely the idle channels in the carbs are dirty. Nothing a generous blast of compressed air can't fix. Have you considered installing an anti-sway bar for the front axle?
No such thing as too much power. And i highly doubt 2 212's overwhelms that heavy cart with power. Don't be a sissy😂, put bigger engines on it and taller tires. 👌
Your fuel cap isn't vented. Will cause some issues with the way the engine(s) run.
yep...still looks like a SpiderKart to me...and the red and black already on it...Spiderman theme would be sweet..lol..
one of you talented folks needs to make a building montage in the style of thr A-team with the music :D
Have you looked into proper long travel atv shocks
What do you do for your main job? Welders in the industrial setting make great money and you look like you clearly have the potential to do well there. Aside from the mechanical creativity I'm impressed with the metal work! :)
yeah I was gonna say you might need to make sure that fuel cap is vented and it could help the engine problems
Love the rear suspension, Great job!
My new homemade electric off road bike
i dont think thats gocart more of a rock crawler look at the flex in the back😂😂
I hate how the front wheels are further apart than the rear
It's hard to stretch the back maybe wheel spacers
Good thing it’s his then
I have a similar plan. love the narrower wheel spread in the rear
All performances sxs are narrower in the rear. NASCAR as well lol
You have a great design here. Suspension is awesome, but way too weak. You need stronger springs / stiffer suspension, then it won't lean so damn much when you make a turn and won't sag so much when you're on it. Right now it rides about as high as one of you're normal builds when you add you're own weight to that of the frame. Plus you can see in the video that the front wheel base is much wider than the back, which may cause issues later on down the road. Great work. Can't wait to see where this goes. Also wondering if you ever sell these, or sell the plans with a complete parts list and prices...
the softness can be nice, body roll not so much... I'm thinking a rear torsion/sway bar, maybe 1/2" diameter, mounted behind seat with it's arms reaching back left/right. big simple i_.__._i shape (dots being connect points)
The pitch and roll of it isn't bad, it's just a bit too much. I would take the front shocks off, put doubles of the rear shocks up front, then put doubles in the back as well. Doing that should stiffen it up quite a bit and still keep the same pitch and roll ability it currently has.
Good video you should put a little looser suspension on the front cuz it seems like it's a little too tight
If somebody asked me before you build it, I would have said that the difference in engine performance would steer this thing constantly to one side. I am glad to see I would have been wrong and it's not such a big issue. Great build. Keep it up :)
I think the torque converters allow slipping of the belts to make up for the issue.
Nice 👍👌
Really nice build, it really has a lot going for it there are a few things I think are a bit off on it but not worth mentioning, it is an awesome ride.
The unsprung mass of such assembly will become an issue at higher speeds and more dynamic maneuvering / demanding terrain...Still its fun to experiment with such things!
Looks bad a$#
Red-kote that tank now! Or let it deteriorate and cause nothing but problems in the future.
josh bishop cause steel tanks in automobiles were never used right?
@@danstankowski654 more modern tanks were all coated inside, with the ethanol in today's fuels you can't get away with a raw steel tank, old enough cars or cars where the coatings have deteriorated need their tanks sealed or replaced unless you want to constantly battle clogged filters and warn out fuel pumps.
Yo I'm loving the look of this whole machine it looks really aggressive already. Patiently awaiting the the mods video bro.
Be blessed Jah Rastafari Selassie I Jah
Did you put a vent on the tank?
Get some bigger tire on that thing looks a bit silly will also give much more ground clearance
Great job Chris! Way to think outside the Box!
That thing is like a Tarantula. That thing would rock on the sand dunes but it's super wide stance might hinder it on narrow dirt/rock trails.
Very nice mini buggy! I love the articulation it gets on uneven surfaces.
You are Go Power Sports one and only hope 😉
So much unsprung weight.... Might be too much surgery for this build, but I wonder how much bigger a ninja 250 motor is vs what you have now. Or a Savage 650/ KLR/ Buell Blast....
Take my money..!!!!!! That is saaweeet!!! Looks like it'd be great for rock crawling.🤙🤙🤙🔥🔥
Thos thing is f'n awesome. Seeing them suspension work independently was great and the aggressive look is great.
Freaking awesome... dude, if you'r ever in need of a liver, I got you brother...
Huh? What's that..... oh you built one!!!🤔
It need to pass the Ryan test, then it's done!
If you want to triple your views.... add 2 engines on the front wheels as well. Go WAAYYYY over the top. I'll subscribe.
All I can say is it's sick bro ,hands down the coolest build yet ,I think you'll have trouble topping this one ,love the suspension travel ,👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍🙏
I wish you could come over Brother I need to make a Gas tank for my first mini bike ....... You gotta get a pair of those tellason 212 there cheaper Stock 10BHP
God dam I wish you lived in Indianapolis so I could give you $60 dollars per hour to work for me Installing onyx showers...no bullshit...move here bud
Maybe check out the Tillotson 212s? Theyre not much more than a standard 212 but come with a few nice upgrades www.gopowersports.com/212cc-tillotson-hemi-engine/
Youll really want some better, taller, wider, and more aggressive rear tires though, or youll just be carving two ditches in any soft dirt or mud.
So fucking cool, I don't often compliment people but that is a work of art, I love karts and buggies but never thought of building a rear like that, you could build a seriously cool rock climber
Rather B Splaining: Not so bad in this video but holy schmolly do you ever repeat yourself like a lot to the point where it happens way too much in the form of overkill where I hear you saying the same stuff over and over and just when you think its done you reiterate what was already previously mentioned beforehand just like 42 seconds ago before just having said it already again and again. To be sure... you can be just a bit redundant... and stuff... like to the point where it becomes distracting... like an icepick in the ear... where it just tickles the edge of your brain... and it hurts... to the point of madness... which makes me afraid to tune in again... I'm not sure I did a great job of explaining that but... you know what I mean... whatever.
That articulation is exceptional, the spring rates look about right though the geometry of the rear seems to raise it substantially on acceleration - might be useful in the field. I'm sure youll find the any problems with damper rates in field testing. The dual drive is a marvel - no diffs, and it creates a drive system completely controlled by the driver (you need two accelerator pedals, or some mechanism to alter power distribution). Very impressive Mr. B! Other commentators have mentioned vacuum in the tank...I'm sure you'll sort out the problem, but both engines dying indicates a common cause...like vacuum in tank or the need for baffles in the tank. Thanks for a great video and series.
Honestly those 212s are fine if anything replace carbs. Upgrade tomikumi or clone of or atv style bet it will give more fluid power delivery throughout powerband. Gopowerdports has few options. No need put 200$ in stock engines. U can wrench fine so y not upgrade
Awesome job sir. Absolutely love it, that suspension looks like it makes it comfortable to ride as well.
Whoa...that front suspension is way too long bro. Shorten it by 12". You certainly could use a better turning radius. ;O)
Who wants to see see some highly modified 212's like gps stage 4's or hr racing complete race ready 212's on this build???
I give you a lot of respect for your build but the engines should go for a better faster like a cbr600 or a Kawasaki600 you know what I’m saying
No the 620’s r not to much....the buggy can handle it with easy and the torque n power would be so awesome......nothing better than a wicked buggy ......if them side by sides can handle it that buggy can with easy.....nothing better than more power,if its not bringing the front wheels off the ground then its not to much power
Let me just start by saying you really outdid yourself the way all four of them Wheels stayed on the ground was freaking astonishing to me (dual engines I don't know) but then again I also don't know how you would have such travel with just one engine.( great job keep it up I'm definitely going to follow you from now on that thing is amazing you should go four-wheel drive next because with that same type of chassis nothing would stop you
Cool go cart. If I was going to make a cart would put a Yamaha R6 or a gsxr engine. Or even a bigger cc snowmobile engine would be cool and quick and make a piranha style buggy with long travel suspension
I truly love it I'm your biggest fan of this build should paint it with black and red weld on the nose plate paint it Black with red writing saying the yard predator!!! With a small predator face in vinyl decals wouldn't cost more than 20 bucks
Why don’t people put on front brakes?? They do 70-80% of the braking on 4 wheeled machines
Your kindergarten rear suspension is quite pathetic I bet all it does is bounce lol zero progression. Zero linkage. Just a huge swingarm . Notice nothing else uses that design ? Hmmmmmmm I wonder why ? And the engines move with the suspension? Honestly you need some help.
Great job bro! You are very talented! Don't worry about all the comments telling you what it needs because its obvious you know what your doing and I'm sure you will correct anything you feel necessary.
Top speed test! Are engines run in?
luv it, 👍ima say go for some dirt bike wheels and some dirtbike track driving when u can. promise u, everyones drooling @ build
My comment is based on watching this episode only (I haven't watched the others yet) - you seem to be a skilled mechanic - you can use a variety of tools and get things made and this is a big thing!
I have some reservations to the design of this gokart though:
1. the engines being attached to swing arms and effectively increasing their weight and the overall ratio of suspended to unsuspended mass - this must affect the behaviour of the suspension pretty badly - you will notice it at higher speeds (inertia of the rear suspension resulting in loss of traction and probably oversteer too),
2. the suspension arms are just simple triangles with no reinforcements - this makes them prone to flex, fatigue and damage,
3. I can see no suspension adjustment capabilities - it is hard to imagine all angles on it are right straight out of the box, without any tuning... camber, toe and shock mounting points would be the minimum and fairly easy to include - something to think about,
4. the location of the gas tank (and a pretty chunky size of it) must be affecting the cg - is there away tobput it lower? how about somewhere at the front (well beyond the bumper, so it stays relatively safe in case of a crash)? It would also improve the front/rear balance...
Pro tip: for fast accurate tack welds, turn your amperage up to 150-180 and use the trigger on the torch of possible, but if not, pedal is ok too. Then put the tungsten very close to where you want to tack, and use the strong arc for just a split second to get awesome tack welds, really fast.
I can never understand why people gear things to the moon. Speed isn't nearly as fun as going fast with a slower vehicle. Always go for torque! Cool build
And that guy with the vacuum comment is 100% correct fuel is going out air has to go in obviously you're a hell of an engineer so you should know that maybe fuel pumps I'm using speech to text so excuse my English
As explained many times you need to vent the gas tank. I think you will also find you need baffles in your tanks. On a single engine it won't do much but stop fuel slosh with the tanks mounted as high as you do. On this one I think you will find once the fuel gets low it will also starve one or the other engine. The starving engine will sputter causing it to torque steer. Helpful in turns as long as the starving engine doesn't die. A cheap and easy trick to add baffles to a built tank is to get a bucket of the plastic practice golf balls with holes in them. Stuff the tank full of them through the filler.
I think I'd also look into cutting brakes on the rear. Hydro hand brake for each side (mech would even work). Lock up one rear wheel, turn the steering to that side, give it gas, and it'll turn on a dime. With it's width will be helpful on tight wooded trails.
Dude it’s so awesome you make pretty much all of the parts you need. Hope the hurricane didn’t hit you too bad.
Oh man thats nasty! I bet some larger wheels would do wonders for clearance and to slow wheel speed a bit, seems like you're barely touching that throttle!! Haha should have read comments first, everyone always says go big or go home!!😯🐥
How to actually fucking die: take a shot for every "this thing" "fiiinalllly" and "awesome"
for the next time, to soften up a suspension, u dont need to buy softer shocks Always, if you put the shocks under a angle, like 45 degrees, it will soften the suspension with almost 50%, try it, easiest way to adjust a suspension, love the work tho
Great job, I wish I had a friend like you. I would go with bigger tires though.
It’s the gas cap your using that’s why their not running right. The fuel tank needs to breath. If you can’t find a gas cap for it maybe try fabricating a one way check valve system somewhere around the filler neck. Instead of using it for fluid to pass threw it you can use it for air to pass threw it. It will suck air into the tank but won’t let gas splash back out ya know what I mean?
I think you need wider and bigger tires on the back and you should mod your existing engines. They are probably having carburetor problems. If you and replacing them with upgraded carbs then you are eliminating the issue
nice job. your caster is negative so when you go left your tire leans right you need positive caster go right tire leans right move your bottom control arms forward if you like I'll explain it there's other ways to adjust it if want help let me know thanks
Wow that is so cool. Maybe you could cut some weight with the floor part. Very cool that you made the gas tank but you could cut some wait there with a plastic or aluminum 2. It looks very heavy definitely need more power hopefully your mods give you enough. Very awesome build
Red faction guerrilla had a truck that had a similar suspension lol. Never thought it was possibly
This thing is awesome. It needs to go to red beards and jump the driveway haha
Taller tires wouldn’t hurt
I been following on ur projects and man u have some mad skills I love working on my own projects and I have learned some stuff
What about a single more powerful engine such as a motorcycle engine mounted on the chassis with the rear suspension pivot acting as a jack shaft. Then just run a chain to each rear wheel independently. Then you could get all your gear reduction out of the way on the chassis and put small sprockets down by the wheels to improve ground clearance. Oh and some taller skinnier tires would look awesome too.
You should find some CV-Axles and add another engine on the front and make it all wheel drive. It would be cool if you can pull it off.
Why is there more Space between the front tires than the Back tires. I Think ik looks at bit Odd But Else Its at cool gocart. I Think you should put the tilitson engines on instead
You should replace the engines with 250cc 2stroke dirtbike motors. Put a recluse clutch on each motor.
Are you sure the idle issue isn't due to too much vacuum(not enough venting) in the tank preventing the gas from properly flowing to the carbs
Why is it that you don't weld with a jacket on? Let alone something to cover your sleeves? Is it too hot or uncomfortable for you?
I'm just wondering
You should put some predator 301’s, not as crazy as a 670 but a little more kick than a 212
It really needs a pair of two-stroke engines on it. Two KX250 engines would be a decent choice.
I don't know if you vented the gas tank, but vent the gas tank if you didn't. It might help with your engines running poorly.
Yep. needs a tank vent. had vac and pressure problems until I did. Mine has a pump so it would over pressure the carb. then after making a return line, vacuum problems kart would die. Mostly at idle. ruclips.net/video/7b9FUNGu70A/видео.html
Before you replace the engines because they won't idle try taking the carbs apart and cleaning them. If they set for a year the low speed/idle circuit of the carb maybe clogged.
But if you are going to stage 3 the engines anyway, then the carbs will be replaced at that time...
Awesome job my only two suggestions you really need skidplates to protect the rear undercarriage under each motor and number 2 if you'll add side mirrors that can be extended out when backing up and that can fold in when going through areas that could impact your mirrors great build