Just adding the highlights that are useful when doing this job (for me at least). Thanks again Jim for this video! Edited after checking etis online for the values: Accessory tensioner 15mm spanner to loosen it Crankshaft position sensor bolt 10mm 10Nm Cambelt cover bolts 10mm 7Nm Engine mount lower bolts 15mm 90Nm Engine mount top bolts 21mm 113Nm Timing alignment bolts 8mm diameter Tensioner center stud (axle) 10Nm Water Pump bolts 11mm 16Nm Cambelt guide pulley bolt 16mm 56Nm The belt needs to have the writing towards the right side of the car when mounting When fitting the belt make sure that the bottom floating pulley is all the way to the left -> no gap to the right side Tension the belt until the arrow aluminum guide is in the middle of the square cutout, then tighten the nut Tensioner nut 13mm 25Nm Bottom crank pulley should be centered -> almost equal gap left and right Crankshaft pulley bolt 22mm 50Nm Turn the engine only clockwise by hand 4 times to check that it turns smoothly Crankshaft pulley bolt 22mm 70Nm then 60 degrees
Thanks sunshine, was struggling with finding the lock pin for the crankshaft ( no bloody wonder!) Your video is the only one showing the special tool and where it it is. It’s also the same engine as the focus 2013-15 In Australia so thanks again! Keep up the good work!!
Hello Jim, Thanks for the excellent video guide. I was wondering if you could tell me how you managed to get a hose on the radiator drain plug and open the plug, as access seems with difficult and limited from underneath? Thanks
I have a hose thats just the right size to fit on, its then a case of pushing my sausage fingers in the gaps available to try and fit it!! I open the taps with bent long nose pliers usually, hope that helps 👍
Hi Jim, i take it you didnt take the starter motor off and lock the fly wheel using the locking kit in order to tighten the crank bolt..? Can the crankshaft locking pin and Engine Casting take the 50/70Nm tightening torque? Then remove the pin and Impact gun it the extra 60° ? Many thanks, good video 👍
Thanks for the video. Looks reasonably simple with your explanation, although I must admit I'd be a bit apprehensive to tackle this job myself having not done it before
I get that, if you never try youll never get to know how though! alsong as you triple checked everything youd be fine, its when people try to cut corners , rush , or dont triple check things they go wrong. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hi mate the video is brilliant, one question?? I’ve done all of of what’s in video but now my car won’t start, does the timing ring in bottom pulley need to be setup at all?? Has it got to be in a certain position?? I locked timing places as the guy who originally done it didn’t so the timing was out by a tooth or 2 and everyone now saying it’s got to be down to the timing ring that goes on before bottom pulley?? Thanks for any advice I’m really struggling with this now
Hi there, nah the ring can only go on one way, it wont start if youve damaged the ring taking it off though, if your 100% sure timings ok first things I would check are the fuel systems been bled- wont start with air in system, unplug the sensors again and replug them in to make sure theyve clicked in properly and the crank sensor is positioned correctly - if it isnt and the gaps too far away from the ring it wont start
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hi there thanks for reply mate, really appreciate it, I’ve bled the fuel system and even tried easy start straight into turbo and just hicks and farts and doesn’t start, so I eliminated fuel problem. I will check the crank sensor to make sure it’s sitting correctly and the ring wheel has got a very small scuff on the bit that the sensor reads. Might just see if I can buy a new one to eliminate that as that’s all I seen to be doing at present is trying to elimate things one step at a time, the original job by a mechanic was to do belt kit and change battery around 15 weeks ago the car hasn’t started since :( he put his hands up said it’s got me beat and walked away and left me with the problem, I’m no mechanic I just watch videos like the one posted and read things. Thanks mate
Damn dude, sorry to hear that but based on what youve just told me- it happened that long ago and hasnt ran since he done it and it was out of time by a few teeth he may have bent some valves doing the timing wrong.... if your 100% the timing is now in correct position id recommend getting a compression test done on it before you start buying anything else for it... they never need easy start to start btw....
Alright mate, where can i get the timing tool? I’ve checked ebay can’t find it, I’m happy to tipex the crank but I’d rather not if I can avoid it, cheers.
doyou put the sensor back on after the bottom cover and magnetic disk or before i carnt seem to get the bottom cover on if i try do it before .also is it normal to have a little in ?out play on the bottom sprocket i know the keyway goes side to side but mine also push in and out a couple of ml???
Can you make a video of replacing the clutch of dct450 mps6? I know that the oil seal and clutch of this gearbox are defective and need to be replaced with improved oil seal and clutch.
Great video, gives me the confidence to do it myself. Any issues removing the crank pulley bolt? what is the best way to 'lock' the engine if a greater force is required to remove it? Any tips for the coolant replacement? Are there any bleeding points?
A friend doing this job on a Peugeot 308 (same engine) used the starter motor to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. He had a socket on the bolt with a breaker bar wedged against something solid, and cranked the engine over.
I would always say yes its a must, only because if its belt driven its dobe the same milage as the cambelt itsself and if it leaks after your cambelt replacement not only will you be very annoyed but youd have to do the whole job again so may aswell do it while there 👍
If we are changing high pressure fuel pump gasket , do really we need time anything or just change gasket. Or we only need to time pump when we open pump itself.
Hi Jim. I have replaced the timing belt like you explained in the video of my ford s-max 2006 2.0 tdci same engine, using the locking tools but my car won't start now. The error code is for a crankshaft sensor. I have checked my work several times and every time the locking pins are lined perfectly but it still won't start at all. I got new sensor still not starting and still the same code for no signal or incorrect timing etc. Any ideas where I might have made a mistake. When I timed the engine and installed the new belt and tensioned it properly the pin on the crankshaft was in the middle but after I rotated it to check if it is spinning freely then it stays on the left end of the floating pulley. Am I supposed to rotate it only with the crankshaft pulley on so that the pin stays in the middle of the floating pulley. Any help would be much appreciated.
Have you damaged the pick up ring at all behind the pulley? And make sure the sensor is correctly positioned or it wont pick it up, double check you havent damaged the wiring either pulling it out 👍
Thanks for the reply. I have checked the wiring and also replaced the crankshaft sensor and pick up sensor behind the pulley. Still no success. Any idea about that I rotated the engine and the floating pulley not being in the middle of the pin I mean not secured in the middle by the big pulley? Cheers.
Watch the video around 7:30, but basically you turn the crank around until the CAMSHAFT timing hole is inline then get the long bent CRANKSHAFT locking bar and push it through the hole located on the engine block behind the starter motor, if it pushes in and you cannot turn the crank forward or backward the flywheel is locked correctly and you can then put the locking pin in the CAMSHAFT and your engine is timed correctly. Hope that helps 👍
Hi Jim great vid i am having ago at undertaking this on my 2012 ford mondeo i have had a look at the procedure in the Haynes manual and it says the crank shaft pulley should be stage 1 torqued to 70nm and stage 2 60 degrees but you only did the bolt up to 50nm is this critical or am i worrying for no reason
Hi Jim its the 2.0 diesel Peugeot engine, i have watched the how to on another upload and at the end of the vid he has given the specs which is the same as the Haynes manual, im sure the engine are the same as this kuga? im only asking to see if its crucial that it is tighten to a specific torque i was going to nip the crank bolt up remove the two timing pins then tighten fully with my cordless dewalt dfc899 impact gun after doing this turn the engine by hand and reinstall the two pins just to make sure its still timed right. This would be the first time doing a replacement belt and water pump so just getting as much info i can :-)
Awesome video! Thanks! I do have a question though...this type of engine comes with a timing chain for the camshafts and I am planning on changing it mainly because the hydraulic pulley and the chain guide are made of plastic and I think I hear a slight rattle. I changed my belt in the service at 250.000 kms and they didn't change the chain at that time. Now I am at ~320.000 kms and would like to take care of this chain. Do you have any link to a documentation or another step-by-step instruction on how to change it? Thanks again for the detailed video!
Hello, I have two question concerning your movie: 1) is it needed to disassemble the engine mount? 2) the botton pulley has to be torqued only to 15Nm? Thank you - M.
Hello Jim, could you please let me know what is the diameter of fixation pin which fix the cam and diameter of pin which goes into balance wheel + please let me know how long shall be this pin before 90 degrees bend. Thank you - M.
Sorry I dont really understand what your asking, the thickness of the camshaft pin is 8mm I believe, im not sure about the crankshaft pin thickness, you can buy the correct timing tools cheaply from ebay or somewhere similar if your worried about having the wrong pins
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hello Jim, thank you. You answer my question from 50%. Basicaly I have the 8 mm pin. And I need to know about the diameter of the hook + what is the length of part of this hook which is inserted into balance wheel. Thank you - M.
Ah ok, the flywheel locking pin it approx 2- 2.5inches long at the bent part that goes into the flywheel and im not sure about the diameter, I can find out tomorrow and get back to you if you would prefer a definate answer
Interference unfortunately, however there has been some lucky cases where no damage has occured but thats usually if its a few teeth that gone not a full snap. You could try either compression test the engine or put a belt on just incase you were one of the lucky ones
Honestly i dont think it really makes a difference aslong as you get a decent aftermarket one not something off ebay flown in from hong kong for a fiver you should be fine , 👍
I think that was one of the best tutorials that I've ever seen. Very clear and, actually much better and clearer with the stills. Thanks
Just adding the highlights that are useful when doing this job (for me at least). Thanks again Jim for this video!
Edited after checking etis online for the values:
Accessory tensioner 15mm spanner to loosen it
Crankshaft position sensor bolt 10mm
10Nm
Cambelt cover bolts 10mm 7Nm
Engine mount lower bolts 15mm 90Nm
Engine mount top bolts 21mm 113Nm
Timing alignment bolts 8mm diameter
Tensioner center stud (axle) 10Nm
Water Pump bolts 11mm 16Nm
Cambelt guide pulley bolt 16mm 56Nm
The belt needs to have the writing towards the right side of the car when mounting
When fitting the belt make sure that the bottom floating pulley is all the way to the left -> no gap to the right side
Tension the belt until the arrow aluminum guide is in the middle of the square cutout, then tighten the nut
Tensioner nut 13mm 25Nm
Bottom crank pulley should be centered -> almost equal gap left and right
Crankshaft pulley bolt 22mm 50Nm
Turn the engine only clockwise by hand 4 times to check that it turns smoothly
Crankshaft pulley bolt 22mm 70Nm then 60 degrees
What do you mean 70nm for tbe crankshaft bolt then 60 degrees? What’s the 60 degrees?
WoW! What an amazing informative video. That is by far the best information video I have ever watched. Thank you for your efforts.
Thanks sunshine, was struggling with finding the lock pin for the crankshaft ( no bloody wonder!)
Your video is the only one showing the special tool and where it it is. It’s also the same engine as the focus 2013-15 In Australia so thanks again!
Keep up the good work!!
Thankyou so much! the ford instructions make no sense. Your video was a lifesaver!
Thanks for the video 👍 where can I get the flywheel lock pin? Thanks
Hello Jim,
Thanks for the excellent video guide. I was wondering if you could tell me how you managed to get a hose on the radiator drain plug and open the plug, as access seems with difficult and limited from underneath?
Thanks
I have a hose thats just the right size to fit on, its then a case of pushing my sausage fingers in the gaps available to try and fit it!! I open the taps with bent long nose pliers usually, hope that helps 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Nice one, thanks for the tip!
Thank you for an excellent concise video, And thank you for turning the music down.
Hi Jim, i take it you didnt take the starter motor off and lock the fly wheel using the locking kit in order to tighten the crank bolt..? Can the crankshaft locking pin and Engine Casting take the 50/70Nm tightening torque? Then remove the pin and Impact gun it the extra 60° ?
Many thanks, good video 👍
If you tighten the crank bolt leaving the locking pin into the flywheel and it bends slightly you may not be able to remove it.
Do water pump gaskets need to be coated with any rubber grease or coolant?
Perfect Video followed it took my time all good 👍
Thanks for the video. Looks reasonably simple with your explanation, although I must admit I'd be a bit apprehensive to tackle this job myself having not done it before
I get that, if you never try youll never get to know how though! alsong as you triple checked everything youd be fine, its when people try to cut corners , rush , or dont triple check things they go wrong. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hi mate the video is brilliant, one question?? I’ve done all of of what’s in video but now my car won’t start, does the timing ring in bottom pulley need to be setup at all?? Has it got to be in a certain position?? I locked timing places as the guy who originally done it didn’t so the timing was out by a tooth or 2 and everyone now saying it’s got to be down to the timing ring that goes on before bottom pulley?? Thanks for any advice I’m really struggling with this now
Hi there, nah the ring can only go on one way, it wont start if youve damaged the ring taking it off though, if your 100% sure timings ok first things I would check are the fuel systems been bled- wont start with air in system, unplug the sensors again and replug them in to make sure theyve clicked in properly and the crank sensor is positioned correctly - if it isnt and the gaps too far away from the ring it wont start
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hi there thanks for reply mate, really appreciate it, I’ve bled the fuel system and even tried easy start straight into turbo and just hicks and farts and doesn’t start, so I eliminated fuel problem. I will check the crank sensor to make sure it’s sitting correctly and the ring wheel has got a very small scuff on the bit that the sensor reads. Might just see if I can buy a new one to eliminate that as that’s all I seen to be doing at present is trying to elimate things one step at a time, the original job by a mechanic was to do belt kit and change battery around 15 weeks ago the car hasn’t started since :( he put his hands up said it’s got me beat and walked away and left me with the problem, I’m no mechanic I just watch videos like the one posted and read things. Thanks mate
Damn dude, sorry to hear that but based on what youve just told me- it happened that long ago and hasnt ran since he done it and it was out of time by a few teeth he may have bent some valves doing the timing wrong.... if your 100% the timing is now in correct position id recommend getting a compression test done on it before you start buying anything else for it... they never need easy start to start btw....
Great video Jim, I will post this on our Kuga club forum if someone ask how to replace belt and water pump...………………...Thank you.
Excellent vid i did my one with a bolt an all thread as locking tools
can you get the flywheel pin in without moving/taking out the starter motor?
very good video ! !thanks !! is it possible to pick flywheel with automatic gearbox ?
Hi Jim, good video, can I ask, where did you get the long flywheel locking pin from?
Alright mate, where can i get the timing tool? I’ve checked ebay can’t find it, I’m happy to tipex the crank but I’d rather not if I can avoid it, cheers.
doyou put the sensor back on after the bottom cover and magnetic disk or before i carnt seem to get the bottom cover on if i try do it before .also is it normal to have a little in ?out play on the bottom sprocket i know the keyway goes side to side but mine also push in and out a couple of ml???
Bravo 👏👏, good job 🇩🇿🇩🇿👋
Can you make a video of replacing the clutch of dct450 mps6? I know that the oil seal and clutch of this gearbox are defective and need to be replaced with improved oil seal and clutch.
Ill try to if I get one in anytime soon 👍
11.33 most important,thank you👍
Do all old bolts need to be replaced with new ones?
Great video, gives me the confidence to do it myself.
Any issues removing the crank pulley bolt? what is the best way to 'lock' the engine if a greater force is required to remove it?
Any tips for the coolant replacement? Are there any bleeding points?
A friend doing this job on a Peugeot 308 (same engine) used the starter motor to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
He had a socket on the bolt with a breaker bar wedged against something solid, and cranked the engine over.
@@alanjm1234that sounds like a horrendous idea!
Cambelt / vízszivattyú egy Ford Kuga 2.0 dízelen - hogyan kell cserélni
Were would be best to take my 2011 and what price will i be looking at thankyou
Its really great explanation..
I have question, do we need to change water pump while changing timing belt? Is it must ?
I would always say yes its a must, only because if its belt driven its dobe the same milage as the cambelt itsself and if it leaks after your cambelt replacement not only will you be very annoyed but youd have to do the whole job again so may aswell do it while there 👍
Thanks
If we are changing high pressure fuel pump gasket , do really we need time anything or just change gasket.
Or we only need to time pump when we open pump itself.
Do you have the product number for the new bolt?
Hi. How many mileages on this car while changing it? The timing belt is this the original one from 0miles?
Lovely video
Hi Jim. I have replaced the timing belt like you explained in the video of my ford s-max 2006 2.0 tdci same engine, using the locking tools but my car won't start now. The error code is for a crankshaft sensor. I have checked my work several times and every time the locking pins are lined perfectly but it still won't start at all. I got new sensor still not starting and still the same code for no signal or incorrect timing etc. Any ideas where I might have made a mistake. When I timed the engine and installed the new belt and tensioned it properly the pin on the crankshaft was in the middle but after I rotated it to check if it is spinning freely then it stays on the left end of the floating pulley. Am I supposed to rotate it only with the crankshaft pulley on so that the pin stays in the middle of the floating pulley. Any help would be much appreciated.
Have you damaged the pick up ring at all behind the pulley? And make sure the sensor is correctly positioned or it wont pick it up, double check you havent damaged the wiring either pulling it out 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM what year car was this please
Thanks for the reply. I have checked the wiring and also replaced the crankshaft sensor and pick up sensor behind the pulley. Still no success. Any idea about that I rotated the engine and the floating pulley not being in the middle of the pin I mean not secured in the middle by the big pulley? Cheers.
Hi. Have you got a video on a ford fiesta 2017 1.5 cambelt fitting and what timing pins required.
Im not sure to be honest youll have to look through my videos to see, if there isnt ill bare it in mind and make one when the job arrives 👍
Hi,is this like a volvo v50 2.0 psa engine?thanks
Hi Jim. I don't get to understand how to block the crankshaft to align it with the camshaft
Watch the video around 7:30, but basically you turn the crank around until the CAMSHAFT timing hole is inline then get the long bent CRANKSHAFT locking bar and push it through the hole located on the engine block behind the starter motor, if it pushes in and you cannot turn the crank forward or backward the flywheel is locked correctly and you can then put the locking pin in the CAMSHAFT and your engine is timed correctly. Hope that helps 👍
Hi Jim great vid i am having ago at undertaking this on my 2012 ford mondeo i have had a look at the procedure in the Haynes manual and it says the crank shaft pulley should be stage 1 torqued to 70nm and stage 2 60 degrees but you only did the bolt up to 50nm is this critical or am i worrying for no reason
Well this is off the official ford etis for this particular engine, what engine have you got in your mondeo?
Hi Jim its the 2.0 diesel Peugeot engine, i have watched the how to on another upload and at the end of the vid he has given the specs which is the same as the Haynes manual, im sure the engine are the same as this kuga? im only asking to see if its crucial that it is tighten to a specific torque i was going to nip the crank bolt up remove the two timing pins then tighten fully with my cordless dewalt dfc899 impact gun after doing this turn the engine by hand and reinstall the two pins just to make sure its still timed right. This would be the first time doing a replacement belt and water pump so just getting as much info i can :-)
Awesome video! Thanks!
I do have a question though...this type of engine comes with a timing chain for the camshafts and I am planning on changing it mainly because the hydraulic pulley and the chain guide are made of plastic and I think I hear a slight rattle. I changed my belt in the service at 250.000 kms and they didn't change the chain at that time.
Now I am at ~320.000 kms and would like to take care of this chain. Do you have any link to a documentation or another step-by-step instruction on how to change it?
Thanks again for the detailed video!
Thanks! And unfortunetly at this time I dont sorry
thanks very good video
Hello, I have two question concerning your movie: 1) is it needed to disassemble the engine mount? 2) the botton pulley has to be torqued only to 15Nm? Thank you - M.
Hi there,
1- yes remove engine mount or its just in the way and will make the job harder to do
2- I said 50Nm!!! Not 15 !!! Aha
Could not hear what was being said because of the music,
Jim, what diameter are the crank and cam pins? I was planning using 2 drill bits at the correct diameter.
thank you!
Ist this the sams procedure at a mondeo with an DW10C engine with 2.0 140ps or 103kw?
Yes aslong as its this engine its the same 👍
Excellent tutorial, thanks a lot! Just the music is too loud, you might want to decrease the volume a little maybe.
Hello Jim, could you please let me know what is the diameter of fixation pin which fix the cam and diameter of pin which goes into balance wheel + please let me know how long shall be this pin before 90 degrees bend. Thank you - M.
Sorry I dont really understand what your asking, the thickness of the camshaft pin is 8mm I believe, im not sure about the crankshaft pin thickness, you can buy the correct timing tools cheaply from ebay or somewhere similar if your worried about having the wrong pins
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Hello Jim, thank you. You answer my question from 50%. Basicaly I have the 8 mm pin. And I need to know about the diameter of the hook + what is the length of part of this hook which is inserted into balance wheel. Thank you - M.
Ah ok, the flywheel locking pin it approx 2- 2.5inches long at the bent part that goes into the flywheel and im not sure about the diameter, I can find out tomorrow and get back to you if you would prefer a definate answer
Q? If the timing belt snaps can this engine be saved by replacing a new timing belt kit? Is this engine non interference or interference??
Interference unfortunately, however there has been some lucky cases where no damage has occured but thats usually if its a few teeth that gone not a full snap. You could try either compression test the engine or put a belt on just incase you were one of the lucky ones
@@ALLTHINGSJIM many thanks for your advice should I use original or aftermarket belt and tensioner?
Honestly i dont think it really makes a difference aslong as you get a decent aftermarket one not something off ebay flown in from hong kong for a fiver you should be fine , 👍
Hi Jim, do you put any sealant on the water pump gasket or put it on dry and torque up? Thanks.
Hi there, no sealent required just put it in dry and torque 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thanks Jim. Top man. Great video and brilliant tutorial.
@@ALLTHINGSJIMThank you!!
Ithhink it would be same for ford mondeo 2.0 2012.. right?
yess
@@ckmckc thanks 😊
Another great video ruined by loud musical?? sounds, no need for it let us hear the guy talking without this distracting crapp.
Early video, later ones I do more talking less music 👍
Sound quality is appalling mate! don't bother