Astro Tutorial #2.9.2: DSLR Astro - Modification Comparison (Stock vs. Mod Canon EOS700D)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Hey folks,
in this video we are going to investigate the effect of the DSLR Astro Modification. Therefore we are going to compare two nearly identical cameras: The Canon EOS 700D Stock vs. Canon EOS 700D astromodified
We will discuss the effects of the modification, dig in some theory and highlight the pros and cons of modifying your DSLR.
I hope this episode can give you a good insight into camera modification.
Click like and subscribe for more videos like this to come! Don't miss them!
Clear skies and till next time here on catchingphotons!
-Chris
Links:
Tim talking about Astro-Modification:
• Should You Modify Your...
For German viewers: A great (!) talk about astro-modification:
• DSLR Astromodifikation...
#Images for comparison:
MOD single 2min frame: catchingphoton...
MOD 1h stacked AUTOSTRETCH: catchingphoton...
MOD 1h RED only AUTOSTRETCH: catchingphoton...
STOCK single 2min frame: catchingphoton...
STOCK 1h stacked AUTOSTRETCH: catchingphoton...
STOCK 1h RED only AUTOSTRETCH: catchingphoton...
Copyright:
creativecommon...
creativecommon...
creativecommon...
creativecommon...
Hashtags:
#astromodification
#astro
#dslr
I agree with modification recommend! Good comparison!
Thanks Ray for this encouraging comment! One day I'll repeat this comparison with long duration Ha-subs. Might enhance the effect. Clear skies and warmer weather to you!!
@@catchingphotons we are back to normal
That is good to hear! Did you receive my mail? Clear skies!
Amazing video! I have a stock Canon T7i and used it for astrophotography almost an entire year. Then I got a modified T3i used for dirt cheap and was blown away on the amount of red nebulosity it could capture. Definitely worth it 👍🏻
Thanks Patrick for the inside!
Excellent. Very timed because I have been thinking of modifying my camera. 👍
Do it! =)
Thanks again Chris ! ☕️
As always a pleasure, Thomas! Always nice to spot your comments below the videos. Clear skies!!
Thank you very much. I was looking for comparison like this for a very long time. It's a bit sad that I lose so much data with unmodified camera:(
Yea true BUT: You can still capture great images. You "only" need more exposure time. But if you're in doubt: Do the modification! It's worth every penny.
@@catchingphotons I agree. I'm still waiting for good weather, but I had a chance to capture a few nebulas with my unmodified camera and it wasn't too bad. Also worth mentioning is that you need to take a longer exposure with unmodified camera because I shot the heart nebula with a short exposure and after stacking 2 hours of data there was nothing😅 I thought it was because of my camera but later I found that if you take longer exposures like 30 seconds you will get data and after stacking you will get decentt image.
Im quite a newbie in AP and i use my sony a6000 for this. every time I think of astromodify it but.. its my only camera also for daytime. I think I'll get another camera (2nd hand) and astronodify that one, since mine is still in warranty 😅😅
But i think ill wait a bit more (to save a bit of money before).. thanks for the video!!
Warranty is an issue, that's right. Maybe you stick to your stock a6000 for a while and then consider a dedicated astro cam? If you'd buy a second camera nevertheless? The specs of even the cheaper astro cameras are vastly superior to the dslr cameras - only the sensor is much smaller. Whether this is an issue or not depends on your setup: try stellarium for exploring your FOV.
Clear skies!!
-Chris
super intressant! Danke
Gerne :-) War ein großer Spaß bisher, die Videos zu erstellen. LG
love your content
Thanks man!!
Very interesting and well made video(s)!
But I have a question about the light gathering if you remove the RGB/Bayer filter: As far as I know, this filter separates the sensor into 3 parts/grids: The red, green and blue sensitive area. In order to do that, 2/3 of the spectrum (visible) has to be filtered out by each Pixel. In addition to that, every Pixel has only the information about one primary color and has to "steal" the other 2 primary colors later on in software to produce the RGB Pixel.
If you're removing this filter, you're getting not just 1/3 of the available light, your getting 3/3 + the inefficiency of the filter itself, which wouldn't be there, as well. The resolution should also increase, because the gray pixels don't have to be averaged from 3 pixels.
But you would sacrifice all of the beautiful colors of course. Except you would use filters again.
This would increase the light sensitivity much more than the ir filter removal. At least by 200%. Or am I totally off the track with my theory? :-)
I think all and all you're right with your theory. Keep in mind that the bayer matrix is rggb, but hence there's no green in space it doesn't matter......
Professional astronomy black and white cameras do exploit the enhanced sensitivity due to the removal or not existence of a bayer matrix.
Problem with normal DSLR cameras will be that you can't just remove the bayer matrix because the cameras internal software can't handle the raw black and white input... It will still interpret it as the corresponding colours and stuff.
If you want to compare: search for quantum efficiency for RGB and mono cameras with similar sensor.
Clear skies!
@@catchingphotons Thanks for the clarification!
Couldn't you shoot in raw and use some software to convert the RGB (sub?)-pixels in to gray Pixels? Or is the camera already processing the data?
@@stefanmayer444 RAW is always processed data. That's why a programm (DSS) needs to know the typo of data flowing in (for example canon .raw) to interpret that data correctly.
Just one example: My canon .raw-mode has manual control over the white balance. Shouldn't be the case for "true raw pixel value data".
Clear skies!
@@catchingphotons Thank you :-)
I did not expect that. That's very interesting.
@@catchingphotons your statement that "there's no green in space" is incorrect; imaging with a monochrome camera involves using separate RGB filters, along with a luminannce filter (not mentioning narrowband filters here).
Excelent!
Thanks, much appreciated! Clear skies ;-)
8:48 i am now 3 months in and today i did a full spectrum mod, all by myself, succesfully (im 17)
Great job!! And how does the camera perform in comparison? Would love to see some images 🙂 clear skies!
As usual loved the video. Your videos are one of those that I like first and then watch :P
Quick question though. Say I have a stock DSLR, a tracker and a refractor (like the Zenithstar). Wouldn't using narrow band filters like h-alpha in this situation be better than modifying the DSLR which looks like a more permanent change?
Thanks for the encouraging comment Amol!!
You can use any filter with the stock DSLR but: is the sensitivity for the desired wavelength is not given, then you'll need lots of additional time to compensate for that... That's "all".
Clear skies!!
No, using an Ha filter on a stock camera would not be better. The reason is that the DSLRs original IR Blocking filter will still be in place. All you would be doing is stacking an Ha filter on top of the IR blocking filter. So any Ha signal that the Ha filter passes would still be blocked by that IR blocking filter. You need to remove that IR blocking filter in order to get any use from an Ha filter.... or just get a dedicated astro camera and leave your dslr intact :)
Thank you very much Chris.
I have a 600D unmodified but I think I'll convert it to the "dark side" sooner than later.
I have noticed that we use a similar setup, and I would like to ask you something. I have a Baader MPCCMkIII attached to the DSLR and I cannot get rid of the coma aberration in one of the corners of my images. Do you think it could be caused by tilt of the optical train in the f*****g SW 2" eyepiece holder? (2 bolts instead of 3...)
Thank you very much and clear skies!
tbf, doing a full spectrum mod vs only removing the LPF-2 doesnt make any difference in difficulty
I don't know if it does maky any difference in difficulty but it "only" get's you from 85% to 100% so I don't think it's worth any concideration. "just" removing LPF2 makes you go from 20 to 85 and THATS the big deal I assume. Cheers!
I mean the really interesting question would be. Can I compensate the downside of a not-astromodified camera by shooting e.g. 10 times more frames and stack them? Would the result be the same or even better? Mostly only one e.g. 120s frame provides a nice milkyway picture. So why not to should 10x120s with a not-astromodified camera, when result are the same.
Of course an astromnod. camera will always winn when comparing same total exposure times, but in case someone has no money for a 2nd astromod. camera, this could be a good compromise. What do you think?
You are totally right. It all comes down to the amount of information the system can collect. The non-mod camera collects less information so you need to increase the collecting-time in order to gain the same result (more frames+stacking). The pro argument for astro modification is the reduced integration time to gain a certain level of details/information. But true: if you collect only 10% the photons you can always "just" multiply your imaging session by x10 to get the same result. But.... 10x is a lot! And when modifying you'll be able to shoot targets in one night that are just very faint and non -modded cameras will need several nights instead and you might not get them. That was my reasoning behind modding and I had never regretted it.
But if you don't have the money: just keep going!! Of course you can take super cool images without modding.
Clear skies!
I want to modify my A7 II or A6000 (just removing the LPF2). My goal is to take usual full color pictures of Deep Sky Objects and Nebulae.
Do i need to buy some sort of clip in filter afterwards? I heard terms like IR Cut or LRGB filters, but im not sure if i need these for my purpose.
I hope someone can help me with this.
Interesting. Where did you find someone who did this procedure for only 100 euro ?
My camera was modified by Julien Steelandt and it was 120€ and a very professional work. I can highly recommend Juliens work!
Clear skies!
Is there some stuff to get away with a stock one ? Like alot more lights taken or some outer filter on a stock device. I wonder if i could get not that but slightly more than the video showed on the stock side. I got a camera but dont really want to modding it . But buy a new one is out if budget.
I mean yes, there is, but its simply not worth it. You could get a 12nm or 6nm H-alpha filter but they are 1. Expensive and 2. Using them with an unmodified camera is a complete waste of time because almost no light will reach the sensor anymore. Suddenly you just increased your minimum needed exposure time from 2 minutes to 30 minutes _per frame._
I modded my D3400 myself to full spectrum and then got a specific STC Optics Nikon Clip-in filter that blocks most of the UV. Comparing the new data to data from one night before the mod, it is evident that unmodded DSLR Astrophotography is fine but youre basically wasting your time.
In short: If theres no way for you to get your camera modded or mod it yourself, stick to non-Ha targets.
Is it better a Full Frame camera such as a Canon 5D or a 700D all with Full Frame mod ? thanks and which filter do you suggest to use for pollution areas, CLS....?
Bigger sensors are always preferable but of course much more expensive. To my knowledge Canon even sells astro modified full frame cameras directly, through I guess the pricing is quite "unique"... Anyway.
Filters depend on your target. Broadband targets like galaxies need filters that only cut away artificial light whereas with emission nebula you can use narrowband filters that let only certain light through and block everything else hence being much better in suppressing light pollution... I use the l-extreme (superb) as narrowband and a simple Optolong streetlight filter for galaxies (keep the star colours quite balanced).
Hope I could help you, feel free to contact me via Twitter/Instagram for further information. Cheers!!
Want to see day in life of a physicist
Watch Dr. Becky's video about one day in the life of an astrophysicist. It's amazing and well made and true ;-) give it a go!
ruclips.net/video/XW_qIqLhPkI/видео.html
Clear skies!
@@catchingphotons hey man what’s your Twitter
@catchingphoton1
Clear skies!!
@@catchingphotons sent you my first picture 🙇🏻♀️
@@catchingphotons I noticed I got huge vignette if I do longer exposure. Maybe because it’s a f/2? If I got too much light in the middle and big dark edges, should I decrease my exposure time so that the color comes out more average? I set my gain to 0 already however the rasa won’t be able to pass 2 min exposure and the photo came out over exposure.
$595 au here to get my full frame Sony modded..
At that prices one can think about buying a dedicated astro-cam in the first place...