I had to watch two videos before I subscribed, In Australia it’s illegal to diy shore power to your vehicle, You have to have it installed and certified by a Qualified Electrician, But it’s not illegal to run house power off your Inverter, then have a smart battery charger in your system to charge system off shore power, Yeah we’re backwards going forwards down here lol 😂, but I subbed any way, cheers.
Longer life, lighter weight, and more available power (3:50) are some great advantages of Lithium batteries. I've compiled a list of all the advantages of lithium over lead batteries that I could think of--and the list is surprisingly long! Here's my summary of all 16 of the advantages I have accumulated of lithium (LiFePO4, a.k.a., LFP) such as Battleborn batteries over traditional lead batteries (AGM, SLA, Gel). It's interesting that your three reasons are also my first three advantages in my list: 1-Available Power: Available amp hrs are 100% of stated amp hrs for LFP vs 50% AGM. 2-Lighter: Weight is one-quarter the weight for the same usable amp-hours of capacity (1/2 the weight for twice the available capacity). 3-Longer-lasting: Rated cycles 3000 lithium vs 500 AGM. 4-Costs Less: LFP costs less than a third compared to AGM per available amp-hour over rated life. AGM100: $250 / 50ah / 500c = $0.01 per ahc (amp-hour-cycle) LFP100: $1000 / 100ah / 3000 = $0.003 per ahc (getting LFP for less than half this cost is easy these days) 5-Less Hassle: Since LFP lasts 6 times as long as AGM, you swap out batteries less often, saving installation costs, scheduling, and hassle. 6-Smaller: LFP has 2x the power in the same space as AGM. 7-Fast Charging: LFP has a high constant rate of recharging (0.5C-1.0C) that is 99% efficient vs. inefficient (as low as 60%) and slow three-stage charging for AGM. This is like having an extra solar panel or running your generator for an hour less. 8-Robust: No need to fully charge to prevent sulfation. 9-Powerful: High Discharge Rate capable (1C or greater for lithium) 10-Peukert Effect: Available amp-hours not depleted by high discharge rate (lead batteries can lose 40% of available capacity discharging at a high rate, like running A/C, hairdryer, MW, toaster, induction stove, etc.) 11-No Conditioning: No need to do "conditioning" to remove the inevitable sulfation of lead batteries. 12-Stores Well: Storage temp range (-20F - 150F) don't need to remove from RV in winter, but should disconnect them. It's hard to "ruin" LFP batteries. You can ruin lead batteries by too deeply discharging them. You can ruin them by not fully recharging them. You can ruin them by letting the water get to low. You can ruin them by letting them get low on charge in freezing temperatures. BB LFP batteries, with their BMS, prevent all of this. 13-Worry Free: Zero maintenance (but so are AGM and Gel). No need to check and add water like regular lead-acid batteries. Also, no dangerous and corrosive off-gassing which is possible with any lead battery, meaning you can install LFP batteries inside the living area. And there's no thermal runaway (battery fires!) with LFP, which can be an issue with Li-ion batteries found in phones and electric vehicles. 14-Higher Voltage: LFP starts at a high voltage and has a flatter power delivery (voltage to SOC) curve so you get enough volts to run large loads like your inverter even from mostly-discharged batteries. 15-No Floating: Near zero self-discharge. Disconnecting LFP batteries and storing them over the winter, without a float charge, is fine. 16-Minimal voltage sag under load. Under large loads, the battery voltage drops noticeably from the "rest" voltage when the load is applied. Because LFP batteries have lower internal resistance under large loads compared to AGMs, the voltage sag is less, meaning some devices may operate longer when powered by LFP.
Agree, they are expensive. I liked that they are a solid U.S. brand and get good customer service reviews. Of course, like most other components in the build, decisions often come down to cost and balancing quality. Anyone else have an opinion on these higher priced components? What about Victron? Also quite expensive.
@@lakorai2 None of the cheaper and better options were available back when I spent $4000 on 400Ah of Battle Born batteries 4 1/2 years ago. On my next project, whenever that is, I certainly won't be paying the Battle Born premium. In fact, I'd probably build my own from 300Ah cells and a BMS or two. Probably even make my batteries and inverter (and maybe a 24V DC air conditioner) into a 24V configuration and use a converter to step down to 12V for the rest of the house systems that need it. In the same space where I could only fit 4 Battle Born GC2 batteries for 5120Wh of energy storage, I could fit about 15,000Wh of 300Ah cells (16 of them)--and I could buy the components for under $2000.
I certainly agree. Class T fuses are perfect at the battery and should be used if possible. I had a hard time finding them at the time. ANL fuses are the next best option and were available. Do you think it would be worth switching them out if I can source some Class T fuses now? I'll have to look to see if I can find them. Thank you for your advice!
Adding another alternator would be a better option than voiding warranty and burning out OEM. You could then go 24 or 48 volts with less chance of shorting high amp wires. It's not like the dealer would notice. They charge for parts my engine doesn't have.🙄 I also don't think paying $5k for an RV package 12 volt system is a good option. You can use that money on Victron and Battle Born. Just saying...
I didn't see 110/120 outlets on the list. Did I miss something? I only have a Promaster136 and use two Maxxair vent fans for best re-circulation and venting.
The AC outlets didn't make the list but the devices that can be plugged into them did. I have the TV, Refrigerator and Victron battery charger plugged into them. The TV and Refrigerator automatically switch over to AC when I connect to shore power. I have a couple of other AC outlets that are run by an inverter. We use those for things like a computer monitor, laptop charging and low wattage appliances. In my previous van I also had two vent fans and loved the air flow you can get with one running air in and the other out. Adding a second fan may be a worthwhile future upgrade.
Best Demonstration of how to wire up a system I've seen. Thanks
Thank you, glad it helped!
I had to watch two videos before I subscribed, In Australia it’s illegal to diy shore power to your vehicle, You have to have it installed and certified by a Qualified Electrician, But it’s not illegal to run house power off your Inverter, then have a smart battery charger in your system to charge system off shore power, Yeah we’re backwards going forwards down here lol 😂, but I subbed any way, cheers.
Hey, thanks for watching two AND thanks for subscribing!
I like your little terminal booties you made-- out bike tire tubing I think.
Thanks. You guessed it, bike inner tube! I also used pieces of tubing wrapped around wires in places they could rub against sharp metal.
Longer life, lighter weight, and more available power (3:50) are some great advantages of Lithium batteries. I've compiled a list of all the advantages of lithium over lead batteries that I could think of--and the list is surprisingly long!
Here's my summary of all 16 of the advantages I have accumulated of lithium (LiFePO4, a.k.a., LFP) such as Battleborn batteries over traditional lead batteries (AGM, SLA, Gel). It's interesting that your three reasons are also my first three advantages in my list:
1-Available Power: Available amp hrs are 100% of stated amp hrs for LFP vs 50% AGM.
2-Lighter: Weight is one-quarter the weight for the same usable amp-hours of capacity (1/2 the weight for twice the available capacity).
3-Longer-lasting: Rated cycles 3000 lithium vs 500 AGM.
4-Costs Less: LFP costs less than a third compared to AGM per available amp-hour over rated life.
AGM100: $250 / 50ah / 500c = $0.01 per ahc (amp-hour-cycle)
LFP100: $1000 / 100ah / 3000 = $0.003 per ahc (getting LFP for less than half this cost is easy these days)
5-Less Hassle: Since LFP lasts 6 times as long as AGM, you swap out batteries less often, saving installation costs, scheduling, and hassle.
6-Smaller: LFP has 2x the power in the same space as AGM.
7-Fast Charging: LFP has a high constant rate of recharging (0.5C-1.0C) that is 99% efficient vs. inefficient (as low as 60%) and slow three-stage charging for AGM. This is like having an extra solar panel or running your generator for an hour less.
8-Robust: No need to fully charge to prevent sulfation.
9-Powerful: High Discharge Rate capable (1C or greater for lithium)
10-Peukert Effect: Available amp-hours not depleted by high discharge rate (lead batteries can lose 40% of available capacity discharging at a high rate, like running A/C, hairdryer, MW, toaster, induction stove, etc.)
11-No Conditioning: No need to do "conditioning" to remove the inevitable sulfation of lead batteries.
12-Stores Well: Storage temp range (-20F - 150F) don't need to remove from RV in winter, but should disconnect them. It's hard to "ruin" LFP batteries. You can ruin lead batteries by too deeply discharging them. You can ruin them by not fully recharging them. You can ruin them by letting the water get to low. You can ruin them by letting them get low on charge in freezing temperatures. BB LFP batteries, with their BMS, prevent all of this.
13-Worry Free: Zero maintenance (but so are AGM and Gel). No need to check and add water like regular lead-acid batteries. Also, no dangerous and corrosive off-gassing which is possible with any lead battery, meaning you can install LFP batteries inside the living area. And there's no thermal runaway (battery fires!) with LFP, which can be an issue with Li-ion batteries found in phones and electric vehicles.
14-Higher Voltage: LFP starts at a high voltage and has a flatter power delivery (voltage to SOC) curve so you get enough volts to run large loads like your inverter even from mostly-discharged batteries.
15-No Floating: Near zero self-discharge. Disconnecting LFP batteries and storing them over the winter, without a float charge, is fine.
16-Minimal voltage sag under load. Under large loads, the battery voltage drops noticeably from the "rest" voltage when the load is applied. Because LFP batteries have lower internal resistance under large loads compared to AGMs, the voltage sag is less, meaning some devices may operate longer when powered by LFP.
Thanks @daveduncan2748 for sharing that information. I’m certainly happy with Lithium, and now even more.
Battleborn is way overpriced. Redodo, LiTime, Dr Prepare etc is just as good for far less money.
Agree, they are expensive. I liked that they are a solid U.S. brand and get good customer service reviews. Of course, like most other components in the build, decisions often come down to cost and balancing quality. Anyone else have an opinion on these higher priced components? What about Victron? Also quite expensive.
@@lakorai2 None of the cheaper and better options were available back when I spent $4000 on 400Ah of Battle Born batteries 4 1/2 years ago. On my next project, whenever that is, I certainly won't be paying the Battle Born premium. In fact, I'd probably build my own from 300Ah cells and a BMS or two. Probably even make my batteries and inverter (and maybe a 24V DC air conditioner) into a 24V configuration and use a converter to step down to 12V for the rest of the house systems that need it. In the same space where I could only fit 4 Battle Born GC2 batteries for 5120Wh of energy storage, I could fit about 15,000Wh of 300Ah cells (16 of them)--and I could buy the components for under $2000.
Now that's taking DIY to the next level! With that kind of know how, you would really be getting the most for your money.
ANL is fine, but you really should be using a Class T fuse for the battery bank
I certainly agree. Class T fuses are perfect at the battery and should be used if possible. I had a hard time finding them at the time. ANL fuses are the next best option and were available. Do you think it would be worth switching them out if I can source some Class T fuses now? I'll have to look to see if I can find them. Thank you for your advice!
Adding another alternator would be a better option than voiding warranty and burning out OEM. You could then go 24 or 48 volts with less chance of shorting high amp wires. It's not like the dealer would notice. They charge for parts my engine doesn't have.🙄 I also don't think paying $5k for an RV package 12 volt system is a good option. You can use that money on Victron and Battle Born. Just saying...
I didn't see 110/120 outlets on the list. Did I miss something? I only have a Promaster136 and use two Maxxair vent fans for best re-circulation and venting.
The AC outlets didn't make the list but the devices that can be plugged into them did. I have the TV, Refrigerator and Victron battery charger plugged into them. The TV and Refrigerator automatically switch over to AC when I connect to shore power. I have a couple of other AC outlets that are run by an inverter. We use those for things like a computer monitor, laptop charging and low wattage appliances.
In my previous van I also had two vent fans and loved the air flow you can get with one running air in and the other out. Adding a second fan may be a worthwhile future upgrade.