@@Rchelicopterfun Helped me out too. Had an MTD with very similar design. Wasn't sure how to get the belt past the bolt until you mentioned that they moved. Saved probably an hour since I didn't have to separate the auger.
This is going to save me from having to take mine to the shop as my belt broke as I was finishing up....fortunately was just about done and the snow was light
Hey John, I have an Ariens. Funny I would not have thought that was going to work, but it did! Took me longer to change the oil thanks to you. So, cheers! Thanks!
Great stuff. I disvovered this same method with my MTD Yardman track-driven blower. Thought I must have missed something when I saw everyone else on here pulling their machines apart 😅
that plate you were pointing to is to keep the belt from sliding or falling off the pulley there should be 2. they can be loosened quite easily wiht a wrench and tightened after putting the new belt on.. these are pretty easy to replace i replaced mine a month ago
Works well but make sure the belt is under and not over the brake tab. The first time I tried this it was over the tab and ruined the belt. The tab is a small metal tab attached to the arm holding the tensioning wheel that will press against the auger pulley and belt to make sure the auger does not turn when you disengage it (at least that is how it is on my Simplicity).
For the Husq ST224 you only have to remove 4 body bolts and there’s a pivot or hinge that opens the gap between main and impeller hauling without them completely separating. Just did the whole change out in 20 minutes vs removing all the belly plate bolts, removing springs, and finagling through the bottom.
You mean exactly what I stated @1:30. Having it done it both ways now, I find going in through the bottom faster on the 227, but it's up to the user and specific machine. Thanks for watching.
Hey brother, nice tutorial, I found the easiest way to change the belt....and posted it on my channel thanks to your video for the idea. Kindest Regards, and please feel free to critique :) J
I never do and it's never an issue, but I suspect that different engines with the oil breather tube in a different location might be different. With that said, the owner's manual should indicate if this orientation would cause issues without first draining the oil, so that is the first place to check.
how do we find out the auger and drive belts we need. I have a yardmax 24" snow blower that needs the belts replaced but havent been able to find the belts for that specific blower?
Sorry, I honestly can't recall (going by memory), as I've never had to change the drive plate belt yet, only the auger belt. If I had to make an educated guess by looking at it again (on this machine), I would say you can, but you have to remove the auger belt first. I suppose that would be the case regardless which direction you come at it from (bottom or top) since it's on the inner pully on the engine output shaft.
What was your experience removing the drive belt. I followed instructions, removed the "return" spring from the swing plate like the they said. Now I cant get the return spring back on. In retrospect I dont think it was even necessary to remove that spring.@@dj5752
As long as the belt is the exact same size (width & length) and it's meant for a snow blower/power equipment (generally called power belts), doesn't matter who makes it.
Awesome tip! Question: Any issues with fuel leaking out? Or had you drained it since you were storing for the summer? I’m having to replace the belt after this weekend’s heavy/wet snow in New England.
@@stevediamond9219 it did!! I was able to change my belt in 10 minutes, and we are novice snow blower mechanics! Take your time and you’ll be pleasantly amazed!!
Ron , when I pulled my cover off auger belt was still fully attached a little warn but not what is causing my auger from not currently turning , shear pins are fine too ...gotta keep trouble shooting hoping it’s not the gear:/shaft assembly
Second Question: Since this tip bypasses removing the housing bolts, I didn’t EXACTLY discover what I was looking for… ** Any advice regarding replacing the housing bolts if the holes now have a larger diameter due to corrosion and wear from vibration? I bought a used ST227P over the summer (s/n indicates 2014 model). I’m now realizing that the previous owner simply tossed hardware at it. As a result, the top bolts backed out, causing the auger & drive sections to separate while in use this past weekend (fun times). I’d like to replace with OEM, but as I said, it looks like the holes now require something else. Any advice is appreciated!
Without seeing the damage first hand, no idea what might work. Tapping out the hole to the next biggest size would be my method, but it totally depends on how much damage was done to the threaded insert on the back side.
Your call, try it both ways and see which is easier. Like others have stated here, it's totally machine dependent, but on this Husky, this one is easer going from the bottom plate.
Awesome, thanks very much! This is going to make my job of changing the auger belt much much easier!
Glad it might help 🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Helped me out too. Had an MTD with very similar design. Wasn't sure how to get the belt past the bolt until you mentioned that they moved. Saved probably an hour since I didn't have to separate the auger.
This is going to save me from having to take mine to the shop as my belt broke as I was finishing up....fortunately was just about done and the snow was light
Great video, by the way... the belt removal tool is called a knife, try it next time it will speed up the process.
Hey John, I have an Ariens. Funny I would not have thought that was going to work, but it did! Took me longer to change the oil thanks to you. So, cheers! Thanks!
Awesome
Guy at the Husqvarna dealership said 2hrs to change that part. This video and 15 min later im done. Thanks man!
Glad it helped
they charge by the hr at teh mechanic shop is why..they take advantage of peopel who dont know what theyre doing
Great stuff. I disvovered this same method with my MTD Yardman track-driven blower. Thought I must have missed something when I saw everyone else on here pulling their machines apart 😅
Thanks for watching & happy New Year.
that plate you were pointing to is to keep the belt from sliding or falling off the pulley there should be 2. they can be loosened quite easily wiht a wrench and tightened after putting the new belt on.. these are pretty easy to replace i replaced mine a month ago
Thanks very much John! 29 minutes of looking, should of checked out your video first!😜👍
Glad to help
Works well but make sure the belt is under and not over the brake tab. The first time I tried this it was over the tab and ruined the belt. The tab is a small metal tab attached to the arm holding the tensioning wheel that will press against the auger pulley and belt to make sure the auger does not turn when you disengage it (at least that is how it is on my Simplicity).
Thank you so much! I just adjusted my tension to the max and will need to replace the belt soon.
For the Husq ST224 you only have to remove 4 body bolts and there’s a pivot or hinge that opens the gap between main and impeller hauling without them completely separating. Just did the whole change out in 20 minutes vs removing all the belly plate bolts, removing springs, and finagling through the bottom.
You mean exactly what I stated @1:30. Having it done it both ways now, I find going in through the bottom faster on the 227, but it's up to the user and specific machine. Thanks for watching.
i just did the same on my 1985 simplicity, no need to take the whole machine apart.
Thanks for sharing this with us
You bet
Hey brother, nice tutorial, I found the easiest way to change the belt....and posted it on my channel thanks to your video for the idea.
Kindest Regards, and please feel free to critique :)
J
Hey just curious, do you have a video showing how to get a new belt on? its hard to slip on back by where the trigger cable is connected.
That's fantastic. Thanks for the video!
You bet 🙂
Great thanks man
good product fast shipping
On my Simplicity P1728E it takes 5 - 10 min to change both belts.
Nice 👍
Good job showing a better way.
Must you have the machine empty of oil to do this? Thanks
I never do and it's never an issue, but I suspect that different engines with the oil breather tube in a different location might be different. With that said, the owner's manual should indicate if this orientation would cause issues without first draining the oil, so that is the first place to check.
Do you have to drain the oil and gas before flipping the snowblower up on the front end like that?
Not on this model
how do we find out the auger and drive belts we need. I have a yardmax 24" snow blower that needs the belts replaced but havent been able to find the belts for that specific blower?
If the number is worn off the belt, I look in my owners manual - all consumable part numbers are listed; or I use my Google-fu.
My ST224 stop to trou snow and rotor doesn't turn, is that another belt to replace?
Thank you in advance,
Most likely the belt but could also be the auger shaft sheer bolt/pin snapped.
Was hoping this might show how to get the auger pulley off. Any ideas. I have a bent auger and my impact driver won't break it free.
Better impact
You need a pulley claw remover. It has 3 claws that lock onto it and a 16mm bolt you slide your impact onto
Nice Video. Do you know if you can access the drive belt the same way or do you have to split the machine to replace that belt? Thank you.
Sorry, I honestly can't recall (going by memory), as I've never had to change the drive plate belt yet, only the auger belt. If I had to make an educated guess by looking at it again (on this machine), I would say you can, but you have to remove the auger belt first. I suppose that would be the case regardless which direction you come at it from (bottom or top) since it's on the inner pully on the engine output shaft.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks. I'll try and let you know.
What was your experience removing the drive belt. I followed instructions, removed the "return" spring from the swing plate like the they said. Now I cant get the return spring back on. In retrospect I dont think it was even necessary to remove that spring.@@dj5752
Can I use a belt from 24inch Snowblower on 26 inch. Does it need to be of the same brand as manufacturer or can I use a generic from Lowes/HomeDepot ?
As long as the belt is the exact same size (width & length) and it's meant for a snow blower/power equipment (generally called power belts), doesn't matter who makes it.
Awesome tip! Question: Any issues with fuel leaking out? Or had you drained it since you were storing for the summer? I’m having to replace the belt after this weekend’s heavy/wet snow in New England.
**Disregard! I just reviewed the video and you DID drain the fuel.
I just did it quickly
Hopefully this “tip” works on my Ariens 1128 ....... will try in 20 minutes
Hi Ron , did this tip work ? I have the same machine and need to change this belt too ?
@@stevediamond9219 it did!! I was able to change my belt in 10 minutes, and we are novice snow blower mechanics! Take your time and you’ll be pleasantly amazed!!
That is great news ! Thanks Ron appreciate the quick reply !!
@@stevediamond9219 Steve, did you get it done? I’m wishing you good luck!!
Ron , when I pulled my cover off auger belt was still fully attached a little warn but not what is causing my auger from not currently turning , shear pins are fine too ...gotta keep trouble shooting hoping it’s not the gear:/shaft assembly
Second Question: Since this tip bypasses removing the housing bolts, I didn’t EXACTLY discover what I was looking for…
** Any advice regarding replacing the housing bolts if the holes now have a larger diameter due to corrosion and wear from vibration?
I bought a used ST227P over the summer (s/n indicates 2014 model). I’m now realizing that the previous owner simply tossed hardware at it.
As a result, the top bolts backed out, causing the auger & drive sections to separate while in use this past weekend (fun times).
I’d like to replace with OEM, but as I said, it looks like the holes now require something else.
Any advice is appreciated!
Without seeing the damage first hand, no idea what might work. Tapping out the hole to the next biggest size would be my method, but it totally depends on how much damage was done to the threaded insert on the back side.
I thought it was over 250 or 275
And all this time I thought that taking it my mechanic was the easiest way
Where's' the fun & learning in that?
Isn't it just 2 bolts to separate the machine, I really don't see much of a time or labour difference
Your call, try it both ways and see which is easier. Like others have stated here, it's totally machine dependent, but on this Husky, this one is easer going from the bottom plate.