Years ago I was told to put vaseline on the hinge area, epoxy the hinge in place, and then use a straight pin to do the "pegging" of the hinge, but your method looks easier.
Checking other peoples builds on old airplanes I acquired, it is indeed hard to clean epoxy after it hardens, I have taken to cutting off the steel pins to take them apart and putting them back together with regular sewing pins. I have found some that were put together with toothpick pins just like yours. This is in Peoria, Arizona, models built in the 1970's- 1980's still flying. No superglue available then.
Good morning Mark, and the sun is shining for a change. Very good tip for securing the hinges. I must ask, is the covering straight tissue or is it tissue and doculam?
@@MarkRobinson555 I have to admit I am struggling using the Doculam. I am shure it's just a case of getting used to it. I will get there. Thank you again for the videos.
@@terryblackman6217 with the Doculam you can get it quite hot to shrink it, it is a lot tougher than normal covering film, it will take 220deg C no problem, and if you blast difficult bits with a hot air gun it will shrink and not get damaged like covering film. Don't be afraid to get it hot!
@@terryblackman6217 also when applying/ sticking, avoid heating up the film which is to be shrunk, just heat the area to be stuck. Also, don't move your iron along a structure as it causes the film to wrinkle, pull the iron outwards, away from the area to be shrunk, this helps tighten the film. Hope that helps a little
When i was doing my hinges back in the 90's i put small screws in to hold them in place, i never thought of your method with the wooden sticks.
What a brilliant idea, this is why I always follow your videos Mark thanks yet again .
Hi Mark, thanks very much for the comment, so pleased you find the videos useful
Great tip Mark, I’ll be trying this out myself soon!
Excellent, pleased you found it useful, thanks for the comment
Years ago I was told to put vaseline on the hinge area, epoxy the hinge in place, and then use a straight pin to do the "pegging" of the hinge, but your method looks easier.
Thanks for the comment, its appreciated, pleased you are still visiting and watching 😀
El de lo palillos es. Si duda el mejor método!!! Un saludo desde Argentina
Mark fantastic tip. I know how hard it is to remove glued pin hinges 😅😊 Jeff in LA USA
Hi Jeff, pleased you liked the video, thanks for the comment
Ah, the old school ways are the best, glue in your hinges is a real pain, I may just go for pinned hinges in the Mercury elevators 👍
Thanks Cliff, appreciate the comment
Checking other peoples builds on old airplanes I acquired, it is indeed hard to clean epoxy after it hardens, I have taken to cutting off the steel pins to take them apart and putting them back together with regular sewing pins. I have found some that were put together with toothpick pins just like yours. This is in Peoria, Arizona, models built in the 1970's- 1980's still flying. No superglue available then.
Thanks for the comment, always good to share information
Nice, I use small side cutters to trim, then sand.
Good idea, thanks for the comment
Stitches from 1995 in my DB Skyrider elevator & rudder are still fine - if not so neat.Not stiff at all if that is of concern.
Great method....
Many many thanks
Good morning Mark, and the sun is shining for a change. Very good tip for securing the hinges. I must ask, is the covering straight tissue or is it tissue and doculam?
Good morning Terry, thanks for the comment, yes its tissue over Doculam 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 I have to admit I am struggling using the Doculam. I am shure it's just a case of getting used to it. I will get there. Thank you again for the videos.
@@terryblackman6217 do you use messenger? Happy to chat about it is it would help
@@terryblackman6217 with the Doculam you can get it quite hot to shrink it, it is a lot tougher than normal covering film, it will take 220deg C no problem, and if you blast difficult bits with a hot air gun it will shrink and not get damaged like covering film. Don't be afraid to get it hot!
@@terryblackman6217 also when applying/ sticking, avoid heating up the film which is to be shrunk, just heat the area to be stuck. Also, don't move your iron along a structure as it causes the film to wrinkle, pull the iron outwards, away from the area to be shrunk, this helps tighten the film. Hope that helps a little