Vulcan 1600 Classic - Final Drive Oil Change
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- My Vulcan 1600 Classic is a shaft driven motorcycle and this job is only for shaft driven bikes. Chain and belt driven bikes don't have a final drive.
Changing the oil in a shaft driven motorcycles final drive is very easy to do. Most people that do their own bike maintenance, will most likely forget to do this job; mainly because it only needs to be done around 24,000 miles. That kind of mileage, for me anyway, will take 3,... 4... maybe 5 years. I have friends, it would take them 10 years to cover that kind of mileage. But, I have other friends who would cover 24K in a year. 
Авто/Мото
Thank you brother I watch your videos and they’re gold to me. I have a 2007 Kawasaki 1600 Nomad. Perfect ride on 🤟
Thanks for watching and ride on ✌
Thanks, Marc! You made this look almost too easy! Stay safe, brother!
It really is, very easy.
Hey, I've seen a couple of your videos, they are awesome. Just a comment about the drain bolt washer. I think they say to replace it because it's a crush washer like on you use on regular engine oil plug. They won't look damaged but don't have the same seal if reused. I only mention it because I had a drain plug fail while on a Alaska road trip, didn't realize I had lost my drive oil and ceased the whole thing up. $2500 later I got it home.
Yes, that is true. The drain plug crush washer should be replaced with each oil change.
Glad you were able to get your bike back home. Pricey, but home.
Love your videos.
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video, very useful and pleasant to watch! Keep em comin'! :)
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed watching
Chipped my cover with screwdriver method. Not a great choice.
Wow! really? Was the cover on tight?
I've heard of people also using a quarter or a large washer. Don't know if they would work any better or any worse than a screwdriver.
@@ChefHikerBiker I used a large square washer and a plier.
Cool! Thanks for the information.
Two U.S. 25 cent coins (quarter dollars) tapped into the slot, will do as well as anything. I call it my "fifty cent tool". Use your Leatherman tool on the two quarters to spin the cap. Works on the crankcase oil filler cap as well.
A single large metal washer can work too.
I purchased my first Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Mean Streak it's amazing
They are very good bikes. Enjoy!
Thank you my friend!
Thank you. Glad you like my videos.
Thanks Marc
Thanks for watching
I used a quarter and Vice grips for the plug
Yep, or a good sized washer works well too.
should have used a small amount of new oil to flush out the remaining old oil while the drain bolt was still removed
There's always a meniscal amount left whenever you change oil. You will never get it all out. And the small, tiny tiny amout that remains, will do no damage whatsoever.
So, what should the old oil look like? I had a friend that just changed the drive shaft fluid on her Vulcan 1500 and the shop said that it looked 'sparkly' which means fine metal shavings in the oil. They suggested that she take it to a Kawasaki Dealer which she did, after about 1500 miles. The dealer said that was 'normal'? Is that right??
I'm not a mechanic and not an expert in any way. However, the oil should look like used engine oil. If I was seeing sparkles in my oil: I would wrap plastic wrap around a magnet and swish it in the oil and see if anything sticks. If so, take it to the shop, if they say it's normal, take it to a different shop and get a second opinion. If they say it's normal, then I would keep a very close eye on it and change it every couple thousand miles. If it continues after several oil changes, go back to the dealerships. If you're not hearing anything or feeling vibration from the final drive, then maybe it's ok.
I suppose the sparkles could be from some type of oil, and the first shop didn't know that it's normal for that oil, but the dealership did.
However, if I were you, I would get a second opinion from another dealership to put my mind at easy. But still keep an eye on it.
Microscopic metal shavings in oil are normal wear and tear, anything visible is a bad sign. Get a second opinion from an independent mechanic who didn't sell her the bike.
Are all shaft driven Japanese cycles the same in what oil to use? or do they differ due to the type of cycle.
I am not a mechanic and have no idea if the oil requirements are the same for all shaft driven bikes or not.
I agree with Chris. Always check your owner's manual. It will also give you options for cold and hot climate areas.
My cap was really tough to turn but I just sprayed some wd40 and that did the trick
Another good tip. Thanks
What does it mean when there is metal flakes in the final diff?
It could possibly mean that the gears are chowing each other apart. Change the fluid, ride it for 2-3 thousand miles and change it again and see if any more metal flakes show up. If it does, take it to a shop and have a professional look into it.
Hi dear
Will I plz tell me what other maintenance regarding 1600
I'm sorry, I don't understand what you just said. If you are asking if I have other maintenance videos, I have a whole play list on my channel you can watch.
Good morning, I have a classic Kawasaki Vulcan 1500. I would like you to please help me since a part of the cooling system was damaged and I cannot find it in Mexico. Could you tell me where I can get it?
Ebay is probably your best bet.
@@ChefHikerBiker chef, thank you for taking your time to answer me, you are the best in your videos with your Kawasaki, I have a vulcan classic vn 1500 model 1999, your videos have served me a lot, thank you very much.
How could I send you an image of the part you occupy by some other means, since if you look for it where can you tell me and I can't find it and if it makes me sad since I have stopped the motorcycle if you could help me please since you have a lot of experience in Kawasaki and for me in the United States it is the best because you can get everything and for all the models in Mexico it is not like that.
Well thank you very much. I'm glad you like my videos and that they help.
I'm sorry but I'm not going to buy parts for someone else.
I like to know if someone can tell me how to lower my 2005 1600A kawasaki Vulcan classic motorcycle
Not that I know of.
I dont want to seem as though i am calling you wring, but i change the final drive oil with my engine oil every 3500 miles. it still comes out very dark and its such a small amount i would imagine it gets used hard quickly. any thoughts?
You can do what you want. I'm just stating that the Kawasaki owners manual says to change it every 24,000 miles. Being that it calls for gear oil, it holds up to better to the shearing force demands than a lower weight motor oil.
@@ChefHikerBiker i wonder if the darkening of the oil is from heat and not breakdown? it doesnt bothr me to change the oil maybe i can skip it more often
There are a number of factors that turn oil black. Heat is one, time, metal particulates, dirt and dust are just a few more, among others.
If you want to keep putting off changing the oil, that's up to you. But don't wine when your drive gears crack and break because you thought the oil should last longer.
You say you don't mind changing the gear oil, then change it. Better safe than really, really, really sorry.
@@ChefHikerBiker I stated i change the shaft oil every 3,500 miles, how often to you change it? I was surprised to learn the manual reccomended 24,000 miles. that seems obsurd to me
Sorry, I read it as 35,000 not 3,500.
I had the first one done right around the 24k mile mark. The second was around 50k mile mark. The video was only the third time I had it done, and the first time I did it myself, and it was around 73k.
Marc, Can you tell me what fuel to use, I just got my mean streak
today, have no idea and have been looking without any luck.87? 93?
I believe Kawasaki says to use 90 octane. But I use 89.
Thanks , I'll make sure I use better than 'regular'
for now.
I've put less than a mile on it , it runs great on
acceleration, shifts like butter, but
backfires on deceleration, I need to sort that out.
I don't find a power commander on it or fuel module , yet
it looks like baffles were removed.
So far, from what I read, that may be the problem.
The backfiring is normal. I truthfully can't think of a single Vulcan model that doesn't backfire.
It comes with a catalytic convertor from the factory to suppress that. It's just the way the engine was built. I was able to tune that a bit with a Cobra Fi2000, but you'll never be able to get rid of it completely. I run Chevron 93 gas always and never had an issue. I got some knocking with 89.
Thanks Slunk, Yea, I found a commander 3 under the seat, and cut back
little on the richness, it pops much less, but like you say
and others that have similar bikes tell me, don't worry about
the pop, it's in all of the bikes in this class.
I experiment with shift patterns and technique as well,
to cut back at tad more on teh pop.
Now from 1st to 5 I'll usually get about two pops , and if
I back of the throttle slowly while engine braking , it
cuts that inherent popping down as well.
are they suposted to wine on diesel
Some people call it engine braking. That's when you down shift, slowly let out on the clutch, and use the engine to to slow the vehicle down. Works the same on cars, trucks, and motorcycles; anything with a manual transmission.
shaft driven bikes it is not necessary to warm up the bike that only refers to changing the engine oil.
My Vulcan 1600 Service Manual states, under the Final Drive, Oil Change Procedure, and is the very first step listed: "Warm up the oil by running the motorcycle so that the oil will pick up any sediment and drain easily."
But, you do what you want.
That's basically rear diff fluid/ manual transmission fluid.
Yeah, basically. Just make sure to get oil that goes with your manufacturer's specifications.
Is 1500 same like 1600? Thanks
For the most part. But I don't know exactly what the differences are, between the two.
Does this apply to the 1500 as well?
I would think so.
@@ChefHikerBiker yep did it and when I filled it it was pouring out dripping so I assume it’s full lol
Ok, thanks for the info.
Yes it does, but the manual calls for the bike to be held vertically, not resting on the stand. It’s a two-person job unless you have a proper stand. Filling to the bottom of the threads in this manner will lead you to put too little oil in. Also, the best tool for the oil caps on this bike is a crowbar. The flat end is perfect and it gives you much easier leverage than a screwdriver.
Thank you
Do it every oil change.
A bit excessive, but if you want to do it that way, go right ahead.
Mix the left over oil with 2/3 diesel, cheap WD-40 same thing!
Wow, really! That's cool. Thanks for the tip.
Well, final drive oil change must be change every 35 000km.
I believe my service manual says 36,000 km or 24,000 miles. Each bike might list things differently. My VN1600 might be different from a Voyager or a V-Star 650 or whatever. Always check your manual.
The bike should be horizontal the bike should be horizontal when you put the crankcase oil in in the rear end gear oil
I'm sorry, but no.
The service manual says nothing about laying down the bike and all the photos indicate that the motorcycle is standing vertical. The amount is 200ml or just fill it to the bottom of the filler cap threads. You do not fill the entire final drive with oil. It could blow out the seals as the oil expands as it heats up.
i think he means the bike should be stood up straight and not on the kickstand, it will take a little more oil that way
Maybe, but he said horizontal, not once but twice. That to me means he thinks the bike is to be laid down flat. I don't want someone to read his comment and think they need to lay the bike down on it's side to add the oil.
@@ChefHikerBiker I'm looking at doing this with my bike for the first time. Thanks for this video - it's super-helpful. Regarding the comment above, is it better to have my bike completely vertical or is it alright to fill while on the kickstand like in this video?
I am not a mechanic, but to me, the difference in the amounts would be negligible. But, according to the service manual, and if you feel more comfortable, stand the bike upright.