Güllich redpointed Sautanz in 1981. Nowadays most consider it an 8a. Güllich was famous for being very humble in rating their routes. in 1987 Güllich free soloed the same route and in 1991 he climbed the back then first 8c+/0a Action Directe (nowadays 9a). The crazy thing is that Güllich had taken a long break from climbing , then got presented the Action Directe and managed to achieve that monumental route. For 10 years only 3 people could also climb succesful climb it .
@@listrahtes Consensus for Sautanz is still 7b+ (9-) and Güllich's Free Solo was in 86. But it's true that Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich Routes tend to be slightly harder than other routes of that grade. But I've never heard anyone say its 8a.
2:39 im surprised, that edge is larger than I thought, I can do a one arm pull-up off 14mm so I figured they’d be absolutely shit edges….like 10mm or less
You couldnt be more wrong about someone. Its painful to read your crap knowing you have no idea about Güllich. Güllich was the furthest away from your "risk live to feel alive". He single handedly brought professional training into climbing. Revolutionized training by breaking it down and meticously preparing every single step with self designed training equipment used to this day by climbers. He was considered the safest climber. He was also a romantic about it in the sense that he never wanted to make it about money or glory. He loved the mountains and some of his most impressive ascents are in Himalaya were he brought free climbing to the Karakorum. He was one of the safest climbers ever in free solo and used that as a final experience for himself but its much more than "feel alive": And it was only a small part of what he did. His level of perfection in climbing was at a level you simply dont understand at all. Güllich was considered the best climber of this planet for more than a decade was ultra tough ( climbed in Himalaya with a torn achilles tendon and broken Calcaneus) humble and selfless. A complete opposite of all the markting obsessed narcicists we see nowadays in the climbing community.
On 1:17 the photo shows the Fitz Roy massif, not the Trango Towers.
He also made some stunts for Sylvester Stallone in Cliffhanger.
Nice video!
Arapiles solo picture it's from Stefan Glowacz for the movie "Scream of stone"...
He died in a car accident 30 years ago.
Fell asleep on the wheel on the way home after an early morning interview at a radio station. RIP
He red pointed a 7c and eventually a 9a?! How much time was between 7c and 9a?!
Güllich redpointed Sautanz in 1981. Nowadays most consider it an 8a. Güllich was famous for being very humble in rating their routes. in 1987 Güllich free soloed the same route and in 1991 he climbed the back then first 8c+/0a Action Directe (nowadays 9a). The crazy thing is that Güllich had taken a long break from climbing , then got presented the Action Directe and managed to achieve that monumental route. For 10 years only 3 people could also climb succesful climb it .
@@listrahtes Consensus for Sautanz is still 7b+ (9-) and Güllich's Free Solo was in 86. But it's true that Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich Routes tend to be slightly harder than other routes of that grade. But I've never heard anyone say its 8a.
@@badsn If you correct me , do so with facts. I meant the first ascent of Action Directe in 1991 , not the Sautanz free solo.
Besides being a climbing prodigy he was the most humble person you could meet and stood out with his open mind and heart in the international scene.
2:39 im surprised, that edge is larger than I thought, I can do a one arm pull-up off 14mm so I figured they’d be absolutely shit edges….like 10mm or less
Just a matter of time. His luck will run out. How sad someone has to be that they feel they have to risk their lives to feel alive
He died in a car accident long ago. Unrelated to his dangerous climbing
You couldnt be more wrong about someone. Its painful to read your crap knowing you have no idea about Güllich. Güllich was the furthest away from your "risk live to feel alive". He single handedly brought professional training into climbing. Revolutionized training by breaking it down and meticously preparing every single step with self designed training equipment used to this day by climbers. He was considered the safest climber.
He was also a romantic about it in the sense that he never wanted to make it about money or glory. He loved the mountains and some of his most impressive ascents are in Himalaya were he brought free climbing to the Karakorum.
He was one of the safest climbers ever in free solo and used that as a final experience for himself but its much more than "feel alive": And it was only a small part of what he did. His level of perfection in climbing was at a level you simply dont understand at all.
Güllich was considered the best climber of this planet for more than a decade was ultra tough ( climbed in Himalaya with a torn achilles tendon and broken Calcaneus) humble and selfless. A complete opposite of all the markting obsessed narcicists we see nowadays in the climbing community.