I make a little bit of veg tan from pulverized bark and also some brain tan and some alum tan on occasion and the bark is the best I have found for a strop. I have also been doing snake skin glycerin tans and they are coming out well. Sorry, that strays from the woodwork topic. ADHD is a real thi.. SQUIRREL!
Suede. It picks up the honing paste better in my opinion. I use glass cleaner with the diamond stones, but also have a large gum eraser that I use after a few sharpening's to make sure they are exceptionally clean.
I like flesh suede side and grain side for different edges. Bigger edges that I’m pushing down harder on incidentally I prefer raw. Suede if I’m being gentle and wiping without pressure.
I literally had almost no idea what was going on during the entire video but, I knew it'd be enjoyable to warch!! Hoping all is well Shane, Dirty Jersey out!!
Suede, by raw do you mean polished hide? I have a setup block akin to the one you showed at the start. I really like the idea of stacking them vertically like that though!
I guess, technically, it's the flesh side, but that rough side of the leather is what I mean by raw. Yeah, the steps make it much more compact, and that is important in a smaller shop where space is competitive.
This was surprisingly insightful. I have a hard time finding the bevel on my chisels and your block looks like it solves that. Do you have the plan for the stone holder? Thanks for the informative and detailed video.
Raw... suede... I don't know, but likely raw. Great timing on this. I'm planning on picking up a Tormek this coming weekend, and stuff still needs stropped. By the way, I saw what you did there with the spray bottle... nice touch.
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks Awesome. I waited to go straight to the Tormek because I know it will do so much more than chisels and plane irons... like kitchen knives, even twist drill bits.
Suede is how I’ve been doing it but I’ll have to try raw now. The dad jokes in this one we’re on point! I’ll definitely be getting a block. Good job man.
To me when I hear raw I think of untanned hides, also known as green hides. Full grain is the outside of the skin that had hair, it still has all the original grain. Top grain leather is the same piece but has been sanded and buffed to be smooth. Many pieces of leather have been split and have different names. Split grain is the closest to the flesh and genuine leather is the middle section with the top and bottom section removed.
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks I like your diamond stone sharpening tips and recommendations. I only recently got a wet stone setup and think I will invest in the diamond blocks when it's time to upgrade as these wet stones are a bit too messy for my liking.
I think you're gonna love the diamond stones. I have had a few sets of whet stones but they are a lot of upkeep and like you mentioned are a bit messy. The diamond plates are insanely fast and take no time to set up.
Raw - though the leather I had didn't really have a suede side. It was raw or fully tanned, and fully tanned is just too smooth. I found an STL for a honing guide angle block that I printed on my 3D printer. It's about the size of a credit card (with some extra thickness for the stops, naturally. It's nice to be able to just tuck it away in the top drawer of by bench.
I received the block and it looks nice. I’m new at this and perhaps being dense but would you mind explaining two things for me. 1) how do I know what angle I’m setting the blade against on the block in the different cutouts? 2) what does the upper and lower mean. Thanks in advance as I’m eager to use this.
No worries! That’s my fault, I should have included a link about how the block actually works. I just added instructions to the bottom of the order page on the website here: bit.ly/biscuitblock If you still have questions, feel free to reach out to me here or shoot me a DM on Instagram, and I’d be happy to help you out.
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks it’s a shame you don’t mail to Australia but I understand the cost is brutal. Dig your channel and your Dad jokes too of course
What hand tool that you own dulls the fastest?
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I use the raw side with green honing compound. I also use a hard veg tan leather.
That's an even better route to take!
I make a little bit of veg tan from pulverized bark and also some brain tan and some alum tan on occasion and the bark is the best I have found for a strop.
I have also been doing snake skin glycerin tans and they are coming out well. Sorry, that strays from the woodwork topic. ADHD is a real thi.. SQUIRREL!
Suede. It picks up the honing paste better in my opinion. I use glass cleaner with the diamond stones, but also have a large gum eraser that I use after a few sharpening's to make sure they are exceptionally clean.
Great point! I realize that I misspoke in the video... I should have said grain side or suede side, But yeah suede is what I use as well.
Thank you for the info on the gum eraser as I was unaware of it being used for that.
I like flesh suede side and grain side for different edges. Bigger edges that I’m pushing down harder on incidentally I prefer raw. Suede if I’m being gentle and wiping without pressure.
Good point, for my razors I like the grain side. Flesh works great for hand tools though.
Hard maple isn't that bad on edges after I hand carved this African Blackwood 😳
4050 on the Janka scale is wild. Like caring rocks I’d imagine.
Raw. Subscribed. Your videography is great. Thank you for sharing your gifts.
Welcome to the channel! Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
Raw, I find that it retains the geometry set by the stones better since it’s a more firm stropping substrate
Great observation
Better call 911 cause the way you're throwing bricks someone's gonna get hurt 😂😂😂
😂😂😂 Feeling like Shaq at the line
I literally had almost no idea what was going on during the entire video but, I knew it'd be enjoyable to warch!! Hoping all is well Shane, Dirty Jersey out!!
Haha, yeah this was kind of a niche one, but glad you liked man!
Suede, by raw do you mean polished hide?
I have a setup block akin to the one you showed at the start. I really like the idea of stacking them vertically like that though!
I guess, technically, it's the flesh side, but that rough side of the leather is what I mean by raw. Yeah, the steps make it much more compact, and that is important in a smaller shop where space is competitive.
This was surprisingly insightful. I have a hard time finding the bevel on my chisels and your block looks like it solves that. Do you have the plan for the stone holder? Thanks for the informative and detailed video.
Glad it was helpful! I don't have the plan done but if more people want it, I'd be happy to offer it for free.
Thank you for explaining everything. It helps to understand what you’re doing.
Happy to hear you found it helpful!
Complex complex complex was gold!!! Thanks for the video
Haha! Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it.
I think we have different definitions of 'simple'. Still a cool project
Thanks! I don’t think the end result is overly complicated.
Raw... suede... I don't know, but likely raw. Great timing on this. I'm planning on picking up a Tormek this coming weekend, and stuff still needs stropped. By the way, I saw what you did there with the spray bottle... nice touch.
Rock on! That's a dive I'm sure I'll take some day. Glad you caught that one haha
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks Awesome. I waited to go straight to the Tormek because I know it will do so much more than chisels and plane irons... like kitchen knives, even twist drill bits.
Yeah, it's a versatile addition. I'm sure you're going to love it.
It's amazing how RUclips didn't pickup the profanity on the left side 10:29. 😂😂
That's just my donkey spray haha
I’ll take that as it was intentional placement 👏
Haha I got a kick out of it
Suede is how I’ve been doing it but I’ll have to try raw now. The dad jokes in this one we’re on point! I’ll definitely be getting a block. Good job man.
Haha thanks! Let me know what you think once you get it!
To me when I hear raw I think of untanned hides, also known as green hides. Full grain is the outside of the skin that had hair, it still has all the original grain. Top grain leather is the same piece but has been sanded and buffed to be smooth. Many pieces of leather have been split and have different names. Split grain is the closest to the flesh and genuine leather is the middle section with the top and bottom section removed.
Raw - Great video and great tips thanks for sharing
Any time, glad you enjoyed it.
What type of router bit did you use for the carving the stone holders with the guide?
This is the flush trim bit I used - amzn.to/44qxnkm
I can barely spell suede 😂
Great video! I like how compact those "Biscuit blocks" are and how easy setup is as a consequence.
Hahaha! I had that same thought earlier today. Thanks, yeah I think they are a compact, simple solution.
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks I like your diamond stone sharpening tips and recommendations.
I only recently got a wet stone setup and think I will invest in the diamond blocks when it's time to upgrade as these wet stones are a bit too messy for my liking.
I think you're gonna love the diamond stones. I have had a few sets of whet stones but they are a lot of upkeep and like you mentioned are a bit messy. The diamond plates are insanely fast and take no time to set up.
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks I'm sold. Just need to save up for them now haha
Raw - though the leather I had didn't really have a suede side. It was raw or fully tanned, and fully tanned is just too smooth.
I found an STL for a honing guide angle block that I printed on my 3D printer. It's about the size of a credit card (with some extra thickness for the stops, naturally. It's nice to be able to just tuck it away in the top drawer of by bench.
Yeah, the tanned side doesn’t hold the compound well. The Biscuit Block isn’t quite that small.
Raw. Just bought your block. Thanks
I just printed the shipping label. It will go out tomorrow. Hope you enjoy it!
I received the block and it looks nice. I’m new at this and perhaps being dense but would you mind explaining two things for me. 1) how do I know what angle I’m setting the blade against on the block in the different cutouts? 2) what does the upper and lower mean. Thanks in advance as I’m eager to use this.
No worries! That’s my fault, I should have included a link about how the block actually works. I just added instructions to the bottom of the order page on the website here: bit.ly/biscuitblock If you still have questions, feel free to reach out to me here or shoot me a DM on Instagram, and I’d be happy to help you out.
Why do the prices end in 99 cents, not an even dollar?
It is the psychology of pricing.
Suede because it holds the polishing compound better. I glued mine directly to a hard as diamond piece of Spotted Gum.
Good call!
Very nice!!
Thank you! Cheers!
You couldnt do it without a CNC?
I mean I could. But, I have a CNC.
Suede side most definitely.
Nice!
Very nice
Thanks! I’m happy with the results
@@TimberBiscuitWoodworks it’s a shame you don’t mail to Australia but I understand the cost is brutal. Dig your channel and your Dad jokes too of course
Thanks! I just looked out of curiosity and it's $40 on average to ship it to Australia so that's a little steep. Maybe one day I can get better rates.
Raw, it's the way I was taught. This is super helpful, thanks for sharing. I hate sharpening my tools but this makes sense.
Glad you found it helpful!
What nonsense. You made a jig and stone holder. And wasted lots of our time.
I’m not sure what you thought you were going to see here champ. But given that I’m taking the time to reply to this comment, I guess we’re even.