I'd just like to say that I really love the way KnifeCenter's videos make me feel. I can't remember a time I watched one of these and did not chuckle or come away from it with a smile. Thank you
People get too hung up over the latest super steel, Micarta, flipper, thumb stud and other things. In the early 1980s, I bought a Swiss Army knife (Wenger Delemont) at my college. That's something that you won't see on sale at campuses today. It's the Pioneer model. I've used that knife off and on since then and still use it today for various chores. The blade has need to be resharpened numerous times through the years on whetstones, the Spyderco Sharpmaker and a Work Sharp belt sander. It still holds a good edge, and when I need a screwdriver or to punch a hole to start a screw, there it is. One of the best buys ever.
On the other hand, part of the reason we even have the option of buying the newest super steel pocketknife for $120 is because all those people who shell out
Knowing more about your knife helps to validate the purchase of it. If you call it just a knife then like many of our folks and grand folks you would only need like 2. But introducing the these variations also helps to invite new knife buyers and get them hooked.
I'm 55 and the old yellow handle cases was one if not the most popular knives when I was young. Any kind of case was popular and most carried them but the yellow was more popular because of its price. Thanks Dave.
i got a Buck 110 for my birthday in 1979 for turning 10 and reaching double digits. i wore it when i could get away with. of course the older i got the more i carried, the Buck 110 has become my everyday carry now for over 30 years. I'm sure my son will get good use out of it as well. still in real good shape because it is a Buck, and i didn't beat it up.
The Otter Mercator K55 apparently is pretty timeless. I still have my Grandfathers version of the knife, it was in his desk drawer when he passed away some 50 years ago. I'm 71. That version only has metal handles instead of the fancy ones DCA had.
Best episode ever. Learn some things. I hear a lot about people using knives for cutting cardboard. I’m a knife collector, and i use a few of them. Me personally I use a box cutter to cut cardboard. Replacing razor blades for me is better than using the knives in my collection. I do have users, but for other tasks. Just my thoughts.
When sharpening, I think of the burr as akin to a side effect, byproduct, or symptom (disregarding the negative connotations of that word) of removing metal from the blade's egde. The burr is an easy, consistent way to "read" the blade edge, and in turn judge your progress while sharpening. With it, many people are better able to know when to stop removing metal from each side. However, it's totally feasible to sharpen to the same level without even being aware of the burr. You can accomplish that if you have an ability to see fine detail on the edge, either with very good eyesight or via magnification. It's also possible to get a tactile sense of when a side is "done;" depending on blade steel and whetstone material. For most of my own knives and stones, I can feel when I'm at the same angle as the bevel, and I can usually feel and feel or hear when the burr is forming. Also, if held up to a light, burrs and other edge imperfections can become quite noticeable. Without any of these methods, though, it's completely possible to still get there, flying blind. You end up with a blade that's just as sharp, only with a little more time and metal gone. In that situation, when "flying blind," the technique necessarily has to involve removing _more_ than enough metal, so that you can be certain to have removed enough without any way of checking your progress. Personally, I didn't know about the whole burr thing, which is probably how I developed an ability to judge everything with a combination of sight, sound, and feel. Eventually, I learned the bonus move of feeling for the burr, and added that to the toolbox of sharpening skills. Now it's just one part of the process, and I just feel or look for a burr when I'm not otherwise already certain it's there. Hope this helps someone.
I think an important aspect of those who get a burr and go through the whole progression vs a butcher... There's "good" and "good enough." Being that those are working knives that are constantly touched up and used for hours and hours I'm sure most butchers, like any other real working knife, go for "good enough." Where as a hobbyist many are going to go for what brings him happiness, IE truly good.
@@Ajaxykins -- The knives butchers are using tend to be made of very soft steel. Try 'steeling' an edge back to 'good enough' on a knife made from a modern super steel. It's never going to happen. Personally, I can feel a burr when I sharpen on my diamond stones or my 320 Kuro-maki, but on my 1000 and 5000 grit Shapton Glass? It never happens.
@@twatmunro Check out the article "what-does-steeling-do-part-1" over at science of sharp which YT infuriatingly won't let me link. Steels do indeed work on modern super steels, but maybe not metal ones for everything. Steels don't simply move or realign edge, it actually removes metal via adhesive wear (vs abrasive wear of a stone). "Steels" made of ceramic or carbide (like the speedy sharp used at the correct angle) will certainly do the job on knives made out of anything less than tungsten or ceramic. A regular metal butchers steel will also work on s35vn and XHP from my experience and should also work on m4/cruwear/s90v but I haven't experienced that myself.
That beginning was so much fun! I think some reviews of the not so popular stuff from your stock would be cool. The more obscure things. Should make it a small segment of one of the standard videos. The things people don’t realize exist
I watch the Bearded Butcher too. They are usually just honing their knives. Edge isn’t damaged, it’s just lost that razors edge. That’s why they just have to touch them up.
Love the history review. In fact, I'd love to flick through the whole catalogue. That aside, goes to show that some designs are just so good they never die. I love my trusty BK-7 works hard and easy to maintain. Seen me through many a camping expedition. I also have a few Case knives from when I first started collecting some 35+ years ago and thumb studs and flippers weren't really thing - yet. My trapper and sod busters have been used and sharpened to point where they are only for display now. Sharp blades all.
In my opinion the knife that stands the test of time is hands down the bm 551. The most perfect design as far as dimensions. Pivot to thumb stud distance, pocket clip to thumb stud. It's the Glock of knives, it's so well spec'd parts are interchangeable.
That 2002 catalog makes me wonder if Kershaw is basically just Case, but without the sentimental benefits of being your grandaddy's knife. They've been putting out the same models every year for decades with different handle options. For the butchers question, they're probably doing 1 stroke per side because they are only honing their edge. By constantly honing their edge they are keeping the knife sharp, opposed to using it until it is dull and needing to resharpen the knife in its entirety, which will take several passes per side.
Earlier this week, I was breaking down a box and the blade was moving slowly through. I just get the knife for Christmas, so there was no way it was dull. Turns out I was cutting double layered cardboard. Once I realized, I changed the sharpness and thought it did a great job.
Could you walk us through some of the earliest supersteel knives? It would be interesting to see what were considered supersteels and what was built around them.
A lot of simple stainless nowadays was supersteel back then. Think VG10, 154CM, or 400 series steel. Buck used to have 440C steel hardened to the point it was considered “impossible” by most on soft whetstones. S30VN is the first steel I can recall being called a supersteel.
You're absolutely right, my first thought was 440C when it was first introduced. I figure with the access to the knowledge and history we have we could get an interesting perspective on the subject.
BLACK CAT KNIFE wow .. I remember as a young boy in 1960s looking through the glass DISPLAY CASE in the sporting goods section.. of a local department store here in Connecticut called CALDOR .. I remember looking at the black cat in the case.. and always wanted one but never purchased one. Perhaps one day
I always love the "Monty Python"ish opening to these videos. As a recent enthusiast I am happy to see that my new Kershaw Chive has a tried and true design with lasting power. And your closing? Very clever! lol
What’s nice about the spyderco Caribbean is that you can decide if you want a leaf or sheep foot. I actually am still in the market for a Caribbean w a sheep foot.
I love seeing the old classics. I was into but unable to buy back then. The legends I missed out on. The Kabar only has one problem breaking at the tang.
Seeing as it's a dream job for many of us, I would love to see a video with a buyer for Knifecenter, or if we could have some more insight on what they look for, how the process works, what their background is.
Hi DCA, I’m curious while the rat 7 doesn’t get more attention. I’ve taken mine on tons of camping and backpacking trips and it’s held up like a champ. I have a collapsible saw and this knife and that all I need to process firewood, even on winter trips.
I was quite surprised that the Kit Carson CRKTs (M16s, M18s or M21s) weren't in the list alongside the KISS and PECK. Maybe they were a touch more popular a couple years prior.
As for the butcher thing, it's important to remember, like he said, that the bur process is often in the initial sharpening phases and finding an edge. But most butchers (I was raised by a butcher and learned to sharpen from him) already have the edge and just work to maintain it. We would build a bur and debur (we called them wires) only every few months, the rest was maintaining. It is amazing how fast steel wears down on a butchers knife, and if they bur it out after every use, the knife blade will grow very thing and snap in a few years. Keep in mind most butchers use softer steels (we used carbon) and use a tuning steel every few minutes and a fine stone after a big project. Also, most butchers with experience cut very efficiently and don't need a tenth of the sharpening that non-butchers need after butchering something. It's all about cutting in between things with as little blade contact as necessary.
I appreciate your previous video (best New knives) the first knife is one that I've wanted for at least a year, thank you 😊 it's on its way 😀 , the Spyderco Manix 2 XL in Cruwear, thank you, thank you, thank you 😊.
Most serious Question - My wife is 8 months pregnant and we are having a baby girl. Since I am always looking for another reason to buy a knife, while the doctor is delivering our baby, I would like to be able to step in and hand my daughter her first knife so she can cut her own umbilical cord. Any suggestions for a knife for such an occasion?
That actually would be pretty awesome if a parent could use their own knife to cut their newborns umbilical cord, and then later give it to them. Of course, no doctor would permit that, but maybe a midwife would.
Hey guys - really keen to hear your thoughts on a "One and done" knife... I've only just started getting into them (like everything else in my life I'm sure I won't settle on just one!) - but I'd be keen to know your thoughts on a great all-rounder that will last long enough to pass it down. In all honesty I'll be using it around the house the most (doing some DIY, definitely cutting cardboard, in the garden, etc) but also enjoy camping, hiking and outdoors, taking it on long motorbike trips (so something that is at home at a campsite would be great). The thought of being able to pass it down occurred to me when I thought about my grandfather's old Buck knife. Ideally I'd love something that is pretty bomb proof - robust enough to not be ruined by a little mismanagement (let's say you sharpen it yourself and do it wrong, or you get it dirty and don't clean it right away), something that feels nice to use, something strong enough to help around the campsite but will also fit in a pocket for edc. I'd probably try to top out at around $250 USD, but if you think I'd need to go above that to hit all the requirements, I'd be interested in hearing suggestions. Thanks!
I have a friend who is out in the woods a lot. They are looking for a fixed blade that does it all, specifically for camping and hiking. The catch is they want a saw on the top edge. The only knife I know of is the Halfbread Blades LSK-01. Do you know of anything like this more at the around $100 price point? The Hori Hori that you showed in this video is one that I didn't know existed, but that has more serrations rather than sawtooth.
What’s going on DCA & Thomas. Pocket folders never seem to play well with pants with those pesky slant style pockets on chinos, khakis & dress pants. Is there a pocket knife or knives that work well in this situation?
DCA, could you do a video or short series on steels? I’ve only ever considered 2 aspects of steel, carbon or stainless is one. Hardness is the other, a harder metal will always be more difficult to sharpen than a softer. Once sharp, a harder metal will hold an edge longer. You will always sacrifice one property for the other, and vice versa. I don’t see the need for the industry producing dozens and dozens of so called “ premium” steels.
I loved this folks and can't wait for what DCA mentioned about a historical top selling knives type series, that'll be cool. I remember the early 2000's well, but didn't really think about S&W knives being a thing, never knew they'd been doing knives for so long. I've never owned or even held a S&W knife, I've always heard when any brand is known for one thing and decides to get in other things beware. Of course, S&W guns are great but S&W knives might not be too good. I don't know though, anybody think S&W knives are really good?
One of the first knives I ever purchased for myself in the 2000's was an S&W folding something or other. I think back then just as it was before it was fun to look in the catalog and pick out something you could afford with your allowance. The price per feature ratio of those knives made them popular because there wasn't really much else out there that could do all of that. Now I think that is less the case with tremendous competition in the ultra budget category of around $30 and less
Honestly now they are not. Back then they may have been better. This isn't knife snobbery but I tried one for work and had a catastrophic fail. Opened in my pocket with the safety on. Didn't hold an edge at all either.
Hey DCA! Love the videos. My brother uses a Smith & Wesson dual knife & tool spring assisted folding knife, the one with the glass breaker and seatbelt cutter. I’ve been trying to find something that still has assisted open, with the additional glass breaker and seatbelt cutter, but improved steel, something that will last longer. Currently he just buys a new one every year or so cuz they’re cheap. I’d like to get him something that he doesn’t have to buy over and over. Budget is under $200
I have an old Kershaw Cyclone which sure looks like a Ken Onion design but I don't see his name on it. It resembles a Blur. It's a nice knife and the assist is just right. I opens with a snap but is easy to close one handed.
For the Wharncliffe / Spyderco leaf shape question: if you cut cardboard with a Wharncliffe Delica/Endela/Endura, you'll immediately understand the difference. Go ahead and buy one of them in K390, you will not be disappointed.
We have blade shapes named for their intended uses like the pen blade (a thin sharp blade for making quill pen tips) or Spey blades (used for sterilizing livestock). But what was the design intent behind all the other blade shapes? Why make a wharnclif or clip point or drop point or tanto etc.?
Schrade old timer and Buck were the most popular in the 70s which i remember and guys wore folding knives on their belts with leather sheaths like on Dukes of Hazard .
Howdy Pard! As a leather crafter and knife enthusiast, I wondered which budget but, good quality, top sellers you would consider worthy of a custom leather sheath. Maybe two or three fixed blades and a few suggestions for folders if you don't mind? Thanks!
hi. requesting an episode where you take a brief look at the knife brands. discussion points may include: what each is know for, eg fixed blades vs folders; expensive vs budget etc. leaving it up to you. thanks.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane! It was rad to the max! 11:02 I can’t remember the last time I developed a burr. I alternate side every stoke and have easily maintain and sharpen my blades. I think the key is something you said DCA, “burr is necessary for knives that haven’t had attention in a while!” or something along that line. My answer is “don’t do that and you won’t have that problem!” or simply check and maintain your edge regularly as needed! You mileage may vary. Also at this time stamp… DCA why did Thomas ruin (ruint in the Classic Southern dialect) your coffee cup removing the patina by washing it! Sacrilege doesn’t he know that where all the flavor is 🧐 Speaking of Time Travel my most serious question would be “DCA what blade geometry and steel would you recommend to cut though the fabric of space/time? ” Adios till next time and thanks for putting up with me!
Hi DCA, love the channel. Why do so many stainless steel knives have a blade coating? Coating a blade to prevent rust makes sense, but what are the benefits of coating a highly stainless blade steel like Magnacut? Thanks for all the knife knowledge. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for your great videos, guys. I'm on a quest. I'm a small person and I found long ago that the perfect knife for my hands is the Case Sodbuster Jr. I've stuck with it for years. But I've recently wanted something with more modern features, such as a pocket clip, the ability to open and close the knife with one hand, and updated steels. What knives in your opinion fit the size and feel profile of the Sodbuster Jr, but have these newer features? I think that would be my perfect knife.
I find myself using scalpels a lot for work, but a lot of the scalpels out there have inconvenient carrying methods or poor lockup if they are folding. What would you recommend as an alternative to a scalpel with a strong lockup and nice thin tip? Anything under $150 will work and the blade can be over 3 inches.
Question: thanks to COVID, it's been some time since I have been to the states. What would you recommend to a non local that's been released during the last 3 years. A unique piece, USA made, that you would be proud of recommending to a visitor for them to keep as a usable momento. In fact, 2 recommendations. One that would be generally legally safe to carry, and one to take out to enjoy the great American outdoors. Thanks!
Hoping for a little help. I was wondering if you had any tips on if there is a way to fix a frame lock/liner lock with lock rock at around 30% without making the detent stronger. I’ve fixed it before on other knives by adding tension to the lock bar, but that increases detent strength. Having the issue with the KC exclusive Rike Tulay, but the detent on it is perfect.
Hey DCA and Thomas. I'm looking for a folder for my brother. he ideally wants a Scandi or Saber grind...and a lock would be better than a friction or non locking. Hopefully not too expensive...a budget knife.. Thanks!
I always love the most serious question.. here is my entry for the next one... What would be DCA's recommended blades for Zombie apocalypse... Let's exclude swords and machetes and stick to secondary / close combat knives.. I lean towards Operator 7 from TOPS myself, but would love to hear from you guys..
Answered this somewhere but I can't seem to find it... trio for surviving both the undead and the post-apocalypse wilderness :) Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel, Becker BK5, and a Mora HD Companion as a backup -DCA
Hey Dave, I'm having trouble finding a good knife that meets all of my criteria. I currently have a Kershaw volt II and I really like it, but I want something bigger and a little different. Looking for around a 3.5-3.8 inch blade, assisted opening with flipper tab, and tip-down carry. Right now it's looking like my main options are the CRKT PSD and the Boker Plus Gemini NGA flipper. I like the D2 and lower price on the Boker, but there aren't many helpful reviews on it. For the PSD, I'd feel a little ridiculous spending $80 on what seems to be sub-par steel. What would you recommend between these two? Any other options I'm missing? A little review on the Boker would also be awesome! Thanks!
I have a RAT 1 and I absolutely love it. Now I'm looking for the closest knife with wood handles/scales that would be as close to a RAT 1 as possible. Any suggestions?
Hey David and Thomas, most serious question time! Since Stone Cold Steve Austin had the Broken Skull as a signature knife, what would you choose for The Undertaker, Bret Hart, and Andre The Giant as their signatures? Bonus points if Bret's knife is pink and black.
If I may suggest, how would it be if Thomas asked a question at the end of each video for you to answer in the next episode? He seems like a smart guy and it's closer to the action (read warehouse) than us. But only on the condition of not being easy on you. Sound's ok? PS, you look amazing from your left side 😉😂
I have a customized "Columbia River 2605 Hammond A.B.C. Operator's Model Knife Fixed 3.75" Double Edge Blade, Drop Point Tanto, Black Handles". What would you suggest if I wanted to replace it? It has the edge from the tip to the serration sharpened and a custom Kydex sheath.
Hello DCA and crew. I’ve had a question in the back of my mind for a while. I love finding ways to personalize knives, and have seen a lot of people speak about anodizing metal handle scales, and dying g10, but my favorite handle material is micarta. I don’t see much about customizing micarta. Is this material possible to dye and customize like the others, or is there something about it that makes it more difficult to work with? Thanks guys.
I'd just like to say that I really love the way KnifeCenter's videos make me feel. I can't remember a time I watched one of these and did not chuckle or come away from it with a smile. Thank you
Same! I owe these guys so much for getting me into the hobby and through some tough times.
I tried other knife dealers with youtube channels like bhq and smkw and I just don't feel that connection with the viewers like DCA pulls off.
Very well said.
agreed, it's so open and friendly
“Gullible” is written on the ceiling btw
People get too hung up over the latest super steel, Micarta, flipper, thumb stud and other things. In the early 1980s, I bought a Swiss Army knife (Wenger Delemont) at my college. That's something that you won't see on sale at campuses today. It's the Pioneer model. I've used that knife off and on since then and still use it today for various chores. The blade has need to be resharpened numerous times through the years on whetstones, the Spyderco Sharpmaker and a Work Sharp belt sander. It still holds a good edge, and when I need a screwdriver or to punch a hole to start a screw, there it is. One of the best buys ever.
On the other hand, part of the reason we even have the option of buying the newest super steel pocketknife for $120 is because all those people who shell out
Knowing more about your knife helps to validate the purchase of it. If you call it just a knife then like many of our folks and grand folks you would only need like 2. But introducing the these variations also helps to invite new knife buyers and get them hooked.
You can drive a bike or BMW the choice is yours. They basically do the same thing but very differently.
I agree, I’m more concerned with blade geometry than steel. I do stick with a reputable manufacturer, that does there heat treatment well.
I'm pretty sure micarta has been around for like 100 years.
I'm 55 and the old yellow handle cases was one if not the most popular knives when I was young. Any kind of case was popular and most carried them but the yellow was more popular because of its price. Thanks Dave.
Going over the best sellers from 21 years ago was awesome! Really looking forward to the dedicated video on historic best sellers!
Agree. I carried a Khabarovsk in combat 50 years ago and still use the knife to this day.
@@johnboyd7158
Khabarovsk? Sounds like a Soviet made KA-BAR.
i got a Buck 110 for my birthday in 1979 for turning 10 and reaching double digits. i wore it when i could get away with. of course the older i got the more i carried, the Buck 110 has become my everyday carry now for over 30 years. I'm sure my son will get good use out of it as well. still in real good shape because it is a Buck, and i didn't beat it up.
The Otter Mercator K55 apparently is pretty timeless. I still have my Grandfathers version of the knife, it was in his desk drawer when he passed away some 50 years ago. I'm 71. That version only has metal handles instead of the fancy ones DCA had.
I just realized Ken Onion names his knives after types of root vegetables, scallion, chive, leek.
one of the best shows yet please show more of the variety you sell
Cool that you used the bottom of a mug. My Grandma used a cleaver for everything and sharpened it on the bottom of a bowl.
Hey Dave,
Could you please explain the advantages & disadvantages of some of the various blade coatings out there. Thanks
I like your calm way of presenting. 😊
Best episode ever. Learn some things. I hear a lot about people using knives for cutting cardboard. I’m a knife collector, and i use a few of them. Me personally I use a box cutter to cut cardboard. Replacing razor blades for me is better than using the knives in my collection. I do have users, but for other tasks. Just my thoughts.
As an avid gardener, I can’t recommend a Hori Hori enough. They interestingly have interesting bushcraft potential as well.
Best gift I ever got my wife. She has several of them now - one for each part of the garden.
When sharpening, I think of the burr as akin to a side effect, byproduct, or symptom (disregarding the negative connotations of that word) of removing metal from the blade's egde. The burr is an easy, consistent way to "read" the blade edge, and in turn judge your progress while sharpening. With it, many people are better able to know when to stop removing metal from each side.
However, it's totally feasible to sharpen to the same level without even being aware of the burr. You can accomplish that if you have an ability to see fine detail on the edge, either with very good eyesight or via magnification. It's also possible to get a tactile sense of when a side is "done;" depending on blade steel and whetstone material. For most of my own knives and stones, I can feel when I'm at the same angle as the bevel, and I can usually feel and feel or hear when the burr is forming. Also, if held up to a light, burrs and other edge imperfections can become quite noticeable.
Without any of these methods, though, it's completely possible to still get there, flying blind. You end up with a blade that's just as sharp, only with a little more time and metal gone. In that situation, when "flying blind," the technique necessarily has to involve removing _more_ than enough metal, so that you can be certain to have removed enough without any way of checking your progress. Personally, I didn't know about the whole burr thing, which is probably how I developed an ability to judge everything with a combination of sight, sound, and feel. Eventually, I learned the bonus move of feeling for the burr, and added that to the toolbox of sharpening skills. Now it's just one part of the process, and I just feel or look for a burr when I'm not otherwise already certain it's there. Hope this helps someone.
I think an important aspect of those who get a burr and go through the whole progression vs a butcher...
There's "good" and "good enough." Being that those are working knives that are constantly touched up and used for hours and hours I'm sure most butchers, like any other real working knife, go for "good enough." Where as a hobbyist many are going to go for what brings him happiness, IE truly good.
@@Ajaxykins -- The knives butchers are using tend to be made of very soft steel. Try 'steeling' an edge back to 'good enough' on a knife made from a modern super steel. It's never going to happen. Personally, I can feel a burr when I sharpen on my diamond stones or my 320 Kuro-maki, but on my 1000 and 5000 grit Shapton Glass? It never happens.
@@twatmunro Check out the article "what-does-steeling-do-part-1" over at science of sharp which YT infuriatingly won't let me link. Steels do indeed work on modern super steels, but maybe not metal ones for everything.
Steels don't simply move or realign edge, it actually removes metal via adhesive wear (vs abrasive wear of a stone). "Steels" made of ceramic or carbide (like the speedy sharp used at the correct angle) will certainly do the job on knives made out of anything less than tungsten or ceramic. A regular metal butchers steel will also work on s35vn and XHP from my experience and should also work on m4/cruwear/s90v but I haven't experienced that myself.
The ceramic in the coffee cup and in a sharpening rod are different. Sharpening rods are made from aluminum oxide ceramic.
That beginning was so much fun! I think some reviews of the not so popular stuff from your stock would be cool. The more obscure things. Should make it a small segment of one of the standard videos. The things people don’t realize exist
I watch the Bearded Butcher too. They are usually just honing their knives. Edge isn’t damaged, it’s just lost that razors edge. That’s why they just have to touch them up.
Love the history review. In fact, I'd love to flick through the whole catalogue. That aside, goes to show that some designs are just so good they never die. I love my trusty BK-7 works hard and easy to maintain. Seen me through many a camping expedition. I also have a few Case knives from when I first started collecting some 35+ years ago and thumb studs and flippers weren't really thing - yet. My trapper and sod busters have been used and sharpened to point where they are only for display now. Sharp blades all.
The Holey Moley pun was beautifully executed lol. That is the perfect knife for the most serious question haha.
That's about the time I got my first good knife!! The Kershaw Whirlwind!!! Love the old school callbacks!
In my opinion the knife that stands the test of time is hands down the bm 551. The most perfect design as far as dimensions. Pivot to thumb stud distance, pocket clip to thumb stud. It's the Glock of knives, it's so well spec'd parts are interchangeable.
Shame that g10 with 20cv steel version is not longer produced🥺
Wow I was a junior in high school in 2002, time flies.
Do a best seller video of 1999 or best selling new releases in 1999. Love the knife history videos.
That 2002 catalog makes me wonder if Kershaw is basically just Case, but without the sentimental benefits of being your grandaddy's knife. They've been putting out the same models every year for decades with different handle options.
For the butchers question, they're probably doing 1 stroke per side because they are only honing their edge. By constantly honing their edge they are keeping the knife sharp, opposed to using it until it is dull and needing to resharpen the knife in its entirety, which will take several passes per side.
exactly they are honing and maintaining more that actually sharpening, adding a quick micro bevel will keep it going
Earlier this week, I was breaking down a box and the blade was moving slowly through. I just get the knife for Christmas, so there was no way it was dull. Turns out I was cutting double layered cardboard. Once I realized, I changed the sharpness and thought it did a great job.
Another good KnifeAQ and MMW's music at the end always softens the blow for me.
I love old crkt and Kershaw knives especially from early 2000s
Could you walk us through some of the earliest supersteel knives? It would be interesting to see what were considered supersteels and what was built around them.
A lot of simple stainless nowadays was supersteel back then. Think VG10, 154CM, or 400 series steel. Buck used to have 440C steel hardened to the point it was considered “impossible” by most on soft whetstones. S30VN is the first steel I can recall being called a supersteel.
You're absolutely right, my first thought was 440C when it was first introduced. I figure with the access to the knowledge and history we have we could get an interesting perspective on the subject.
BLACK CAT KNIFE wow .. I remember as a young boy in 1960s looking through the glass DISPLAY CASE in the sporting goods section.. of a local department store here in Connecticut called CALDOR .. I remember looking at the black cat in the case.. and always wanted one but never purchased one. Perhaps one day
I always love the "Monty Python"ish opening to these videos. As a recent enthusiast I am happy to see that my new Kershaw Chive has a tried and true design with lasting power. And your closing? Very clever! lol
What’s nice about the spyderco Caribbean is that you can decide if you want a leaf or sheep foot. I actually am still in the market for a Caribbean w a sheep foot.
I'm glad to see that Bob Terzuola's CQB design from Camillus is getting revisited by MKM
I love seeing the old classics. I was into but unable to buy back then. The legends I missed out on. The Kabar only has one problem breaking at the tang.
I carried a Gerber ez-out from the time it came out and just recently upgraded
I’ve still got several Kershaw scallions and leeks in my collection from years ago.
My Coleman Western 954, still sharp and rust free.
(1988 Christmas gift)
Seeing as it's a dream job for many of us, I would love to see a video with a buyer for Knifecenter, or if we could have some more insight on what they look for, how the process works, what their background is.
Thanks, Mr. Andersen and Thomas! Giving a gift to *mole*-ify the Mole People? Smooth.
Hi DCA, I’m curious while the rat 7 doesn’t get more attention. I’ve taken mine on tons of camping and backpacking trips and it’s held up like a champ. I have a collapsible saw and this knife and that all I need to process firewood, even on winter trips.
I was quite surprised that the Kit Carson CRKTs (M16s, M18s or M21s) weren't in the list alongside the KISS and PECK. Maybe they were a touch more popular a couple years prior.
Would love a video with the best tanto folders
@officialknifecenter yay!
I have a BK-7 in S30V. Rare beast. Did an article on it in Tactical Knives.
As for the butcher thing, it's important to remember, like he said, that the bur process is often in the initial sharpening phases and finding an edge. But most butchers (I was raised by a butcher and learned to sharpen from him) already have the edge and just work to maintain it. We would build a bur and debur (we called them wires) only every few months, the rest was maintaining. It is amazing how fast steel wears down on a butchers knife, and if they bur it out after every use, the knife blade will grow very thing and snap in a few years. Keep in mind most butchers use softer steels (we used carbon) and use a tuning steel every few minutes and a fine stone after a big project. Also, most butchers with experience cut very efficiently and don't need a tenth of the sharpening that non-butchers need after butchering something. It's all about cutting in between things with as little blade contact as necessary.
I appreciate your previous video (best New knives) the first knife is one that I've wanted for at least a year, thank you 😊 it's on its way 😀 , the Spyderco Manix 2 XL in Cruwear, thank you, thank you, thank you 😊.
Most serious Question - My wife is 8 months pregnant and we are having a baby girl. Since I am always looking for another reason to buy a knife, while the doctor is delivering our baby, I would like to be able to step in and hand my daughter her first knife so she can cut her own umbilical cord. Any suggestions for a knife for such an occasion?
I'd go either Civivi Baby Banter or the Fox Baby Core
That actually would be pretty awesome if a parent could use their own knife to cut their newborns umbilical cord, and then later give it to them. Of course, no doctor would permit that, but maybe a midwife would.
Victorinox Delemont Junior
Finally, I get to see some Smith & Wesson knives! Thank you! You need to review more S&W and Remington knives, por favor! ¡Gracias Señores!
Hey guys - really keen to hear your thoughts on a "One and done" knife... I've only just started getting into them (like everything else in my life I'm sure I won't settle on just one!) - but I'd be keen to know your thoughts on a great all-rounder that will last long enough to pass it down. In all honesty I'll be using it around the house the most (doing some DIY, definitely cutting cardboard, in the garden, etc) but also enjoy camping, hiking and outdoors, taking it on long motorbike trips (so something that is at home at a campsite would be great).
The thought of being able to pass it down occurred to me when I thought about my grandfather's old Buck knife. Ideally I'd love something that is pretty bomb proof - robust enough to not be ruined by a little mismanagement (let's say you sharpen it yourself and do it wrong, or you get it dirty and don't clean it right away), something that feels nice to use, something strong enough to help around the campsite but will also fit in a pocket for edc. I'd probably try to top out at around $250 USD, but if you think I'd need to go above that to hit all the requirements, I'd be interested in hearing suggestions. Thanks!
I have a friend who is out in the woods a lot. They are looking for a fixed blade that does it all, specifically for camping and hiking. The catch is they want a saw on the top edge. The only knife I know of is the Halfbread Blades LSK-01. Do you know of anything like this more at the around $100 price point? The Hori Hori that you showed in this video is one that I didn't know existed, but that has more serrations rather than sawtooth.
What’s going on DCA & Thomas. Pocket folders never seem to play well with pants with those pesky slant style pockets on chinos, khakis & dress pants. Is there a pocket knife or knives that work well in this situation?
DCA, could you do a video or short series on steels? I’ve only ever considered 2 aspects of steel, carbon or stainless is one. Hardness is the other, a harder metal will always be more difficult to sharpen than a softer. Once sharp, a harder metal will hold an edge longer. You will always sacrifice one property for the other, and vice versa. I don’t see the need for the industry producing dozens and dozens of so called “ premium” steels.
Hello all I would like to say this show would not be the same without you Dave, keep up the great work. Thanks again for everything you do.
I loved this folks and can't wait for what DCA mentioned about a historical top selling knives type series, that'll be cool. I remember the early 2000's well, but didn't really think about S&W knives being a thing, never knew they'd been doing knives for so long.
I've never owned or even held a S&W knife, I've always heard when any brand is known for one thing and decides to get in other things beware. Of course, S&W guns are great but S&W knives might not be too good. I don't know though, anybody think S&W knives are really good?
One of the first knives I ever purchased for myself in the 2000's was an S&W folding something or other. I think back then just as it was before it was fun to look in the catalog and pick out something you could afford with your allowance. The price per feature ratio of those knives made them popular because there wasn't really much else out there that could do all of that. Now I think that is less the case with tremendous competition in the ultra budget category of around $30 and less
Honestly now they are not. Back then they may have been better. This isn't knife snobbery but I tried one for work and had a catastrophic fail. Opened in my pocket with the safety on. Didn't hold an edge at all either.
Hey DCA! Love the videos.
My brother uses a Smith & Wesson dual knife & tool spring assisted folding knife, the one with the glass breaker and seatbelt cutter. I’ve been trying to find something that still has assisted open, with the additional glass breaker and seatbelt cutter, but improved steel, something that will last longer. Currently he just buys a new one every year or so cuz they’re cheap. I’d like to get him something that he doesn’t have to buy over and over. Budget is under $200
I have an old Kershaw Cyclone which sure looks like a Ken Onion design but I don't see his name on it. It resembles a Blur. It's a nice knife and the assist is just right. I opens with a snap but is easy to close one handed.
It is one of his designs
@@davidgarrett5671 Cool! Thanks.
For the Wharncliffe / Spyderco leaf shape question: if you cut cardboard with a Wharncliffe Delica/Endela/Endura, you'll immediately understand the difference. Go ahead and buy one of them in K390, you will not be disappointed.
They are easier to sharpen too.
I have a wharncliffe delica with 20cv, it eats cardboard all day long.
We have blade shapes named for their intended uses like the pen blade (a thin sharp blade for making quill pen tips) or Spey blades (used for sterilizing livestock). But what was the design intent behind all the other blade shapes? Why make a wharnclif or clip point or drop point or tanto etc.?
Schrade old timer and Buck were the most popular in the 70s which i remember and guys wore folding knives on their belts with leather sheaths like on Dukes of Hazard .
Seeing that old catalog is a bit sad, too. Pour one out for Linder Solingen, Frosts...
Howdy Pard!
As a leather crafter and knife enthusiast, I wondered which budget but, good quality, top sellers you would consider worthy of a custom leather sheath. Maybe two or three fixed blades and a few suggestions for folders if you don't mind?
Thanks!
I own two. CRKT stiff KISS .. 1
A tanto blade & drop point blade.. I also own a CRKT URBAN SHARK.. STILL IN THE BOX
hi. requesting an episode where you take a brief look at the knife brands. discussion points may include: what each is know for, eg fixed blades vs folders; expensive vs budget etc. leaving it up to you. thanks.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane! It was rad to the max!
11:02 I can’t remember the last time I developed a burr. I alternate side every stoke and have easily maintain and sharpen my blades. I think the key is something you said DCA, “burr is necessary for knives that haven’t had attention in a while!” or something along that line. My answer is “don’t do that and you won’t have that problem!” or simply check and maintain your edge regularly as needed! You mileage may vary. Also at this time stamp… DCA why did Thomas ruin (ruint in the Classic Southern dialect) your coffee cup removing the patina by washing it! Sacrilege doesn’t he know that where all the flavor is 🧐
Speaking of Time Travel my most serious question would be “DCA what blade geometry and steel would you recommend to cut though the fabric of space/time? ”
Adios till next time and thanks for putting up with me!
Photon micro was my go to flashlight in the army 2000-2004
D2 kabar tanto was my go-to-war knife oif and oef
@@Stevenobody
I bought one of the first D2 KABAR’s when they initially came out, but not a tanto. Gutted a few deer with it too.
Hi DCA, love the channel.
Why do so many stainless steel knives have a blade coating? Coating a blade to prevent rust makes sense, but what are the benefits of coating a highly stainless blade steel like Magnacut?
Thanks for all the knife knowledge. Keep up the great work.
Feel the burr. 🔥
thank u gentlemen
I've got a CRKT KISS tanto that I bought back around 2002, that's funny. It was my EDC for a good five years. Had no idea they still make those.
They should revisit that CRKT using a premium steel; I bet it sell a few units.
What are your thoughts on the glock knives?
Thanks for your great videos, guys. I'm on a quest. I'm a small person and I found long ago that the perfect knife for my hands is the Case Sodbuster Jr. I've stuck with it for years. But I've recently wanted something with more modern features, such as a pocket clip, the ability to open and close the knife with one hand, and updated steels. What knives in your opinion fit the size and feel profile of the Sodbuster Jr, but have these newer features? I think that would be my perfect knife.
Please do a segment on how to clean a folding knife held by rivets, not screws, where no disassembly is possible.
FAQ time. *YES*
I find myself using scalpels a lot for work, but a lot of the scalpels out there have inconvenient carrying methods or poor lockup if they are folding. What would you recommend as an alternative to a scalpel with a strong lockup and nice thin tip? Anything under $150 will work and the blade can be over 3 inches.
Question: thanks to COVID, it's been some time since I have been to the states. What would you recommend to a non local that's been released during the last 3 years. A unique piece, USA made, that you would be proud of recommending to a visitor for them to keep as a usable momento. In fact, 2 recommendations. One that would be generally legally safe to carry, and one to take out to enjoy the great American outdoors. Thanks!
Forget it. Knives are illegal in 15 minute cities, and you don't need one to eat the bugs
Question: How do you sharpen a karambit or any hawkbill style blade. I want one but not sure how to maintain it. Thanks!
Definitely neat.
okayyyy. so what is the BEST small sized folder ever? when money is no issue
Holy moly that Holey Moley bit had me dying 😂
Ok… I’d love to see you Thomas and Seth V do a video on random superheroes and tv/movie characters and what knives they’d carry
Hoping for a little help. I was wondering if you had any tips on if there is a way to fix a frame lock/liner lock with lock rock at around 30% without making the detent stronger. I’ve fixed it before on other knives by adding tension to the lock bar, but that increases detent strength. Having the issue with the KC exclusive Rike Tulay, but the detent on it is perfect.
Hey DCA and Thomas. I'm looking for a folder for my brother. he ideally wants a Scandi or Saber grind...and a lock would be better than a friction or non locking. Hopefully not too expensive...a budget knife.. Thanks!
Have a look at the Cold Steel Finn Wolf.
I always love the most serious question.. here is my entry for the next one... What would be DCA's recommended blades for Zombie apocalypse... Let's exclude swords and machetes and stick to secondary / close combat knives.. I lean towards Operator 7 from TOPS myself, but would love to hear from you guys..
Answered this somewhere but I can't seem to find it... trio for surviving both the undead and the post-apocalypse wilderness :)
Cold Steel Special Forces Shovel, Becker BK5, and a Mora HD Companion as a backup -DCA
Hey Dave, I'm having trouble finding a good knife that meets all of my criteria. I currently have a Kershaw volt II and I really like it, but I want something bigger and a little different. Looking for around a 3.5-3.8 inch blade, assisted opening with flipper tab, and tip-down carry. Right now it's looking like my main options are the CRKT PSD and the Boker Plus Gemini NGA flipper. I like the D2 and lower price on the Boker, but there aren't many helpful reviews on it. For the PSD, I'd feel a little ridiculous spending $80 on what seems to be sub-par steel. What would you recommend between these two? Any other options I'm missing? A little review on the Boker would also be awesome! Thanks!
A 20 year old Kershaw Scallion is still my go to backpacking knife. I would hate to try to count how many miles I have on that knife.
Great video DCA the video in which Michael is mentioning is Bearded Butchers from Ohio knives they only use victorianox
Always entertaining DCA.!
DCA: How about fixed blade cardboard slayers?
Cool video idea! Keep up the good work
And would say that the ending of the video was a “Mole In One” !!!!
I have a RAT 1 and I absolutely love it. Now I'm looking for the closest knife with wood handles/scales that would be as close to a RAT 1 as possible. Any suggestions?
They did make a wood handled RAT3 fixed blade at one point if you can find one. -DCA
Hey David and Thomas, most serious question time! Since Stone Cold Steve Austin had the Broken Skull as a signature knife, what would you choose for The Undertaker, Bret Hart, and Andre The Giant as their signatures? Bonus points if Bret's knife is pink and black.
If I may suggest, how would it be if Thomas asked a question at the end of each video for you to answer in the next episode? He seems like a smart guy and it's closer to the action (read warehouse) than us. But only on the condition of not being easy on you. Sound's ok?
PS, you look amazing from your left side 😉😂
I have a customized "Columbia River 2605 Hammond A.B.C. Operator's Model Knife Fixed 3.75" Double Edge Blade, Drop Point Tanto, Black Handles". What would you suggest if I wanted to replace it? It has the edge from the tip to the serration sharpened and a custom Kydex sheath.
I am a huge fan of The Walking Dead. I’ve always wondered what knives do they use on the show? Can you name them? It would be a fun game.. Thanks!
I love the mole puns!
What are the best big game processing knives and fish knives that are not fillet knives? Thank you
do y’all do factory seconds for spyderco if not where can i go??????
Hello DCA and crew. I’ve had a question in the back of my mind for a while. I love finding ways to personalize knives, and have seen a lot of people speak about anodizing metal handle scales, and dying g10, but my favorite handle material is micarta. I don’t see much about customizing micarta. Is this material possible to dye and customize like the others, or is there something about it that makes it more difficult to work with? Thanks guys.
The best sellers of 2002 segment gave me a bit of a ptsd twitch. I mangled my left hand pretty badly with a Kershaw Blackout.
Knives of Yesteryear
Oh dear!
What does that make me
They were all the first knives of my collecting....