It’s 2019. Shocking there are only 7 comments so far. This video should have a million plus views. The ignorance of most homeowners and builders is the cause of most problems addressed here. The newest and latest products in the building and construction industry are not always the best. You have to wonder if most of it is developed with the sole intention to create more work and a marketing campaign to keep selling things that just don’t work. Technology will be the end of us...
Captainkidd 1234 . . . I could not agree more with you . The almost absolute ignorance of homeowners & in particular , builders , here in the UK is just staggering . They appear to have not the slightest , basic understanding of building science or physics . I see the same old , flawed , building techniques being employed time & time again . No matter the size of the project or property value . These building developments exhibit for all to see , people do not have a clue . They continue to perpetuate and repeat the same old short term and life long problems that exist in buildings here in the UK . Joe Lstibureks lectures and seminars should be mandatory for any builder / architect and indeed any home owner .
Thank you for explaining the science behind the proper building techniques we've known simply from all the ugly work we've been hired to rip out and replace...
Thank you first of all for this interview. I have a few questions here:, for which the set up will be lengthy, so please bear with me: I have analyzed and performed a cost analysis from both a cost and U- factor (the over all assembled insulative value of an assembly. This takes into view the conductive and thermal factors of an assembly, be it a wall, window, etc...) view point. My concern is, in the process of building as assembly, is the issue of creating a condensation plane that is hidden. I live and build in SW Georgia and North Florida. From a shear cost analysis basis, both a 2x4 wall, 16" O.C. (doubled with a 2" air grap in between) and a 2x6 wall, 24" O.C. cost the same. (There is a ..09 cents per SF difference) So, I am planning to build a double 2x4 assembly with a 2" air gap in between. With that established, my insulation of choice is blown cellulose, so I will end up woth a 9" wall cavity with no a complete thermal break and an R-31 value. So, the wall assembly will be, painted drywall, as the interior finish, 9" of cellulose and a sheathing material, typically a 7/16" OSB, although I am considering 5/8". This is where my question is targeted, wall sheathing and WRB? OSB, is the most affordable product to use (currently $17 per sheet with CDX being $25 per sheet), but because of the glues used, is not nearly as vapor permeable. So, what is an affective and cost concious choice for shealthing? Secondly, Tyvek, in my mind is at best a C or D product. What WRB is going to give me the vapor barrier I need, while allowing a Vapor Permenance factor that won't cause a moisture plane on the inside of the shealthing material? By the way, I plan to use 3/4" furring on the exterior sheathing to create the drainage plane. I like the Hardie material finishes of the world, but I from a maintenance point of view, vinyl siding wins out? I just finished cleaning my 22 year old home which has vinyl siding and it looks brand new again! By the way, I am a 45 year custom builder and I hate vinyl siding, but used it on my own house for this very reason.
Awesome video, going down the rat hole. He mentions CA as only needing 2 layers of wrap paper, but anywhere above 20" if rain needs air gap. Bay Area has 24 inches of rain, i guess not all CA follows this rule?
Often he says that it's not a problem if the rockwool on the outside of a wall gets wet.. Doesn't it loose the performance? In his perfect wall is cladding, space, insulation, control, wall etc
Great presentation, you mentioned that for stucco you prefer a WRB of 10-20 perm. The ProClima Adhero WRB is 7 perm. Would this work still work in Florida with plywood and a 1/4 rainscreen? Or is 7 perm not enough drying potential? Thank you!
I would like to hear something regarding the use of closed and open cell foam insulation in rafters and it affect it has on the deck particularly OSB and the how having HVAC ductwork in the attic space affect the build up of condensation in the space. Also some information on installing metal roofing so you have ventilation from eve to ridge.
@@gary24752 yeah especially if is a cold roof as isn’t a moisture barrier. Open cell aloes the building drying quicker and also works better in terms of acoustics solutions.
@@gary24752trying to figure this out right now as we are building….how do you accomplish a conditioned attic with a standing seam roof that install calls for applying directing to flat service. Any advice
Hello, How do you ventilate in a rain screen application where the siding (vertical steel or lap plank) where the siding meets the soffit as shown in your diagram. Since this is vulnerable to wind driven rain how do you ventilate at the top without allowing rain in? Is it enough to just have an air gap at the bottom and seal the top? This in an area of 160 inches of rain and winds to 100mph two or three times a year and many lesser wind/rain storms. I haven't seen any commercial products that are readily available for this. Thanks. Doug
Is a foil faced insulation board also a vapor barrier? I would like to apply the panels over the subsiding, without tape, then use TYVEK over the insulation board. (R-Max 1" 4'x8' panels) tHanks all
Not with stucco. And if you get a rain leak at the roofline example as a guttter leak or a torn siding piece then imagine how long the plywood would take to dry if exposed to rain
Plywood (vs. OSB) is just one of the many variables affecting the results. A crucial message of the video is that it very much depends on the climate (rain, winds, temperature). (In Nevada, it probably doesn't matter if it's plywood or OSB. In, say, the UK, or the Netherlands, plywood alone will not save you from stuck moisture. Also, the more it rains, the higher the chances for plywood to delaminate, possibly negating its buffering effect. These are just quick speculative examples, tho, to illustrate some issues to consider.)
It’s 2019. Shocking there are only 7 comments so far. This video should have a million plus views.
The ignorance of most homeowners and builders is the cause of most problems addressed here. The newest and latest products in the building and construction industry are not always the best. You have to wonder if most of it is developed with the sole intention to create more work and a marketing campaign to keep selling things that just don’t work. Technology will be the end of us...
Captainkidd 1234 . . . I could not agree more with you . The almost absolute ignorance of homeowners & in particular , builders , here in the UK is just staggering . They appear to have not the slightest , basic understanding of building science or physics . I see the same old , flawed , building techniques being employed time & time again . No matter the size of the project or property value . These building developments exhibit for all to see , people do not have a clue . They continue to perpetuate and repeat the same old short term and life long problems that exist in buildings here in the UK . Joe Lstibureks lectures and seminars should be mandatory for any builder / architect and indeed any home owner .
AGREED
Yup. Every complication raises GDP, which must go up at all costs.
It blows my mind how easy Joe makes it to watch a one hour video
This is the best video I've ever seen on this topic.
He makes sooooo much sense. Fact and physics based wise strategies.
Thank you for explaining the science behind the proper building techniques we've known simply from all the ugly work we've been hired to rip out and replace...
Thank you. Great presentation; Clear and concise.
I love the subtle burns on the american infrastructure that he throws in.
"Don't do stupid things..." Joe Lstiburek
Thank you first of all for this interview. I have a few questions here:, for which the set up will be lengthy, so please bear with me:
I have analyzed and performed a cost analysis from both a cost and U- factor (the over all assembled insulative value of an assembly. This takes into view the conductive and thermal factors of an assembly, be it a wall, window, etc...) view point. My concern is, in the process of building as assembly, is the issue of creating a condensation plane that is hidden. I live and build in SW Georgia and North Florida. From a shear cost analysis basis, both a 2x4 wall, 16" O.C. (doubled with a 2" air grap in between) and a 2x6 wall, 24" O.C. cost the same. (There is a ..09 cents per SF difference) So, I am planning to build a double 2x4 assembly with a 2" air gap in between. With that established, my insulation of choice is blown cellulose, so I will end up woth a 9" wall cavity with no a complete thermal break and an R-31 value. So, the wall assembly will be, painted drywall, as the interior finish, 9" of cellulose and a sheathing material, typically a 7/16" OSB, although I am considering 5/8". This is where my question is targeted, wall sheathing and WRB? OSB, is the most affordable product to use (currently $17 per sheet with CDX being $25 per sheet), but because of the glues used, is not nearly as vapor permeable. So, what is an affective and cost concious choice for shealthing? Secondly, Tyvek, in my mind is at best a C or D product. What WRB is going to give me the vapor barrier I need, while allowing a Vapor Permenance factor that won't cause a moisture plane on the inside of the shealthing material? By the way, I plan to use 3/4" furring on the exterior sheathing to create the drainage plane. I like the Hardie material finishes of the world, but I from a maintenance point of view, vinyl siding wins out? I just finished cleaning my 22 year old home which has vinyl siding and it looks brand new again! By the way, I am a 45 year custom builder and I hate vinyl siding, but used it on my own house for this very reason.
Awesome video, going down the rat hole. He mentions CA as only needing 2 layers of wrap paper, but anywhere above 20" if rain needs air gap. Bay Area has 24 inches of rain, i guess not all CA follows this rule?
Often he says that it's not a problem if the rockwool on the outside of a wall gets wet.. Doesn't it loose the performance?
In his perfect wall is cladding, space, insulation, control, wall etc
Great presentation, you mentioned that for stucco you prefer a WRB of 10-20 perm. The ProClima Adhero WRB is 7 perm. Would this work still work in Florida with plywood and a 1/4 rainscreen? Or is 7 perm not enough drying potential? Thank you!
Why not change building codes where you have to use plywood for exterior walls.
Why not use OSB properly? Why not install/provide the details needed to use OSB? Or use plywood.
Haha! "a sandbar swamp in the middle of the Gulf like the state of Florida" 13:22
I would like to hear something regarding the use of closed and open cell foam insulation in rafters and it affect it has on the deck particularly OSB and the how having HVAC ductwork in the attic space affect the build up of condensation in the space. Also some information on installing metal roofing so you have ventilation from eve to ridge.
spray foam is the best insulation system in the world.
@@adrianwilliams588 Depends on the application. Open cell on osb roof deck is a bad idea.
@@gary24752 yeah especially if is a cold roof as isn’t a moisture barrier.
Open cell aloes the building drying quicker and also works better in terms of acoustics solutions.
@@gary24752trying to figure this out right now as we are building….how do you accomplish a conditioned attic with a standing seam roof that install calls for applying directing to flat service. Any advice
@gary24752 did you ever find info on this? Looking for same myself
Thanks, VERY informative!
Thoughts on painting exterior brick?
Any suggestions for a flat roof with fiberglass exterior.
Hello, How do you ventilate in a rain screen application where the siding (vertical steel or lap plank) where the siding meets the soffit as shown in your diagram. Since this is vulnerable to wind driven rain how do you ventilate at the top without allowing rain in? Is it enough to just have an air gap at the bottom and seal the top? This in an area of 160 inches of rain and winds to 100mph two or three times a year and many lesser wind/rain storms. I haven't seen any commercial products that are readily available for this. Thanks. Doug
Leave that horrible place! Are you a sailor at the some War shipp or a Soul at Submarine.
Oh god you need hurricane bracing on members. The soffit needs continuous vents under the roof to ventilate that building in heavy rainfall.
I came here from making bricks with Styrofoam video channel, go figure. Thank you! I have subscribed.
Is a foil faced insulation board also a vapor barrier? I would like to apply the panels over the subsiding, without tape, then use TYVEK over the insulation board. (R-Max 1" 4'x8' panels) tHanks all
taxing gravity... you talk free energy and they still let you in the country?
so by simply using plywood for sheathing we can omit any need for a drying gap?
Not with stucco. And if you get a rain leak at the roofline example as a guttter leak or a torn siding piece then imagine how long the plywood would take to dry if exposed to rain
Plywood (vs. OSB) is just one of the many variables affecting the results. A crucial message of the video is that it very much depends on the climate (rain, winds, temperature). (In Nevada, it probably doesn't matter if it's plywood or OSB. In, say, the UK, or the Netherlands, plywood alone will not save you from stuck moisture. Also, the more it rains, the higher the chances for plywood to delaminate, possibly negating its buffering effect. These are just quick speculative examples, tho, to illustrate some issues to consider.)
you guys obviously have very soft hands... hehe.