How to set up your Fender Stratocaster with Kip Bradford
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Useful tips from Kip Bradford on how to set up properly your Stratocaster. Strings, tremolo, intonation, truss rod and much more details covered in this video.
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![The Perfect Stratocaster Trem / Vibrato Setup [Floating, Flat Or Blocked?]](/img/1.gif)
Good video. Thanks.
I did notice one error. When Kip was setting the intonation on the 6th or low E string, he found that the E was flat at the 12th fret (octave) and would correct it by moving the saddle back further! This would lengthen the string between the 12th and saddle therefore making the note at the 12th fret even flatter.... If a note comes up flat at the 12th fret you would shorten the string by moving the saddle closer to the 12th fret, raising the pitch.
Pure gold. The best explanation, minimum tools, theory, step by step, in order, accounting for different models, complete explanation to be found on the Internet. Period.
3:15 Change Your Strings
9:52 Adjust The Tremolo
19:55 Rough Intonation
22:20 Neck Relief
29:10 Adjust Your Action
33:19 Pickup Heigh
35:34 Final Intonation
Thank you so much.
+FilziSH you're a saint
+FilziSH yes thank you..
Adjust the nut height after you've adjusted the neck relief and string height. This is an essential part of the setup that for some reason wasn't covered in the video.
+Davilo Olivad what the heck are u talking about??? just how exsctly do you adjust the nut. the nut doesnt move . are you talking about making sure your nut slots are big eniugh for rhe strings
This video is precisely what I was looking for. I learned more in 45 minutes watching this then I have in a couple hours reading blogs and articles. VERY well done!
As a new Strat player and guitarist for that matter, you've demystified the setup process so I am confident enough to fine tune my own instrument without sweating bullets or worrying that I will kill her.
Thanks again man!
This video is helpful and most of the material is well articulated and demonstrated. When he emphasizes the proper order of the steps that are to performed, I took paper notes. My lessons start in two weeks and this stratocaster will be ready.🎉.
Amazing. THE definitive guide to Strat setup. Thank you,
Just recently picked up the Squier Classic Vibe Stratocaster '60s (3-Tone Sunburst). It played / sounded ok out of the box but I knew it could be better. I watched the video and did the tweaks and adjustments and WOW. My guitar sounds and plays awesome now. Thanks Kip!
A very GOOD,INTELLIGENT VIDEO : lots of DETAILED instructions; patiently discussed;
clear and consume .
You do not act "hip" to get your points across,very refreshing to hear.These hipsters are more interested in their act and egoism
than instructing and teaching!!!!!!!
Thank you so MUCH.
Kip,
Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your help - I have two Strats and your video worked great on both my guitars. THANKS !
This was SO helpful! I finally got my MiM Strat set up correctly. It feels way better and no more buzz.
I have viewed every setup video I could find This is the easiest to follow, most complete version available. All the time complaints given are probably from those that never read instructions and aren't obsessed with tone anyway. Great Style, Great Video!
Same here. By far the best set up video I've found after watching at least a dozen.
Super video. Kip made it straight forward and uncomplicated. Ready to set up my Stratocaster with confidence.
I like the way you describe things, and in depth, and you don't blast through it.
I'm glad you described how to set up the bridge as 'floating' rather than 'grounded' as for diving only with the tremolo. 'Grounded' might give you more stable tuning but I thought it over and at this point I would rather set it up to dive and climb (hence floating), after all the tremolo action is what set Strats apart from some of the others. I know its up to the individual.
I like how you use the feeler guage to get that 1/8" that Fender recommends between the back of the bridge and the top of the Strat; I am an imperial guy. Metric doesn't have any personality.
Thanks a lot for your help. I will probably have questions as I go through all this during my setup.
Wow! Thanks for a truly excellent tutorial on Strat setup! I have 11 other guitars including my '69 Les Paul which I bought brand new in '69 (oh yeah, and I'm 69 now, lol), but I just bought my 1st Strat second hand,two weeks ago, and I am going to follow your instructions to the letter to give it the setup that it needs and deserves!
Thanks again!
Awesome video!!!! I recently purchased PRS and Les Paul guitars, had just about given up on my 79 Fender Strat due to various issues.... Followed step by step your set up procedures and what do you know?!!? It's now a completely different guitar, enjoyable to play again! Spent $48 at home depot buying the tools I needed.... Money well spent!!!! Thanks again guys!!!!
I've always set mine by feel, intonation and getting No fret buzz, and I do agree that a floyd rose is difficult to setup, it takes patiences, I had to set mine up last week after changing string gauge.
As I have just started Playing Guitar after a 3 Year break I'm always looking for tips, this video is accurate and Informative
I do appreciate Kip taking their time to teach others
It basically rules out learning techniques in different tunings because you're always switching and retuning depending on the original recording. Other than that a rose system is one of the greatest and elegant locking nut tremelos. A real leap forward in the world of rock guitar.
This is definitely worth watching all the way through. I just setup my Fender American Strat, and it sounds like sweet, sweet butter. My only tip is to loosen the your strings first, before adjusting the bridge saddles in the Intonation section. Thanks Kip. Keep it up!
He did at (37:24)
Good point. Also should loosen strings before increasing saddle height when setting string height.
Overall...Thank You...I have set up a Squire Bullet Stratocaster HSS with your video and it sounds great! I was so disappointed with my purchase...I was told this was a great beginner/entry level electric guitar. I plugged this brand new guitar into my amp and said...oh my god...re-tune, play, re-tune...then I realized...this guitar has not been set up at all. After following your advise...I replaced the strings (not knowing how long they have been on the guitar) went through all your set up...It did take some time but with Eric Clapton playing in the back ground it was effortless. This guitar sounds great!! Thank You...
Great video, thanks! Some great things I heard while watching this video. When discussing the neck adjustment, "I tend to be lazy overall." While talking about string height, "We're gonna recheck the G string, I'm gonna check my side first."
Definitely my favorite set up instructional vid so far. Thanks for the thorough explanation!
Thanks I just inherited my buddy's 1997 USA made Texas Roadhouse. He hardly played it and I can see why. I noticed the tremolo system was out of spec. the gap was just under 1/4. He said that's how it came from the Factory. Thank you Its perfect and stays in tune now. Thank you-Thank you, Tom In Michigan
Slight correction: there's a 5th Tremolo System Fender used back in 1986, a Schaler Locking Trem (only the Nut was locking). In the Fender Manual that's online they refer to it as the Type II Trem System. The std Synchronized Trem was referred t as the Type I Trem system.
I have that Schaler Trem on my '86, MIJ Strat & I love it. You load the strings the regular way w/ the Ball Ends still attached but the Trem has Roller Saddles & Fine Tuners at each string. Again, only the Nut is 'locked' and it stays in Tune just fine, no matter how much you bend - Up or Down.
I know this is a lot later, but if you don't need the tremolo active in both, try this very inexpensive upgrade. Just get a brass pipe connector ring of dimensions 3 inches by 5/16th inches, and saw it in half across the radius. Polish off the sharp edges and tap it gently into the space between the tremolo block and the body. This eliminates the 'tonky' midrange caused by the body cavity, which Leo Fender never designed to be an acoustic enhancement. You will now hear a full clear midrange, and a greatly increased sustain. I did this on a 1974 Mann strat copy and actually took the brass connector out, played the guitar, then put it back in, because I thought it was my imagination. Cheaper than a new pair of strings, and if you're good with a hacksaw, you get two 'hardtail' upgrade.
Agree, this was an excellent explanation with demo how to do it right.
After you've removed strings and springs, place guitar flush on table. Release all 6 screws a little bit. Now tighten each screw until it starts to lift the back of the tremolo unit from the body. Now unscrew until it lays against the body again. After that, release 4 inner screws for another 1/2 turn, and leave outer ones intact. If you can, lubricate the holes where tremolo plate lays on screws, than adjust the spring tension so that when you pull up G string it goes up to Bb.
I bought a cheap Strat knockoff by bridgecraft I believe I'll try your video out I'm trying to set it up thank you very much very informative great video!
I came across a beat up strat that had the saddles tilted presumably to move the string (low E) inward a bit. You did not mention this so I'm going to set this up with no tilt. Thanks for a great video.
Just saying it's all on fender's website if people want a text version. This video is super useful to see the how to, the text is just a reminder...
Actually, these measurements should not be taken on a table at all, unless you play your guitar on a table. i have been a tech for ages, and all of my measurements are taken while on a strap around the neck and shoulder, in the position you'd play it in. Kip has such excellent info, i hate to mention any flaws, but i was taught, "You adjust it as you play it."
Each way, whether on the neck lift, flat on the table, or hanging on a strap around your neck yields different results. In order to be most accurate, i humbly submit that you must make adjustments to the way it is held when played, not to the standard of laying on a bench. My apologies, Kip, you do an invaluable service, but on this point, we do differ.
All the best,
-trout
Edit: i had forgotten he had mentioned that playing position is the best to adjust in. My apologies for my lack of attention...all the best Kip, you offer great advice, and i was mistaken. -trout
+Kilgore Trout man, help me please!
what can I do if after the intonation, the open string and its 12th fret sound perfect, but other frets sound flat or sharper than they should?
thx!
What inkey2 says....that is always vital. i am in the process of creating my own channel, to discuss these topics. i will say that even with fresh, fully stretched in strings, your guitar will not have perfect notes at all spots of the neck. The guitar is a very imperfect instrument. There are now guitars with staggered frets, that look like crooked spaghetti, which come as close to full neck intonation, but it presents a problem with bending and other techniques.
i suppose such a guitar would possibly work fine for a rhythm only player, but even the way i play, which is rhythm, plus riffs, would not work with such a fret array. If you play over an hour a day, you should change strings weekly. If you are gigging often, you may need to change after each gig, as your sweat, and dirt will get in between the windings, and it will corrode. The best thing you can do for keeping them fresh a bit longer is to spray finger ease on the strings before playing. It acts as a barrier of sorts, then after playing, spray some of the same on a lint free cloth, or dual side string cleaner, and wipe your strings down well.
My first video is going to be a comparison of guitar strings for various guitars, and which last best for some guitars, and some that don't necessarily last longer, but are a better choice for certain guitars, i.e. Fenders or others with floating Vibrato blocks. If you are playing a non-vibrato, or commonly, but incorrectly called non tremolo block guitar, i highly recommend Cleartones, not Elixirs. Elixirs are dandy for acoustic, but Cleartones are treated against corrosion, rather than polymer coated.
So far, in over a year of my documented testing, they have lasted 2-3x longer than regular Ernie Ball, D'Addarios or DR's. Not to say they are bad strings, and 3 sets of any of those are just a little more than one set of Cleartones, but there is the benefit of not having to change strings as often. i have used the Cleartones even longer, but that is by being diligent with keeping them clean, as i mentioned earlier. These are the strings i use in my Studio, and recommend to clients, whether they are here for recording, or for guitar work. If they are set on a favorite brand, i put on what they request, but i do promote the Cleartones (not being paid to) because they have served me so well.
On a Vibrato block Fender, i stay strictly with Fender Super Bullets, simply because they seat in the block perfectly. Ball end strings can change position under tension, and tuning can slip easily, in my experience. they don't have the lasting time of Cleartones, but they are made to fit the guitar, and that makes it worth changing strings more often, to keep tuning solid. My upcoming video will go into more detail. Just send me a msg, and i will send you a link when i post the video.
In a long winded way, that is me agreeing with Inkey2's comment about fresh strings. The last comment i will make....some guitars will play closer to full neck intonation than others, however, that can vary with the same model guitars made in the same factory in the same year. Perhaps The Graphite composite guitars, or 3D printed guitars will be more consistent, since wood will always vary. Humidity and Temperature will change tuning and intonation. A cool room will cause contraction, and your tuning will be sharp, across the board, opposite in a warm room, and on and on. i hope to offer more help with my soon to be channel.
Be Well, All,
-trout
Trout, thank you for being courteous and respectful in your criticism. Too many people think they have be rude and crude in their comments, I guess either because they think that makes their argument stronger (it doesn't) or they think they sound tough and smart (they don't). They just come off as immature and ignorant and boring. Boring is the worst.
He does mention this at 36:15
the new Mayer PRS addresses that and is perfect fret by fret. they spent 2 years finely adjusting each fret my micrometers. on top of that, i am just yanking your whammy bar.
Thank you so much, Kip. I found your technique to be the best on RUclips. Your locations for measurements got me out of a pickle in the middle of a snowstorm!
Great Video by Kip. I have multiple Strats so this will help me very much in the long run.
Best Strat set up vid I've seen, by far.
ThankX 4 your time to show us how to adjust a Strat
great video.. just a little catch: @37:12 it says that if the 12th fret is flat compared to the open string, the saddle needs to be moved back. the saddle needs in fact to be moved forward in that case, thus shortening the length of the string for a higher pitch. good luck, have fun!
also, for adjusting the action at the 17th fret, the height of the nut could be checked too.. sometimes a new/replaced nut will be higher than a worn out one and adjusting the action with open stings will produce buzzing when playing the guitar (once the string sits on a fret it's height will be too low and one is tempted to readjust the neck relief). i don't recall what's the actual number for that (first fret) but i'm sure someone will reply with the answer (1/64 - 2/64 for low E maybe?).
* if all the sluts in the nut are at the same height but it needs adjustment, sanding the bottom of the nut is easier than using a special file for each slut corresponding to each string. if the nut has a radius just like the neck, taping sandpaper (200-320grid) between the first and 2nd fret and using that for sanding down the nut will give it the proper radius.
Awesome... changed out my strings, and the new ones don't have the crispiness of the old worn out set.. ( same gage )
Stratchin, returning have helped greatly, I lost my patience, for now, but this video brought my knowledge level of my guitar adjustment s up.100 percent.
All my respect Mr.Bradford , and many many thanks for you , you help me much to set my strato (copy) but after setting it function very well . on parcel you a very good result to yours vidéo , thanks again.
MERCI Beaucoup
Best regards
Very Thorough and informative - Thank You!
Strat setup is a lot easier if you use a block on the tremolo. Make a wooden block for the desired rear height you want, ( I use 3/32 instead of 1/8) loosen the claw screws, and put the wooden block behind the tremolo block. Adjust everything, then tighten the claw until the block falls out. Tweak until tuned
I've also seen guys use a stack of business cards (1/8") as well. Most people have those laying around.
Just to clarify, the wooden block goes between the tremolo and the cavity wall in the back of the guitar, not the front of the guitar where you're taking the measurements.
You are correct. I was just about to make this comment. Also, I usually intonate with my pickups lowered then do pickup hight adjustments.
AWESOME! do one also for the Tele, please !!!
Kip, I used the methods outlined here and things went smoothly. I have a small suggestion in regards to the adjusting the Tremolo that you may find useful.
Instead of using flat feeler gauges as you illustrate, I purchased the type that are a bent almost like an "L" shape, then I measured out 1/8 of an inch as you outline leaving a little less than 1/8 and to fill the difference used a little bit of blue painters tape on the tip of the gauges. The tape holds the 1/8 and protects the body.
Leave the capo on while adjusting the action. This eliminates nut height as a factor. After adjusting the neck relief and string height (action) remove the capo and measure string height at the first fret using feeler guages. It should be in the neighborhood of .018" - .022" . To lower the height you file the string slots, to raise it you can either shim it or replace it. I suggest watching a video on how to do this before attempting to adjust the nut height as it's an easy job to botch (but not that hard to learn).
very nice video, master class in fender setup
Great! Information! Nailed it. Thank you.
Thanks for this video, I'm going to try and set up my strat, as at the moment I'm trying to play it as it came out of the box, the only thing shredding is the ends of my fingers, the trem is pegged all the way to the back with no gap between the bridge and the body. So definitely needs a set up and due to the lockdown I can't take it to a tech, in some ways it's a good thing, I learn how to set up my instrument, I will take measurements of how it's currently set, so if I goof I can at least reset it.
There's nothing 'wrong' w/ your Trem setup. What you have is the 'Synchronized' Setup where you can only bend down, the Fender Strat in the Video has a Floating Trem setup where you can bend Up, 1/2 a semi-tone. Both are shipped from the Fender, depending on YOUR model & where it was made: Mexico, USA, Japan, or Indonesia & China for 'Fender' Squire Strats.
I've always shied away from setting up my own axe for fear of totally screwing it up (isn't that what guitar techs are for anyway? lol) but I found this video inspiring and detailed enough to have a go myself. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise with us!
What an excellent video. Thanks for helping me and so many other fine tune our strats perfectly :-)
I totally agree with you. I tend to call it tremolo just because my friends will understand me. People should know the difference, just as you said: 'Vibrato is pitch, tremolo is volume.'
Thanks for watching ;)
john, you said some pretty stupid things in the video, that goes against basic physics. the bass strings can not pull the bridge out of alignment, and only the total tension matters because the bridge is stiff and the springs are inside the 2 outside mounting screws. you are spreading the same kind on nonsense carl verheyen spreads. he is a great player but would fail high school physics. please look into a little physics before talking nonsense.
This really helped me out. Thanks a ton! My strat is sound great thanks to the thorough instructions.
Great video I learned alot thanks so much
Thank you so much for this video, my old guitar sounds and plays much nicer now!
Kip, learned a lot , thanks! Thanks for posting John!
Thanks for being so informative Kip.
Covered everything anyone would ever need to know.
Excellent Vid. Many thanks.
Nice,easy to understand procedure. Not all of these "setup" videos I have found are giving out correct information on RUclips. This all seems to make sense. The only thing that disturbs me, and it's not your fault, it just sort of became the de facto truth is calling the bridge system a tremolo and not a vibrato. Vibrato is pitch, tremolo is volume. So calling the whammy bar a trem is wrong. But it is so widespread and prevalent that it will never be reversed, so I should just get used to it
Thanks for the instruction Mate, especially about setting the floating bridge. Very helpful.
One teeny problem.... Here in Britain we're gonna have to just guess the thickness of a "nickel"...
Here you go mate, a new US Nickle ($.05 cents) is 1.9mm thick
Clearance between trem plate and face of guitar should be 1/8" for American Standard strats and 3/32" for vintage style strats.
Awesome video! Thanks! I was able to do my own set up!
This a great video. Especially for people just getting into playing electric guitar. I took me a long time of playing to get a lot of this knowledge (mostly nobody told me and I never asked). Great video a lot of information. Thanks for posting. (He could have checked for spelling errors but hey nobody is perfect)
Many many THANKSSSSSS Mr. Bradford , it's a manifique setup BRAVOOOO
the vintage bridge is the best trem ever designed...i used to be all about Floyd's back in the day..the vintage bridge does everything the Floyd does, except for very low dives..I've used them for years without any issues of tuning or intonation..the arms are prone to bending with aggressive use, so i would recommend the upgrade to the Callaham trem block.
Really useful video, thanks a lot! I've recently bought a squire strat, and I wasn't completelly happy about how it felt during playing. Now it feels like a totally different guitar, it's so much more comfortable!
I tend to take the average of all the different people offering this type of tutorial so I have
a consensus, but I definitely wanted to say I like your presentation style.
(ps. "height")
Very clear and precise. Thank you very much!
Excellent and so informative - makes you realise what an amazing guitar the Fender Stratocaster is - a design icon which has stood the test of time 👍
Yep I'm a strat player and especially FENDER BASS player. I don't know why but on bass guitar only fender or fender style
.
Thank you very informative. No need for guitar center techs anymore.
Thanks. This is an awesome lesson. Rebuilding mine and adding a few things. This helped a lot. :)
Very informative and professional for sure Kip!!!!
To further confuse the issue, Fender amps have an effect that they label Vibrato which is actually a volume affected sound:)
very helpful video, thanks so much for taking the time to make this!
Hi Mikey,
Yes thanks - we are in agreement (another reader spotted the mistake too)
All the best
Jeff Jeffery
VERY PROFESSIONAL !!!
WELL DONE , SIR !!!!!!!!!!
Great video I don't want to take my guitar to a tech I'll try it myself with this video thank you sir.
How'd it go?
Excellent video, thank you
nice video...
tnx for your time !!!
hugs from Brazil
great video! One thing I find weird is how Fender seats the tremolo springs centered to the middle attachment and how now they're straight across how you have them set. Any thoughts on why they set it up this way at factory? I do appreciate that you dedicated such a large portion of the video to the tremolo system, as it is the most unique and confusing thing on strats imo.
that being said I love what you've shown me. It'll really help, thanks
Excellent tips.
On your final intonation on the (E) after tuning down & adjusting your saddle you should always set your string before tuning it.
the best how to on the internet.thank u
Great video,thanks for all your effort!
Lubricate the nut heavily with graphite oil or pencil lead, put a maximum of 2 turns of string on each tuner, lubricate the underneath of string tree with oil as well, and you won't have any problems with your vintage strat staying in tune.
Great video, learned alot, appreciated the detail, finer points. Thanks!
Excelente muy profesional muchas gracias, fue de mucha ayuda. Perdón no ingles.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Great video, solid explanations Kip.
Great vid. thanks for taking the time to make
Very good video; just one thing - the weight of the headstock will pull the neck, so always do relief & action adjustments with the instrument in playing poistion, not lying on its back.
I prefer to do most fine tuning with the guitar perpendicular to the table, because I find the weight between where the body hits the table and the headstock is hitting the riser creates slight bow.
Great video, lots of information!
Thanks for a very good video. My cheapo Strat copy now sounds noticeably less crappy than it did and is easier to play.
Two issues: 1 - there is no closeup of the "Parallel Check" on setting up the Tremolo so I have no idea what it is that is parallel to what. 2 - It would help if you would explain why you offset the Saddle for the diameter of the string. You say does that make sense.. well it doesn't. Could you please elaborate for both issues? Thanks for any help.
the Guy is very informative thank you for this.
Kip, very informative. Do you have a video showing string change and adjustments for a mid 80’s MIJ strat with a system 1 trem?
Thanks!
Thank you - this has been quite helpful!
Very helpful, thank you.
Very very good video, wealth of information I thought!! Here is my question! My Fender tremolo is sucked right down to the body of the guitar both the spring side and the six screws as well. I would like to restore is to the Fender spec’s for the “floating” bridge, but I don’t know where to start! Could you please help me out!! Thank you Sir!!
Great video! Thanks!
Excellent. Thanks a million.