I finally got my Channel Master 4221 put back up, as my Gray-Hoverman blew down (actually not bad for nine years). As you know, the 4221 is similar to your model. This one is old, going back to the 300-ohm days. It actually is signal-stronger than the Gray-Hoverman, although not for frequencies below RF7. I'll get the G-H rebuilt and fortified over the Winter, using the mast you suggest rather than one-inch maple dowel. Thanks as before, for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Most are classic designs updated for the changing protocol. I set out to build a weatherproof, sun proof, corrosion proof antenna and this is how they turned out.
WOULD increasing the length of the center bows used in the FF6 antenna 12.5 inches to a longer length that would be able to receive channel 6 ABC Philadelphia ?? Thanks CA. v
When you refer to your bow lengths, it's very confusing to have you refer to the leg length versus the overall length (which seems to be the truly important length relative to frequency harmonics???) Also, when you do your "enhanced" bend around the screw for the mounting of the bow (and the phase line), are you accounting for the extra length in the bows/phase lines when considering frequency harmonics??? Yes, I realize it isn't much, but it's some, and everything adds up.
I generally keep the length of each leg of a bowtie as well as the phase line aligned with the center of the mounting screw. The electromagnetism collected will join in on the flow already taking place along the phase line at that point, the signal is carried on the surface of the elements and travels in as straight a line as possible. What is most important is that the insulators and the bow mounting screws be exactly positioned allowing for slight variation in the bow length or the phase line positioning. Since the elements capture electromagnetic waves with information imprinted on them there is no sound and harmonic resonance is not in play until the signals reach your tuner. There is a fair amount of leeway when building antennas. I encourage people to stay as tight to the dimensions as they can, not everyone can be as exact yet still build a well functioning antenna. Hope this helps.
RG, Comparison is something I rarely do with antennas. I will tell you that all the antennas I build are within a few points of signal strength on the television signal meter. I'm not one who uses the modeling software the guys over on the Canadian Home Group are so fond of, or the fancy software Hodges uses. All the calculation is done with the math equations developed years ago, basically it's pure physics. I did compare hoverman to bowtie a while back and the differences were so small I scraped the video. As long as I have consistent good results from a model over the long term and it fits the design and mathematical formula I laid out, it's a win win for that model and I haven't missed yet. Now if I compare to other builders models that would be a different story. Thanks for the input. Michael.
That would be the tine spread, and I should have mentioned that measurement in the video, thanks for pointing that out. Everything you need to build this antennas here cosmic.simdif.com/THE_NEW_BOWTIES_FF4.html
I finally got my Channel Master 4221 put back up, as my Gray-Hoverman blew down (actually not bad for nine years). As you know, the 4221 is similar to your model. This one is old, going back to the 300-ohm days. It actually is signal-stronger than the Gray-Hoverman, although not for frequencies below RF7. I'll get the G-H rebuilt and fortified over the Winter, using the mast you suggest rather than one-inch maple dowel. Thanks as before, for sharing your knowledge.
You are ant antenna master Sir. Peace
Very nice construction. These are really good antenna designs. I’ve built several.
Thanks
Most are classic designs updated for the changing protocol.
I set out to build a weatherproof, sun proof, corrosion proof antenna and this is how they turned out.
WOULD increasing the length of the center bows used in the FF6 antenna 12.5 inches to a longer length that would be able to receive channel 6 ABC Philadelphia ?? Thanks CA. v
How much difference is there between FF4 and the FF6 antennas that you made Cosmic Antenna ??? Hope to hear from you Sir. Good day too.
Been using copper welding rod as its 48" and stiff-straight about size of coat hangers. Seems to work well.
That is good stuff, I think it's the same gauge as #10 wire.
If you can get it and it works then go for it.
When you refer to your bow lengths, it's very confusing to have you refer to the leg length versus the overall length (which seems to be the truly important length relative to frequency harmonics???)
Also, when you do your "enhanced" bend around the screw for the mounting of the bow (and the phase line), are you accounting for the extra length in the bows/phase lines when considering frequency harmonics???
Yes, I realize it isn't much, but it's some, and everything adds up.
I generally keep the length of each leg of a bowtie as well as the phase line aligned with the center of the mounting screw. The electromagnetism collected will join in on the flow already taking place along the phase line at that point, the signal is carried on the surface of the elements and travels in as straight a line as possible. What is most important is that the insulators and the bow mounting screws be exactly positioned allowing for slight variation in the bow length or the phase line positioning.
Since the elements capture electromagnetic waves with information imprinted on them there is no sound and harmonic resonance is not in play until the signals reach your tuner.
There is a fair amount of leeway when building antennas. I encourage people to stay as tight to the dimensions as they can, not everyone can be as exact yet still build a well functioning antenna.
Hope this helps.
Nice job. How about doing a comparison from one of your other antennas to this one. Hook them to a TV and show the DB strength???
RG, Comparison is something I rarely do with antennas. I will tell you that all the antennas I build are within a few points of signal strength on the television signal meter.
I'm not one who uses the modeling software the guys over on the Canadian Home Group are so fond of, or the fancy software Hodges uses. All the calculation is done with the math equations developed years ago, basically it's pure physics.
I did compare hoverman to bowtie a while back and the differences were so small I scraped the video.
As long as I have consistent good results from a model over the long term and it fits the design and mathematical formula I laid out, it's a win win for that model and I haven't missed yet.
Now if I compare to other builders models that would be a different story.
Thanks for the input.
Michael.
@@cosmicantenna9244 Ok, I understand. It was just a thought.
@@RG_sssSMOKING it was a good thought.
Do you make sure the two wires do not touch ever?
The long phase wires should not touch when crossed over each other. You need about an inch space between the two wires.
@@cosmicantenna9244 Thank you very much.
Be sure to check out the website
cosmic.simdif.com
Much more detailed info.
@@cosmicantenna9244 how wide do you gap the 9 1/2 & the 12 1/2 v shapes
That would be the tine spread, and I should have mentioned that measurement in the video, thanks for pointing that out.
Everything you need to build this antennas here
cosmic.simdif.com/THE_NEW_BOWTIES_FF4.html