Love It. I just ordered 3 templates! Thanks so much! Can’t wait to get started! Plus I didn’t see a link to the Total Boat Honey. Can you send me the link? Thanks Again! 🤝
We do have a list on our site, here is a copy of that answer from our FAQ page: The majority of our templates are external shaping templates where you want your material to take the final shape of the template (such as a handle, charcuterie board or wine caddy etc). For these templates, any flush trim router bit with a guide bearing will do. You will want a bit 1/8" or 1/4" in diameter. You can purchase lower cost/quality ones from Amazon.com, or you can use a higher end bit such as the Amana Tool 46297 spiral trim down-cut bit. If you are wanting to create wood inlays (like butterflies or bowties) you will want a router bit inlay kit that can cut the inlay piece itself as well as the matching pocket to receive the inlay in your project. For this we recommend the Whiteside 9500 Solid Brass Inlay Kit. Finally, if you are wanting to simply pocket out a shape or inlay (to backfill with resin for example), and you dont want to go through the full depth of your material, then you will want to use a plunge router in conjunction with the Amana Tool 45983 radiused plunge bit (for rounded interior edges), or the Amana Tool 45460-S straight cut plunge bit (for straight interior edges).
Hello I love your products. While using one of the templates and a Yonico 33206q Bottom Bearing Ultra-Performance Compression Flush Trim Router Bit 1/4-Inch Shank. I had to switch bits (top baring and bottom) based on wood grain. I had an 1/8” to take off. It’s hard for me to know which way to go. I was using walnut. One side with top bearing then switch to bottom bearing. My question is do you have any tips so that I’m not praying that it doesn’t fly out of my hands. I see in this video you just fly through it. I have watched other videos on RUclips but it’s still hard to read the grain. It wasn’t mentioned in my his video so with these bits mentioned do I not have to worry about wood grain. Sorry for the long question. Love watching your series of videos.
Hi Matthew. I have never considered the wood grain. When I am using the router table and one of our templates there are two considerations. 1. Make sure you are going against the direction of the rotation of your router bit with your piece, and 2. Start at a section of your piece that has the smallest amount of wood (when measured from the edge of the template). Typically once you get the bearing to touch the router template, it's smooth sailing from there.
I have a couple of templates so far. I do not have a router table so I’m using my hand router with flush trim bit. The issue I have is the router on a couple of times have chipped a chunk of the template. Any suggestions?
It's possibly from the template and your wood piece going off kilter (angle) when running it along the bottom of your router. It's definitely much easier to do on a router table. You also want to make sure you are "approaching" the bit the right way, slow, opposite the direction of its spin, and with the part of your material that is thinnest (as in thin between the template and the side of the wood). This will help reduce any sort of kickback that could occur.
Love your templates, thank you.
These templates are a game changer!! Love seeing the wood and epoxy pop with the wood honey too!!
The wood honey is great stuff. We love the thick and rich feeling finish it leaves on the wood. It’s a great product!
so many templates! love the huge selection y'all have!!!
I love the resin/wood with the heart. How do you do that??? Instructions?
What clock movements do you recommend for the 12 inch clock template?
Love It. I just ordered 3 templates! Thanks so much! Can’t wait to get started!
Plus I didn’t see a link to the Total Boat Honey. Can you send me the link? Thanks Again! 🤝
What's the difference between Howard's cutting board oil or conditioner and total boat wood honey? Thank you
Howards is mineral oil (food grade). Total Boat wood honey is a mix of different food grade oils and stabilizers. Just provides a nicer finish IMO
Where's part 1?
love these videos do you have a list of the router bits that you use somewhere at your website
We do have a list on our site, here is a copy of that answer from our FAQ page:
The majority of our templates are external shaping templates where you want your material to take the final shape of the template (such as a handle, charcuterie board or wine caddy etc). For these templates, any flush trim router bit with a guide bearing will do. You will want a bit 1/8" or 1/4" in diameter. You can purchase lower cost/quality ones from Amazon.com, or you can use a higher end bit such as the Amana Tool 46297 spiral trim down-cut bit.
If you are wanting to create wood inlays (like butterflies or bowties) you will want a router bit inlay kit that can cut the inlay piece itself as well as the matching pocket to receive the inlay in your project. For this we recommend the Whiteside 9500 Solid Brass Inlay Kit.
Finally, if you are wanting to simply pocket out a shape or inlay (to backfill with resin for example), and you dont want to go through the full depth of your material, then you will want to use a plunge router in conjunction with the Amana Tool 45983 radiused plunge bit (for rounded interior edges), or the Amana Tool 45460-S straight cut plunge bit (for straight interior edges).
Hello I love your products. While using one of the templates and a Yonico 33206q Bottom Bearing Ultra-Performance Compression Flush Trim Router Bit 1/4-Inch Shank. I had to switch bits (top baring and bottom) based on wood grain. I had an 1/8” to take off. It’s hard for me to know which way to go. I was using walnut. One side with top bearing then switch to bottom bearing. My question is do you have any tips so that I’m not praying that it doesn’t fly out of my hands. I see in this video you just fly through it. I have watched other videos on RUclips but it’s still hard to read the grain. It wasn’t mentioned in my his video so with these bits mentioned do I not have to worry about wood grain. Sorry for the long question. Love watching your series of videos.
Hi Matthew. I have never considered the wood grain. When I am using the router table and one of our templates there are two considerations. 1. Make sure you are going against the direction of the rotation of your router bit with your piece, and 2. Start at a section of your piece that has the smallest amount of wood (when measured from the edge of the template). Typically once you get the bearing to touch the router template, it's smooth sailing from there.
I have a couple of templates so far. I do not have a router table so I’m using my hand router with flush trim bit. The issue I have is the router on a couple of times have chipped a chunk of the template. Any suggestions?
It's possibly from the template and your wood piece going off kilter (angle) when running it along the bottom of your router. It's definitely much easier to do on a router table. You also want to make sure you are "approaching" the bit the right way, slow, opposite the direction of its spin, and with the part of your material that is thinnest (as in thin between the template and the side of the wood). This will help reduce any sort of kickback that could occur.
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