Ford/Jaguar P132b Fault Fix Part 2 (Turbo Strip Down)
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- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2020
- In the second part of our Ford/Jaguar fault fix we are getting deep into the depths of the turbo charger to understand why this particular fault is occurring.
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Nice one ! Mine went into low power today in north west of Spain , I got back home ok about 140 kilometers under low power . I’d put money on it this is my problem , many thanks for explaining the job perfectly .
good video. just wish I could get mine apart 😅. getting it out the car was much easier than I expected but 2 weeks later I still can't separate the manifold from the turbo
PROPER JOB DONE!,Nice one.Great vid!
Nother cool video,, would really like to see more of the manifold going in and out , I know it was a brutal angle .. Cheers for the vid
I honestly can't remember how much of it I put in the video. It will have been a ball ache trying to get a decent angle whilst both my hands were fiddling the the Jags nuts though.
awesome job pal, cheers, definately not a botch. more a recon
@@Papa77sGarage wife's xtype just started the problem gonna have a look at the weekend. Thanks again for the insite
@@Papa77sGarage I bought some Revive turbo cleaner. Actuator arm moves free as a bird now. I guess wife's was just soot and coke. Thanks again
I think I need to do this on my x type .
It is quite a common fault.
My 2013 Ford Territory 2.7 diesel (Australia) went into limp mode towing my caravan going up a hill, I had the diagnostic reader hooked up and it came up with that code p132b , I wonder if my turbo has the same problem as this one?
Its certainly worth checking, although I would think it is more awkward to do on a V6. From the little research I've just done it seems to be the same engine that house into Jaguars and Land Rovers. Hopefully Ford give you more room to work.
@@Papa77sGarage Yes thank you buddy, another funny thing it started was like a pre-ignition pinging rattling sound as well, I gave it a good dose of de-carb and fuel injector cleaner, hasn't played up since but I'm sure additives only do a short term fix, thank you for your reply, all the best
Seems a common problem on the Jags and mondeos. I have the X Type. Sure i will experience this at some point.
Yes it sure is. I don't whether some models manage to avoid the issue or not but at least you have it in your mind that its a possibility.
I have a 2006 mondeo mk3 tdci 96kW and it's smoking alot of black smoke. I cleaned the EGR but it's still the same result. Injectors seem fine but im thinking the EGR has been shut off with a remap. What do you think?
Black smoke is usually a sign of over fueling, injectors are common on the 2.0 TDCi engines. Another cause could be a split intake pipe, I've seen it several times on Jaguar X-Types with the same engine. Have you noticed a drop in power/performance or a whooshing type noise when on boost? Obviously it's going to be hard to pinpoint the issue without having the car in front of me but hopefully this is a start.
@@Papa77sGarage the performance is the same, it performs as a 96kW would and it cuts power bcuz of that p132b code but its rare. Other than that has no split intake etc. I did a hydrogen cleaning through the intake but hasn t stopped the black smoke!
@@TBAisName I'd check the turbo actuator arm next. You may need the heat shield removing from the top of the turbo. There is a horseshoe type clip holding the actuator arm which you need to remove to get the arm off. Once you have it off you should be able to feel any restrictions or tight spots through the travel of that actuator arm.
@@Papa77sGarage ok that's for the coil light and power restriction, about the engine running rich, does a remap or chiptune fix that?
@@TBAisName I would fix the turbo fault first and see if that cures the other issues. I don't think any reputable mapping company will tune a vehicle that has an underlying fault.
Did you need to prime the turbo once fitted by disconnecting the fuel rail sensor?
I usually unplug the injectors and crank it a few times but fuel rail sensor is probably easier. Also a syringe of oil in turbo before the oil feed pipe goes on just to make sure it's not dry.
@@Papa77sGarage I'm stripping mine Sunday probs even easier just to disconnect the camshaft sensor on the front of the engine would be even more easier 👍👍 thanks for the reply.
@@NayNay1991x no worries and I hope it all goes smoothly for you.
great video! one question, now that you did this, wouldnt you try to work in the engine bay instead of removing all turbo out?
I wouldn't personally. I prefer to have it on the bench rather than working at an unfavorable angle. I'm not evens sure it's possible to separate it while still bolted to the car.
@@Papa77sGarage thanks for reply, yes it seems that looking to the fan and the bolts that you did on the bench, it may work but indeed the problem will be the return pipe bolts because the can only be accessed from under... anyway, your video gave me some ideas and i really appreciate it! cheers!
Hi, I'm doing this job now and to answer your question it is nearly impossible to do this without removing the exhaust manifold. I tried, myself and a helper. Sure, you can remove the turbo from the manifold, and you can even take the little cassette out if you're skillful enough without losing the little rollers. But it is impossible to line it up and put it back together while it's sideways. The ring wants to come out and fall off and if god forbid it does you will lose the rollers and a replacement cassette is €90 from turbo rail. Do not attempt to do this without having the manifold placed vertically
Hi I have mondeo with a siren sound coming from the turbo will doing what you did sort my problem out
Unfortunately it isn't likely to fix it. Turbo howling is usually caused by excess movent in the turbo bearings. A new turbo core or reconditioned turbo will be the solution. If you are pretty handy with the spanners this procedure is half way to replacing the turbo core.
@@Papa77sGarage thank you I have bought an secondhand one of eBay he says it’s good working order or I can send it back so will I need to take the manifold off or just replace just the turbo and leave the manifold where it is and just put the new turbo on to my manifold
@@rizlaslap sounds like you've found a decent seller. I'm sure there was a 10mm bolt I couldn't undo. It cracked 2 of my sockets so thought I'd better leave it. Can't remember if that is why I brought the entire manifold with it. Good luck with the repair.
@@Papa77sGarage I’ve put a video of the old turbo can you have a watch there’s a plate I’m not sure about is it meant to be wobbling I liked your video tho helped me out never knew what the vanes was till I seen your video lol
@@rizlaslap if you skip to 3.56 you see me touch that plate and it moves on the turbo I was working on. There shouldn't be any stiffness in the compressor wheel, it should spin freely at all times. I would say you're well on the way to fixing it.
Yep, mine needs that too
I had all the symptoms too like bad idling, start difficulties and hesitation. It's all about Turbo and EGR carbonisation. Writing this for all other X-Type 2.2d owners. Oh and I had 2 bad injectors that I had to replace too.
yep, I was thinking about blanking it too, but it's illegal in my country. There will be a big and final fix one day when I move on to a BEV (battery electric vehicle). I love the 2.2d X-Type. It has a lot of power, is very comfortable and practical as well. Unfortunately the way these cars, not only the X-Type, are designed these days they tend to carbon up over time.
More info for X-Type 2.2D owners with automatic transmission: if you run into intermittent issues with your automatic gearbox (glow plug light flashing and a "Transmission Failure" message on the display) especially in situations like immediately after engine start or more seldomly at times when you slow down and almost come to a stop, then look no further. On the X-Type it is again caused by the Turbo and/or the EGR. That can be due to a defect in either one of them or because of, yes, you guessed it, carbonation. It took me months of internet research and reading to find the culprit in my case. This is my first Diesel. I had no clue. Don't sell the car and don't let the mechanic of your trust to just replace one thing after the other.
@@Papa77sGarage a lot people are doing it also in my country on their Skodas, VWs, Seats, Fords etc..., as the engines run better with improved gas mileage and most importantly, less carbonation. But I am rather careful. My 2008 Jag apparently would require a blanking kit that comes with an electronic circuit board, sort of an egr simulator, to avoid the check engine light to go on. And I also don't know what the side effect would be concerning the DPF as without egr, the engine will apparently run hotter. Since my X-Type has an automatic transmission that due to some reason is sensitive to Turbo and EGR malfunction, I again don't know what a blanked egr would do. I just don't know anyone with the same car and experience with blanking the egr. Mine is a 2008 X-Type 2.2D Estatate AT, with all those costly, prone to fail amenities that are supposed to keep our air fresh and clean...
could anyone hear some radio interference sounded like someone on a radio???
What's the maintenance spray you use bud
It wasn't anything fancy. Classic Pro Worksol 40 oil if my memory is correct.
@@Papa77sGarage cheers mate , I'm having same issues now, proper vids them best av seen
@@wilfymyers8134 thanks for the kind words. Hopefully you sort it without too much trouble.
@@Papa77sGarage hopefully mate yeah