I usually never comment on RUclips videos but this video is so good he explains everything so simply and he shows you how to do everything and it's not complicated so thankyou very much for this video.
I agree, this is by far the best video I've seen for this process so far... However... zip ties?? bro, REALLY? I'd suggest using the proper size ferrules and a swage tool to crimp the end of the wire loop so you don't risk the loop coming undone or cutting yourself on the cut end of the zip ties.
I just had to come back and comment, every other video on RUclips requires opening the case and removing the shaft and gear. I decide to give this a shot and works like a charm and easily reversible if needed. Thanks for the video, this is what I'm doing to all the 212s now, simple and so effective.
In my opinion the correct way to bypass the governor is to do it internally. "bypassing" the governor as described will only work until the engine reaches a certain speed and activates the centrifugal weights which will overpower the spring and limit the revs anyway. But I will go ahead and try it anyway...
Finally found the guy that leaves a half inch of zip tie afyer he cuts it that causes scrapes and cuts everytime i reach for a wire in an engine bay. Thanks man.
grip the zip tie vertically with a pair of pliers and twist till tail around and around till it breaks off no sharp end left over to cut you up. learned this from an old electrician.
On the OEM, (please pause the video at 1:40) the main throttle lever is NOT hooked to the carb. It is hooked to the governor which then IT controls the throttle based on the internal mechanism that limits rpm/response along with your input. Bottom line, the governor lever has final say so in the throttle/butterflys position. By hooking directly to the carb or the governor arm which directly hooks to the carb you have eliminated its ability to alter your input by giving you a direct connection. No governor action is capable when your right thumb is directly connected to the carb's butterfly. Those who say this won't work should put their dad's tools away, go back to their parent's basement and warm up a hot pocket.
What do you do with the governor if you've installed an aftermarket carb that has the tradition slide? The stock carb and assembly above it are obviously gone, but the governor is still there. I am not getting fuel to the carb even through the new throttle works. I appreciate your advice/direction.
@@allenwilson1864 it actually does work man. But instead of bashing it on there you get the lead weights that have the hole all the way through the center. Thread the cable through and put it where you want it and heat it with a blow torch until its close to melting and it will fuse to the cable. Ive done this many times. Works well. Use a blow torch with MAP gas
A simple propane torch will accomplish the task. But it is a good idea to clean the cable with alcohol and put a drop or to of soldering Flux where you intend to attach the sinker.
I totally did this also !!! And it did work !!! I did a mikuni carburetor conversion but my throttle cable didn't have the ball or anything on the end, no worries get out thee old fishing tackle, pick the right size sinker and voila!!! Hahaha glad I wasn't the only one to think of this !!
Instead of a zip tie for the cable end with no fitting on it, you could use a 10=12 gauge electrical crimp connector. Probably a little more durable. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
You just left the governor mechanism engaged . Doing this will make the engine tends to reduce the throttle openning when it reaches the set value ( 3000 rpm ) and this tendancy will be opposite to the force of your throttle lever or handle what ever you use , so you will have oppsite forces acting against each other. I recommend taking out the governer lever and keep the spring attached to a fixed position instead so that the throttle gets back to idle position when you release it.
Sorry I’m trying to do this now, and so your saying take off the long skinny rod? So then there will just be return spring and throttle cable connected to the arm?
Zip tie the governor spring. Takes 5 minutes. Same outcome, way easier, and you keep the stock linkage which is very useful. Its cool that you came up with your own way though, never would have thought of doing that.
@@justnature1900 i see what she means. If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this
He is actually not bypassing the Governor he is wiring directly to the governor. - Therefore not letting the governor do its job. - A lot safer to remove the gear btw.
Thanks for this. I noticed this configuration on the KT 196 ENGINE, I know its got more juice than its produced to make. This video explains very well what is needed or not needed.
Remove the guvnah arm and bore the mounting hole reinstall pinch bolt, the arm will move freely with no effect of the governor . You must reinstall the tank to keep arm from coming up and off of shaft, it could be cross drilled and cotter pin would work if you run with out the tank
Me speaking from experience if you bypass the governor gear whether it’s a predator engine or not, you better be committing to oil changes every 60 drive hours because the governor gear is what protects all those small moving gears from exploding inside the casing so if you do the general maintenance on it at thehours that the owners manual says and keep making sure there’s oil in it then yeah it won’t blow up but if you’re buying it, and it will be great to do maintenance on it. Then your engine will yeet itself into existence after five years of not changing or more.
this video helped me with 2 things l need to fix, one is to put my lawn mower direct bypass all the bs, & second the emergency break cable on my mr2, spyder , gona rigg it
instead of using zip ties try using a fishing sinker, the kind with a hole through the center. once on where you want it either crimp it on very tightly (temporary) or heat it with a small torch until it melts enough to make it permanent. it can still be removed by reheating it later and looks professional/factory made. bending the wire is now not needed.
@@JoseRodriguez-en8bo lol so yeah it already happened bout a year ago my dude, and yeah, it tore the frame up on the 3ed run, needless to say I won't do that again
The only problem I've heard of with just bypassing the governor like this is even though it won't effect your speed, that gear in there will still be spinning at very high speeds (speeds it's not meant for) and that gear could break and cause problems in the engine.
What I did to hold the cable in place is secured it in the cable clamp closest to the arm, and put the cable around and into the arm hole. And then I took a bolt and nut to clamp the cable in the spot I wanted. Rode my minibike real hard today and had no problem.
Been watching all the videos just found this vid from a few years back. You're right you can bypass the governor of this way and if people don't Full Throttle it into Infinity they should be okay but if they max out the RPMs for too long that plastic Governor gear could explode inside. It could just be chewed up by the steel internals but it could cause problems I guess
Yes I have learned from previous mistakes that maxing rpm’s with this setup for to long will completely destroy that plastic housing and a suggestion is that you fully tenths gov
@@a_gokart_kid1259how long do u think it will last if u hold it for to long. And I’m thinkings about doing it how long do u think the engine will last if u are careful.
I did the same thing, let’s just say my neighbor no longer buys gas lawn mowers because when they stop working and he throws them out I fix them then destroy them the fun way So governor is long gone, muffler long gone, and blade long gone due to safety issues And golly was I surprised how loud it really is and damn those brigs motors are good
@@archietheproto7706 Than the would probably due to the intake not large enough to supply any more air than at 4700 RPM.d Naturally aspirated vacuum limited RPM. A blower would be needed beyond that.,
@@danburch9989 they build these engines with after market intake adapters and mikuni carbs with header pipes, cams, strocker engines and the list goes on these engines can be built to rev over 9000 rpm and make over 20 horse power
8:30 but remember, the governor is out for blood and is becoming stronger every day for revenge a pond its friends and family you gruesomely beheaded at 2:34
FireAndGasoline very true but still a lazy, bad idea...... Just take it off right,. Its just as simple with the added benefit of doing things correctly,. No hate,. Just speaking the truth.......
This explained why my sons mini bike beat mine lmao his is hooked up this way thing hits like 45 stock with gov, I put a fresh 212 on mine with exhaust and this helped me beat him 😈 thanks brotha your the man 🤙🏽👊🏽👊🏽
I watched this just to see how the springs and such are hooked up, thank you... my Predator still does not start but this video is helpful.. so must not be the way it is hooked up, but found I am missing one the springs that attaches to the throttle action on carburetor. My configuration is for a leaf blower, engine was put on a Giant VAC to replace an older Briggs engine, so my throttle cable comes in from the front side "pull starter" side and don't want the action to spring back automatically because it is not used like a gas pedal, like a go kart. Once throttle is set on a leaf blower, you want it to stay on by itself and control throttle with the cable / lever.
I just got a mini bike with a Trimmer engine can you tell me how to switch one of this engines and where to get it and the price please🙏🤾♂️ in simple words please😁
Unless you put in a performance cam there is no reason to delete the governor. The highest stock engine torque/hp sweet spot happens at 3600 rpm, set the governor by adjusting the linkage stop screw or tightening the governor spring to achieve that 3600 rpm. That's as much power as you can get with a stock engine, you will get less power at higher rpm. Also unless you install a billet connecting rod the stock one will break at high rpm and the cast iron flywheel will develop hairline cracks and soon shatter. The pieces will fly at you like shrapnel from a land mine, a billet flywheel is needed. Additionally, stock valve springs will float causing them to send explosive shockwaves throughout the engine head unless they are replaced with stronger ones. Removing a governor using any method is nothing to mess with unless you know what you are doing, it's dangerous. If this guy were older he would have seen engines blow up, and have more common sense. All the pro-kart racers know this, it's common knowledge.
The reason the governor is on there is for standard applications like running equipment and machinery. The reason we remove it is for better throttle response, not more rpms. As long as you don't over rev it, you should be fine.
@braddo1972 No, the governor stops it AT full rpm, in this case 2500 rpms. Anything over that would be over reving and you have a better chance of damaging the engine unless you install better engine components like a billet flywheel, crank rod, piston and I would also put in some better springs in it if you want to over rev it. And might as well do a cam at this point, you are in it deep enough. Better yet, just buy the ghost engine.
That's another myth. Removing the governor does not and can not change throttle response. The other very popular myth is that you can't get full throttle with the governor and stock linkage. I get full throttle on my governed minibike engines. My engines would never perform the way they do if these were true.
@Deucealive75 No myth. I've done it enough times on several different motors. I race lawn tractors my whole life. Sure you can over-ride or bypass the governor. But it is better to remove it all together. You don't want to rev it higher than the max rpm as stock. The magnets could fly off the flywheel, or the flywheel can explode in general. And If you don't believe me that's fine. I just hope you, your friends, or family don't get hurt when yours explodes.
Predator engines won’t blow up ungoverned with stock internals. I raced a predator 212 with a Briggs animal 206cc racing 26mm carb and a Honda racing exhaust as well as a vacuum fuel system, on my professional racing gokart for 3 years. Never even had a sign of wear.
Cars and cameras method is better, just take the side cover off, remove the governor gear, reinstall the cover. You keep all the original linkage and don't need to have 6" to 8" inches running from your clamp to the arm. But not saying this won't work.
@@16driver16 no you don't. You just remove the governor arm and gear and washers etc, and cut the arm off inside the case with a dremel. Keeping the arm sticking out of the case with the governor linkage intacked and still useable. Ive seen it done this way and works very well. Leave a slight bent on the governor arm INSIDE the case. Will keep the arm from coming out and then make sure to put the clip back on.
@@joeshmo2473 i suppose you could leave all that linkage on there, ive never done it that way myself but ive since upgraded to a mikuni and ill never go back.
@@16driver16 yeah your absolutely right about the mikuni. The only thing that sucks is the price. A genuine 26mm mikuni will run anywhere from 90 to 120 but they are sooo worth the money. I have one on my pitbike and it screams and the throttle response is much crispier.
Doing it this way you will be fighting the governor weights passably causing the governor to break beings it is only plastic and eventually damage the engine. Ether use the governor all the way or remove all the way. I have been a auto mechanic for 39 years and the best way to do the throttle linkage is with the lever the way the engine was designed to work. The governor can be changed to govern out at a higher rpm. I have the governor on my hemi predator 212 at 6500 rpm I also balanced the engine so it doesn't rattle apart from being unbalanced and shaking.
Exactly, either people's parents are the ones shelling out the money for these, they are intellectually deficient from crashing "a sick build" they "modified" or they're wealthy enough that its inconsequential to them (they should just pay someone to do it). Regardless, take the 30 minutes or $20 & do it correctly. Also posting obscenities in statement does not make you or your opinions seem more credible especially when you cant form a coherent sentence on a machine that tries to correct you 3 different ways while you type. My 2 & 1/2cents
The range of things people treat as disposable is appalling. Im not saying people should be reusing Q-tips but come on. People have this notion "Ill just chuck it and get a new one no biggie its just one motor and I'm just one person'". The problem is 10 million other lazy aholes are thinking the same thing(if the 2nd thought even penetrates their thick skull at all) and IT ADDS UP. I think the collection of ridiculous radical tree huggers that reuse a grocery bag 5 times are a joke BUT, common sense is common sense. Call it 3 cents
If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this.
+Trenton Smith the low oil cut off switch will shut the engine off sometimes even if the oil is not low and it also should be removed if the engine is being made into a racing engine
Don’t need to do this, but I learned what all the parts are for on that speed control. Had same unit on a 228cc, then put a predator on the splitter. Learned to disconnect the oil pressure cut off today. Now it starts on a quarter pull, rather than several to apparently get the oil pressure up enough to start.
These engines do not have oil pressure or an oil pressure switch. What you disconnected was the oil low switch. When the oil level gets low enough the switch will ground out the coil and shut off the engine. They get removed or disconnected for the minibike and go kart applications.
Smh. I removed governor in 15 mins. Open case, rip out gear. Push arm all the way up. Grind off some shaft(after removing arm and all that b.s he is f'ing with). Pull out arm from bottom.. Lazy way without taking out rod and blah. Tap hole where arm came out block before. Screw with ruber washer/lock tight. Clean everything nice... put it back. Boom! No governor.
steven r funny you should say that! He is using the Governor arm as the throttle cable so in fact he isn’t bypassing the Governor at all he threw away the good arm and kept the Governor arm no point!
Had you had any issues with the engine not wanting to start after this mod? My engine isn't running right now. Its surging real bad, and very hard to start. It's a brand new engine.
Great method. With a little ingenuity, you can make it look better. A spring bracket that looks like OEM made it, and a throttle cable clamp on the governor arm.
That's actually not correct, you're still limited. It will surge and you will go top speed then slow down repeatedly, I just take the throttle arm and put it directly to the carb eliminating all the springs
so glad i watched this. i did the cut the hockey stick with bolt cutters and removed the gear, leaving the arm and linkage for stock appearing between a couple buddies....looks like it's going to work!!!
yes it makes it run at higher RPM the result is that you get more speed+power at the higher RPM, but, higher RPM makes engine last less long because it is working harder.
Well the point of a governer is to limit the rpm, by bypassing it you'll get alot more performance but you're also stressing the engine more because it's now running at 5200rpm max instead of 3600rpm max.
@@DRpotatoYT yeah, "should" is not enough for a flywheel literally behind my neck 😁 i made some calculations at the time and I was impressed by the forces involved given the weight of it
@@cmh-re at your own risk, I personally haven't had a problem with the stock flywheel but to be safe I put a billet one in there. I value my legs when I ride my minibikes.
But rather than the governor arm cutting the throttle you’re holding it open not allowing it to cut. Reach back when you’re riding and hold down the governor arm. Same principle. In other words free speed who don’t wanna crack open the engine
Anyone watching this now, don't do this. You have to remove the governor inside the crank case. It's a plastic gear and it isn't designed to exceed 3600 rpm. It will spin apart inside the crank case and destroy the engine. Be warned.
Just purchased a go-kart with this exact engine. This is so simple to follow, especially with the governor setup on these engines, the throttle over time gets stuck open. Thank goodness for kill switches, right? ;) Hey thanks for the video. This was helpful!
So, if I'll keep the governor it'll be safer for the engine? I just need the throttle cable attached to the motor, so I could use the throttle lever on my walk behind tractor.
you can leave all that stuff on and just put two small zip ties around the spring and tighten till you get the right rpm the gov kicks in adjust accordingly.
@@noahnubbs there is a spring for the governor arm, just add 2 small zip ties inside to keep it from stretching open tight till you get the rpm you want.
The governor is still there you're basically fighting the governor the best thing to do is to open the engine up and cut the arm on the inside so the governor can't do anything
I just did this on my Huasheng Honda clone. No other modifications and now it shoots fire 🔥 😂 Pity I can't ride my kart thanks to a seized clutch. Just waiting on Amazon now 😒
Removing the governor is a good trick,(if you run the streets) at WOT! LOL! I trail ride my mini bike, and I'm more interested in low end torque, than high RPM. I use a CVT and a 60 tooth rear sprocket on my bike. It pulls like a tractor, but still hit's 32 mph with my 254 lbs.riding on it!
To make a ball on the end of a cable, bend the end, then wrap some copper wire (or some other wire you have layin around) inside the bend and around it, then solder it. I used to do that with clutch cables on dirt bikes when I was a kid.
Gregory Nage, he was showing you how to bypass the governor. I'm sure he knew that he didn't hook the spring up, but that had nothing to do with what this video was about. I would bet $1000 he hooked the spring up when he decided to run the motor. You really couldn't have just bit your tongue on that one huh? I bet you were a snitch all through school and had no friends
All you did was change the linkage points you did nothing to the governor except hooked a spring to the other side replacing the one that did the same thing that handle you threw away is just to manually adjust the rpm of the engine and holds it in that position you need to watch a RUclips video on the governor removal there is a lot more to it than that
No lawn mower needs the governor removed unless you remove the deck and just ride around on it with a manual throttle. Bypassing on a push mower would be really stupid.
I hooked one of those springs up on my 196cc and even with a performance exhaust the motorcycle wouldn't go 20 MPH. Was not having it took the spring back off and just have that tiny one connected to the carburetor throttle lever to spring it back to idle. It does at least 40 MPH now. I know there's the governor gear in the engine is that still taking away power? I'm going to leave it until I get an aluminum flywheel anyway
What were all the parts you toss saying we dont need them anymore. The governor is that arm right? So what were the parts that were connected to it that basically served no function that you said we can throw them away?
See what you need are some good valve springs, a mod 2 cam, an arc billet rod, a billet flat top piston, and a better flywheel. Then take that governor off and rip 👍
Rather B Welcing so how did it go with the bypass is right way to bypass governor? Only asking because i see a lot of negative comments want to hear it from you! Thank you.
@@jman1239 yes, but then the cast flywheel shatters like a grenade. Then you get a billet flywheel and the connecting rod fails. Then your valve colet fails after you get a billet connecting rod so you need stainless valves. Its always a snowball effect lol
Jim Holesaw ...I see you’ve “been there done that” as well😆 must admit it’s fun trying to get a few extra HP/LB-FT out of a 5-10 hp engine! My thinking brain has however did the math. When going to harbor fright(spelling is correct for all intended purposes) to buy a new engine it would be cheaper to buy a 15-25hp engine than buying a 6hp unit and getting 7-15hp with many $’s on hi-perf. Parts. 🤷♂️😆
@@dieselsmiths yeah i have about $1200 in my 30hp minibike. If you go with more displacement youll have more torque but not rpms and since we dont have transmissions. It goes back to that big block vs small block battle. 15hp with a 212 that has 36 jet a 265 lift dyno cam and exhaust with 26lb springs $120 roughly.
@@dieselsmiths yeah i have about $1200 in my 30hp minibike. If you go with more displacement youll have more torque but not rpms and since we dont have transmissions. It goes back to that big block vs small block battle. 15hp with a 212 that has 36 jet a 265 lift dyno cam and exhaust with 26lb springs $120 roughly.
lol i did the same thing to a lawnmower that i got for free even before watching this video all it is is just attaching a cable directly to the carburetor
I usually never comment on RUclips videos but this video is so good he explains everything so simply and he shows you how to do everything and it's not complicated so thankyou very much for this video.
Amen brother. Simple, effective, and awesome camera work!
I agree, this is by far the best video I've seen for this process so far... However... zip ties?? bro, REALLY? I'd suggest using the proper size ferrules and a swage tool to crimp the end of the wire loop so you don't risk the loop coming undone or cutting yourself on the cut end of the zip ties.
I just had to come back and comment, every other video on RUclips requires opening the case and removing the shaft and gear. I decide to give this a shot and works like a charm and easily reversible if needed. Thanks for the video, this is what I'm doing to all the 212s now, simple and so effective.
i did this and the top speed is like 35 on my go kart with a stage 1, you think this does the same thing if we removed it from inside?
@@Young_king888 I get 30 on mine stock....
In my opinion the correct way to bypass the governor is to do it internally. "bypassing" the governor as described will only work until the engine reaches a certain speed and activates the centrifugal weights which will overpower the spring and limit the revs anyway. But I will go ahead and try it anyway...
@@aldobarone7398 I'd be interested in your outcome. Pondering just going ahead and doing it internally, but I'm lazy.
Removing the plastic parts internally is the correct way....Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿😇
Finally found the guy that leaves a half inch of zip tie afyer he cuts it that causes scrapes and cuts everytime i reach for a wire in an engine bay. Thanks man.
Did this guy teach you how to use a zip tie😂😂
Lol
it annoyed me but i wasnt gonna comment
grip the zip tie vertically with a pair of pliers and twist till tail around and around till it breaks off no sharp end left over to cut you up. learned this from an old electrician.
He was just demonstrating. Obviously he's going to run the other way or you could just put a wire crimp on there
On the OEM, (please pause the video at 1:40) the main throttle lever is NOT hooked to the carb. It is hooked to the governor which then IT controls the throttle based on the internal mechanism that limits rpm/response along with your input. Bottom line, the governor lever has final say so in the throttle/butterflys position. By hooking directly to the carb or the governor arm which directly hooks to the carb you have eliminated its ability to alter your input by giving you a direct connection. No governor action is capable when your right thumb is directly connected to the carb's butterfly. Those who say this won't work should put their dad's tools away, go back to their parent's basement and warm up a hot pocket.
What do you do with the governor if you've installed an aftermarket carb that has the tradition slide? The stock carb and assembly above it are obviously gone, but the governor is still there. I am not getting fuel to the carb even through the new throttle works. I appreciate your advice/direction.
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So you pulling the governer with the throttle and bridging from that so no direct to the butterfly on the carb if you get my drift
Hey hey ! How about if I like pizza bites instead of hot pockets huh ?
If your missing the ball on the end of a throttle cable just smash a lead fishing Sinker on there
that does'nt work. lol. I wish it did
@@allenwilson1864 it actually does work man. But instead of bashing it on there you get the lead weights that have the hole all the way through the center. Thread the cable through and put it where you want it and heat it with a blow torch until its close to melting and it will fuse to the cable. Ive done this many times. Works well. Use a blow torch with MAP gas
Like I said smashing it does not work. Melting it on does.
A simple propane torch will accomplish the task. But it is a good idea to clean the cable with alcohol and put a drop or to of soldering Flux where you intend to attach the sinker.
I totally did this also !!! And it did work !!! I did a mikuni carburetor conversion but my throttle cable didn't have the ball or anything on the end, no worries get out thee old fishing tackle, pick the right size sinker and voila!!! Hahaha glad I wasn't the only one to think of this !!
Instead of a zip tie for the cable end with no fitting on it, you could use a 10=12 gauge electrical crimp connector. Probably a little more durable. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking the same thing, or even a fishing weight.
You just left the governor mechanism engaged .
Doing this will make the engine tends to reduce the throttle openning when it reaches the set value ( 3000 rpm ) and this tendancy will be opposite to the force of your throttle lever or handle what ever you use , so you will have oppsite forces acting against each other.
I recommend taking out the governer lever and keep the spring attached to a fixed position instead so that the throttle gets back to idle position when you release it.
Sorry I’m trying to do this now, and so your saying take off the long skinny rod? So then there will just be return spring and throttle cable connected to the arm?
@@stevenhedrick1071ķķ
Zip tie the governor spring. Takes 5 minutes. Same outcome, way easier, and you keep the stock linkage which is very useful. Its cool that you came up with your own way though, never would have thought of doing that.
you need to make a video
@@justnature1900 i see what she means. If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this
Doesn’t work as effectively
Great video. Much easier this way versus removing the actual internal governor gear.
This was the only and best video for my 196cc go kart to get the governor removed and it work great as soon I started it up
He is actually not bypassing the Governor he is wiring directly to the governor. - Therefore not letting the governor do its job. - A lot safer to remove the gear btw.
ThunderDivine yes mate, my thoughts exactly, he hasnt took the governor arm off ?? But there are many ways to do this.
Bypass and removing are two different terms
It still works, and he said that he's done it before
Looks like a bypass to me
It works that's all that matters . Make huge difference in power
Thanks for this. I noticed this configuration on the KT 196 ENGINE, I know its got more juice than its produced to make. This video explains very well what is needed or not needed.
Remove the guvnah arm and bore the mounting hole reinstall pinch bolt, the arm will move freely with no effect of the governor . You must reinstall the tank to keep arm from coming up and off of shaft, it could be cross drilled and cotter pin would work if you run with out the tank
Finally somebody to explain how to do it, not what he have done already. Thank you very much!
Me speaking from experience if you bypass the governor gear whether it’s a predator engine or not, you better be committing to oil changes every 60 drive hours because the governor gear is what protects all those small moving gears from exploding inside the casing so if you do the general maintenance on it at thehours that the owners manual says and keep making sure there’s oil in it then yeah it won’t blow up but if you’re buying it, and it will be great to do maintenance on it. Then your engine will yeet itself into existence after five years of not changing or more.
this video helped me with 2 things l need to fix, one is to put my lawn mower direct bypass all the bs, & second the emergency break cable on my mr2, spyder , gona rigg it
instead of using zip ties try using a fishing sinker, the kind with a hole through the center. once on where you want it either crimp it on very tightly (temporary) or heat it with a small torch until it melts enough to make it permanent. it can still be removed by reheating it later and looks professional/factory made. bending the wire is now not needed.
this helped a lot, getting ready to put a 212 on a beach cruiser bike. wanted alil more power
I advise you to check out a couple other videos just to be safe bud. You'll understand why after you see a few other videos.
@@JoseRodriguez-en8bo lol so yeah it already happened bout a year ago my dude, and yeah, it tore the frame up on the 3ed run, needless to say I won't do that again
The only problem I've heard of with just bypassing the governor like this is even though it won't effect your speed, that gear in there will still be spinning at very high speeds (speeds it's not meant for) and that gear could break and cause problems in the engine.
So u think id be better just to remove the governer by the inside
@@Ephixa06 if you're ok with doing it, yeah. It's just a little more safe in my opinion and then you never have to worry about the governor again
What I did to hold the cable in place is secured it in the cable clamp closest to the arm, and put the cable around and into the arm hole. And then I took a bolt and nut to clamp the cable in the spot I wanted. Rode my minibike real hard today and had no problem.
Hey just keep doing what your doing love watching your videos thanks for working so hard
I like your channel because it’s as close to what I have at home than other channels that seems like you need a sponsor to fix the smallest things lol
Been watching all the videos just found this vid from a few years back. You're right you can bypass the governor of this way and if people don't Full Throttle it into Infinity they should be okay but if they max out the RPMs for too long that plastic Governor gear could explode inside. It could just be chewed up by the steel internals but it could cause problems I guess
Yes I have learned from previous mistakes that maxing rpm’s with this setup for to long will completely destroy that plastic housing and a suggestion is that you fully tenths gov
@@a_gokart_kid1259how long do u think it will last if u hold it for to long. And I’m thinkings about doing it how long do u think the engine will last if u are careful.
Thank you for the simple video finally someone who can easily show how to do something no bs
Even easier way of doing it is to not do any of that and just run a zip tie through the governor spring. Nothing else needed
Thank you ! Friggin governor on my mower is a Pain.Now I know what to do other than rip the whole thing apart.
I did the same thing, let’s just say my neighbor no longer buys gas lawn mowers because when they stop working and he throws them out I fix them then destroy them the fun way
So governor is long gone, muffler long gone, and blade long gone due to safety issues
And golly was I surprised how loud it really is and damn those brigs motors are good
Thank you. Neighbor lady asked me for help with her go cart so here I am figuring out how to adjust it
Short stroke engines are designed as high RPM engines but low torque. This engine is a 70mm bore (
It only goes to 4700rpm without governor
100's of thousands of people have done this, the tests have been done to death...
@@archietheproto7706 Than the would probably due to the intake not large enough to supply any more air than at 4700 RPM.d Naturally aspirated vacuum limited RPM. A blower would be needed beyond that.,
The valves will float before you reach that rpm.
@@danburch9989 they build these engines with after market intake adapters and mikuni carbs with header pipes, cams, strocker engines and the list goes on these engines can be built to rev over 9000 rpm and make over 20 horse power
8:30 but remember, the governor is out for blood and is becoming stronger every day for revenge a pond its friends and family you gruesomely beheaded at 2:34
Leaving it as is and putting a ziptie in the govenor spring(the long one you reused) would have given you the same results in under 30 seconds.
FireAndGasoline I just modified the governor to govern out at a higher rpm then I still can extreme over rev the engine.
Silent Death
If you mess with any Briggs v twins they make a 4000rpm spring kit.
can you show us in a video, im new to this, and i dont understand what you said.
yep can confirm
FireAndGasoline very true but still a lazy, bad idea...... Just take it off right,. Its just as simple with the added benefit of doing things correctly,. No hate,. Just speaking the truth.......
This explained why my sons mini bike beat mine lmao his is hooked up this way thing hits like 45 stock with gov, I put a fresh 212 on mine with exhaust and this helped me beat him 😈 thanks brotha your the man 🤙🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Good explanation of the process. Also, I appreciate the good lighting and steady camera work.
I watched this just to see how the springs and such are hooked up, thank you... my Predator still does not start but this video is helpful.. so must not be the way it is hooked up, but found I am missing one the springs that attaches to the throttle action on carburetor. My configuration is for a leaf blower, engine was put on a Giant VAC to replace an older Briggs engine, so my throttle cable comes in from the front side "pull starter" side and don't want the action to spring back automatically because it is not used like a gas pedal, like a go kart. Once throttle is set on a leaf blower, you want it to stay on by itself and control throttle with the cable / lever.
I did to my predator 212cc its still running good . Great video
I just got a mini bike with a Trimmer engine can you tell me how to switch one of this engines and where to get it and the price please🙏🤾♂️ in simple words please😁
@@danielandujar5479 harbor freight
Love how you just ripped it out the box and tossed everything
Unless you put in a performance cam there is no reason to delete the governor. The highest stock engine torque/hp sweet spot happens at 3600 rpm, set the governor by adjusting the linkage stop screw or tightening the governor spring to achieve that 3600 rpm. That's as much power as you can get with a stock engine, you will get less power at higher rpm. Also unless you install a billet connecting rod the stock one will break at high rpm and the cast iron flywheel will develop hairline cracks and soon shatter. The pieces will fly at you like shrapnel from a land mine, a billet flywheel is needed. Additionally, stock valve springs will float causing them to send explosive shockwaves throughout the engine head unless they are replaced with stronger ones. Removing a governor using any method is nothing to mess with unless you know what you are doing, it's dangerous. If this guy were older he would have seen engines blow up, and have more common sense. All the pro-kart racers know this, it's common knowledge.
lol ok go powersports salesmen the fucking fly wheel ain’t going to turn into a land mine who cares if you blow up a stock engine there only $100 😂
The reason the governor is on there is for standard applications like running equipment and machinery. The reason we remove it is for better throttle response, not more rpms. As long as you don't over rev it, you should be fine.
Nope it will give more rpm because the governer prevents full rpm
@braddo1972 No, the governor stops it AT full rpm, in this case 2500 rpms. Anything over that would be over reving and you have a better chance of damaging the engine unless you install better engine components like a billet flywheel, crank rod, piston and I would also put in some better springs in it if you want to over rev it. And might as well do a cam at this point, you are in it deep enough. Better yet, just buy the ghost engine.
That's another myth. Removing the governor does not and can not change throttle response. The other very popular myth is that you can't get full throttle with the governor and stock linkage. I get full throttle on my governed minibike engines. My engines would never perform the way they do if these were true.
@Deucealive75 No myth. I've done it enough times on several different motors. I race lawn tractors my whole life. Sure you can over-ride or bypass the governor. But it is better to remove it all together. You don't want to rev it higher than the max rpm as stock. The magnets could fly off the flywheel, or the flywheel can explode in general. And If you don't believe me that's fine. I just hope you, your friends, or family don't get hurt when yours explodes.
Predator engines won’t blow up ungoverned with stock internals. I raced a predator 212 with a Briggs animal 206cc racing 26mm carb and a Honda racing exhaust as well as a vacuum fuel system, on my professional racing gokart for 3 years. Never even had a sign of wear.
Cars and cameras method is better, just take the side cover off, remove the governor gear, reinstall the cover. You keep all the original linkage and don't need to have 6" to 8" inches running from your clamp to the arm. But not saying this won't work.
dave1135 You have to modify the stock linkage to remove the governor like your saying(done it many times), but agreed it is much better.
E.
@@16driver16 no you don't. You just remove the governor arm and gear and washers etc, and cut the arm off inside the case with a dremel. Keeping the arm sticking out of the case with the governor linkage intacked and still useable. Ive seen it done this way and works very well. Leave a slight bent on the governor arm INSIDE the case. Will keep the arm from coming out and then make sure to put the clip back on.
@@joeshmo2473 i suppose you could leave all that linkage on there, ive never done it that way myself but ive since upgraded to a mikuni and ill never go back.
@@16driver16 yeah your absolutely right about the mikuni. The only thing that sucks is the price. A genuine 26mm mikuni will run anywhere from 90 to 120 but they are sooo worth the money. I have one on my pitbike and it screams and the throttle response is much crispier.
Doing it this way you will be fighting the governor weights passably causing the governor to break beings it is only plastic and eventually damage the engine. Ether use the governor all the way or remove all the way. I have been a auto mechanic for 39 years and the best way to do the throttle linkage is with the lever the way the engine was designed to work. The governor can be changed to govern out at a higher rpm. I have the governor on my hemi predator 212 at 6500 rpm I also balanced the engine so it doesn't rattle apart from being unbalanced and shaking.
Can you explain more clearly how to adjust the governor so it will rev at a higher speed thank you
They make so little force it can be controled by a spring.
Exactly, either people's parents are the ones shelling out the money for these, they are intellectually deficient from crashing "a sick build" they "modified" or they're wealthy enough that its inconsequential to them (they should just pay someone to do it). Regardless, take the 30 minutes or $20 & do it correctly. Also posting obscenities in statement does not make you or your opinions seem more credible especially when you cant form a coherent sentence on a machine that tries to correct you 3 different ways while you type. My 2 & 1/2cents
The range of things people treat as disposable is appalling. Im not saying people should be reusing Q-tips but come on. People have this notion "Ill just chuck it and get a new one no biggie its just one motor and I'm just one person'". The problem is 10 million other lazy aholes are thinking the same thing(if the 2nd thought even penetrates their thick skull at all) and IT ADDS UP. I think the collection of ridiculous radical tree huggers that reuse a grocery bag 5 times are a joke BUT, common sense is common sense. Call it 3 cents
@@jmc5341 Or how to use the correct spelling of "there" rather than "their".
If you watch the governor spring from the throttle to gov arm, its got a certain "give" that prevents it from opening fully. Zip tie the coils and it essentially becomes a rod instead of a spring. I may try this.
I did this and it helped me so much thanks for the help
Thank you man, this really helped out a lot. 💯
one more thing you might wanna remove is the low oil cut off switch
Donovan Bryant why would you need to do that
T8opnjh💍💎🛂🚤🚀🚉🚸🚷🚵🚴🚳🚲⛵🛅🛄🛃🚶⛽🅿🚥🐶🐴🐖🐁🐈🐈🐱🐩🐇🐰🐓🐮🐄🐂🐃🐺🐐🐑🐏🐦🐥🐩🐤🐣🐔
If you're byutiful you can have a spris
+Trenton Smith the low oil cut off switch will shut the engine off sometimes even if the oil is not low and it also should be removed if the engine is being made into a racing engine
I put a screw through it so it doesn't make connection.
Don’t need to do this, but I learned what all the parts are for on that speed control. Had same unit on a 228cc, then put a predator on the splitter. Learned to disconnect the oil pressure cut off today. Now it starts on a quarter pull, rather than several to apparently get the oil pressure up enough to start.
These engines do not have oil pressure or an oil pressure switch. What you disconnected was the oil low switch. When the oil level gets low enough the switch will ground out the coil and shut off the engine. They get removed or disconnected for the minibike and go kart applications.
Smh. I removed governor in 15 mins. Open case, rip out gear. Push arm all the way up. Grind off some shaft(after removing arm and all that b.s he is f'ing with). Pull out arm from bottom..
Lazy way without taking out rod and blah. Tap hole where arm came out block before. Screw with ruber washer/lock tight. Clean everything nice... put it back. Boom! No governor.
steven r funny you should say that! He is using the Governor arm as the throttle cable so in fact he isn’t bypassing the Governor at all he threw away the good arm and kept the Governor arm no point!
Need to warm the Motor for 15 min before doing that gov removal
Had my motor wide open but u showed me I needed another spring 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👨💻
I was just wondering if something like this could be done! Thanks!!!
yeah, good video. explains it in simple terms. but as for the zip tie, NO. use a cable clamp.
Cable clamp or metal zip tie
Had you had any issues with the engine not wanting to start after this mod? My engine isn't running right now. Its surging real bad, and very hard to start. It's a brand new engine.
Great method. With a little ingenuity, you can make it look better. A spring bracket that looks like OEM made it, and a throttle cable clamp on the governor arm.
At 2:53 if you remove that screw and keep the whole throttle assembly it will bypass the governor
Mike812 that's I thought ! But even his way the small plastic thing shouldn't even be spinning right ? Or no
That's actually not correct, you're still limited. It will surge and you will go top speed then slow down repeatedly, I just take the throttle arm and put it directly to the carb eliminating all the springs
so glad i watched this. i did the cut the hockey stick with bolt cutters and removed the gear, leaving the arm and linkage for stock appearing between a couple buddies....looks like it's going to work!!!
Hello. Is there a big difference to run gokart with governor and with bypassing it ? Can You really feel the difference ?
Yes, there’s a huge difference.
I know my Go Kart went about 15-20 miles an hour stock and when I bypassed it it went about 35 miles an hour
No not at all, people obviously bypass the Gov because it doesn't make a difference lol
@@killaz123456789100 It makes a big difference at least on what I am doing maybe not for you tho
@@domwhalen7348 i think they were joking
IS REMOVING GOVERNOR FUNCTION GIVE YOU MORE HP AND SPEED WHEN USING ON A GO KART?
yes it makes it run at higher RPM
the result is that you get more speed+power at the higher RPM, but, higher RPM makes engine last less long because it is working harder.
I did this with new engine and it rattles at high sped that good
Well the point of a governer is to limit the rpm, by bypassing it you'll get alot more performance but you're also stressing the engine more because it's now running at 5200rpm max instead of 3600rpm max.
@Visuint depends on the use case and the cooling
Visuint you need to upgrade your internal parts that can handle more rpms.
U are a high sped
Put oil in it
I appreciate your videos buddy!, God bless!
you can cut the cabel whit the welder so thath the ends don't split apart
lg Daniel
Good video you explained things very well
This made my go kart go real QUICK
how much faster
How much faster
Right on. Thank you that is way better then what I just watched awesome video
Lol I did something like this earlier to my Subaru 6.5 hp motor on accident and now I see this video no wonder it felt faster 😂
I am planning to remove the governor completely on that engine, add a mikuni 22 and a rev limiter to 4.5k... not trusting the flywheel
@@cmh-re flywheel should be good to 5500rpm, valve float occurs at 5000-5500
@@DRpotatoYT yeah, "should" is not enough for a flywheel literally behind my neck 😁 i made some calculations at the time and I was impressed by the forces involved given the weight of it
@@cmh-re at your own risk, I personally haven't had a problem with the stock flywheel but to be safe I put a billet one in there. I value my legs when I ride my minibikes.
Thank you for the helpful vid it helped us alot.
The governor arm is still hooked up to the governor,,,so how did this by pass the governor.The throttle cable is hooked up to the governor arm.
fstngone he’s just removed the throttle arm and connected it back to the governor, not bypassed the governor.🤔
Exactly what i was wondering
But rather than the governor arm cutting the throttle you’re holding it open not allowing it to cut. Reach back when you’re riding and hold down the governor arm. Same principle. In other words free speed who don’t wanna crack open the engine
Thats dude going to remove govern from my baja then work on a exhaust thanks for info
So a Governor is a restriction , like Jerry Brown ?
The People's Republik of Kaliforniastan
No, like Cuomo. Prince Andy, King of the let-em free prison reform.
A liberal governor is a restricting governor.....they try to take your freedoms away every chance they get.
Anyone watching this now, don't do this. You have to remove the governor inside the crank case. It's a plastic gear and it isn't designed to exceed 3600 rpm. It will spin apart inside the crank case and destroy the engine. Be warned.
when you are using the cable without the ball you dont need to use zip ties y woud use a cable terminal block its much safer
Very informative 👏 👌 great video 👍
Just purchased a go-kart with this exact engine. This is so simple to follow, especially with the governor setup on these engines, the throttle over time gets stuck open. Thank goodness for kill switches, right? ;) Hey thanks for the video. This was helpful!
if your throttle stays wide open just loosen the nut holding the throttle arm
yo if your throttle sticks you have a problem lol
So, if I'll keep the governor it'll be safer for the engine? I just need the throttle cable attached to the motor, so I could use the throttle lever on my walk behind tractor.
you can leave all that stuff on and just put two small zip ties around the spring and tighten till you get the right rpm the gov kicks in adjust accordingly.
How
@@noahnubbs there is a spring for the governor arm, just add 2 small zip ties inside to keep it from stretching open tight till you get the rpm you want.
@@keithw372 thank uuuuu
Helped me so much... thank you keep up the great work!!
The governor is still there you're basically fighting the governor the best thing to do is to open the engine up and cut the arm on the inside so the governor can't do anything
I just did this on my Huasheng Honda clone. No other modifications and now it shoots fire 🔥 😂 Pity I can't ride my kart thanks to a seized clutch. Just waiting on Amazon now 😒
Removing the governor is a good trick,(if you run the streets) at WOT! LOL! I trail ride my mini bike, and I'm more interested in low end torque, than high RPM. I use a CVT and a 60 tooth rear sprocket on my bike. It pulls like a tractor, but still hit's 32 mph with my 254 lbs.riding on it!
Thank you soooo much man! Helped me a lot! 💯
Soo much confidence yet no idea what he’s doing
That's literally the only way to live 😂😅
To make a ball on the end of a cable, bend the end, then wrap some copper wire (or some other wire you have layin around) inside the bend and around it, then solder it. I used to do that with clutch cables on dirt bikes when I was a kid.
The spring going to the carb, to the left came out of the hole. At 5:40 when you pushed the cable up the first time and you never caught it.
Interesting how you saw that..
Gregory Nage, he was showing you how to bypass the governor. I'm sure he knew that he didn't hook the spring up, but that had nothing to do with what this video was about. I would bet $1000 he hooked the spring up when he decided to run the motor. You really couldn't have just bit your tongue on that one huh? I bet you were a snitch all through school and had no friends
Thank yu .. very great info . I just did this to my motor
Wow man that was helpful as fk! My bike flies now😎 appreciate you🤘🏽
Have you had any issues. I'm thinking of doing this today
Thanks very good job of explaining
All you did was change the linkage points you did nothing to the governor except hooked a spring to the other side replacing the one that did the same thing that handle you threw away is just to manually adjust the rpm of the engine and holds it in that position you need to watch a RUclips video on the governor removal there is a lot more to it than that
That's exactly why the video tytle is called BYPASSING THE GOVERNOR not REMOVING THE GOVERNOR
Quick question for anyone, what is the reason for bypassing the govenor? Will it increase speed? Just wanting my mower to move faster
The governor is just a rev limiter so without it you can run much higher RPMs
No lawn mower needs the governor removed unless you remove the deck and just ride around on it with a manual throttle. Bypassing on a push mower would be really stupid.
I hooked one of those springs up on my 196cc and even with a performance exhaust the motorcycle wouldn't go 20 MPH. Was not having it took the spring back off and just have that tiny one connected to the carburetor throttle lever to spring it back to idle. It does at least 40 MPH now. I know there's the governor gear in the engine is that still taking away power? I'm going to leave it until I get an aluminum flywheel anyway
1/2 Assed workmanship
Did you cut off the chrome thing at the end of the cable to make it longer to attach to the Governor
If you actually bypass it, you need heavier valve springs so you don't ruin your engine
its not interference, you can float valves and not hurt anything
@@brysonshires9742, except performance.
What were all the parts you toss saying we dont need them anymore. The governor is that arm right? So what were the parts that were connected to it that basically served no function that you said we can throw them away?
I bypassed the governor on an old Briggs and it threw the rod 2 weeks later. The governor is there for a reason.
See what you need are some good valve springs, a mod 2 cam, an arc billet rod, a billet flat top piston, and a better flywheel. Then take that governor off and rip 👍
Looks like the governor is still hooked up? Your throttle is still connected to the governor
You should rename this video to "How to grenade your plastic governor gear destroying your 212 engine."
Predators are disposable engines
He has 6 of them that are fine
Bro ur the man keep the vids coming
Predator engines are amazing i love them
Just HATE the way the cylinder head leans back...
The only thing amazing about them is the price. Other than that they are nothing more than a cheap Chinese copy of the Honda GX200.
@Jabo ti bog Anyone who says "personality of a used condom" should've been stopped at the source by one themselves.
Thanks for the very detailed vid, helped a lot!!!!!
I love how you just rip all of the tags and throw them to the side
Rather B Welcing so how did it go with the bypass is right way to bypass governor? Only asking because i see a lot of negative comments want to hear it from you! Thank you.
The valves start to float and then it bends the valves
I know from experience
James Becker wouldn’t getting higher weighted valve springs keep it from doing that ?
@@jman1239 yes, but then the cast flywheel shatters like a grenade. Then you get a billet flywheel and the connecting rod fails. Then your valve colet fails after you get a billet connecting rod so you need stainless valves. Its always a snowball effect lol
Jim Holesaw ...I see you’ve “been there done that” as well😆 must admit it’s fun trying to get a few extra HP/LB-FT out of a 5-10 hp engine! My thinking brain has however did the math. When going to harbor fright(spelling is correct for all intended purposes) to buy a new engine it would be cheaper to buy a 15-25hp engine than buying a 6hp unit and getting 7-15hp with many $’s on hi-perf. Parts. 🤷♂️😆
@@dieselsmiths yeah i have about $1200 in my 30hp minibike. If you go with more displacement youll have more torque but not rpms and since we dont have transmissions. It goes back to that big block vs small block battle. 15hp with a 212 that has 36 jet a 265 lift dyno cam and exhaust with 26lb springs $120 roughly.
@@dieselsmiths yeah i have about $1200 in my 30hp minibike. If you go with more displacement youll have more torque but not rpms and since we dont have transmissions. It goes back to that big block vs small block battle. 15hp with a 212 that has 36 jet a 265 lift dyno cam and exhaust with 26lb springs $120 roughly.
DUDE THANX VERY INFORMATIVE
lol i did the same thing to a lawnmower that i got for free even before watching this video
all it is is just attaching a cable directly to the carburetor