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Thank you for your thoughts on this. I’m wondering how a simple system like mine is any different than an extension cord with two or three outlets on the end? Verses a more robust system that would require more circuit protection? I am cautious to keep the amperage low on whatever I plug in and not overload the shore circuit that I am plugged into. Where do you draw the line?

@TheVanTeacher Depends on your energy needs. In my case, 103 degree temps require a 12k btu ac, which is 650 watts, so that's 3 batteries and hopefully no inverter and a 24 or 48 amp system. With that kind of investment you need good circuit protection to avoid fire damage. Hopefully you live in a cooler climate at night and don't need that. Always test your shore power before plugging in. Be safe 🙏

@@TheVanTeacher The issue goes deeper. If your system is - electrically - not really different from a power strip, how do you protect yourself from low voltage, high voltage, etc. at the source? And a breaker inside the van does seem wise. 'Simple' in design doesn't always guarantee simple in practice.

@@TheVanTeacherI absolutely would not trust the circuit protection provided by a random campground. You really do need a 15A double pole breaker as close as possible to the shore power inlet. Blue Sea makes a simple surface mounted enclosure (part 3131) that’s perfect for this and can optionally be wired with a reverse polarity indicator LED (part 8066). Blue Sea 7235 is the 2-pole 15A breaker. I hope you take this advice seriously, it’s literally a life and death thing. Think about what happens if you’re taking a nap, that space heater shorts out, and the campground circuit breaker fails (or is more than 15A). World of hurt. Less than $100 for prevention. You don't need a whole AC distribution panel, just this simple setup to protect your wiring and your life.

Thank you for the advice. I checked out the Blue Sea surface mount breaker and will be installing it right at the shore power inlet on the inside of the van. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!

Hey, thanks for watching two AND thanks for subscribing!

I think you’ll be fine with 12AWG for all of your circuits. You would probably be fine with 14-16 also. The only drawbacks I can think of when using oversized wire is the extra cost, weight and ease of installation. Cost and weight may be negligible. When I think of installation I think about running multiple fat wires through small openings and channels and trying to terminate large wire into small device terminals. If you end up squeezing several wires tightly together through a channel they could potentially heat up. Smaller gauge may reduce that issue. I also think about using lever nuts that may not have the range to accept both 12AWG from your fuse panel and very small wire (18-22) connected to devices like 1 watt LED puck lights. That said, I might go with 14-16AWG for a one size fits all approach. And like you said, not including higher amp devices.

@@TheVanTeacher You give a lot of good advice and I like your desire for simplicity, but electrical work is all about the details. For the sake of others, here are a few ... Wago connectors work fine for 24-10 AWG stranded wire, in fact they are good for connecting wires of different sizes. (I prefer terminal blocks and ring terminals in a boat or vehicle, especially since they keep your wiring more organized.) Wago makes some holders that can help secure their connectors to a surface or within a junction box. Bundling is fine (cars are full of tightly bundled wires), just use the derating rules for DC circuits. 4/0 wire is not necessarily required for batteries, it depends on the load. If you're using just one gauge of wire for all DC circuits, it should be the size that supports your largest DC branch load ... not a random choice among 12, 14, and 16. Gotta do the math. Just some food for thought.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Hope you enjoy!

Good question as it seems Lithium batteries would be a good option given their benefits in so many areas. As for a stater battery replacement I don’t think it would work for a few reasons. Lithium batteries might shut down when the on board battery management system detects the very high current when starting your vehicle. They also don’t take a charge when the temp drops below freezing and stop providing power all together when it’s much colder. I’d maybe look into a solar trickle charger that you could leave on the dashboard and keep plugged into a 12v socket.

They sell small dashboard mounted solar panels that connect to the auto battery for the sake of trickle charging them. It's a passive way to keep the battery from dying when not used often.

The Cabinet 80/20 video is almost ready! Stay tuned, I will try to release it by this weekend.

$55K for the van and $20K for the conversion....All in $75,000

Good question! We actually tested the wall fabrics by letting Mac lay on samples. Her fur does not stick to the fabric. It’s Marathon Tweed fabric and is very durable and easy to keep clean. However it did stick to the old seat cushions, but not the new ones. Her fur really sticks to the front floor mats though. I bought a small leaf blower and use it to quickly blow out all of her fur!

Glad it was helpful!

Having a propane tank is a little tricky. I use a 5 gallon tank inside a propane locker that vents to the outside. The locker is inside the kitchen galley under the sink. I also installed a propane gas detector next to the tank. We open the tank only when in use. It is nice to cook with gas. Thank you! Good luck with your project.

Thank you! Good luck with your project! I’m curious how long it takes to build out a school bus conversion? That’s a lot of space!

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.

Nice surly 🚲

It’s the 159” wheelbase. Thanks for watching!

They do make great bikes! We love the Bridge Club

Thank you for the idea! A measurement video would be quite useful. I can’t tell you how many times I needed specific measurements while planning my layout. Things like the exact spacing between the roof rack mounts, slider door opening, wheel well dimensions, and how far the seats slide back so I could determine the length of my dinette seating area. I could do a complete exterior walk around with a tape measure and film each measurement and then move from the interior cab area to the back doors. I could use an empty cargo van to get the before measurements and then my finished van to help viewers get a feel for what the built out spaces are like. I’m currently working on my next video on layout and design (hopefully will drop next week) so I’ll mention this measurement video that I’ll be working on soon. Great idea! Enjoy your build project!

If it's not too much to ask, would you also be able to also give measurements for all the cavities in the van? Rear Doors, Slider Doors, and Wall Panels top and bottom. I plan to utilize these to hold blankets, shoes, bedding, etc. The depth of these is also useful to make sure I have enough room. The insulation I'm using is very condensed. I'm an 'out of the box' designer! If it's too much to ask, I understand. Thank you soooo much!!@@TheVanTeacher

Thank you, glad it helped!

You’re welcome, glad it was helpful!

Thank you, so glad I can help. Building a van is such a rewarding experience. There’s so much that goes into it. Best of luck with your build and enjoy the process!

Sweet! I can't wait. I'm trying to design a 3 section couch/bed to reside next to the step up to the cab. The middle couch has always caused me frustration with the width.. hence the width between the metal seat base. This middle section will be removable to allow for walking through from cab to cargo. If you would also measure the bump out width and height would be so helpful as well as the edge of the slider door step up. I will also need the width of the wheel wells to incorporate the M8 Tie Down bolts locations. Also the space behind the wheel wells. I am also utilizing the lower floor/wall triangle openings. What is the rise of that lower portion. I will be installing a heating unit inside that chanel (without cutting the van). The more thorough of your dimension video the better! Thank you so much for considering this video. I also have a complete walk around video of the empty van. I watch this video numerous times. I was even thinking of taking a empty new promaster for a road test. I had planned on taking it to an empty parking lot and video the exterior and interior. Thank you again! @@TheVanTeacher

Looks like I’ll be taking a Promaster for a test drive/photoshoot!

Yeah!!!!!!!😁@@TheVanTeacher

Thanks. You guessed it, bike inner tube! I also used pieces of tubing wrapped around wires in places they could rub against sharp metal.

Thank you! As best I can tell, the new Orion XS will get along just fine with the Promaster standard alternator. It will put a little more stain on it, but still well below the alternator’s output capacity of 180 amps. I’ve seen guys use two Orion 30amp chargers together with no problem. If you already have the Orion 30amp with 6awg wiring and a 60amp fuse, the XS is a direct replacement with no wiring/fuse upgrade. The only reason you would need larger wire would be if you are running extremely long distances, like 100 feet or so. I like the new XS charger for its efficiency and advanced monitoring features, but the 30 amp model is really fast and more than plenty for small to mid sized battery banks. Check out Explorist.life as Nate has done a few videos on the XS.

@@TheVanTeacher thank you so much!

Appreciate all of your feedback, thank you! The Promaster is one of the few vans wide enough to sleep from side to side if you happen to be a bit under 6' tall, otherwise, you're right, the layout has to change or a bump out installed.

Customizing is the name of the game, for sure.

Okay, a smart TV would be nice, but we just picked up a few classics from Blockbuster up in Bend, OR. How else would we watch them? Good point, get out and enjoy nature.

We love the gas cooktop! Instant heat, propane is extremely cheap, no battery drain. The only complaint is the stove rattles like crazy. Finally came across a solution posted on Amazon...magnets that fit perfectly in the grate. Completely eliminated the rattle.

Composite what? Extruded profile?

It sure does take a lot of specialty tools, and you’re right, that’s a big expense. I tried to borrow some tools that I knew I would only need briefly, but I did end up spending hundreds on tools.

It is tinned copper to give it extra corrosion protection in marine applications. I feel like it’s overkill inside a van, but that’s just my opinion. I did notice at the local RV show this weekend the major manufacturers are using residential Romex wire for AC circuit wiring. Thoughts on that?

@@TheVanTeacher I prefer to use welding wire!

@@TheVanTeacher I just get a 100' extension cord from HFT . . . currently $80 for 100 ft. When I bought mine it was real copper (no tin).

@@TheVanTeacherRV manufacturers cut every possible corner. You are using excellent wire, stick with it!

Thank you! Yes, I have two panels that total 350 watts. I wanted to leave a little room on top for a roof deck, but 3 or 4 panels would have fit if I needed that much power. The 2 solar panels can recharge my 2 batteries (200AH) in about 5-7 hours since I only use about 25% of their capacity each day. I also have alternator charging so the batteries are usually back to 100% either early in the morning after driving a few hours or by late afternoon if parked all day. If you get a chance, check out my video I just released on Solar Charging.

Thank you, I appreciate your support. It's so fun to be able to bring our bikes along wherever we go. One of the first measurements I marked on the van floor was the length of our bikes. That determined how much room we would have left for the rest of the living space. The slide out bike rack really helps keep everything tidy. Good luck with your van build!

I think so...but does it really need a solar disconnect? Anyone have a clear reason why or why not?

I certainly agree. Class T fuses are perfect at the battery and should be used if possible. I had a hard time finding them at the time. ANL fuses are the next best option and were available. Do you think it would be worth switching them out if I can source some Class T fuses now? I'll have to look to see if I can find them. Thank you for your advice!

Thanks @daveduncan2748 for sharing that information. I’m certainly happy with Lithium, and now even more.

Battleborn is way overpriced. Redodo, LiTime, Dr Prepare etc is just as good for far less money.

Agree, they are expensive. I liked that they are a solid U.S. brand and get good customer service reviews. Of course, like most other components in the build, decisions often come down to cost and balancing quality. Anyone else have an opinion on these higher priced components? What about Victron? Also quite expensive.

@@lakorai2 None of the cheaper and better options were available back when I spent $4000 on 400Ah of Battle Born batteries 4 1/2 years ago. On my next project, whenever that is, I certainly won't be paying the Battle Born premium. In fact, I'd probably build my own from 300Ah cells and a BMS or two. Probably even make my batteries and inverter (and maybe a 24V DC air conditioner) into a 24V configuration and use a converter to step down to 12V for the rest of the house systems that need it. In the same space where I could only fit 4 Battle Born GC2 batteries for 5120Wh of energy storage, I could fit about 15,000Wh of 300Ah cells (16 of them)--and I could buy the components for under $2000.

Now that's taking DIY to the next level! With that kind of know how, you would really be getting the most for your money.

We mostly use our van for travel and long road trips. It's nice to have our "own place" wherever we go. One change that we're planning to make is to convert the dinette seating to a loveseat and move the Lagun table mount to the side. We're also contemplating a few options for hot water, but can't decide between a permanent electric heater or a portable propane unit that connects to the fresh water quick connect that we can hook up whenever we want hot water. Any thoughts on that one?

The AC outlets didn't make the list but the devices that can be plugged into them did. I have the TV, Refrigerator and Victron battery charger plugged into them. The TV and Refrigerator automatically switch over to AC when I connect to shore power. I have a couple of other AC outlets that are run by an inverter. We use those for things like a computer monitor, laptop charging and low wattage appliances. In my previous van I also had two vent fans and loved the air flow you can get with one running air in and the other out. Adding a second fan may be a worthwhile future upgrade.

Thank you fellow teachers! I’m glad you found it helpful