Dude you are a great person to help ppl like me, I had to stop working due to diabetes. I lost half my foot and got alot medical stuff going on, I'm doing epoxy tables and cutting boards starting with cutting boards. I'm starting to get all the tools together and I'm going to order the molds off of the company you get them from. I really appreciate you going step by step you're a good teacher I'm going to follow every video, I need to know where to get all my epoxy and molds from what do you suggest
I have purchased several of your molds and they are amazing. I made my own templates with resin, but I will probably purchase some of your templates because they seem to be more sturdy then the ones I made. Love the videos and I look forward to some new molds in the future.
Awesome jeff. The templates made from solid resin do a fine job honestly, and you can make them thicker (1/2", 3/4" etc). Our templates are solid acrylic, but are only 1/4". So it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish I suppose!
Hi, got a quick question, I have epoxied thousands of cups with alumilite clear cast epoxy, can I also use that for a wood epoxy board.? Or do I need a special ? Thank you so much, getting ready to order a mold now❤
Hola muy bonitos los nuevos moldes, algo diferente a lo rutinario. Pregunto, qué es lo que le ponen al final, para realzar más los colores y darle un mejor brillo? en el traductor me sale que es miel, pero que yo sepa la miel es dulce, es comestible, agradezco me indiquen qué líquido es y dónde se puede comprar, si lo venden en amazon, etc. Saludos
Good tutorial. Bought one of your molds and haven't used it yet. Would need to see several boards to get to the point that the mold is paid for especially if the resin cost and labor are included. But, I do like your mold.
I have been watching a lot of your videos and have been going through your 11 part series for making cutting boards. I have been finding it very helpful. Not sure if my question has been answered in one of the videos I have not watched yet, but I was wondering if I am making a wood and epoxy cutting board can I still stain/polish the wood to bring out more of its colors? If so should that be done before or after adding the epoxy to the mold?
Hi Sean, Thanks for checking in. That's actually a tough question because it depends on how you are going to finish it. For example, in most cases when people are using wood and resin in our molds they are going to demold it, then run the piece through a planer to get the wood and resin level. Doing so will basically remove the top layer of wood, and thus the stain or sealant you applied, if you did it before putting it in the mold. So, in general, you can stain the wood after you have planed and sanded, but you want to avoid getting as much stain on the epoxy as possible. The other thing to consider is, if its a charcuterie or serving board, you don't want to use stan at all, just a natural oil or wax sealer. Stain is most definitely not food grade (at least none I am familiar with).
You do not have to. You can use them with just resin if youd like. However, due to their size and depth most people combine wood and resin when using them.
The one question I can’t seem to get an answer for: Do you have CNC files for the various designs? I’d much rather cut out the wood to fit the mold on a CNC rather than using a handheld router and template.
Hi. We do have CNC vector files if you have purchased the molds from us. Just email us with your order details and let us know what model numbers you need vectors for.
A silicone mold, no matter where its from, has a limited life. They do not last forever. Any company telling you that its reusable indefinitely is outright lying to get you to buy. I have seen a few 'competitors' who have imported molds do this, clearly they do not use their own product and likely just believe what their supplier is telling them. In reality, epoxy resin is very harsh on silicone both chemically and thermally. Now, some of our customers get 50 or 60 uses out of their molds when they are well taken care of, and use a slow setting (low heat) epoxy resin. However, I typically see between 20 and 30 uses before the mold starts to show signs of failing. This could be getting a brittle interior surface, or starting to tear out (small chunks of the mold coming out with your project). This doesn't mean its completely unusable, but its no longer perfect. Further, if you were using a urethane resin / polyester resin those are less abrasive to silicone molds and the molds will last much longer.
Resin, when fully set is hardened plastic. Usually BPA or some variation of this. BPA is considered food safe by the FDA, but BPA leeching (inside of cans) has been linked to certain health issues. HOWEVER, you are not CUTTING on the plastic part of the board, these aren't really cutting boards, they are charcuterie/serving boards. Cutting on the resin part of one of these boards would leave it scared. Finally, food would not be sitting on the resin long enough to see any leeching effect that you would in a BPA lined can for example. Hope this helps.
Thanks sr I live in ny but you don’t have any online courses or personal? I want learning like hoobi! I keep watching your videos! Sorry for my English
Dude you are a great person to help ppl like me, I had to stop working due to diabetes. I lost half my foot and got alot medical stuff going on, I'm doing epoxy tables and cutting boards starting with cutting boards. I'm starting to get all the tools together and I'm going to order the molds off of the company you get them from. I really appreciate you going step by step you're a good teacher I'm going to follow every video, I need to know where to get all my epoxy and molds from what do you suggest
So many molds so little time and epoxy! love that they all have a matching template too!!!
Looks Absolutely Amazing! You Make It It Look Easy Sir! Thanks So Much For Your Videos! 🤝
Happy to help!
As always, you make it look so simple and beautiful.
Thanks Ray!
I have purchased several of your molds and they are amazing. I made my own templates with resin, but I will probably purchase some of your templates because they seem to be more sturdy then the ones I made. Love the videos and I look forward to some new molds in the future.
Awesome jeff. The templates made from solid resin do a fine job honestly, and you can make them thicker (1/2", 3/4" etc). Our templates are solid acrylic, but are only 1/4". So it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish I suppose!
Hi, got a quick question, I have epoxied thousands of cups with alumilite clear cast epoxy, can I also use that for a wood epoxy board.? Or do I need a special ? Thank you so much, getting ready to order a mold now❤
beautiful boards!
Hola muy bonitos los nuevos moldes, algo diferente a lo rutinario. Pregunto, qué es lo que le ponen al final, para realzar más los colores y darle un mejor brillo? en el traductor me sale que es miel, pero que yo sepa la miel es dulce, es comestible, agradezco me indiquen qué líquido es y dónde se puede comprar, si lo venden en amazon, etc. Saludos
Are these available in the UK?
Amazing molds.where to buy your molds.i am from india.
what should the best moisture reading in the wood be for a successful pour??
I think 10% or under is generally OK. It does vary depending on your region.
Good tutorial. Bought one of your molds and haven't used it yet. Would need to see several boards to get to the point that the mold is paid for especially if the resin cost and labor are included. But, I do like your mold.
For sure. It really depends on the value of your time, many of our customers say the mold is paid for within 3 projects.
Vocês enviam nesses moldes para o Brasil
I have been watching a lot of your videos and have been going through your 11 part series for making cutting boards. I have been finding it very helpful. Not sure if my question has been answered in one of the videos I have not watched yet, but I was wondering if I am making a wood and epoxy cutting board can I still stain/polish the wood to bring out more of its colors? If so should that be done before or after adding the epoxy to the mold?
Hi Sean, Thanks for checking in. That's actually a tough question because it depends on how you are going to finish it. For example, in most cases when people are using wood and resin in our molds they are going to demold it, then run the piece through a planer to get the wood and resin level. Doing so will basically remove the top layer of wood, and thus the stain or sealant you applied, if you did it before putting it in the mold. So, in general, you can stain the wood after you have planed and sanded, but you want to avoid getting as much stain on the epoxy as possible. The other thing to consider is, if its a charcuterie or serving board, you don't want to use stan at all, just a natural oil or wax sealer. Stain is most definitely not food grade (at least none I am familiar with).
Wait, so do you have to use wood with the molds or no?
You do not have to. You can use them with just resin if youd like. However, due to their size and depth most people combine wood and resin when using them.
The one question I can’t seem to get an answer for: Do you have CNC files for the various designs? I’d much rather cut out the wood to fit the mold on a CNC rather than using a handheld router and template.
Hi. We do have CNC vector files if you have purchased the molds from us. Just email us with your order details and let us know what model numbers you need vectors for.
I did it myself thanks to Woodglut.
You only expect a mold to be good for say 20 uses ?
A silicone mold, no matter where its from, has a limited life. They do not last forever. Any company telling you that its reusable indefinitely is outright lying to get you to buy. I have seen a few 'competitors' who have imported molds do this, clearly they do not use their own product and likely just believe what their supplier is telling them. In reality, epoxy resin is very harsh on silicone both chemically and thermally. Now, some of our customers get 50 or 60 uses out of their molds when they are well taken care of, and use a slow setting (low heat) epoxy resin. However, I typically see between 20 and 30 uses before the mold starts to show signs of failing. This could be getting a brittle interior surface, or starting to tear out (small chunks of the mold coming out with your project). This doesn't mean its completely unusable, but its no longer perfect. Further, if you were using a urethane resin / polyester resin those are less abrasive to silicone molds and the molds will last much longer.
Thanks for that.
I was thinking about soap molds that last for years.
I see the difference now.
@@Xanderbelle Oh yeah a soap mold will last longer than you will! Put epoxy in it... not so much.
A question: Aren't food cutting boards made of resin dangerous to health?
My question is why I have seen several people saying that it is dangerous
Resin, when fully set is hardened plastic. Usually BPA or some variation of this. BPA is considered food safe by the FDA, but BPA leeching (inside of cans) has been linked to certain health issues. HOWEVER, you are not CUTTING on the plastic part of the board, these aren't really cutting boards, they are charcuterie/serving boards. Cutting on the resin part of one of these boards would leave it scared. Finally, food would not be sitting on the resin long enough to see any leeching effect that you would in a BPA lined can for example. Hope this helps.
Thanks sr I live in ny but you don’t have any online courses or personal? I want learning like hoobi! I keep watching your videos! Sorry for my English
@@alldones.a302 We have a free epoxy resin course here -> craftedelements.com/erwbvs/