September 1992 Wolfgang Güllich in MDR-Biwak
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- ein Interview mit Wolfgang Güllich zu seinem Leben, dem Klettersport, seinem Training, zur „Aneinanderreihung ausgetüftelter minimal belastbarer Spezialknötchen" in der sächsischen Schweiz und das Freiklettern den Verzicht auf künstliche Hilfsmittel bedeutet und deshalb viele der schweren Wege in der sächsischen Schweiz nach weltweitem Konsens noch nicht wirklich frei geklettert wurden.
Ich erinnere mich an den Vortrag damals in Tübingen - müsste wohl so um 1990 gewesen sein (minus 3 Jahre). Er zog sein Sweatshirt aus, weil es so warm war und ein Raunen ging durch den Saal angesichts seines durchtrainierten Körpers. Was mir (trotz des Raunens im Saal) immer in Erinnerung blieb, war seine unglaubliche Bescheidenheit die er an diesem Abend als Eindruck hinterließ. Ich kletterte viel Jahre (teils extrem - für meine Verhältnisse). Ich verfolgte in meinem Leben einige Sportarten und Sportler interessiert. Aber in meinem ganzen Leben habe ich nie einen solchen Sportler (auch nach seinem Tod) gesehen, der einerseits dermaßen an der Spitze stand, seiner Zeit weit voraus war und andererseits dermaßen zurückhaltend und demütig war. Nicht nur als Kletterer, als Sportler, als Mensch eine Legende....
Lieber Thomas,
Deinen Zeilen kann ich mich 100% anschließen. Ich hatte das Vergnügen mit Wolfgang ein Bier trinken zu dürfen (er trank Mineralwasser) und über das Klettern zu philosophieren. Wie konnten ihn zu einem Show-Klettern und Interview 1991 im E&S Mannheim gewinnen. Er kam, es war wohl kurz nach den Dreharbeiten zu Stallone’s Cliffhanger. Im Gesagten liegt sehr viel Aktualität. Das Campus-Board gehört immer noch in jede Kletterhalle, auch hier in den USA. Was mir am meisten auffällt: es gibt/gab keine andere Persönlichkeit im Klettersport nach ihm, die eine derartig tiefgreifende Diskussion über Ethik und den Sport im Allgemeinen (heute würde man/frau sagen die do‘s and dont‘s) geführt hat, wie er es tat. Seine Bescheidenheit, innere Ruhe, seine Innovationskraft und Wille zum Teilen des Erlernten haben dem Sport einen wesentlichen Schub gegeben. Nach 32 Jahren immer noch präsent - RIP
Was für ein tolles Interview, danke fürs hochladen!
0:00
Anchorman: Good evening, dear audience. Wolfgang Güllich is dead. He was probably the most impressive personality of international sport climbing in the last decade. He lost his life in a car crash.
Güllich has opened the eleventh grade in climbing. He wrote books about mountaineering of almost philosophical depth and his training method has stimulated a whole generation. When we met him a while ago in Saxon Switzerland - we often like to go there - we had a rather long talk and recorded it. We were always looking for an opportunity to include this interview into our program. We are extremely sorry that this occasion is now.
We agreed with Güllich, that we will illustrate parts of his statements. Among other things we wanted to film during his training. This is not possible anymore. The footage that you see now was taken in Yosemite national park in the USA.
0:50
Güllich: I had the chance to build up over many years because of the slow development in free climbing. In these days there was no significant grade in sight, so it was always very gratifying to climb at the forefront and I didn’t feel that rush that maybe those young hotshots nowadays feel in the neck, if they feel immediately confronted with the tenth oder eleventh grade.
1:56
Güllich: I mainly practice at the crag. That means directly outdoor in nature, because I am convinced that practicing it lets you acquire a big bunch of movements. So, I climb very intensely for two days and I go to the gym in the evening of the second day and carry out special muscle exercise at a overhanging board with rails. On the third day I schedule a rest day. Because it is very very important that you maintain the relation between strain and recovery. Personally I even think that most climbers train highly motivated way too much than too little.
3:04
Güllich: I practice mainly with my own body weight. Sometimes I put on additional weights. I practice little with machines, just because I think that the muscle is really isolated with machines. In the past I did that a lot and it was a big mistake in my opinion, because you are really restricted and you are also fixed on the way how to strain the muscle.
3:58
Güllich: Personally I practice an imitation training in the gym. On the overhanging rail board which we constructed - that is a very simple training device: about three meter high, with rails in regular intervals, different areas with different rail width - so with that I exercise hanging practice, which means I always imitate a movement pattern.
Interviewer: Can you give an example?
Güllich: Yes. I did this especially for the route Wallstreet. I discovered it years ago, I always went back there and it was almost hopeless to climb it. In 1984 it was normal around here to climb tenth grade and I still didn’t see a possibility to master this very hard, short, five meter long sequence even move by move. However it was clear to me that there are structures of holds and that it must be somehow possible. Thats why I measured the route, memorized the holds, went to the special gym and marked them there. And then I first had to develop groups of muscles so that I could exercise these moves later.
5:44
Güllich: The fingers are the main tool of climbers. So you want to practice maximum finger strength in a high intramuscular area. 80, 90 percent of pure maximum force. And so I developed the „downfall training“ or the „downjump training“ for fingers by hanging on top of my beloved overhanging rail board and then falling down one meter to catch myself with both hands on a small rail.
6:47
Güllich: Well, the absolute performance of pull-ups is not so crucial. It is more important that you can manoeuvre your body appropriately with one arm. So I never checked how many pull-ups in a row it can carry out. My best performance was six one-finger pull-ups in a row.
7:40
Güllich: For 16 years I come here regularly and the Elbsandsteingebirge is one of the most beautiful landscapes for me and also regarding to climbing it is still very impressive. It has more of an adventurous character and the happiness of mountaineering counts more here, to ascent to the top by the chosen route. But I have to confess that other areas have outranked Saxony in climbing considering the sporting value. Because there is a worldwide mutual consent of free climbing which is different from what is practiced here. Because free climbing means that you conquer the wall with you own power, that means that you never climb up with artificial help, but that you also do not rest. And since around here it is also allowed to rest, many routes here are not considered as free climbing by worldwide standards.
9:12
Güllich: The knots, which are partly essential around here to not getting badly hurt, are not doable when free climbing. They are kind of a series of special knots, very sophisticated, with minimal load capacity, which don’t have a function at all for a free climber. And as a result the wall is looking impressive, but it is extremely bad bolted. So you can say indeed - and in this respect I understand some young climbers and their argumentation - that maybe some routes should have been left to the next generation.
10:46
Interviewer: Are there times when you consciously withdraw from mountaineering, because you feel that your body has burnt out, because you feel that you are mentally tired? Or are you inexhaustible in this respect?
Güllich: I don’t belong to the Inexhaustibles. Ten years ago I have been one but now my motivation ceases sometimes. So you have to look for new goals. Especially when you have realized an important goal for yourself, you are tired. I think Sigmund Freud once said: „After coitus every creature is sad“. That’s how it goes. After achieving eleventh grade or after a special expedition to the Karakoram another project isn’t occurring immediately. So it can happen that I let myself go for three or four months and don’t focus on climbing too much. I definitely want to have such distance from climbing. Because I am convinced that many athletes wear out so early, because they always feel the pressure to do always the same thing and so it becomes a solidified routine. A sport mustn’t become routine, mustn’t become work, but always has to be about enjoying exercises, about self-fulfillment. Personally I am happy that a coach isn’t telling me when I have to do what. For me that is just one of the most important aspects of rock climbing and that’s why I can do it self-organized. And I think that is also a reason why I still love climbing after 17 years.
Vielen Dank Florian!
Ich habe begonnen deine Übersetzung als Untertitel hinzuzufügen und hoffe, dass ich die doch recht aufwendige Bearbeitung demnächst fertigstellen kann.
:) thanks. fascinating reading, there was a mind behind the power
thank you so much
Ein sehr intelligenter junger Mann... ruhe in Frieden Wolfgang !
Was für ein Typ! Inspiration pur!
Danke vielmals fürs Hochladen.
Danke fürs Hochladen.
30 Jahre her - als waere es gestern gewesen .
. . . hab ihn nie persoenlich kennen gelernt - aber er war ein Meilenstein im Klettertraining . Wir hatten ein schoenes " Klettergebiet " in der " Unterwelt " von Wernigerode ( Ost Harz ) dank " Charlies " Vater . Ein ungenutzter Weinkeller den wir nutzen durften fuer unser Training .
Danke fuer das Alles .
Dietmar " DIDI " Treptow
Ein MT
9+
We've Found The Magic Frequency
Danke für die Bereitstellung!
Starker Mann! Respekt für seine Leist(ung)en! Aber technisch hat sich schon noch einiges getan in den letzten Jahrzehnten. Auch wenn ich die brutale Dynamik im modernen Bouldern nicht mehr ganz so interessant finde.
legende
Danke! Geiler Güllich!
THE KING!!!!!!!!!!!
Beeindruckend
Ruhe in Frieden. Ein Pionier seiner Zunft.
Legend! Rip😔
Soundtrack während der Kletterpassagen?
Master in act
Er ist im August 1992 gestorben, der Titel stimmt hier nicht.
Am 31.08.1992. Daher stimmt der Titel, da der Beitrag im September 1992 in TV lief.
Hochintelligente Trainingsaussagen ... Gibt's nix dran zu rütteln!!! Jedes Freie Training ist Platin für Seele und Körper
flipper hat als eine seinen besten freund verloren und sich nie mehr gefangen aber er war vermutlich bessere im boldern
aber flipper war nicht der höhen freak - boldern heisst schwierigkeit nicht höhe da ware denke wolfgang fietz ihm mindestens ebenbürdig wenn nicht besser?
RIP AMI!