I love the episodes where you get to ask each other "what would look good for this kind of piece?" 1) It gets a bunch of people involved 2) You always bring up the woodworking/engineering process design aspects of it 3) Hopefully it means nothing else in the shop is experiencing a disaster, otherwise the video would be about that :P
As a junior architect, I have found that instead of working around the obstacle, making it a feature of design and incorporating it into the design works way better (regarding the topper situation). You could keep the current configuration of toppers and make some cool designs around the seams and it´ll look amazing.
Like at each split, a shield on one side and a sword on the other. The shield could even be a logo shield, however, that might be a bit much since the logo is classically on the runner.
Simplest solution to the toppertunity: Make the toppers an Odd number of pieces (either 3 or 5). This puts all the vertices inside a panel. And it puts the center in a single panel.
Tables in use often have a centerpiece (flower vase, etc). A fan design helps whatever you put on it *pop*. You could also get your fabric shop involved and put together a magnetic runner.
Matt, I don't think you understand how importantly critical the Pentel p209 is. Engineers, draftsmen, architect, designers, the p200 series from Pentel is like an industry standard for 'relaible' pencils.
Taste is suggestive. I personally would hate a giant brand in anywhere on anything I own. Specially on a play/eating surface that is meant to be clean and uncluttered before putting stuff on it.
Was thinking the same thing a perfect place for a minimal version of the shield, like in silver outline. For fully custom options some people might want to inlay a family crest. The hex table just screams for a large design in the center
You could do the "design around the seam" in each corner, two halves that don't reach the line to the center. Just imagine there are seems from each corner to the middle and design around them.
Use a split corner design. Each shape is symmetrical across the corner with a gap in the middle which would work for the seams at the two corners. Depending on the proportionsof the design, you can either get 1: a nice highlight at each corner, 2: a longer shape will give more of a border feel around the table, or 3: a taller shape which will give you more of a radial feel toward the center.
Okay guys, let me cook. Remember those awesome hex vaults with the bug and bumblebee inlays? Do that but bigger and put it right in the middle! "But there is a seam!" I hear you say. Make the topper five parts instead of four! Cut a semi-circle out of each of the big topper parts so you have a hole in the center of the table and slab your awesome wood art piece right in there! You could even do a hex in hex. Doesn't have to be a circle. Obviously nobody could pay for a table like this but who knows maybe Bill Gates suddenly start getting into table top gaming...
@@nSnowCrow well it's not sagging now so removing a bit should not make a difference. Also you could Inlay the center piece instead of make an actual hole... You have to want this man.
I love these episodes. It's really interesting to see the process. I also like Doug's approach of building mock ups (take ply wood paint it dark, use construction paper etc). Computer models often mislead as you often look at it from angles you don't actually see IRL
For the topper, I would suggest using the seam instead of trying to pretend it's not there. Have the larger motifs on the solid corners, and a variation where you have two smaller ones on either side of the corner seam. The smaller ones are each self contained, but together they read as related to the larger one. It's similar to your pokeball design, but more triangular.
I think the split doesn’t even have to match the others in design. I think it should be a wyrmwood logo shield on one side of the seam, and a sword on the other. The other 4 corners of the hex just “generic.” And leave the center alone.
Hex table top design idea: Go with the corner design idea, but make the design a vertical reflection of itself. That was each of the designs would match, even across the broken up toppers.
Is there a reason you couldn't just come up with a corner design that incorporates a split/gap in the center. Ends would have the full design on two corners, the middles would have only the half design on two corners where they meet up. Just make room for the seam in the design. It's the same idea proposed for some of the center/border designs, but it seems like you never came back to the corners after noting that two of the corners have seams.
Guys it’s wild no one thought to have a big version of the Wyrmwood logo in the middle since that would default work in the hexagon. Also my idea for the hexagon table is to put something on the 4 corners that aren’t the 2 at the seem in the middle or put the same design on EVERY corner but put a gap in it so that the gap from the seem doesn’t look that out of place.
In-set a big shield/design into the middle of the topper that is symmetrical and can be removed. Or maybe it could be round-shaped and also act as a lazy Susan that sits into the topper 1/4 of an inch. Form meets function baby!
I think moving the seams of the toppers so they themselves are weird but the pattern can be uninterrupted perfection fits the signature series vibe very well. And then you can make a cool signature topper block to house the new weird shaped toppers
You can design in the corner, just make it mirrored split in two. On another note, I wonder if it's possible to skive a burl in a spiral to get a long strip of it.
"If you people are interested" "I don't think they are" You'd be surprised the things that other craftsman are interested in, lol. I prefer the Pentel Graphgear myself.
Lean in to the center split by putting a large compass rose in the middle - the kind where the cardinal directions have a central line in the spike and use the burl along with another wood to shade it! Outline it in silver.
Make the topper from five pieces. The end pieces stay the same, just narrower. If each piece is ten inches wide right now, make them eight inches wide so that the center piece covers the longest distance on the table but is wide enough that the disign for the corners can both be put onto the one center piece and the design can be put on the two end pieces with the other two pieces being without the design feature.
Put a hex design on the toppers. Based on what the DM screen actually looks like - with the raised middle and burl+silver. You could do the hex on just the two middle toppers so you only have to cross the middle seam instead of all 3.
you can still do the corner idea on the toppers, but split the design in half so that the split corners work, and use that same split design for the regular corners too.
the leg burl inlay length should be rule of 3rds but with an equidistant border and silver trim around to frame it, the inlay should also have a slight taper to an edged point and at the top of the inlay it should be a wide angle to a point. that way the inlay is also a hex shape
I would fixture all the toppers together and route out the lines all at once across all the boards. Then it’ll line up perfectly and you could do a lot of cool details that cross the gaps. Then just number each topper on the bottom so the customer knows which order to put them in.
when you started to draw in the centre of the toppers all i could see was an Imperial Cog. a one off Star Wars Empire themed hex table would look amazing.
I would almost just suggest a solid color topper, option of either wenge or oak, and the reverse color shown on the chamfer. The apron, interior, and legs already give those pops
A while back you mentioned possibly making a "hex" table that was longer. Essentially an MTG but with hex end caps instead of a basic rectangle. Is this still in the works? Due to the shape of our dining room the normal MGT doesn't really fit, and the basic Hex table only seats 6 (we have 7 for D&D, so we need to seat the standard 8 dining table size). I can't imagine there are not tons of other people in my situation, where a slightly longer hex that allowed 2 to sit on the long sides, and 1 each on the short sides, would fit much more ideally in their house.
I feel like the toppers should do what the GM screen does. Have an oak core and wenge veneer, so you get a beautiful dark table top and the chamfer gives a strip or white around the edges. A pattern in the middle sounds too busy
The best way to fix the topper block problem is to have every panel say Pooz on it individually. That way you don't have to worry about them lining up with eachother.
you'd have to change it to a 3 piece topper for summitry of corners and flats. The challenge is then making your box/cube for 3 pieces and the weight of a 3 top might be a bit much?
Yeah, I've been thinking about the cheap 🪱🪵 table, made with construction plywood, low price 2x4s and broken down pallets. Your popsicle stick idea is poifeck for it🫠
A large marquetry starburst pattern of burl and a darker wood cut in half between the two panels. Can make it almost the length of the burl samples you have.
I think having a design over the corners is a lot less problematic than in the middle of the sides, because at least the middle of the corner aligns with the seam, unlike the edge seams.
Wicked idea from a non-woodworker. Two different types of toppers (tops and bottoms), actually, scratch that, one type of a topper, with left side(for example) having bottom connection and right side having top connection, six triangular shaped toppers. So they would fan out from the middle. There is a problem, that the lever would be too long, and you want to put something in the middle. I'm not smart enough to figure out a solution right now, put it's possible to work around that, imo. ._.
I wonder what it would look like for the arm rest to be like, wenge on the bottom, then a thin layer of accent on that back to a wenge veneer on top. So that the big chamfer shows wenge but that thin face piece shows the accent wood, then back to the dark wood on top.
@@UnofficialDustyn Adam is more of a creative type and loves to celebrate makers. Plus both have experience with making fun crazy things, shooting guns, blowing stuff up; there's a lot of middle ground there. Also Adam is big into letting people celebrate being themselves, which I feel he just gives off.
Doug, I respect the hat coming off. Next, invest in a trip to the barber. You don't have to go straight to a shaved head, but you can ask them to sharpen your look.
If only you had a logo that was naturally bisected with negative space down the middle... you could possibly use that negative space to put something on either side of a seam....
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
You see it as a topper problem, I see it as a toppertunity
There it is, next video's comment
Ayyyyyyyyeeeee!
Gosh dawgit
I love the episodes where you get to ask each other "what would look good for this kind of piece?"
1) It gets a bunch of people involved
2) You always bring up the woodworking/engineering process design aspects of it
3) Hopefully it means nothing else in the shop is experiencing a disaster, otherwise the video would be about that :P
As a junior architect, I have found that instead of working around the obstacle, making it a feature of design and incorporating it into the design works way better (regarding the topper situation). You could keep the current configuration of toppers and make some cool designs around the seams and it´ll look amazing.
Like at each split, a shield on one side and a sword on the other. The shield could even be a logo shield, however, that might be a bit much since the logo is classically on the runner.
Simplest solution to the toppertunity: Make the toppers an Odd number of pieces (either 3 or 5). This puts all the vertices inside a panel. And it puts the center in a single panel.
Tables in use often have a centerpiece (flower vase, etc).
A fan design helps whatever you put on it *pop*.
You could also get your fabric shop involved and put together a magnetic runner.
Matt, I don't think you understand how importantly critical the Pentel p209 is. Engineers, draftsmen, architect, designers, the p200 series from Pentel is like an industry standard for 'relaible' pencils.
A giant Wyrmwood shield in the middle of the table! You can just mirror it on the center seam. (Easy for me to say)
Don't mirror, cross the grain! Make it HUGE
Taste is suggestive. I personally would hate a giant brand in anywhere on anything I own. Specially on a play/eating surface that is meant to be clean and uncluttered before putting stuff on it.
Was thinking the same thing a perfect place for a minimal version of the shield, like in silver outline. For fully custom options some people might want to inlay a family crest. The hex table just screams for a large design in the center
.09 lead? Never seen it before! Just looked it up, wow, there are a lot more lead sizes than .05 and .07! And yes, we are interested in the pencil.
Personally, I prefer the Pentel GraphGear 1000. The metal body and the retractable head is just handy. It also comes in 0.9mm (yellow).
@@GarettHarnishthat's been my carpenter pencil for a couple years now. The 0.9mm lead is a great size.
You could do the "design around the seam" in each corner, two halves that don't reach the line to the center. Just imagine there are seems from each corner to the middle and design around them.
Use a split corner design. Each shape is symmetrical across the corner with a gap in the middle which would work for the seams at the two corners. Depending on the proportionsof the design, you can either get 1: a nice highlight at each corner, 2: a longer shape will give more of a border feel around the table, or 3: a taller shape which will give you more of a radial feel toward the center.
Yup❤
Okay guys, let me cook. Remember those awesome hex vaults with the bug and bumblebee inlays? Do that but bigger and put it right in the middle! "But there is a seam!" I hear you say. Make the topper five parts instead of four! Cut a semi-circle out of each of the big topper parts so you have a hole in the center of the table and slab your awesome wood art piece right in there! You could even do a hex in hex. Doesn't have to be a circle. Obviously nobody could pay for a table like this but who knows maybe Bill Gates suddenly start getting into table top gaming...
Yes! A marquetry topper would look INCREDIBLE! That would be the absolute coolest table out there.
How would a Hex in the middle hold itself in the air? If you cut the toppers they will sag towards the play area.
@@nSnowCrow well it's not sagging now so removing a bit should not make a difference. Also you could Inlay the center piece instead of make an actual hole... You have to want this man.
I love these episodes. It's really interesting to see the process. I also like Doug's approach of building mock ups (take ply wood paint it dark, use construction paper etc). Computer models often mislead as you often look at it from angles you don't actually see IRL
For the topper, I would suggest using the seam instead of trying to pretend it's not there. Have the larger motifs on the solid corners, and a variation where you have two smaller ones on either side of the corner seam. The smaller ones are each self contained, but together they read as related to the larger one. It's similar to your pokeball design, but more triangular.
I think the split doesn’t even have to match the others in design. I think it should be a wyrmwood logo shield on one side of the seam, and a sword on the other. The other 4 corners of the hex just “generic.” And leave the center alone.
2:37 It's the Bat Signal! Commissioner Gordon needs me!
Hex table top design idea:
Go with the corner design idea, but make the design a vertical reflection of itself. That was each of the designs would match, even across the broken up toppers.
Is there a reason you couldn't just come up with a corner design that incorporates a split/gap in the center. Ends would have the full design on two corners, the middles would have only the half design on two corners where they meet up. Just make room for the seam in the design.
It's the same idea proposed for some of the center/border designs, but it seems like you never came back to the corners after noting that two of the corners have seams.
Guys it’s wild no one thought to have a big version of the Wyrmwood logo in the middle since that would default work in the hexagon.
Also my idea for the hexagon table is to put something on the 4 corners that aren’t the 2 at the seem in the middle or put the same design on EVERY corner but put a gap in it so that the gap from the seem doesn’t look that out of place.
Every craftsman has a preferred tool. My preferred pencil is a Staedtler Mars techinco 780 lead holder.
Good pencil. I quite like the Zebra M301 0.7mm with 2B leads. Might treat myself to something fancy one day, like an IJ Instruments or something.
In-set a big shield/design into the middle of the topper that is symmetrical and can be removed. Or maybe it could be round-shaped and also act as a lazy Susan that sits into the topper 1/4 of an inch. Form meets function baby!
I think moving the seams of the toppers so they themselves are weird but the pattern can be uninterrupted perfection fits the signature series vibe very well. And then you can make a cool signature topper block to house the new weird shaped toppers
You can design in the corner, just make it mirrored split in two.
On another note, I wonder if it's possible to skive a burl in a spiral to get a long strip of it.
"If you people are interested"
"I don't think they are"
You'd be surprised the things that other craftsman are interested in, lol. I prefer the Pentel Graphgear myself.
Lean in to the center split by putting a large compass rose in the middle - the kind where the cardinal directions have a central line in the spike and use the burl along with another wood to shade it! Outline it in silver.
Make the topper from five pieces.
The end pieces stay the same, just narrower.
If each piece is ten inches wide right now, make them eight inches wide so that the center piece covers the longest distance on the table but is wide enough that the disign for the corners can both be put onto the one center piece and the design can be put on the two end pieces with the other two pieces being without the design feature.
Put a hex design on the toppers. Based on what the DM screen actually looks like - with the raised middle and burl+silver.
You could do the hex on just the two middle toppers so you only have to cross the middle seam instead of all 3.
3:38 Greene & Greene style cloudlifts would be an awesome and elegant corner detail to the banding
you can still do the corner idea on the toppers, but split the design in half so that the split corners work, and use that same split design for the regular corners too.
the leg burl inlay length should be rule of 3rds but with an equidistant border and silver trim around to frame it, the inlay should also have a slight taper to an edged point and at the top of the inlay it should be a wide angle to a point. that way the inlay is also a hex shape
I would fixture all the toppers together and route out the lines all at once across all the boards. Then it’ll line up perfectly and you could do a lot of cool details that cross the gaps.
Then just number each topper on the bottom so the customer knows which order to put them in.
Has there been any more news on the Australian MGT Kickstarter?
when you started to draw in the centre of the toppers all i could see was an Imperial Cog. a one off Star Wars Empire themed hex table would look amazing.
I would almost just suggest a solid color topper, option of either wenge or oak, and the reverse color shown on the chamfer. The apron, interior, and legs already give those pops
An easy solution for a signature series topper is triangles, if you want the corners then squares, just break it up into 6 even symmetrical pieces
I'd love to have the topper just have a nice fancy big wyrmwood logo in the center.
you should inlay a compass rose design in the middle. or the wider uninterrupted border would imo look cool.
I still wonder when we get the stretch hex option. Hex ends but regular table length, or extendable like a classic dining room table with leaves.
A while back you mentioned possibly making a "hex" table that was longer. Essentially an MTG but with hex end caps instead of a basic rectangle. Is this still in the works? Due to the shape of our dining room the normal MGT doesn't really fit, and the basic Hex table only seats 6 (we have 7 for D&D, so we need to seat the standard 8 dining table size). I can't imagine there are not tons of other people in my situation, where a slightly longer hex that allowed 2 to sit on the long sides, and 1 each on the short sides, would fit much more ideally in their house.
I would like to see a wyrmwood shield in the centre of the table. 🛡️
A round shield variation of the wyrmwood shield would be very cool. 🤔
I feel like the toppers should do what the GM screen does. Have an oak core and wenge veneer, so you get a beautiful dark table top and the chamfer gives a strip or white around the edges. A pattern in the middle sounds too busy
The best way to fix the topper block problem is to have every panel say Pooz on it individually. That way you don't have to worry about them lining up with eachother.
Banding around the aprons, large sheild design in center two toppers with center seam removed as per design.
you'd have to change it to a 3 piece topper for summitry of corners and flats. The challenge is then making your box/cube for 3 pieces and the weight of a 3 top might be a bit much?
A map/compass rose would look so good in the centre with burl wood
Poor Hunter has to turn this madness into something? Hilarious
I want popsicle stick as a wood choice for the inlay. It could be the opposite of Signature Series.
Yeah, I've been thinking about the cheap 🪱🪵 table, made with construction plywood, low price 2x4s and broken down pallets. Your popsicle stick idea is poifeck for it🫠
A large marquetry starburst pattern of burl and a darker wood cut in half between the two panels. Can make it almost the length of the burl samples you have.
Middle of the table design could really cook.
Go with six triangular/wedge toppers, and add a removable support in the center of the table
Now I want a pokemon themed hex table with different gym inserts to have a battleground changing like in the pokemon championship
@9:40 Huh? I don't get it. Why aren't panels 2 and 3 interchangeable? They should be exactly the same shape, right?
Psyduck has been my fav since the late 90's. He doesn't get the love he deserves.
I think having a design over the corners is a lot less problematic than in the middle of the sides, because at least the middle of the corner aligns with the seam, unlike the edge seams.
what about a wymwood shield in the middle of the table split between the two sides with silver stringing centered with the burel?
@2:36 Wu-Tang is forever
Thanks for yesterday's KS update!! So excited to get these Gyroids!!!
Wicked idea from a non-woodworker.
Two different types of toppers (tops and bottoms), actually, scratch that, one type of a topper, with left side(for example) having bottom connection and right side having top connection, six triangular shaped toppers. So they would fan out from the middle.
There is a problem, that the lever would be too long, and you want to put something in the middle. I'm not smart enough to figure out a solution right now, put it's possible to work around that, imo. ._.
That's a beautiful OSBurl GM screen
What a compass rose for center
Chair back insert at end of vid needs space at the top to be the same as the space on either side
Why don't you take that seem into account when doing the corners of the hex? Like how dug drew the centered design but repeat in the corners
I wonder what it would look like for the arm rest to be like, wenge on the bottom, then a thin layer of accent on that back to a wenge veneer on top. So that the big chamfer shows wenge but that thin face piece shows the accent wood, then back to the dark wood on top.
somehow it doesn't save my commentary....
what about inlays like with the dicevaults? eg flower and/or insects? or doesn't that work on a topperscale?
Late to the upload, but a Wyrmwood logo vertically split along the center seam of that hex table would be *sick*
I like the way that toper is made from a bunch of cut offs. . what if they were random instead of all the same wood like a patchwork.
HUNTER CAN GET IT!
Jason out here designing Gyroid toppers.
"Right there" looks best I think 🤔
Make the toppers its simple. Have 6 edge pieces then a keystone center piece.
15:18. Preferred.
If y'all are avoiding a 3x120 degree rhomboid toppers, I'm sure a pizza box doll table can be fancied up to keep the center from collapsing!
Just bought my first mechanical pencil today for the shed and i was curious what size lead people use so good to know hahaha
Is it possible to use brass or bronze instead of silver?
Best show on RUclips
Just do the topper corners with a gap as if each corner had a line. Center design doesn’t look great.
. . . Make it a radially expanding Root? Like. of a tree? And use the seam as Wyrmwood Blade? To make it into a Wyrmwood logo theme symbol?
What about not touching the top of the topper and putting burrow (?) on the bevel? The Hex is already fun and eye-catching.
Bevel is upside down so it would not really be seen very well unless you mean the bevel on the topper.
We are interested! Ask Adam Savage.
Savage builds meets Crazy Ed would, I think be hilarious
@@TheNeojanus1nah Ed’s feelings got hurt by Doug in the throne episode. He would hate Adam Savage I bet. No way Adam wouldn’t say some stuff.
Papermate Sharpwriter #2!
@@UnofficialDustyn did he? Doug’s comments were totally reasonable.
@@UnofficialDustyn Adam is more of a creative type and loves to celebrate makers. Plus both have experience with making fun crazy things, shooting guns, blowing stuff up; there's a lot of middle ground there. Also Adam is big into letting people celebrate being themselves, which I feel he just gives off.
Doug, I respect the hat coming off. Next, invest in a trip to the barber. You don't have to go straight to a shaved head, but you can ask them to sharpen your look.
Ian, where do you get your pencil?
Dude, P209 is my go-to shop pencil.
A table to match my DM screen?…I might need a table now…
The P209 is great, but the PG529 is where its at.
Make sand shading in the seems so that it looks like it goes below the seem!!!!
I'm definitely interested in the pencil
Patterns not blocks?
Put the tree in the center, big logo
Tell Ian, I am interested in his pencil. Has he tried the PG1019?
Make Wyrmlyfe great again, bring back dailys!
If only you had a logo that was naturally bisected with negative space down the middle... you could possibly use that negative space to put something on either side of a seam....
Ian was right. People care, and the P209 is an excellent choice.
All I want to know is: how does Ian wearing his pencil that way not constantly poke him in the neck?
METALLIC INLAY LOGO!
😢 Miss seeing Poppa Pooz and crew weekly
"How do you fix the topper problem?"
With fire... lots of fire...
Why not the Wyrmshield in the middle of the toppers? it is SIGNATURE Series
Day #9 of me putting out there a challenge to Doug for card throwing 😊...love the new possible designs
Right.... THERE!
What happened to "bussiness dressed doug" :P
It's hot bro
I think Doug is right about the leg accent. Jason has gone off the deep end.
OMG is that the PENTEL 209!
STOP ACTING LIKE YOU CARE!