Might be usefull to add the information that - depending on the position of the camshaft and the tension or grade of wear - the chain might skip when you remove the tensioner, which might pretty well result in a capital engine failure afterwards. Therefore Kawasaki has special marks for crankshaft and camshaft-position BEFORE work on or remove the tensioner. Almost all vids here on RUclips lack this information as well as the one, that to much tension might pretty well lead to damages on the rails of the timing chain and/or the teething of the pinions of the chain. Cheap repair of clacking-sounds with pretty expensive following costs....
There is about 100+ people who have installed reinstalled the tensioner without TDC AND have no problems. Unless the crank decides to rotate which would be hard when the tires is on the ground I’ve only heard of one person who has catastrophic issues and that was because his back wheel was up when he did and the crank moved when he removed the tensioner
One thing I found out , if you're going to pull the spark plug tubes out . you're going to need a 27 millimeter tool, to pull that out.... they are very expensive to try to buy. but if you look on eBay , you can get a 27 mm hex timing tool for a Porsche. They are 18 bucks with shipping and handling . and they work perfect ..... they fit right in the tube and you can put a ratchet on them. rather than paying 60 or $70 for the tool, or a 47 mm allen wrench ... this is a cheaper way to go . and you'll have a tool to do the job anytime you want in your toolbox for $20...... YOU'RE WELCOME LOL..
I was considering buying a Kawasaki 1700 Vulcan voyageurs for sale near me with 13 K miles on it.. I put the video on RUclips of the test ride. I took on the machine. And in that video, if you listen to the video on your phone, not on your television with the stereo, system connected, but on your phone, you can hear something clattering inside the engine in time with the RPMs. I really like the look and feel and the seating position of the voyager with the V twin 1700 engine. But all that clattering inside the engine. So I did some investigations on RUclips and the Internet. And videos like this one came up, and I’m noticing a pattern… there are many things that go wrong in these engines, cam chain tensioners that were not capable of maintaining the proper tension on the chain, I consider that a mistake by the factory engineers. Then there’s the hydraulic valve adjusters. I don’t know if they’re valve lifters or are they just maintain the proper clearance. I haven’t seen a disassemble video on RUclips yet. But there seems to be a common problem. there are two solenoids inside the air cleaner housing that make clicking noises. Then in my test ride video , The noise coming from the transmission on every shift, I actually could feel every shift through the floorboards, which turns out to be perfectly normal…. There seems to be many many many fixes for all of these, and other mechanical gremlins in these Vulcan, V-twin Kawasaki engines.. One RUclipsr that gave me the impression that he knows his stuff, he referred to these engines, as being very clicky & Ticky.. That makes me nervous. Because where there’s noise, there is contact.. and where there is contact, there is wear.. i’m gonna pass on buying that Vulcan voyager with only 13 K miles on it.. Too many issues, too many fixes, for too many not simple problems I am surprised and disappointed that a company that has been in business as long as Kawasaki, and I have literally owned many many Kawasaki‘s, Dirt, bikes, street, bikes, Road racers-1,H1R, Two strokes, triples and fours street, bikes, and twins, I currently on a 2019 Kawasaki Z 400 it seems to be perfect so far.. but these big V twin engines have a lot of issues.. Disappointing
Surely the inner cap goes in over the bearing,then you tighten the 8mm bolt onto the cap.Otherwise, what is the point of having a bearing that cant rotate ?
@@clawtlr gotcha yours are different than the ones you order then because it says in the write up on the Kawasaki page you have to cut the old one's off
Dremel tool you cut two slots in the piece that's on the end put it in the vice and pop it off and then glue the other one on the new extenders you glue on I would use J-B weld and let them sit overnight myself but most people use red loctite if it falls off and falls down inside of the motor while you're trying to reinstall it you're pretty much screwed there is a video it's called teardown and rip up if you look that video up it will show you exactly how to put them on
Might be usefull to add the information that - depending on the position of the camshaft and the tension or grade of wear - the chain might skip when you remove the tensioner, which might pretty well result in a capital engine failure afterwards. Therefore Kawasaki has special marks for crankshaft and camshaft-position BEFORE work on or remove the tensioner.
Almost all vids here on RUclips lack this information as well as the one, that to much tension might pretty well lead to damages on the rails of the timing chain and/or the teething of the pinions of the chain.
Cheap repair of clacking-sounds with pretty expensive following costs....
This video is about how the chain tensioner goes together and operates, not how to remove/install it on the bike.
How do you release the tension?
There is about 100+ people who have installed reinstalled the tensioner without TDC AND have no problems. Unless the crank decides to rotate which would be hard when the tires is on the ground I’ve only heard of one person who has catastrophic issues and that was because his back wheel was up when he did and the crank moved when he removed the tensioner
One thing I found out , if you're going to pull the spark plug tubes out . you're going to need a 27 millimeter tool, to pull that out.... they are very expensive to try to buy. but if you look on eBay , you can get a 27 mm hex timing tool for a Porsche. They are 18 bucks with shipping and handling . and they work perfect ..... they fit right in the tube and you can put a ratchet on them. rather than paying 60 or $70 for the tool, or a 47 mm allen wrench ... this is a cheaper way to go . and you'll have a tool to do the job anytime you want in your toolbox for $20...... YOU'RE WELCOME LOL..
I just found a bolt with a 27mm head and JB welded it to a socket.
I was considering buying a Kawasaki 1700 Vulcan voyageurs for sale near me with 13 K miles on it.. I put the video on RUclips of the test ride. I took on the machine. And in that video, if you listen to the video on your phone, not on your television with the stereo, system connected, but on your phone, you can hear something clattering inside the engine in time with the RPMs.
I really like the look and feel and the seating position of the voyager with the V twin 1700 engine. But all that clattering inside the engine. So I did some investigations on RUclips and the Internet. And videos like this one came up, and I’m noticing a pattern…
there are many things that go wrong in these engines, cam chain tensioners that were not capable of maintaining the proper tension on the chain, I consider that a mistake by the factory engineers. Then there’s the hydraulic valve adjusters. I don’t know if they’re valve lifters or are they just maintain the proper clearance. I haven’t seen a disassemble video on RUclips yet. But there seems to be a common problem. there are two solenoids inside the air cleaner housing that make clicking noises. Then in my test ride video , The noise coming from the transmission on every shift, I actually could feel every shift through the floorboards, which turns out to be perfectly normal….
There seems to be many many many fixes for all of these, and other mechanical gremlins in these Vulcan, V-twin Kawasaki engines..
One RUclipsr that gave me the impression that he knows his stuff, he referred to these engines, as being very clicky & Ticky..
That makes me nervous. Because where there’s noise, there is contact.. and where there is contact, there is wear..
i’m gonna pass on buying that Vulcan voyager with only 13 K miles on it.. Too many issues, too many fixes, for too many not simple problems
I am surprised and disappointed that a company that has been in business as long as Kawasaki, and I have literally owned many many Kawasaki‘s, Dirt, bikes, street, bikes, Road racers-1,H1R, Two strokes, triples and fours street, bikes, and twins, I currently on a 2019 Kawasaki Z 400 it seems to be perfect so far..
but these big V twin engines have a lot of issues.. Disappointing
Good job
Surely the inner cap goes in over the bearing,then you tighten the 8mm bolt onto the cap.Otherwise, what is the point of having a bearing that cant rotate ?
It gives the extension rod support and allows it to move out smoothly. There is no reason for rotation since nothing rotates.
How did you cut off the other stock extender
I didn't cut anything off. The aluminum extension is press fit/epoxied over the stock end. It just makes it longer to take up the slack.
@@clawtlr gotcha yours are different than the ones you order then because it says in the write up on the Kawasaki page you have to cut the old one's off
How do you install the extender???
Adam coonradt I made mine on the lathe. It was a press fit on the end and I used some high temp 2 part epoxy as added security.
Dremel tool you cut two slots in the piece that's on the end put it in the vice and pop it off and then glue the other one on the new extenders you glue on I would use J-B weld and let them sit overnight myself but most people use red loctite if it falls off and falls down inside of the motor while you're trying to reinstall it you're pretty much screwed there is a video it's called teardown and rip up if you look that video up it will show you exactly how to put them on
do you sell these extenders ?
Redd Gardner No, check the Vulcan forums to find people who do.
Chuckster custom LLC has the extensions with shipping and handling $26