Thank you for such a timely video for me. I am going to make a set of decals for a static airplane model this week. I use the white paper because I found that the colors came out translucent or weak with the clear. That may just have been the brand of paper I used, I don't know. Anyhow, I picked up several very useful tips from this video which will make my project easier and look better. Thank you very much.
great results! The standard Windows photo viewer has very basic adjustments for brightness and contrast etc, if you boost the contrast towards maximum and make it brighter, the light grey surrounds can be washed out to appear white.
1:00 am and I was so excited to see this video in the queue. This is going to be a great flying model, looks great, thanks Mark for sharing your decal process with us!
Thank you very much for the kind comment, really pleased you are enjoying the build series. 1am I am guessing you must be somewhere on the US East coast 😀Thanks for watching 👍
Interesting video Mark, I cover to a lesser degree in my next Fokker Restoration part 4 video the same process using a laser printer for the crosses on the the wings, with hindsight although the ink is water safe (being lasered), the tip about spraying the decal would have proved useful because the transfers cracked and broke in a couple of places due to the curling up. The other thing different to yours was the soaking time, mine was about 30 seconds tops, any longer and the transfer was floating off, just something to be aware of! Also I gave the finished transfers a light spray of lacquer to seal them in, cheers.
Warm water speeds up the loosening of the transfer & use off cuts from the transfer sheet (put into water at the same time) to test if it is ready to be applied.
Very well done, great and informative video. If indeed the slight grey discoloration is from the printer, you could try fidling with the image contrast in Powerpoint, that is if you don't want to go trough the trouble and price of Photoshop, or using something free like Gimp to Magic Wand-out the undesirable parts.
Thanks to your video, I have printed my decals and sealed them. Hope to apply them tomorrow. Using commercial decals I always use Solvaset to snug the decals. Can I use this product on my homemade decals? Thank you.
Hi, thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed it. I think if you used a laser printer it would be waterproof, so would not need the cover of lacquer, but I have never done it, so it would be worth testing first. 😀
@nigelcopestake3618 Me too, and also have reduced the KK logo a bit more while increasing the Gipsy name as much as possible. As Mark says we all have our own ideas. Personally while Mark uses cold water I use slightly lukewarm water, to release the transfer a bit quicker in case the waterproofing spray doesn't hold up to the prolonged immersion shown in the video. I have had the same version of Photoshop on my PCs for about 30 years (it's Photoshop 6 which. lacks most of the whistles and bells of modern PS). I would use that to turn the mottled areas to white or clear before printing. Although Mark wanted to use the tools he had on hand, which is admirable , these days there are any number of free downloads which could do this same basic operation of cleaning up the surrounding areas although I don't think it would have made much difference in this case. 😀
Good demo Sir. Makes we want to have a go which is what this channel is all about (for me). Modern variation of brown paper, gum, varnish, paint, varnish equals decal. Not that I've actually gotten round to evet doing that either. Seeing is beleiving with this channel :)
It's a small thing, but thanks for calling them transfers and not decals Mark! It makes my inner 10 year old Airfix builder very happy😊.
Excellent, good to hear the video made you happy, thanks for the comment 😀
Thanks Mark, another excellent idea and tutorial. I'll be trying this out on something I'm about to build.
Excellent, pleased you found it helpful, thanks for the comment
You definitely do nice work, again nicely done
Thank you very much!
Found it very usefull Mark. Thanks🤠👍🛩️🇿🇦
Glad it was helpful! 😀
Nicely done Mark!
Thank you! 😀
Thank you for such a timely video for me. I am going to make a set of decals for a static airplane model this week. I use the white paper because I found that the colors came out translucent or weak with the clear. That may just have been the brand of paper I used, I don't know. Anyhow, I picked up several very useful tips from this video which will make my project easier and look better. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the feedback, always appreciated 😀
great results! The standard Windows photo viewer has very basic adjustments for brightness and contrast etc, if you boost the contrast towards maximum and make it brighter, the light grey surrounds can be washed out to appear white.
Thank you very much for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video 😀
1:00 am and I was so excited to see this video in the queue. This is going to be a great flying model, looks great, thanks Mark for sharing your decal process with us!
Thank you very much for the kind comment, really pleased you are enjoying the build series. 1am I am guessing you must be somewhere on the US East coast 😀Thanks for watching 👍
Interesting video Mark, I cover to a lesser degree in my next Fokker Restoration part 4 video the same process using a laser printer for the crosses on the the wings, with hindsight although the ink is water safe (being lasered), the tip about spraying the decal would have proved useful because the transfers cracked and broke in a couple of places due to the curling up. The other thing different to yours was the soaking time, mine was about 30 seconds tops, any longer and the transfer was floating off, just something to be aware of! Also I gave the finished transfers a light spray of lacquer to seal them in, cheers.
Hi Cliff, thanks for the comment, always appreciated, pleased you found the video interesting 😀
Really enjoyed watching today's video. In fact I'm going to watch it again and have a go myself. Big thank you for sharing with us.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment
That was really good
Thank you very much 😀
Nice job Mark ..the tension and suspense was palpable 😅👍
Thank you very much for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video 😀
Buenas, sus videos no tienen precio. Pagaría por aprender con usted.
Thank you very much for your very kind comment, it is greatly appreciated 😀
As always, a very entertaining and informative video. Another tool in my model building toolbox.
Glad you enjoyed it, appreciate the comment 😀
Warm water speeds up the loosening of the transfer & use off cuts from the transfer sheet (put into water at the same time) to test if it is ready to be applied.
Great job so far Mark and thank you for the videos. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you like them, appreciate the comment 😀
Glad it’s not just me who finds applying them a higher pressure operation!
I’ve ruined a lot of fiddly Airfix ones over the years 😂
Hahaha, yes absolutely, but always rewarding when done 😜 Thanks for the comment
Hi Mark. I do my own water slides too in the same way but use Hycote Automotive lacquer which I find sprays very well.
Good to know! 😀
Very well done, great and informative video. If indeed the slight grey discoloration is from the printer, you could try fidling with the image contrast in Powerpoint, that is if you don't want to go trough the trouble and price of Photoshop, or using something free like Gimp to Magic Wand-out the undesirable parts.
Thanks very much, pleased you enjoyed the video, appreciate the comment 😀
Thanks to your video, I have printed my decals and sealed them. Hope to apply them tomorrow. Using commercial decals I always use Solvaset to snug the decals. Can I use this product on my homemade decals? Thank you.
Pleased you enjoyed the video hope your decals go on well. Sorry I am not familiar with Solvaset, so can't advise, thanks for the comment 😀
Buenas otra vez, hay varios tipos de papel. Cual fue el que utilizo usted en la prueba. Gracias.
Hi there, this is the paper that I used, hope this is helpful 😀www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C96KW1R4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hi Mark,
You made that look very easy. Would laser water slide transfer be more durable?
Hi, thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed it. I think if you used a laser printer it would be waterproof, so would not need the cover of lacquer, but I have never done it, so it would be worth testing first. 😀
Hi Mark, nice video. But personally I would have put the KK on the left wing. With Gypsy on the right wing. Sorry for being picky 👍
Thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video, don't see you as picky, we all have our ideas, which is what modelling is all about 😀
@nigelcopestake3618 Me too, and also have reduced the KK logo a bit more while increasing the Gipsy name as much as possible. As Mark says we all have our own ideas. Personally while Mark uses cold water I use slightly lukewarm water, to release the transfer a bit quicker in case the waterproofing spray doesn't hold up to the prolonged immersion shown in the video. I have had the same version of Photoshop on my PCs for about 30 years (it's Photoshop 6 which. lacks most of the whistles and bells of modern PS). I would use that to turn the mottled areas to white or clear before printing. Although Mark wanted to use the tools he had on hand, which is admirable , these days there are any number of free downloads which could do this same basic operation of cleaning up the surrounding areas although I don't think it would have made much difference in this case. 😀
Good demo Sir. Makes we want to have a go which is what this channel is all about (for me). Modern variation of brown paper, gum, varnish, paint, varnish equals decal. Not that I've actually gotten round to evet doing that either. Seeing is beleiving with this channel :)
www.youtube.com/@brendansheehy Hi Brendan, thank you for the Kind comment, really pleased you enjoy the videos