dont drag seals across rust, it ruins then the very first time you do it the lips are scratched. ALWAYS, wire brush, sand gently, or wipe with oily rag. and only remove on aan oiled shaft. dont be shy, oils cheap. Go easy coax it off, then before assembly Emory or 1000 grit it til smoth-ish. Not too much be sparing, and NEVER sand or wire the shaft and seal lip interface area. Old performance machinist here. Best wishes. Ps those stock connecting rods suck, be careful! They are made from hopes, dreams, and cost cutting measures. AKA nearly useless for real performance. They WILL fail without an Rpm limit..Wiseco proforged pistons rings pins clips and some decent Cro Mo beam rods, and a stud kit will save the entire engine. PsPS only run 100% synthetic oil. ...Dang I left a graveyard of Briggs and IH back then... I once tried to run nitrous on a briggs with no added fuel. Blowtorch Briggs go screeeee clank a clunka and shot sparklers out the exhaust. I was 13...I didnt know it needed fuel too...lol
So much great information!! Thank you so much for taking the time to leave this comment to help me and others out. Thank you for watching my video as well!!
Was going to go with sealant but i was worried about the back spacing of the cam and crank. The case is what holds the back end of the shafts into the engine. The gasket thickness is specific in that sense
I've come to realize that you must have all the necessary parts even before you dismantle that engine. Makes things go so much easier.
Having the gasket would have definitely sped this up for me
Yes. Definetly save the pieces.
🔥🔥
dont drag seals across rust, it ruins then the very first time you do it the lips are scratched. ALWAYS, wire brush, sand gently, or wipe with oily rag. and only remove on aan oiled shaft. dont be shy, oils cheap. Go easy coax it off, then before assembly Emory or 1000 grit it til smoth-ish. Not too much be sparing, and NEVER sand or wire the shaft and seal lip interface area.
Old performance machinist here. Best wishes. Ps those stock connecting rods suck, be careful! They are made from hopes, dreams, and cost cutting measures. AKA nearly useless for real performance. They WILL fail without an Rpm limit..Wiseco proforged pistons rings pins clips and some decent Cro Mo beam rods, and a stud kit will save the entire engine. PsPS only run 100% synthetic oil.
...Dang I left a graveyard of Briggs and IH back then... I once tried to run nitrous on a briggs with no added fuel. Blowtorch Briggs go screeeee clank a clunka and shot sparklers out the exhaust. I was 13...I didnt know it needed fuel too...lol
So much great information!! Thank you so much for taking the time to leave this comment to help me and others out. Thank you for watching my video as well!!
Did that clutch work for that engine?
I havent had a chance to get it back onto the bike yet unfortunately. I do plan on upgrading though, this is a bomb waiting to happen
@@ReimaginedWraps very curious I have that same clutch on the same engine I'm in the process of dropping into a lawn mower
Where did you get that carb from?
@@austenschnelle4052 performancemad.com!
They sell all kinds of really cool parts for the predator 670s.
Go old school and make one just saying
Was going to go with sealant but i was worried about the back spacing of the cam and crank. The case is what holds the back end of the shafts into the engine. The gasket thickness is specific in that sense